Lisbon looks like a faraway fantasy destination that’s only seen in postcards: hilly cobblestone streets and rows of houses covered in patterned decorative azulejo tiles.

I knew that Lisbon was brimming with art and architecture, and it wasn’t until I actually set foot in this illustrious city that showed just how prevalent it is. This city lives and breathes creative passion; it’s the lifeblood that gives the city its unique identity. You may hear Fado music crooning out of open windows, the wistful melodies longing for a past that cannot be recovered.

Everywhere you go in Lisbon, you’ll find intricate glazed ceramic tiles called “azulejos” covering buildings or facades. Sometimes you’ll even find them inside dining rooms, bathrooms, or kitchen walls in restaurants and homes. I never knew that I had such a fascination with tiles until I set foot in Lisbon!

Azulejos in Lisbon

Azulejo stems from the Arab word azzelij or al zuleycha, meaning “small polished stone.” The azulejo is an important part of Portuguese identity art. Made of geometric designs and plain colors, they have been used since the 13th century. In the 16th century, the use of these azulejos as ornamental facing spread throughout Portugal. Islamic culture inspired the intricate knot-like geometric patterns, filling in as much space as possible.

From the 16th century, animal and plant motifs, along with Gothic references, gradually replaced the geometric patterns. But the Moorish techniques still endured.

Many of the tiles that are seen around the 19th century are hand-painted. Notice the nuances of the brushstrokes when you look closer.

There’s even an entire museum dedicated to the azulejos! The Museu Nacional do Azulejo is a must-see for anyone who is charmed by the craft. It only costs €5, and it’s totally worth it. You can visit the whole museum in an hour.

Also, never ever buy old tiles from a flea market. Those have been stolen from buildings and homes, as seen in gaps in the walls. Don’t buy goods that have been taken from someone else!

Street Art in Lisbon

Street art is ubiquitous in Lisbon. Everywhere you go, you’ll find hidden treasures in narrow alleyways, on the corners of buildings, and other unexpected places—until you realize to expect the unexpected. On a larger scale, you’ll find beautiful murals on the sides of buildings that broadcast their messages out to the world about existence, longing, shared experiences, and everything in between.

So, I did what any sensible creative person would do: I went on a three-hour street art tour with Lisbon Street Art Tours (not sponsored–it was a fun thing to do).

Street art vs. graffiti

From the time street art and graffiti have existed, there have been endless debates on how to define both of them. There seems to be a difference between street art and graffiti, since they come from two different environments.

At the loosest definition:

• Street art is commissioned and legal, so there’s a designated place to create it. It’s usually image-based and not words.
• Graffiti is based on scribbles and words, and they’re not commissioned or legal.

With graffiti, it’s about the game: marking territory or gaining notoriety. In those scribbles, there’s a lot of symbols in tags. The quick tags are called “throw ups,” because they’re easily dished out on a surface. The more developed ones are called pieces.

Underground culture groups wanted to be more visible so they went to moving walls like freight trains–which is why you see a lot of tags on trains. Graffiti can be about messaging in political environments, too.

In a sense, both street art and graffiti stem from the freedom of expression and content, where artists can express whatever they want, wherever they can. This often gives room to express difficult messages.

Favorite street art in Lisbon

There’s less street art in city center, so we started in Moderia: a multicultural neighborhood outside the central neighborhood. Many street artists live here, especially Brazilian artists. You can find smaller works that have a lot to say and stickers from notable street artists.

Bórdalo II

Bórdalo is a street artist who creates 3D work made out of trash, such as car parts. Using this medium, he gives trash a new life, rather than letting it go to landfills. He thinks that one man’s trash is another’s treasure. Most of his works are commissioned and legal. If you have work that big that stands the test of time, it has been legally commissioned.

Oze Arv

Oze Arv paints large-scale murals that are rich in color–without the use of any digital aids, such as projectors, or studio assistants. He does everything on his own.

We can see his style really come together. Throughout his work, you’ll see a combination of stripes and realism. This large mural is about spring. He did it alone without any help from anyone.

Zizi’s work

Our lovely tour guide, Zizi, also had her own work up! In her mural, she portrays how feminism is in many different parts of the world. Lisbon has a specific type of feminism. Women run away from first marriages, and they fight alongside the men. It doesn’t mean being in favor of war, but having the will to fight by their male counterparts. The woman in this mural is a sculptor and actor from France named Sarah Bernhardt.

Mario Belem

“Saudade” cannot be translated exactly, but it means a deep longing or nostalgia about something that you can’t have back. There’s the waiting for something better to come by, the hopefulness for a change with whatever it might be. At the bottom, the mural translates to, “it’s better to be lost in here somewhere than to be going nowhere.” It invites dialogue about missing what’s near us. We need to look at the beauty of what’s in front of us and stay present.

Shepard Fairey

Shepard Fairey is one of the most iconic and prolific street artists of all time, delivering political messages in a way that’s accessible for everyone. He’s best known for his revolutionary propaganda style while combining elements from contemporary art: bold, contrasting colors and well-defined lines for a dramatic effect.

This mural is about the Carnation Revolution that happened on April 25, 1974–a revolution to overthrow António de Oliveira Salazar’s authoritarian regime that presided over Portugal for almost 50 years. That night, a song to signal the coup aired on the radio. Then, thousands of Portuguese took to the streets with the military. Almost no shots were fired that night, and nobody died. A restaurant worker by the name of Celeste Caeiro put carnations into the muzzles of soldiers’ rifles. Hence, this carnation shown here.

Utopia

Utopia mostly paints sultry, colorful women with the universe in their seductive eyes. He’s my personal favorite, mainly because I’m a sucker for pretty women and outer space themes.

This Vhils/Shepard Fairy collaboration illustrates the multicultural neighborhood. Vhils used a dremel to etch out the surface and give it texture. There are some older buildings where he couldn’t do that, because it’s too fragile. So, he used a more superficial technique to create a similar visual effect.

