Cusco, Peru

Cusco, Peru was the historic capital of the great Inca Empire 600 years ago. Known as “Ombligo del Mundo” (navel of the world), it’s the gateway to the iconic Machu Picchu archeological site and the Sacred Valley. It rests at over a 11,000-foot (3,339 meter) elevation in the Andes Mountains. It was even higher than Quito!

Years ago, I was working as a content writer for Google Maps. More specifically, I wrote hotel descriptions for lodging all over the world, even in faraway places like Cusco. I longingly pored over the maps, reading about the sacred Incan sites throughout Cusco and beyond. I studied the layout of the tourist town, Aguas Calientes, the last stop before ascending to Machu Picchu. Finally, I was exactly where I wanted to be.

A little bit on Inca cosmology

Cusco, Peru was the most spiritual place I’ve been to in a long time. Everywhere I went, Incan references to Inti, Pachamama, and the underworld were woven in plain sight, or hidden throughout the city like Easter eggs. For the Incas, the universe was divided in three worlds:

  • Hanan Pacha (Upper World): The upper world contains the celestial and spiritual realm. It’s represented by the condor.
  • Kay Pacha (Middle World): The terminal world is filled with living humans, animals, plants, and physical nature. It’s the earthly realm, represented by the puma.
  • Uku Pacha (Underworld): The underworld symbolizes transformation and hidden life. It’s represented by the serpent.

There isn’t a hierarchy between these three worlds. Rather, they work together in equilibrium, transferring creation and energy in cycles.

In Cusco, Pachamama is known as Mother Earth from the terminal world, offering the sustaining force of life and fertility. As the physical presence, she embodies the mountains, oceans, and land. She generates life to sustain all of us, while working closely with Inti (the sun god in the Upper World) and the underworld. While she gives life and resources, it doesn’t mean we can keep taking from her. Humans also have a reciprocal responsibility of taking care of her and giving back as well. Some Andeans claim that climate change is affecting us all, because we’re disrespecting Pachamama and taking too much from her. Now she’s angry and is punishing the world. They’re not wrong.

¡Rezamos a la Pachamama! (We pray to Pachamama!)

Sacsayhuamán

It is said that Cuzco has the shape of a puma when viewed from above. As I mentioned above, the puma represents the earthly realm of people, life, and everyday action.

The Inca citadel, Sacsayhuamán, forms the head of the puma-shaped city. This defensive stone fortress overlooks the city and provided protection, as well as serving as a religious center for Inca ceremonies. The stone work is a mastery of engineering: the stones were cut and placed so precisely, that not even a blade can pass between them.


For folks who opt out of seeing Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán still shows the incredible stonework of the Incan empire. If you’re visiting Cuzco, definitely visit this important part of the city!

Qorikancha, the sun temple

If Sacsayhuáman is the head of the puma-shaped city, then Qorikancha (Kor-i-can-cha) would be the heart. Once covered in gold, this prominent 15th-century Inca temple was dedicated to the sun god, Inti, in the upper world. It served as a spiritual, astronomical, and political center in Cusco, Peru. There were six temples inside to worship the deities of the celestial bodies, which would provide guidance for agriculture:

  • Sun: Inti, the central diety, symbolized the divine power of the sun.
  • Moon: Represents femininity and controls the lunar cycles in agriculture.
  • Stars: Represents the connection to the cosmos. This temple measured the Summer and Winter solstices as a calendar to plant crops.
  • Rainbow: Represents the bridge to Pachamama, or earth and agricultural fertility.
  • Lightning: Offered power and protection, as well as rain and storm cycles. Water is sacred, and without it, there’s no life.
  • Thunder: Symbolized weather patterns, which are important for crop growth.

When the Spaniard settlers came in the 16th century, they forcibly stripped all of the gold from the temple and destroyed everything except for the original stone foundation. In its place, they built the Santo Domingo covenant, a Catholic place of worship. While they tried to erase the Inca religion, the covenant has suffered earthquakes—revealing the long-standing Incan architecture as its original purpose.

Underground tunnels in Cusco

There’s a web of underground tunnels in Cusco, which used to serve as communication pathways throughout the city. For instance, there’s a main tunnel between Qorikancha and Sacsayhuáman. The tunnels could also have been used to transport sacred objects and resources. If Sacsayhuáman is the head of the puma, and Qorikancha is the heart, then maybe the tunnels could be considered the underbelly. Either way, the underworld symbolism is quite clear.

Rainbows galore

Rainbows are ubiquitous in Cusco.

The rainbow flag is the official city flag for Cusco, symbolizing the rich cultural diversity of the region. Incas worship rainbows, the bridge between the earth and the sky. The seven colors in the rainbow flag also symbolize the seven chakras of the body. The Inca also believed that the rainbow impregnated Pachamama. Cusco’s flag can be confused with the Pride flag, although the difference is that the Pride flag has six colors.

The coca leaf

Since Cusco sits at over 11,000 feet, coca leaves were readily available to chew on to relieve altitude sickness. As I mentioned in my Quito blog post, this important plant is considered a sacred medicine, not a drug. It’s similar to caffeine. Coca leaves have 14 alkaloids, some minerals, and antioxidants. They taste similar to yerba mate tea and can be bitter. Some folks chew it with a black substance called llipta, which is made with cacao or ashes with quinoa and mint flavor. The combo creates a chemical effect to get the full effects of the coca leaf. It tastes pretty good!

Coca leaves are also an important part of ceremonies and rituals. When making offerings to the deities, especially to Pachamama, three of the best coca leaves are presented at the alter to pay respects.