This is a mural showing a friendship between a Kurdish and a Tigrayan girl. There’s a regional war currently going on between these two cultures that nobody is talking about, and this is what this mural is about.

After the street art tour, we spray painted patterns onto tote bags. The last time I used spray paint was to paint a David Bowie mural in 2020. It felt nice to make something, even if it went by quickly.

LxFactory: creative lifestyle in Lisbon

I headed over to LxFactory, a repurposed industrial complex that houses numerous artsy shops, cafes, and restaurants. This is a creative island showcasing more street art, fashion, culinary feasts, literature, and many more mediums in a way that belongs to everyone.

You could meander through the friendly shops, the unpretentious attitude welcoming anyone who is interested. My favorite shop was a bookstore with shelves extending two floors! The bookstore is called Ler Devagar and it contains a cafe, a music shop, an art gallery, a library, an auditorium, and more. There are frequent events in this bookstore, such as book readings, art shows, and performances.

Vegan food in Lisbon

In Lisbon, finding vegan food was very easy. Usually I ate a light breakfast at my hostel for free. For lunch, the Happy Cow app showed some real crowd-pleasers, and these are my favorites.

Orteá Vegan Collective

Orteá Vegan Collective’s menu looked so attractive, that it took a while to decide what to get! I got their Tribo bowl, which had warm tempeh, mushrooms, purple onions, carrots, broccoli, and ginger black rice. After walking around and seeing street art all day, something as nutritious as this bowl hits the spot just right. It had just the right amount of protein, carbs, fats, and veggies to replenish my energy.

For dessert, I asked for this chocolate coffee cheesecake. It is sweetened with coconut sugar, so it was light and didn’t make me crash at all.

Their chic interior was just as beautiful as their food: full of greenery and natural light.

Jardim das Cerejas

Jardim das Cerehas offers an all-you-can-eat buffet for only €9.50! The food is Indian cuisine with a Portuguese twist, such as pasta, fresh veggies, vegan meatballs, and cold side dishes. The soup tasted like coconut curry butternut squash. All of it was so filling that I didn’t even need to eat dinner that day. I even declined dessert!

Legumi Sushi Vegan

It’s rare to find sushi beyond cucumber and avocado rolls, so it’s not a dish that I have very often–until I found Legumi Sushi Vegan, that is. Marinated tofu, pickled vegetables, mayonnaise, and pineapples are some of the fillings that you’ll taste in this epic and gorgeous vegan sushi. The pleasant tart of the vinegar contrasted nicely with the creaminess of the mayonnaise. Where has this been all my life?

Finding Lisbon again

Lisbon showed far more than what I had expected to see. It’s truly an underrated city, one that I don’t hear about as often. From the azulejos to the vegan food, this city is one that I would like to return to someday.

Throughout this Eurotrip 2022, I’ve been museum-hopping and visiting as many spots as I could. After all, Barcelona and Paris spoiled me with all of the art, sight seeing, and vegan food that I could possibly get my hands on! When you’ve been on the go like this for weeks, it can be sensory overload. By the time I got to Madrid, I decided to scale back a bit.

In Barcelona, the main language is Catalan, and the locals speak Spanish and English. Here in Madrid, the locals speak mostly Spanish. Not everyone knows English, which gives me the perfect opportunity to practice Spanish.

I’ve been relearning Spanish recently. I’ve even changed my phone’s language to Spanish. I’ve been able to request vegan meals at hotels, read travel restrictions, and follow instructions in Spanish—even if it takes longer. It’s still hard to listen or speak, since the staccato vocalization of the language makes me miss things. Nonetheless, the locals seem pleasantly surprised when I’m trying.

Where I Stayed in Madrid

Usually I’ve been staying in hostels because it’s cheaper. For this Eurotrip 2022, I’ve been in several capsule cabins. This one in Madrid is by far my favorite.

Oxygen Hostel (not sponsored—I just really liked this place a lot) have futuristic cabins that look just like a space pod! You unlock the cabin with a key card. Inside, there are USB ports, a shelf to put small things, and two knobs to change the color of the lights. The bed was firm and comfy.

It felt like there was a place carved out in the universe just for me for a few days, a space pod offering somewhere warm and safe. Can I just stay here forever?

The Neighborhood Lavapiés in Madrid

I only used the metro three times, because everything else was within half an hour’s walk. There was a distinct multicultural neighborhood close by called Lavapiés, a melting pot of cultures and traditions such as Italian, pan-African, Indian, Thai, and more. The narrow, maze-like cobblestone streets are lined with many shops and eateries. Lavapiés also borders the city center, and is near many museums.

The Art Museums

Madrid is rife with art and history. Since I was slowing down, I picked just two museums to go: the Reina Sofia and the Prado.

Reina Sofía

If you want to see more modern and contemporary artwork, the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía has you covered. This museum has four floors of art, with mostly Spanish work from the Modern Era to the present day.

Most importantly, the Reina Sofía features artwork from the modernist masters, Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali.

I even saw Picasso’s “Guernica,” the renowned black-and-white Cubist painting, on display. Personally, I’ve never been a fan of Picasso’s work. I understand why his work is so famous–he did invent the modern art movement, Cubism, after all. Breaking traditional practices like this laid the foundation of the Modern Art era, so art wasn’t the same after that. But looking at his pieces is jarring. There. I said it.

But if it made me feel something visceral, then it must be effective at driving its point home. Isn’t that what art is supposed to do?

Salvador Dalí was another Modernist master painter, a pioneer of Surrealism–which is characterized by dreamlike imagery and symbolism. Unlike Picasso, I’ve always appreciated Dalí as an artist. In fact, his work has influenced some of my own when I painted more back in the day. Dalí painted metaphors that were often up to interpretation, but many times his paintings sent important messages across.

Much of the contemporary work had political messages, whether it’s about the fight for racial equality in the United States, or people taking to the streets in Perú and Chile to protest against social inequality. Many other exhibits had works about Indigenous rights in Latin America, especially about the tribes fighting against capitalist exploitation in the Amazon rain forest in Brazil.

Museo Nacional del Prado

The Museo Nacional del Prado is considered one of the finest art museums in the world, showcasing extensive works from the 12th to 20th century. The artists include Francisco Goya, Diego Velazquez, Bosch, and many more.

In my art history classes, we talked about Velazquez’ and Goya’s works a lot. Velazquez was especially known for his keen details, bold brushwork, and intriguing compositions in his paintings, such as the famous “Las Meniñas” painting.

If you appreciate European art, the Prado should be on your list.

Spanish Cats Are Just as Adorable

In Madrid, I went to one cat cafe to get my cat fix.

La Gatoteca isn’t quite so much a cat cafe as it is an adoption center. A free drink is included with the admission, though. This place has so many friendly cats, that it’s so tempting to try and pet all of them.

One of the kitties crawled right into my lap and stayed there for nearly the entire hour. Her happy little purrs were soothing as she nuzzled my hand. Sometimes she would look at me with a knowing gaze, like I’m her chosen one. I almost wanted to take her home! My partner and our cat probably would object, though. 😉

When the Hard Stuff Happens Back Home

Speaking of cats, later that evening, my BFF Brad called to talk about his kitty, Mouse.

I met Mouse almost nine years ago. She and Brad have been through so much together in life. She was a no-nonsense cat with a soft side that she reserves for her chosen people. I was fortunate to be one. And so, she became a part of my family.

Brad invited me to see Mouse and Bug (his other cat) before my trip, but I was quarantining. I told him that I could see them when I return.

After I had left, Mouse’s condition had suddenly deteriorated, and there was nothing left that anyone could do this time. She wasn’t going to hold out long enough for my return. Now I’m never going to pet or snuggle her again.

It’s hard being half a world away when receiving devastating news like this. The best I could do is be with Brad via video chat while Mouse passed over the Rainbow Bridge.

Mouse lived a long life of 18 years. While she preferred to stay out of the spotlight, she was one of the best cats I’ve ever known.

The Vegan Food in Madrid

I took the rest of Madrid easy after Mouse’s passing. I still wanted to try various places to eat, if only just to give myself a little boost.

Everywhere in Madrid, there are bars and restaurants lining the streets. Madrid has plenty of vegan options; many restaurants will offer a thing or two. When you take a closer look, the vegan restaurants invite you to partake in a colorful meal.

Like Barcelona, many places in Madrid:

• Close in the mid-afternoon as part of the traditional siesta, or afternoon nap.
• Some restaurants require a reservation, while many do not. The places near the city center are most likely full, and there may not be an empty table waiting for you—as was my experience.

These are my favorites.

Freedom Cakes

Freedom Cakes is known for their colorful meals, such as rainbow vegan hamburgers. They have a nice selection of cakes and cupcakes—as is their namesake. There wasn’t a table available when I went in, but I did leave with this perfect unicorn cupcake.

Sanissimo

Sanissimo is a trendy, tropical-themed vegan bistro with positive energy, which matches the quality of its nutrient-dense food. They have several salads, sandwiches, and wraps to choose from. All of it looked so good! Fortunately, their menu has pictures of some of the dishes so you have an idea of what looks good.

I got the Hottie Salad, and it made me feel just as good as its namesake. This salad had seasoned chickpeas, lentils, sliced baked potatoes, and fresh tomatoes all on a bed of greens. It was so packed with protein and nutrients that I stayed full throughout the night.

Mad Mad Vegan

Mad Mad Vegan makes typical vegan bar food, like these loaded nachos. Vegan cheese, black beans, plant-based carne, pickled red onions, pico de gallo, and a dollop of guacamole smother a bed of yellow corn chips. I’ve had many vegan nachos, and the Spanish do not mess around.

These nachos are definitely meant for sharing; I could only finish half of it and had to take the rest in a box.

PLANTAMIENTOS

Set in an indoor market, PLANTAMIENTOS offers small hearty meals. The dish I had was a kind of thick cold stew of sweet potatoes and Swiss chard, plus a side of warm bread. If you choose to eat there, there’s counter space to enjoy your meal.

El Rastro de Madrid Outdoor Market

If you love outdoor markets, then look no further than El Rastro, one of the largest Sunday markets in Europe. Located near the city center, you can stroll down the rows of friendly vendors and find all sorts of gifts for friends, or for yourself: colorful ceramic souvenirs, hand-carved wooden cats, punk accessories, vintage goods, cheap clothes, and more. It can get very crowded, but the vibes are good and welcoming.

Last Thoughts About Madrid

Madrid isn’t quite like Barcelona, but respite is what I needed.

I’m glad that I took it easy, especially with the news about Mouse. My time in Madrid was more leisurely and relaxed, instead of being on the go, go, go. I’m also glad that I could use Spanish more this time. The space capsule always made me feel welcome, offering a comfortable place to rest at the end of the day.

After Madrid, I’m taking the eight-hour bus ride to Lisbon, Portugal. I have heard many great things about Lisbon, so I will definitely report back my findings!

Barcelona, España (Spain) has been on my Eurotrip bucket list for quite sometime. Brimming with history and little secrets, I have been very excited to see what art, architecture, and vegan food awaits in this vibrant Catalan city… And it truly lives up to its charm.

When I was in high school, I took three years of Spanish. By the time I was done, I could read at a sixth-grade level… And then I didn’t use the language again for 20 years. Now I have been practicing Spanish every day for the past two months.

The thing is that in Barcelona, the main language is Catalan. Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia, a semi-autonomous region that has its own distinctive language, flag, parliament, and traditions. It enjoyed autonomy before the Spanish Civil War. But today, the Catalonian nationalists believe their tax money gets invested more in other parts of Spain than what they get in return. Today, there’s still a push for independence–even though the majority of residents didn’t vote for it 2014.