Machu Picchu

To get to Machu Picchu, I bought a train ticket in the Inca Rail office. I paid about $160 for a round trip ticket to Aguas Calientes. It was a very last-minute decision, so I had to hurry. First, I had to take a shuttle from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, which cost 10 soles. From there, I got off and ran as fast as I could to the train station. I arrived a few minutes late from the departure time, and fortunately, the train was still there!

Aguas Calientes is a compact tourist town in the Andes, a place to stay for the night before going to Machu Picchu. The Peruvian government doesn’t sell all of their tickets online; they often reserve some tickets at their Ministerio de Cultura office. Since it was the off season, there were more available. I walked over in person and paid $152 for the Route 2 ticket, which is the most popular.

Peru has two seasons: wet and dry. When I went, it was rainier this time of year. Usually the best time to go is April through October.

After spending the night in Aguas Calientes, I hiked up the trail up to Machu Picchu. It took about an hour and a half. Most people took the bus, because it can be a strenuous hike.

The Inca empire built this iconic terraced stone compound 600 years ago. They worshipped Inti (the sun god from the Upper World), the sacred mountains, and other elements woven into Incan cosmology. They did solstice rituals to pay homage to their deities, which in turn served as an agricultural calendar. The stone structures were also set so precisely, as the terraces allowed crops to grow at different elevations. They also tested drainage and soil fertility while protecting the mountain from erosion. It really was a feat of engineering.

Hiking up the mountain among the clouds and then seeing this incredible Incan city below struck me deeply. Whatever issues that I carried before felt insignificant, now that I was standing before this magnificent structure.

I stood at the top, noticing the white fluffy clouds gracing the space between the mountains. It was partly sunny, which I was grateful for, because December is the wet season. Inti graced us with his heavenly presence after all.

Vegan Food in Cusco

My trip in South America was probably the cleanest I’ve eaten in a while. The vegan food in Cusco was my favorite. It turns out that I love Andean food!

It’s super easy to be vegan in Cusco, as quinoa, potatoes, corn, beans, and fresh fruit are ubiquitous. I’ve always loved quinoa, and having this wholesome grain straight from the source just hits different. Somehow, the food tastes better there. It has a fuller body, the flavors have more depth, and it makes me feel better.

Mercado Central de San Pedro is where I frequented almost every day for snacks and food. You’ll find chocolate, coffee, corn, grains, fruit smoothies, restaurants, and gift shops selling artisan-made souvenirs. Some vendors sell chocolate in local flavors, such as the earthy and sweet chicha morada. My favorite place to eat there was Vegan Point, which serves wholesome Peruvian food, such as a brightly flavored salad with fried quinoa balls.

Speaking of which, chicha morada just might be my new favorite drink! It’s is a purple corn drink that’s sweetened with pineapple, and spiced with a pinch of cinnamon and cloves. It can have more or less sugar, depending on preference. The kind I had at a cafe was sweeter than the one from a street vendor selling it in a plastic bag. When I sipped the chicha morada from the plastic bag, it wasn’t sweetened with sugar at all. At least I could know what it actually tastes like.

I mentioned earlier that coca leaves are an integral part of Andean culture, both in rituals and everyday life. Because of this, there are coca leaf-flavored sweets in Cusco. I tried coca leaf candies and a coconut-based ice cream. It blew my mind—I’ve never had a flavor like it! It tastes like a smooth tea-flavored treat, like green matcha or a touch of earl grey. The vegan ice cream was so delicious, I almost wanted another one.

Connecting with the people of Cusco

Another favorite part of visiting Cusco was connecting with the people of Cusco. In my Colombia blog post, I mentioned the Colombians love using their colorful slang. They also speak rather quickly. In Cusco, the people speak Spanish slower and more clearly, which makes it much easier to understand for me. Many also speak Quechua.

When I was eating lunch at Vegan Point, I noticed a white kitten in a makeshift blue shirt. Since I can’t resist a cute kitten, I asked the little girl and her mother if it’s okay to take pics. They said yes, and then it unfolded into a beautiful conversation about why we’re vegan. We agreed that we couldn’t in good conscience eat an animal that doesn’t want to die, and that it one of the worst things for the environment. The little girl saved the kitten from getting swept from the heavy rains a couple months ago. She seemed to be about 5 years old, and already she expressed compassion and curiosity. This kid is going places when she’s older. We took selfies together, a wholesome moment between us.

Final thoughts about Cusco

Cusco was one of my favorite places that I’ve ever visited in the world. What I’ve seen of Peru has been delightful, spiritual, and deep. The concept of Pachamama piqued my interest the most. The reciprocal relationship that we tend to with her especially translates into our existential realm on this earth.

This part of the world is colorful, friendly, and genuine. Many places have been great experiences, but this one was quite special. While there’s more to Peru, I felt right at home in Cusco. I hope that one day I can return to explore more.

Quito, Ecuador

Nestled in a valley in the Andes mountains, Quito, Ecuador is one of the highest capital cities in the world, sitting at a 9,350-foot elevation (2,850 meters). This capital city sits on the equator, the middle of the earth. The original name of the city is Quitu, which is Quechua for “center of the earth.” The Spanish couldn’t pronounce it so they called it Quito, and the name stuck.

When I first came to Ecuador and got cash, I was surprised to find a familiar currency: U.S. dollars!

To start, it’s worth noting that Ecuador has been in deep economic insecurity since the 1990s. Back then, it was the perfect storm: oil prices fell, there was political instability, and banking regulations were weak. Ecuador’s national currency, the sucre, collapsed as inflation soared and people lost all of their savings. Since the sucre was beyond saving, Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar because it was the fastest way to restore stability. But in turn, it gave up its monetary independence, and it’s at the mercy of U.S. market sways. People are trying to survive, with unemployment rate being 37%.