Signs in Barcelona display three languages: Catalan as the main one, then Spanish, and then English. The locals seem to be fluent in all three. I don’t know any Catalan, so I did my best with the Spanish that I knew. Still, the locals seemed pleased that I was trying. I was surprised by the number of people who speak English, but I preferred not to use it this time. 🙂

Where I stayed and how I got around in Barcelona

I stayed at the hip hostel, Generator, which was set in the neighborhood, Grácia. It’s close enough to see the important stuff while being at the edge of the little side streets. In the side streets, the shops and eateries offered more reasonable prices and far less crowds than, say, La Rambla (the main touristy street).

Barcelona, like most major European cities, has a very efficient transportation system. A 4-day metro pass costs €31. I think it pays for itself quickly.

When I wasn’t taking the metro, I was walking through the streets of Grácia, discovering beautiful street art around corners and in random places.

The renowned architect, Antoni Gaudí

I’ve heard of Antoni Gaudí’s architectural work, and it seemed like a world away.

Park Güell

Gaudí worked in numerous styles, ranging from Catalan Modernisme to Neo-Gothic. Park Güell (pronounced “Gwell”), an Art Nouveau and Modernisme attraction, was inspired by nature, as the organic shapes and structures show. The curves and slopes integrate with the mountain, as the Mediterranean vegetation blends seamlessly with the whole park. It feels so alive here, almost like it’s living and breathing. Colorful mosaics and glass tiles give the park an extra whimsical touch, further making it a beautiful wonderland.

Casa Batlló

Casa Batlló boasts motifs inspired by bones and teeth on the exterior, and even iridescent dragon scales for the roof. Inside, the curving lines and structures are reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea, the stained glass windows borrowing from the likes of turtle shells, sea mollusks and the flowing nature of water. Gaudí brilliantly uses light and color to blend with the organic structure of the house.

Not only is this building aesthetically pleasing, it’s also quite functional! There’s a sophisticated ventilation system that is disguised as gills of a fish, as to promote airflow and keep the building cool during the hot summer days. In the sun-filled atrium, the further you go up, the tiles slowly change to a darker blue and the windows gradually get smaller. This is so that every floor has equal lighting.

La Sagrada Familia

La Sagrada Família is by far Gaudí’s most famous work. While it’s unfinished, you cannot deny that it’s quite impressive. When I left the subway station, I turned around…and there it was.

The Neo-Gothic basilica has so much detail on the exterior that you could spend hours surveying the intricacies and still discover something new the next time you look at it. Gaudí planned everything that you see down to the last detail–whether it’s the story of Jesus Christ, Biblical scenes, or the symbolism behind some of the animals that you see.

To say that the interior of La Sagrada Família was a real treat is an understatement. Inside, no straight lines exist as the ornate columns twist and turn towards the vortex of the ceiling. Rainbows drench the interior of the basilica through the colorful stained glass windows, illuminating the entire space with light and color. It almost felt like even the interior was singing, like I could see sound!

It costs about €30 to get in, and it’s worth it. This is Gaudí’s most talked about masterpiece, and for good reason.

Moco Museum in Barcelona

The Moco Museum (Modern and Contemporary Art) showcases many contemporary artists such as Andy Warhol, Yayoi Kusama, Banksy, Guillermo Lorca, and more.

The exhibit was called, “In Art We Trust.” Inspired by the past and based in the present, the artists here create art that evokes the kind of future that we can all live and breathe in. Through thought-provoking work, these artist envision a world that’s better for everyone.

Here are some of my favorite works.

Yayoi Kusuma’s “Night of Stars”

“My life is a dot lost among thousands of other dots.”

Yayoi Kusama

Andy Warhol’s “1 Colored Marilyn”

It’s Andy Warhol’s iconic Marilyn Monroe screen prints, except the colors are in reverse.

Banksy’s “Forgive Us Our Trespassing”

Banksy, the infamous anonymous street artist, has always made his mark in the world. Here, “Forgive Us Our Trespassing” depicts a young boy praying by a colorful, graffitied church. Here, this boy has his belief system and sacred place. There’s a sweetness about his practice, since he thinks that praying will make life work out for him. And that’s one reason why many people pray: to have solace and peace. And if you don’t fit in, make your own.

Guillermo Lorca “The Little Gardeners”

Guillermo Lorea’s large surreal works have so much going on. Blending magic and surrealism, the fairy-tale settings look violent at first glance. I had to stop and see what the narrative might be. A lot of it was up to the viewer’s interpretation, since there was a delicate balance between nature and humankind, and darkness and hope.

In “The Little Gardeners,” carnage unfolds as fierce animals compete amid large blooming pink poppies. The two little girls seem totally unfazed by the violence going around them, as if this is all a part of life and survival. But they are clearly not casual bystanders to the action. The girl with the blue butterfly wings seems to be undergoing a transformation, perhaps growing out of innocence.

Digital Immersive Art in Moco Barcelona

There’s also a digital immersive art exhibit that was my favorite part. This room here is by Studio Irma. The colors of the lights change to the beats of the tranquil music, offering a warm and safe place in the universe.

Intermission: God Is An Astronaut in Barcelona

When I embarked on this journey, most of it was planned out. Sometimes it’s better to not have everything set in stone, in case you need some leeway. In this case, I saw a concert for the first time internationally.

God Is An Astronaut is an Irish post-rock band that I’ve been listening to since 2013. I’ve always wanted to see them, yet they didn’t come to Seattle the last time they toured in the U.S. My new travel friend Desline that I met in a Paris hostel mentioned they were on tour. I checked the tour dates, and sure enough, they were going to be in Barcelona the same time as my visit! I immediately bought tickets four days before the show.

It can be hard to describe GIAA’s music. Their older stuff is ethereal and existential like you’re moving through life in the cosmic greatness of the universe. The music is pensive and evocative, taking you through past and future lives. I listened to them so much in my mid-to-late 20s, as I navigated through the complex trauma in my life.