Safety in Quito

While Quito has a lot to offer, the city can be a little rough around the edges in some parts. There are petty thefts and sometimes robberies. I wouldn’t go more than a few blocks without taking an Uber, because the rides are tracked and are considered much safer. For instance, I walked 2 km to La Mariscal Artisan Market from my hostel. As I walked through a park, there was a masked man hiding behind a tree, looking right at me! I immediately switched paths and walked faster. After perusing the market, I took an Uber back to my hostel.

Anyway, it’s best to keep your wits about you and use common sense as always. Don’t flash your valuables, avoid wandering around alone at night, and don’t take anything from strangers. Things I wouldn’t even do in the U.S.

Quito is breathtaking—literally!

Coca leaves.

Since Quito sits at over 9,000 feet, I definitely felt the elevation! After my first night, I woke up with a headache and my heart was pounding. It felt harder to breathe. Chewing on coca leaves helped alleviate the altitude sickness. They taste like yerba mate and green tea. Coca leaves are what cocaine comes from, but this plant isn’t a drug; it’s medicine. It doesn’t get you high. Instead, this mild stimulant works by dilating the blood vessels to let more oxygen pass through like caffeine does. You can make a tea, but I preferred to chew on them to get a fuller effect. The headaches cleared away like clouds parting to let the sun through.

Aya Huma

Crocheted Aya Huma mask

The Inca Empire spread its influence throughout the Andes mountains. In Ecuador, Aya Huma reins supreme. Literally meaning “head of spirit,” it’s the vital guiding life force present in rituals, resistance, and warfare. When the Spaniards came, they denounced these celebrations as Satanic, calling them “diablo uma” (head of the devil). Today, crocheted rainbow masks appear everywhere in Quito. The mask has two faces to represent the dualities of life: light and dark, sun and moon, masculine and feminine, hot and cold, good and bad, etc. The masks are rainbow-colored, because mixing light and water makes rainbows. Rainbows symbolize circle of life, which is why Andean clothes are colorful.

The summer solstice is when people celebrate Inti Raimy (festival of the sun), where Aya Huma lays a homage to the sun god (Inti Raymi) for the maize harvest. People may have ritual baths in waterfalls, rivers and springs at midnight, aiming to drive out negativity and welcome in new energy for the coming year.

Exploring Quito

I highly recommend taking a walking tour to get to know Quito and its gems. Some of them are free, although a tip is expected at the end. It’s truly worth it.

Basílica del Voto Nacional

The crown jewel of Quito, Basílica del Voto Nacional

Starting with the Quito’s crown jewel, Basílica del Voto Nacional is an ornate 19th-century neo-gothic Catholic cathedral. Inspired by the Notre Dame in Paris, you can’t miss this Catholic temple among the hills.

Upon closer inspection, instead of stone gargoyles, you’ll find the big contenders of the Amazon rainforest: jaguars, iguanas, tortoises, condors, monkeys, and more. The Basilica is a tribute to Ecuador’s biodiversity, bridging the gap between nature and faith.

The Basilica is perpetually unfinished for two reasons. First, if it’s finished, taxes must be paid to the government. That’s why you’ll see unfinished buildings around Quito: it’s a loophole to avoid paying taxes. Second, if the cathedral is finished, many believe that’s when Armageddon starts. The inhabitants would like to avoid that as well.

I didn’t go inside, but apparently you can go into the highest tower and feel the wind as you climb further up. Just don’t look down. 😉

Plaza Grande

People gather at Plaza Grande as the city’s meeting point.

Plaza Grande, literally meaning “big square,” is the city’s most popular meeting spot. It includes the colonial-style Presidential Palace, the metropolitan cathedral, and the City Hall. People gather at this spot to eat, gossip, share news, sell their wares, and just hang out. Ladies would sell fruit for a dollar. I stocked up on pitaya and mangos for the week.

La Mariscal Artisan Market

One thing I love to do is meandering through artisan markets and finding culturally-specific pieces you won’t find anywhere else. La Mariscal Artisan Market has rows and rows of vendors selling wares, like hand-painted crucifixes, intricate indigenous beaded jewelry, chocolate straight from the source, and colorful woven fabric. I often collect magnets, so I got a little Aya Huma magnet.

TelefériQo Cable Car

For some local hiking and sweeping city views, the TelefériQo Cable Car can carry you over the green hills and farms to even higher ground. The top sits 4,000 feet above Quito, which made the elevation over 13,000 feet! I was hiking among the clouds amid the surrounding beauty, overlooking the city below. Although the thinner air made me breathe harder, I wouldn’t say the hike was too difficult.

The sun was setting behind the clouds, emitting golden god-like rays to the city below. I kept walking on the dirt trail through the dense clouds, passing a small basic restaurant and a horse stall. The journey took about an hour and a half. Eventually, I passed a modern-looking church, which was near the end of my little hike at the top of the hills.

It was getting dark, so I went back to the cable car station to go back. Descending over the shadows towards the glittering city was the perfect way to end a day of exploring.

Vegan food in Quito

Like in Medellín, vegan options are plentiful in Quito. Most of my vegan meals consisted of fruits, veggies, and seeds. I did visit a couple of vegan places.

An arepa with pickled vegetables.
A slice of fruit pie.
Granola with slices of strawberries and bananas.
Vegan ceviche with plantain chips.

Vegano de Altura was not to be missed, especially since they offered a 7-course Saturday brunch for only $14. The plates included a small bowl of granola with fresh fruit, bean-based ceviche with plantain chips, an arepa with a pickled side, and a slice of apple pie to finish it off.

My favorite arepa.

Just a block away from my hostel, Coffee Romance offered the best arepa I ever had in South America. The owner of the restaurant is Venezuelan, which is where the arepa comes from. (Colombia claims this, too.) This corn-based treat was stuffed with seasoned black beans, fried plantains, and buttery sliced avocados. Not only was this arepa bursting with flavor, the protein, fat, and complex carbs were also grounding for my mind and body. The owner was easy to talk to, and he clearly took pride in the food he has to offer.

Cotopaxi Mountain

Me in front of Cotopaxi.

I took a group tour to Cotopaxi Mountain, the second highest active volcano in Ecuador. In the Quechua language, “coto” means “neck,” and “paxi” means “moon,” since the crater at the top looks like a crescent moon. The Andean people worshiped the sacred mountain, believing the gods would bless them with rain, which would provide fertility to the land.

Hiking among the clouds to basecamp, where the mountain touches the sky.

Remember when I mentioned that Quito’s elevation is over 9,000 feet, and that the cable car takes you past 13,000 feet? Cotopaxi is even higher. The group and I set out for a hike from the bottom of the volcano to the base camp. Then I ventured a little further to 16,000 feet (4,900 meters), where the snow starts. That’s 2,000 feet higher than Mt. Rainier in Washington State! As hikers, we couldn’t summit the mountain. That requires special training and climbing gear for the hardcore mountain climber.

Here I am, standing at 16,031 feet (4,999 meters). That’s as far as I could go.

Bringing the coca leaves was a must, because my head was absolutely swimming and my hands tingled as I gasped for air. I thought about going further to 5,000 meters. Another guide said it would take another half an hour to get to that altitude. I wanted to keep going. But my body wasn’t having it, declaring that 4,999 meters was enough. And honestly, that was the right call.

Then we went down to the utilitarian base camp to have a snack and a drink. It was bare-bones yet quaint, a convivial meeting place to swap travel stories before going back.

If you’re in Quito, definitely try to get to Cotopaxi! That might have been the highlight of my trip to Ecuador.

Mitad del Mundo

The equator is a big red line.

Since Ecuador sits at the equator, I decided to check out Mitad del Mundo. In case you wanted to know what the equator looks like, it’s a big red line running across. The line is marked as accurately as possible by GPS. The museum, Intiñan Equator Museum, is an interactive site offering immersive science experiments, pre-colonial and indigenous exhibits, and a demo on how chocolate is made from the cacao plant. One of the indigenous exhibits even features a real shrunken head! A shrunken head was considered a war trophy back then. It’s made from the head of a captured enemy and boiled to shrink it. Then a stone is placed inside before it’s sewn shut.

The immersive science experiment shows the Coriolis effect, such as watching water drain clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on where it stands on either side of the equator. You could even balance an egg on the equator itself. The Coriolis Effect influences everything that moves on the face of the earth. As the earth rotates, it pushes any fluid, mass, or particles towards the poles. The magnitude of this effect is proportional to the speed of the fluid, or the swirl that the Earth’s rotation creates. So, a fluid in motion will turn counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere, and clockwise in the southern hemisphere. A good example of this is seeing how a toilet flushes. At the equator, the Coriolis effect is cancelled and water falls straight down the drain. (As an aside, this is why hurricanes don’t go to the equator.)

Notice how the water drains clockwise, pulling the leaves with it.

At Intiñan Equator Museum, our guide filled a sink with water, put it on the north end of the red line, and drained it. We watched the leaves swirl in a counterclockwise direction as the water drained into a bucket below. On the south end of the red line, the water flowed clockwise.

Look, I did it!

While it was cool, I question the validity of the experiments. First of all, with enough patience, you can balance an egg anywhere in the world. Also, I would think that moving the water just a few meters from the red line wouldn’t make much of a difference, if this effect gradually gets stronger towards the poles of the earth. But I don’t know how the museum would stage this, since it was just a bare-bones sink with a bucket underneath. It’s still cool though. Maybe kids would like this more.

Final thoughts about Quito

Mural by TNaz at TelefériQo

While I liked Quito, Ecuador is better known for its nature and biodiversity, whether you want to check out the hiking trails at the top of the hills or visit Cotopaxi Mountain. If I were to go back, I’d check out a chocolate farm next time or even visit the Galapagos Islands. The entire country is beautiful beyond the city. Nonetheless, I still enjoyed my visit in Quito and now I know what I can do next time!

A large Jesus statue stands in front of Medellín.

Medellín, Colombia

A small bag of coffee is placed with a small Colombian flag and currency, plus a passport entry stamp.

Once known as the epicenter of the narcotic drug trade, Medellín, Colombia has slowly been healing from the 50-year armed conflict that ended in 2016. While the memories of the violence have certainly permeated the city, Medellín offers so much more amid its lush surroundings: good coffee, emotive street art, delicious vegan food, and more.

Safety and Getting Around in Medellín

An enormous statue of Jesus is draped with colors of the Colombian flag with the city in the background.

Once known as one of the most dangerous cities in the world, Medellín has turned itself around and has become much safer. Not only has it emerged from its violent past, it has gathered that pain and suffering, and turned it into something beautiful. That being said, it’s still important to stay aware and keep your wits with you.

An orange hibiscus is in full bloom.

There’s a saying in Colombia: dar papaya, which literally means “giving papaya.” It means when someone naïvely makes themselves an easy target, such as carelessly flashing their valuables (like their newest iPhone). Since petty thefts are still common, someone might snatch it out of their hands or even violently rob them for it. As long as you keep your belongings hidden, you put yourself less as risk.