Their newer music is heavier and more raw, and to me, it sounds quite different. GIAA played songs from throughout their 20-year career. I happened to be in the front and center of the stage, watching those guys pour their souls into the show.

By the time, they played one of my favorite songs, “Dust and Echoes,” it felt like I was connected with every soul in the audience. Never mind that I don’t know Catalan, or that I’m not quite yet fluent in Spanish. The music is what we were all there for; this shared sense of humanity is what ties us all together.

Vegan Food in Barcelona

Barcelona offers a plethora of vegan food within walking distance. It’s extremely easy to eat vegan here, whether you’re looking for tapas or the Spanish national dish, paella. As I mentioned earlier, having a base in Grácia meant that many vegan options were just a stone’s throw away.

Tapas are like an appetizer or a small dish. You can order two or three to have as a full meal. In many restaurants in Barcelona, it’s easy to order grilled vegetables for tapas. I have also discovered tangy tomato-based romesco sauce to dip these veggies.

You may notice that many establishments close for a couple hours in the afternoon, as part of the Spanish tradition of the siesta, or afternoon nap. They do tend to stay open later into the night though. It’s the Spanish way.

Vegetalia

I needed to try paella somewhere, especially since it’s a new dish. Vegetalia in the Gothic Quarter delivered the savory vegan dish with faux chicken strips and chunks of veggies in yellow seasoned rice. I had the smaller portion and had a small salad with it.

La Besneta

La Besneta is a pastelería (a shop that sells pastries) that offers many vegan pastries that were so rich and tasty that you wouldn’t believe they’re vegan. Pictured here are little tarts with fresh berries and edible flowers.

Xurreria Trebol

Xurreria Trebol offers several vegan churros. I tried the chocolate-cream-filled one, and it sent my dopamine receptors firing to the moon and back! I don’t remember the last time I’ve had a churro. I’ve always been under the impression that they’re not vegan, and I found out that they traditionally are!

Vegan Junk Food Bar

Vegan Junk Food Bar is a Dutch-based vegan restaurant that has a location in Barcelona. I asked for the Daddy Burger, and it has vegan chicken strips, cheeze, pickles, lettuce, tomato, and a special blue Daddy Sauce that tasted like mayo–all inside a pink sesame seed bun. The flavor is just as vibrant as the colors–which is proof that being vegan is definitely not boring!

Vegan Junk Food Bar truly is a vegan heaven with its décor, food, and stylish ambience. I really wish they would expand to the United States; more specifically, Seattle.

Nabucco Obrador Vegetarià

Nabucco Obrador Vegetarià is a warm vegan cafe just blocks away from the hostel in Grácia. I wanted one last thing to remember this friendly neighborhood by, so I asked for one of their vegan cashew cheesecakes with fresh berries on top. It kept me satiated through the train ride to Madrid.

More important things in Barcelona: Cats

Of course, I needed to have a cat fix. Espai de Gats in Grácia has several cats for you to hang out with while you sip coffee or nibble on a pastry. This cat cafe promotes feline welfare by having the cats sterilized and vaccinated, so they’re healthy when they get adopted into their new home. Many of these cats were found abandoned or malnourished, and have been nursed back health. This cat cafe also hosts workshops about feline care and welfare, so the public can be educated on building a more compassionate world for these wonderful animals.

Leaving Barcelona

I took one last look around Barcelona. I even swam in the warm waters of the beautiful beach, my first time swimming in the Mediterranean Sea.

Barcelona is a city that offers its gems with pride, and yet there are more where you’re willing to look. From art and architecture, to colorful vegan food and cats, this is a very friendly city that I must return to one day.

Bonjour! I have returned to Paris, France as part of Eurotrip 2022.

The last time I was in that city was in December 2018, and even then, it was a whirlwind tour through France. To be honest, my first impression of Paris wasn’t very good. During that time, Paris was cold, dark and gray. Maybe people weren’t in the best mood because it was winter. Then again, I only spent two nights there, so I missed a lot of what makes the city special. I made it a point to revisit, because some things are worth giving another go.

This time, I visited when it’s warm, vibrant, and green. Paris has truly come to life in the summer, which goes to show that sometimes things need a second chance. Maybe revisiting a place needs to come from a different perspective, or a different season. Coming back here was the right choice, because now I can see what Paris truly has to offer.

Art in Paris: The Museums

Since I’m still in the second week of Eurotrip 2022, I have found that it’s important to pace myself when going to museums. Paris has many landmarks, museums, and history to uncover, and it’s tempting to try to do as much as possible. After all, it is exciting to delve into the extensive political and artistic history of this legendary city. But one thing I’ve noticed is that I’m experiencing the first stages of museum burn-out. So, this time I just selected two art museums to go to. There will be more art museums to visit later this trip.

The Louvre

The Louvre is the most visited art museum in the world, and it houses the most famous works of art such as the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. It’s inside the Louvre Palace, a 13th-century fortress, and you can see the remnants of the fortress in the lowest floor of the museum. It has expanded since, and today it offers the huge art collection that we see today.

The Louvre exhibits cover a wide time period, spanning from the beginning of ancient civilizations (Roman, Greek, Egyptian) to up to the 19th century. The museum is so massive, that you can easily spend the entire day in there–or even two days if you really want to stop and take your time. As with most museums, I highly recommend buying your tickets in advance to avoid waiting in line. Instead, you can go through security and the entrance fairly quickly.

Of course, I wasn’t going to check out of this life without seeing Leonardo di Vinci’s “Mona Lisa”–arguably the world’s most famous painting, which, by the way, is smaller than I expected.

And then there’s the Venus de Milo sculpture, another iconic masterpiece from my art history days.

Then there’s the ornate Apollo Room, which was the model of the Palace of Versailles Hall of Mirrors. Personally, it beats taking the trip all the way out to Versailles.