I stayed in Rango Hostel in El Poblado, which is one of the safest parts of Medellín. Women were running solo in broad daylight with headphones, which is a good sign. While it’s a busy neighborhood, I felt at ease. The tranquil Laureles neighborhood is also another good option to stay in; that part of the city is more residential.

Ronnie rides on a motorcycle in Medellín traffic.
I could do this all day!

As a solo woman traveler, I used Uber since the app tracks the location of the rides. Opting for a motorcycle or scooter is much cheaper and tons of fun! I loved feeling the summer air whipping on my skin as the driver zipped through the chaotic traffic. I could do that all day!

Generally, as long as you’re staying away from narco and sex tourism, you’ll be much safer in Medellín. Just don’t engage in either.

Vegan Food in Medellín

From bustling fruit markets to healthy vegan restaurants, there’s no shortage of food for vegans in Medellín. El Poblado has the most vegan restaurants in the city, which is another reason why I stayed there. There are others throughout as well. It was a vegan food heaven!

Plaza Minorista José María Villa

Mangos, plums, and apples from La Minorista fruit market.
The freshest and juiciest fruits.

Because Colombia is in a tropical climate, there’s no shortage of the juiciest, most succulent fruits and veggies in the world. If you want to try exotic fruit and veggies that you may not find anywhere else in the world, Plaza Minorista José María Villa is the place to go. Fresh fruit is cheap and plentiful here. There was pitaya (fruit that looks like a magenta dragon egg), avocados the size of mangos, and mangos nearly the size of a football!

Corn arepa with smashed avocado and seeds.
Corn arepa with smashed avocado and seeds.

I bought enough avocados, mangos, plums, and pitaya to have as breakfast throughout my stay in Medellín. I also got some arepas de choclo, or corn cakes. The dense arepas were perfect to spread avocados on and sprinkle with pumpkin and sunflower seeds.

Coraje Vegan

A kale salad is topped with plant-based protein, tomatoes, pickled beets, crushed seeds, avocado, and dressing.
La ensalada proteíca from Coraje Vegan

El Poblado has the most vegan restaurants in Medellín, hence why I stayed there. I didn’t go out to eat that often, because the fruit markets truly satiated me. Still, the city has so many wonderful vegan restaurants to offer, serving healthy Colombian food bursting with mind-blowing flavor.

Coraje Vegan is an eco-chic vegan eatery that serves healthy vegan food. I had the Ensalada Proteíca, a protein-packed salad topped with grilled tofu, sauteed mushrooms, lentils, cherry tomatoes, picked vegetables, avocado, and mixed seeds. The protein kept me full for longer sustained energy. This flavorful dish truly fueled me so that I could explore the city longer.

Restaurante Las Veganas

Seitan with sliced avocado, pickled veggies, and potatoes.
The best vegan Colombian food.

In the tranquil, leafy neighborhood of Laureles, Restaurante Las Veganas is a laid-back restaurant serves traditional vegan Colombian food. The plate I had was filled with protein-packed seitan, potatoes, a small salad, picked veggies, and slices of avocado. It was the perfect lunch to reenergize me on a sunny day.

Las Veganas also has a small shop stocked with coconut oil, sauces, protein powders, dairy-free cheeses, kombucha, coffee, and more. So, you can take a small taste of Colombia with you.

What I Did Around Medellín

A mural shows different layers of a woman's side portrait.

Since I only stayed for a few days, I did as much as I possibly could to enjoy this city and what it has to offer. I spent much of my visit learning about the intense history of Medellín, the multi-layered 50-year armed conflict centered around narcotic trafficking, colonialism, fighting over resources, and more. As I mentioned before, Medellín has emerged to take back its collective identity. Here’s what I did to enjoy what Colombia has to offer.

Learning Colombian Slang

Cards show examples of Colombian slang as part of a drinking game.
Some Colombian slang.

My Spanish has gotten pretty decent over the years. I can hold a full conversation for hours! But I only know standard Spanish, and not much slang. Colombians heavily use their local jargon, and it’s an integral part of their Spanish. Sometimes I try to listen to what people are saying, and it’s hard to recognize any of the words. To be truly fluent in another language is to know their slang well.

It’s important to note some words may have different meanings, depending on the country. Others are considered safe to use in one country, but are offensive in others. Most importantly, each country has its own slang; some of it is even city-specific.

Rango Hostel (where I stayed) offers a word drinking game involving the local slang. (I just had seltzer water.) It informative, hilarious, and even kind of offensive at times. For instance, Colombians throw around the word marica like it’s nothing. In this case, it means “dude” in a friendly manner. However, in other Spanish-speaking countries, it means “faggot” and is considered extremely offensive!

Other words include:

  • Tinto: Black coffee without cream or sugar. (I saw this a lot at cafes.)
  • Llave: Literally means “key.” In this case, it means “best friend.”
  • Parcero: A close friend.
  • Buenas: A greeting, kind of like saying “good afternoon” or “good evening.”
  • Chao: Bye.
  • Que video: An interjection of shock when you hear bad news, as if it only happens in a movie.
  • Güevon: It means “dude” or “friend,” but is considered a playful insult. Only use with close friends.
  • Ese Pirobo: “This fucking guy!”

As you can see, Colombians love using colorful language, and are delighted to rib and provoke even their closest friends. Personally, I prefer using standard Spanish, unless I am 100% comfortable using Colombian slang in the right contexts. One day, I might accidentally offend someone, and they might not want me to come back. Then again, practice makes perfect!