I ended up spending five hours at the Louvre! That’s the only thing I did for the entire day. To be honest, while I loved it, limiting the number of museums I visited this time was good for me because it can be sensory overload after a while. When I saw less museums, I could take my time in them more and really appreciate what humanity is capable of creating.

The Centre Pompidou

The Centre Pompidou has such a unique architecture, and I have never seen anything quite like it. Colorful pipes stories high wrap vertically around the glass museum, while on the other side, an escalator in a clear tube zig-zags up the avant-garde building. This innovative facade is a real testament to the modern art it houses, ranging from Surrealism to Dada art genres.

This exhibition at the Centre Pompidou featured multiple works by the renowned fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent, who created dresses inspired by the artworks of the modern artists.

There were several installations, which I loved. This one was my absolute favorite.

There’s even an entire library dedicated to the acclaimed abstract artist, Vassily Kandinsky, that’s open by appointment only for those with proper research credentials.

Vegan Food Tour in Paris with Thory and Tom

As an introvert, I have no problem with enjoying my own company and imaginative world. Being a solo traveler, I can do many things on my own terms and be in full control of these plans. Doing all of this on my own has been truly an empowering experience, because I have learned to tap into the inner resources and take initiative. But after a while, I have been feeling a little bit of loneliness and decision fatigue.

My best friend Karim introduced me to his French friend, Thory. And then Thory introduced me to her friend, Tom. I am not familiar with French food, especially since most of it isn’t vegan. But Thory and Tom knew all the best spots in town. Thory graciously planned out an entire vegan food tour for us to try.

Urban Greener

We met at Urban Greener by the neighborhood of Montemartre. It’s a snug bistro that offered brunch that Saturday morning. Thory and I got the Tofu Benedict, while Tom enjoyed his pancakes. My Tofu Benedict was on a slightly sweet pancake, so the contrast between sweet and savory was a flavorful balance.

Getting around Paris with friends and food

After brunch, we walked up hilly Montmartre to the grand Sacre Coeur Basilica. When we made it back down to the other side of the hill, Thory suggested we rent scooters and zip through Paris.

Riding on a scooter is definitely better than walking! It opened up a greater sense of freedom, as Thory navigated us through the leafy streets of Paris. Sharing the road with cars and bikes, while dodging lamp posts, traffic barriers, and parked cars, was part of the exhilarating fun, as wind whipped through my long purple hair. Never mind that I am 35 years old. Riding a scooter in Paris made me feel young and free again…maybe even a little dangerous.

There was another vegan cafe called Copper Branch. I got a peanut butter brownie. Unfortunately, I was so excited to eat it that I forgot to take a photo!

At a stoplight, I turned my head to the left and saw this iconic 13th-century cathedral.

“Is that…the Notre Dame?” I asked.

“Ouiiiii!” Thory said.

The Notre Dame is yet another landmark building, an excellent example of Gothic architecture–which is characterized by flying buttresses, pointed arches, ornate details, and stained glass. It caught on fire several years ago, and it’s still closed to the public. And we just happened to pass by it!

Land & Monkeys

Tom eventually had to leave for work, so it was just Thory and me. We went to Land & Monkeys, which is a vegan French bakery that sells all sorts of pastries and desserts. I was blown away by how many choices they were! I had to get the cinnamon roll, pain au chocolat, and a type of long brioche with chocolate chips.

Aujourd‘hui Demain

Our last stop was at Aujourd’hui Demain, a vegan clothing shop, bistro, and grocery store all under one roof. This might be the first time I’ve seen a multi-purpose vegan establishment like this!

I had the unforgettable Selfish Burger, which is a vegan fish filet sandwich with micro greens, pesto, and tangy tartar sauce inside fluffy brioche bread. It was pretty hard to decide what to get, because everything looked so vibrant, nourishing, and flavorful.

Au Revoir, Paris

I’m so glad that I had returned to Paris! A city as elegant as this one deserved a second chance, that’s for sure. Sometimes all it takes is a different approach and a mind open enough to look past the first impressions. Paris is indeed brighter this time of year, and more welcoming and ready to have you.

Venice (or Venezia, as the locals call it) is a legendary city where the 14th century came and literally never left. It has been described as the most beautiful city in the world, with its treasure trove of art, architecture, and political and military history.

Where I Stayed and How I Got Around in Venice

I stayed for four full days and three nights, which felt like enough to visit Venice. One thing to consider is that many of the museums and attractions I was interested in are closed on Mondays.

For the museums, I purchased the Venezia Unica All-City pass for about €50, which grants access to 13 museums throughout Venice, and many more attractions. It pays for itself quite quickly and gives the best bang for your buck. However, it doesn’t work for all museums in Venice, such as the Gallerie dell’Academia art museum or the Biennale exhibit; you have to buy those separately. It’s also a separate pass from the vaporetto, or water bus.

Venice is a pedestrian-only town that’s a cluster of little islands separated by canals and connected with bridges. I mostly walked around, although having a 72-hour vaporetto pass was useful. Venice is a labyrinth of walkways, so my phone with Google Maps and GPS came in very handy—especially when I inevitably got lost.

I scored this lovely room by Saint Mark’s Piazza. This traditional room features bright orange brocade wallpaper and exposed-beam ceilings, retaining its old-world charm. Usually I prefer hostels to stay within budget, but…this is Venice. This was the perfect yet affordable place to stay.

Venice is very crowded during the day! There are often pedestrian traffic jams in the narrow alleys. As an introvert, crowds can feel overwhelming at times. So I would wake up every day before sunrise to enjoy a little quiet time before the morning rush. Piazza San Marco is tranquil as the sun comes up, as the street workers sweep the city walkways.

My Favorite Places in Venice

Here are some of my favorite places in Venice.