Strolling through Pueblito Paisa

The courtyard of Pueblito Paisa has a garden and a white church.
Pueblito Paisa is an Antioquian replica.

Set on top of the lush Nutibara Hill, Pueblito Paisa is a charming replica of a traditional 20th-century Antioquian village. A prominent church graces the main plaza, with gardens and a large fountain as the centerpiece. It’s a great spot to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Amid the cobblestone walkways, this magical place has a town hall, a barber shop, snack shops, gift shops selling colorful handicrafts, and even a museum showcasing the musical influences of Colombia.

The restaurants and snack shops don’t offer much vegan food from what I could tell, but I was able to find a refreshing fruit smoothie without milk. You might spend a lot of time in this magical place, so definitely bring some snacks!

Ronnie stands on the cobblestone in front of the church at El Pueblito Paiso.

I spent about an hour in the Museo de la Ciudad at Pueblito Paisa. This museum showcases the history of Medellín. However, this exhibit focused on the musical history of the 20th century to the present: reggaeton, cumbia, rap, rock ‘n’ roll, and even punk. Most of the signs are in Spanish, but some are in English. I read twice as slow in Spanish, so I spent more time getting to know how music influenced Colombian society.

Making feline friends at La Gatoría

A white cat stands on a table in front of a pink neon sign that says, "Te mereces unos ronroneazos en el corazón."
“You deserve some purrs in your heart.”

Housed in a Spanish-style home, La Gatoría is a warm cat cafe in the leafy Laureles neighborhood. It offers some vegan plates to enjoy amid the adorable resident and adoptable cats.

Ronnie holds a 6-week old with a wide-eyed expression, while an adult cat looks on in the background.
Don’t mind me—just enjoying the kitty love here.

These kitties are lovely, funny, and a tad mischievous. The matriarch cat ensured that everyone knew that she’s the boss. A black-and-white cat climbed up the Christmas tree and overlooked the whole establishment on his evergreen perch. The staff even brought out 6-week old kittens! They were so cute and tiny, it was almost unbearable. I loved the little tortoiseshell kitten. She was bright and curious about the world, although the matriarch cat put her in her place.

A cat stands on top of a fake Christmas tree.
Why are they like this?

You need to make a reservation before arriving. You also need to pay a deposit with the reservation, kind of like an admission fee. The deposit is included in the final bill.

Final Thoughts About Medellín

A large sculpture that says "Medellin" stands in front of a garden and a colorful mural of a woman surrounded by nature.

I loved Medellín. It really has come a long way from its violent past and turned its pain into gold. The people were friendly, kind, and excited to share their culture. The food was incredible, and the sights were something to behold. I enjoyed immersing myself in slang word games and then seeing those words on the streets. The next time someone is worried about how Medellín might be dangerous, share this blog post and show them that it’s a colorful, vibrant place that deserves recognition.

A portrait of two women looking in the opposite directions, depicting Colombia's past to the present.

Violence and Healing in Medellín, Colombia

Once again, it was time to visit South America. To start, I was in Medellín, Colombia to utilize Spanish, explore the city, and learn its intense history. When people hear about Colombia, their first thoughts might be about the drugs. They may also think of fresh tropical fruit, cumbia music, and coffee farms on lush green hillsides. If you’re going to visit this city, the history and the recent violent 50-year armed conflict cannot be ignored.

Previously known as the epicenter of the narcotic drug trade, Medellín has been slowly emerging and healing from this recent violence. There are so many interconnecting parts: from the beginnings of colonization and the displacement of the indigenous inhabitants, to the farmers banding together to fight for their land (and their lives). These cumulating events have eventually led to what has happened in the recent decades. Many innocent civilians have also died in the crossfires.

Comuna 13

Rather than neighborhoods, Medellín is split up into communes called “comunas.” One day, I took a tour to learn about the violence that happened in Comuna 13.

Set against high and steep slopes, Comuna 13 is a neighborhood made of makeshift homes with corrugated metal roofs. Farmers fled violence from rural areas and founded this part of Medellín. Leading to the sea and the mountains, this comuna was like a portal for smuggling cocaine and weapons. Slowly, it slipped into a neighborhood that was rife with drug trafficking, paramilitary operations, and rival gangs.

For 10 years, the radical leftist group, FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia: an armed guerrilla paramilitary formed by farmers and peasants), took the power of this community. The rivaling paramilitaries were placed by the Colombian government in order to get rid of them. Eventually, they swapped powers.

A soccer court in Comune 13.
This soccer court is where public executions happened. Now kids play here.

This power swap was practically an invasion that displaced the residents, who also escaped the same radical leftist groups. During that time, there were no police stations or any city protection; it was completely out of control. In Comuna 13, there was an initiative to shoot anyone who may be suspected to be a part of the guerilla. It was like a witch hunt. The government at the time wanted results. So, innocent civilians would get kidnapped on the promise of jobs in the fields.

With help from the U.S. government, Colombia’s Operation Orion aimed to do away with the paramilitary groups. In this operation, over a thousand military troops, two helicopters, and a tank were deployed in an attempt to crush the guerilla groups. But it was a controversial mission, because many witnesses claimed that the governments disappeared innocent civilians. While it was a successful operation that drove away the paramilitaries, the community still remembers the controversy. Even the international courts condemned it.

Mural by @oscar_franco333

Eventually, there was a peace agreement to coexist: a ceasefire between guerillas and the paramilitary, as long as they stop killing people. FARC was officially disbanded in 2016. These days, there are sub groups of the FARC, but they don’t have enough people keep mobilizing it. So, they retreated into the background.

The Aftermath

: How a Community Heals

Colorful murals depict Colombia's struggles, from the past to the present.
Murals in Comuna 13.

The violence was deeply traumatic and is of course a heavy subject to this day. As the city heals, artists have gathered to tell their communities’ stories through creative endeavors, such as murals in Comuna 13. Many victims turn to art and music as a way to denounce the violence, challenge ideas, and speak to the viewer when words aren’t enough. Storytelling and expression help bring communities together, so they can rebuild better.

A cable car moves over trees with the city in the background.
A cable car system helps bridge some of the neighborhoods together, which were once isolated by the hilly landscape.

These days, Comuna 13 is a hopping tourist destination—a living, breathing community exploding with creativity in the form of powerful murals, expressive rap and cumbia verses, enticing Colombian cuisine, and more. Steep stairs zigzag into switchbacks as you go higher and higher, overlooking glittering Medellín at night.

Lit buildings in Medellín glow in the evening.

Museo Casa de la Memoria: Remembering the Victims

The 50-year armed conflict in Colombia ended in 2016, which isn’t that long ago in the country’s history. For most people, the memories and trauma of the violence are still fresh. Millions of innocent people have been displaced from their homes, and hundreds of thousands have been killed. We still don’t know the true toll of the multi-faceted armed conflict, whether it’s from narco trafficking, colonialism, fighting over resources, and more.

Quotes in Spanish, as told by children.
“Spirit: What is needed to survive the violence. Life: Love, peace, and sadness.” Children tell it like it is.



This museum, Museo Casa de la Memoria, is dedicated to the victims of the conflict. Here, they use their voice and share their stories, because being heard helps them heal from this trauma. Like Comuna 13, it’s a meeting place for victims to come and heal together. It’s a lot of reading in this museum, so take your time and get to know their stories and history.


Also, you’re going to visit Medellín, please do not go to the Pablo Escobar museum. That man has caused so much suffering to the point where many Colombians don’t even want to hear his name. We don’t need to glorify him. Out of respect, go to Museo Casa de la Memoria instead. The victims of his narco regime deserve to be acknowledged.

 The words on the bottom of the mural say, “Their name calls us together; their memory blooms on the walls.”

The Search Unit for Missing Persons

Starting in 2024, La Unidad de Búsqueda de Personas dadas por Desaparecidas (UBPD; The Search Unit for Missing Persons), a forensic laboratory near Comuna 13, recovers the bodies of the disappeared victims and identifies them. Identifying the missing loved ones brings back dignity to them and helps families know what happened, so that they can have closure. Since 2025, they’ve recovered 96 bodies. Of course, that’s a fraction of the tens of thousands more that are missing.

Final Thoughts

A building with a colorful Comuna 13 sign against the backdrop of the city.

My visit to Medellín was more focused on learning about the history. Sure, there was a lot of fresh fruit to satisfy my vegan cravings, and Colombia produces some of the best coffee in the world. (Stay tuned for what I also enjoyed!) But the reminders of the 50-year civil war were everywhere. Like I mentioned before, we’re still finding out the true toll of the violence. It may take many more decades. It was heavy and tragic, yet the stories of the survivors were inspiring and hopeful as they heal to build stronger communities together.

Bookshelves in Rose City Book Pub

5 Cozy Cafes in Portland

As fall advances into winter and the trees lose the last of their leaves, I always pack a book or laptop and enjoy a hot black coffee in a cozy cafe in Portland. It’s one of the best ways to leave my perch in the tiny house, when I need a different environment to stretch those creative muscles or just get a change of scenery. As the days grow darker, spending time at a warm cafe is the best thing to do in these colder months.

Here are five cafes in Portland that I personally have tried out and enjoyed.

Case Study

Case Study has multiple locations throughout Portland. I went to the one in Nob Hill. Housed in a repurposed Victorian building, this snug coffee shop really does make me feel right at home. A decorative fireplace adds to the relaxed atmosphere, reminding you to slow down and stay for a while. A lovely green and blue peacock mural graces the main room, which looks out to the street. You can set up your laptop and watch the world go by. Case Study also offers a strawberry-frosted matcha scone, which pairs nicely with hot coffee.

After finishing coffee, you might stroll down NW 23 Ave, which is lined with indie and upscale retail stops.

Other Case Study locations have different vibes. I also went to the one on Alberta Street, which boasts an industrial-chic design with a loft for quiet studying or reading. The location in Downtown has a big living room vibe, which is great for hanging out with a friend or two.

Rose City Book Pub

Rose City Book Pub is practically the neighborhood’s living room. It’s a charming cafe operating as a used book store and community space, while serving beer, wine, and food. During the day, people bring their laptops to work or study; some might curl up in one of the nooks to read. By the evening, the cafe turns into a gathering space, offering live music, events, and art shows. I would say that this is the quintessential cozy cafe in Portland.

Shelves of books line the turquoise and red walls, as natural daylight pours through the large windows. During the rainy days, I sometimes would take my laptop and find the most secluded nook in the cafe. I felt like a cat, just chilling quietly and doing my thing.

There are plenty of non-alcoholic and some vegan options. I had the dry kombucha, which technically has negligible amounts of alcohol in it—but not nearly enough to intoxicate.

I stumbled upon Rose City Book Pub during a morning run. Their illustrative sandwich board showcased the week’s events. That’s when I discovered the local drink and draw group, Digital Dabblers. We gathered at a table with drinks and drew on our tablets and sketchbooks. Meanwhile, a cello player played soft classical tones. What was found by accident turned out to be a relaxing, magical night of creative flow.