Libreria Acqua Alta

Libreria Acqua Alta is a cozy vintage bookstore, and a must for any book or cat lover. Upon entering, you can smell the musty old pages; the bookshop has sustained years of flooding. This gem is full of personality and features the iconic stairs that are made of older, damaged books. You can find many second-hand or out-of-print books here. Five cats also live in the establishment, which adds to the shop’s charm.

La Tecia Vegana

Venice isn’t really known for vegan food, and it’s been slim pickings. But there’s one vegan restaurant on the northwestern part of the city called La Tecia Vegana.

La Tecia Vegana offers a multi-course Italian meal: starters, first course, main course, sides, and dessert. The portions are just a little smaller so that you can pick and choose your courses for the full meal. Or you can just have one and call it good.

I picked the seitan and mushroom black and white ravioli as the first course, and roasted seitan with whole wheat and dried fruit as the main course. I paused between bites to notice the various flavors: oregano, onion, garlic, the slight nuttiness of olive oil, and the sweet dried fruit contrasting the savory gravy of the seitan roast.

Museums in Venice

Since Venice is full of history and wonder, the museums throughout the city showcase great works throughout time.

Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale)

Doge’s Palace is the opulent 14th-century Gothic palace that was the heart of political life and the seat of power of Venice. It’s where the duke—the supreme leader of the city back then—would reside. You can tour through the various chambers that display large-scale paintings on ceilings and walls, plus the creepy prison underground.

Gallerie dell’Academia

The Gallerie dell’Academia is an art gallery that displays art before the 19th century. It’s housed in a former art academy that taught figure, portrait, landscape, and sculpture. Today, it’s focused on preserving and exhibiting artwork.

Oddly enough, it’s where Leonardo di Vinci’s famous work, Vitruvian Man, lives. But it’s rarely displayed to the public, since the work, which is on paper, is fragile and sensitive to light.

Ca’Rezzonico

The ornate Ca’Rezzonico museum shows fine art and furniture of 18th-century rococo Venice, such as oil portraits of aristocratic society to colorful Murano-made glass chandeliers. I thought all of it was so beautiful. You get a glimpse of what aristocratic Venetian life was like during that time.

Burano

As the vaporetto pulls up to the docking station in Burano, the bright, multi-colored houses emerge from the horizon, greeting you. Burano is a small fishing island that is best known for its colorful homes and lacework. Like Venice, it’s made of tiny islands with bridges and canals. There’s even an entire lace museum dedicated to the craft. But lace-making dwindled because it’s so expensive and time-consuming. As an aside, the other island, Murano, is best known for its glass-blowing.

I took the hour-long Vaporetto ride to Burano. This island, with its 2,400 residents, is small enough to walk the circumference in an hour. I wonder what it’s like growing up on an island that small?

I spent a couple hours walking around Burano and admiring the multi-colored houses. The patches of grassy areas looking out towards the lagoon, the leaning clock tower, and little shops offering small lace artwork moved me. Then I visited the lace museum. For food, there weren’t many vegan options available, but I did find a shop called Dai Fradei that offers vegan gelato.

Biennale Art Exhibit in Venice

La Biennale is an enormous international art and cultural exhibition hosted in Venice every year. This year’s theme was “The Milk of Dreams,” an interplay between imagination and the human condition asking intriguing questions of how we as a world can coexist and depend on one another—especially when navigating the pandemic, social and political tensions, and the threat of climate change.

The exhibit is set in the buildings within the Arsenale and Biennale Gardens, a 10-minute walk apart—making this is an all-day affair. The whole show was incredible. Here are some of my favorite works.

Leaving Venice

Somewhere I read that Venice is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The real setting is more elegant than what the photos can ever show. Every little detail and corner offers beauty, intrigue, and a story. On my last day, I took one more look around, searing the details into my memory.

This is a unique city that I will never forget.

Ciao! Rome is my first stop in Italy of this 2022 Eurotrip. Here’s a fun fact about me: I am one-quarter Italian, and I’ve always wanted to visit the last country of my heritage. The love for food, art, and living la dolce vita (the sweet life) runs deep in my family—it’s in my blood. As a food-motivated creative person, I have picked the right place.

Rome is one of the birthplaces of Western civilization. It’s the epicenter of great food, art, architecture, engineering, wine (if you drink alcohol), and romance. My background is in fine art, and many art history classes have drilled iconic buildings such as the Colosseum and Pantheon into our psyches. It has been a surreal experience to see all of these art history lessons come to life!

Main Attractions in Rome

These are several attractions that I’ve visited. I highly recommend:

• Purchasing tickets online in advance to avoid waiting in line for hours
• Bringing a water bottle to fill up. It gets warmer this time of year, and there are fountains throughout the city
• Wearing comfortable clothes and shoes, because you’ll be walking a lot
• Visiting some attractions early if you want to avoid crowds

Colosseum

The iconic Colosseum is the largest and oldest amphitheater in the world. It was mainly used as a battleground for gladiator matches, where the opponents fight to the death. Being inside one of the greatest buildings felt like I was in a history book.

After my visit to the Colosseum, I visited the expansive ancient ruins of Palatine Hill, the legendary site where the city was founded. You’ll find the remnants of temples, Roman imperial palaces, and baths. It really felt like going back 3,000 years.

Vatican City

Vatican City is technically its own country with its own passport, post office, and even football team that’s separate from Italy. But you don’t need a passport to go in. The country is a religious site and is ruled by the Pope of the Catholic Church.

You should set aside a full day to visit the Vatican. The Vatican Museums alone cover about eight miles. That’s a lot of ground to cover! It’s possible to see the important stuff in a day, but you might need two days if you really want to take everything in.

For me, the most important thing at the Vatican was seeing the grand frescos of the Sistine Chapel. Michelangelo, one of the greatest Renaissance artists, painted the Biblical story. One of the most famous pieces is the “Creation of Adam,” a fresco that we’ve seen time and time again in those art history classes. Now I got to see it with my own eyes!

Fresco is an unforgiving material to work with. It involves painting with pigmented plaster, and the artist must work quickly before it dries and becomes part of the wall. So, seeing an entire vaulted chapel’s ceiling painted with Biblical imagery astounded me, leaving me in wonder of how humanity is capable of creating such masterpieces that stand the test of time.

Afterwards, I went inside St. Peter’s Basilica. St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest church in the world and is one of the greatest works of Renaissance architecture by Michelangelo. It’s considered one of the holiest Catholic places. It also holds the tomb of St. Peter, who is the head of Jesus’s 12 disciples and the first Pope. Even though I’m a non-believer, I was in awe of the interior. It took 150 years and an incalculable cost to build a church so magnificent.

Trevi Fountain

The baroque 18th-century Trevi Fountain is one of the famous fountains in the world. The dramatic stone sculptures interplay with the flowing water. The Roman aqueducts carry water to the fountain to this day. The Trevi Fountain is very well maintained. Because it’s so popular, I recommend going early to beat the rush. Don’t forget to toss a coin into the fountain, and remember: if it’s not baroque, then don’t fix it. 😉

Pantheon

The Pantheon is nearby. You can visit the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps in one go, since they’re close to each other. I was randomly walking through the cobblestone streets, turned a corner, and there it was!

The Pantheon was originally a Roman temple, before it was converted to a Catholic Church in the year 609 A.D. The columned portico has deeply influenced Western architecture, as seen in universities, banks, public libraries, and government buildings. I am in love with this magnificent building.

The inside is under an unreinforced concrete dome with the open oculus at the center: an open hole that lets in natural light. The interior is designed so that it could fit a perfect sphere—which is engineering at its finest. It blows me away that all of this was constructed without modern technology.

Spanish Steps

The 135 Spanish Steps starts at the Piazza di Spagna at the base and goes up to the Trinità dei Monti church at the top. In the Spring, they are covered with potted azaleas.

Just like the Trevi Fountain, if you want to have it almost to yourself, visit around 7:30 a.m.

Things to do in Rome

As always, great vegan food, art, and cats always call to me. Here are some noteworthy places.

Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary

Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary is an outdoor cat sanctuary among the ancient Roman Torre Argentina ruins—where Julius Caesar is thought to be assassinated.

All of the cats in this sanctuary have been abandoned. While many of these cats are missing eyes, ears, and limbs, they are well-fed and taken care of. All of the cats have been sterilized and vaccinated, and most of them can be adopted. The cats roam freely among the ruins, living their best lives. They chase birds, nap peacefully inside flower pots, and purr happily from pets and attention.

It’s free to visit, although consider making a donation so that Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary can continue to do good work to help these cats.

Romeow Cat Bistrot

I had the most exquisite meal at Romeow Cat Bistro, a vegan restaurant where you can dine with cats. Several cats live in this establishment, and they roam around while guests eat. This is a place where you really slow down and immerse yourself in the present.

Inside, the artwork by Sara Paglia graces the trendy interior. Cat beds are in corners, and some cats amble from one part of the dining room to the next.

A proper Italian meal is much more relaxed and lengthy than an American meal. Lunch is often considered the most important meal of the day, and it usually lasts for an hour or two. Italians often have a very light breakfast, so they come hungry for lunch time–and for good reason. Because this multi-course meal will fill you up.

The starter was a savory ball that reminded me of a cornbread ball, or a hushpuppy. The yellow cream reminded me of a vegan Hollandaise sauce.

The first course was spaghetti in a macadamia nut cream sauce with wild pepper. I rolled several noodles around my fork and ate slowly, the noting the texture and flavor of the spaghetti. It had a hint of garlic, an important ingredient in Italian cuisine. The wild pear compote had a hint of bergamot orange powder. To me, the pear compote tamed the garlic aftertaste, balancing out the savory flavors of the pasta.

The main course was an Italian-Japanese fusion: a bed of marinara jackfruit wrapped in a nori strip, with seaweed on top, surrounded by four breaded sweet potato slices and pesto sauce. The delicate savory flavor of this course married into the stringy texture of the hearty jackfruit in the tomato marinara.

During the main course, this white cat jumped onto my table! I felt honored, since mine was the only one where a cat blessed me with their presence like that. The server gently shooed him off, but I would have let him stay.

Dessert, the final course, was a matcha parfait with a raspberry sauce, an almond sablé (cookie), and a pistachio tuile (wafer), and garnished with fresh raspberries. I loved the brilliant green parfait contrasting with the red raspberries. The soft parfait was the consistency of gelato, but less cold and more dense. The creaminess offered a contrast to the crunchy tuile and sablé.

I loved everything: the food, the cats, the interior, all of it! Life is too short to not slow down every once in a while and soak up what you enjoy the most.

You must make a reservation for lunch and dinner to eat at Romeow Cat Bistrot. They are closed during certain hours of the day as well, so make sure to review the hours before contacting them.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Dorothy Circus Gallery is a beacon of pop surrealism art in Rome, a visionary and magical experience in an inviting room with red velvet walls, the color symbolizing life and birth. Pop surrealism is a genre of contemporary art. The otherworldly details provoke curiosity and a shared sense of wonder through dreamlike imagery. Artists include Camille Rose Garcia, Camilla D’Errico, and Hikari Shimoda.

Dorothy Circus Gallery also has another location in London, which I have visited.

Ciao, Rome!

Rome has been such a charming city, offering plenty of places to nerd out and immerse myself in history. This is a city that I would love to revisit in the future. The architecture, ruins, food, art, cats, and everything in between stem from passion from the artists, architects, chefs, and engineers who create them, whether in ancient times or modern day.

I’ve been loving Italy so far. The way Italians speak, with their rhythmic vocalizations, sounds like poetry–even if they are talking about mundane things. The more relaxed attitude towards having meals is winning me over. Also, Rome loves their cats. My next stop is in Venice, and I’m so excited to explore the area. It looks different from Rome, and I’ll report my findings. Ciao!