The Tao of Tea

The Tao of Tea is a serene teahouse serving small vegan/vegetarian plates and tea drinks from around the world. Stepping inside the first time, I felt immersed in another world. Bamboo pole shelves hold rows of handmade earthenware teacups and pots, as rice paper lamps glow softly, filling the room with a warm ambiance. Relics from around the world—such as Buddha figures, wooden stringed instruments, and artwork—hang on the walls. This whole teahouse feels like a warm hug for the weary traveler.

I had the flavorful chickpea dal over basmati rice, which was absolutely delicious and filling. A samosa—a deep fried pastry filled with seasoned potatoes and green peas—added the perfect finish to the meal.

My friend Aimeé and I shared a pot of the Eight Treasures Tea, which consisted of Chinese dates, goji berries, longan, licorice, raisins, rose petals, chrysanthemum, and some green tea. The pot was clear, so we could see the blended contents. As the tea steeped longer, the dates released their sugars more, mildly sweetening the tea. I have never had anything like it!

Rather than a place to work or study, Tao of Tea would be a better place to have a friend or romantic date. It’s a spot where you catch up on life over tea and nourishing food.

Workers Tap & Cafe

Workers Tap & Cafe is a worker-owned coffee shop and beer bar inside a 1904 Victorian home. This is a place that takes a stand on human rights, including for immigrants, the BIPOC community, unions, Palestine, LGBTQ+, and more. It’s run democratically, and the workers split the profits.

Inside, a few quiet rooms offer ample seating to hang out or chill by yourself. It’s an ideal place to get some work done or curl up with a good book. A lending library offers books on history, leftist literature, and philosophy. You can check a book out with a bartender for free.

The cafe serves pastries, including a couple of vegan options. There’s also a Mexican food cart out back that has some vegan food. Workers Tap & Cafe also hosts community events and meeting spaces.

Rose City Coffee Company

Rose City Coffee Company is a spacious option if you’d like more breathing room. This open-plan coffee shop serves various coffee drinks, which can be made vegan. What caught my eye at first was the mini gift shop of toys, books, art, and trinkets made by local artists. As you wait in line, you might be tempted to get a gift for someone or yourself, while helping support local artists.

Sometimes there’s live music, which adds to the relaxed creative atmosphere. When I went, there were just a handful of people. The more open space was a change of pace, versus the more snug options that I usually enjoy.

5 Goth Places to Enjoy in Portland

Portland is a city where it’s good to be goth. From macabre cafes to heavy metal bars offering vegan junk food, this weird and wonderful city offers something for everyone—including goths and their people.

Fall may be the best time to visit Portland. The air cools down just enough to cozy up in your favorite sweater, as the leaves change to various shades of yellow, orange, and crimson. While Halloween may be over, here are five goth places to enjoy in this city.

Momento Mori Cafe

Embrace your inner darkness at this death-themed coffee shop, Momento Mori Cafe. Named as a reminder of the inevitability of death, this macabre cafe serves delectable vegan skull-shaped treats and ethereal caffeinated elixirs—so you can pick your poison while exploring the depths of these flavors and your existence. Relax while goth tunes croon from the speakers. These tastefully morbid themes are a sharp juxtaposition to its ethos of saving animal’s lives by being a 100% vegan cafe.

A Vampira latte and a pumpkin skull cake.

Normally, I drink black coffee. This time, I tried the Vampira, which is a red velvet latte artfully swirling with creamy oat milk. It paired nicely with this skull-shaped pumpkin cake.

Sometimes there are pop-ups, such as vendors selling vegan bat-shaped cookies, tarot card readings, or tattoos. Events such as paint-and-sips let you stretch those creative muscles and work your magic on a canvas painting.

Black Cat Frozen Custard

Black Cat Frozen Custard is a delightful coven-like parlor that serves frozen custard, which is a fancy ice cream mixed with egg yolks. Have no fear, because a vegan version is here! Topped with swirled whipped cream, rainbow sprinkles, and a bright red cherry on top, the vegan vanilla custard is served in a magical ambience. You’ll find rows of mysterious potions sitting next to skulls, dead flowers, and spell books—all of the arcane goods for a witch’s lair.

A wardrobe offers a portal to a secret speakeasy coffee shop, which requires a password to access it. If you do have it, the person behind the counter will give you a dagger, which serves as a key to the portal. According to visitors, it’s apparently rather cozy inside, so I’ll have to find the password somehow and visit!

The Coffin Club

To get your goth on for the night, look no further than the Coffin Club. This queer-positive space welcomes goths of all walks of life in an inclusive environment. The creatures of the night dress up in shiny, skin-tight black PVC pants and corsets, or black lace and torn fishnets for a more trad Goth look. Skulls glow under red, green, and purple lights as DJs spin favorite goth tunes, both old and new: The Sisters of Mercy, Vision Video, 3Teeth, Nine Inch Nails, and more. Dance on top of the Ouija board dance floor, possibly summoning a spirit or two, or rest (temporarily) in peace for a photo op in an actual coffin.

The bar offers handcrafted mocktails (and cocktails). The Coffin Club even offers a vegan food cart to refuel as you dance the night away.

When I went a couple weeks ago, there was a drag show on the stage. For those events, definitely bring small bills to tip the performers. They work hard, and they’ll appreciate you for it!

Black Water

These chili cheese fries are to die for.

For vegan junk food, the heavy metal bar Black Water might satiate your cravings. The menu offers classic American food such as burgers, fries, and decadent sandwiches stuffed with house-made seitan or fried seasoned tofu. I had the chili cheese fries, which were smothered in vegan chili and cashew cheeze. Since the portions are huge, it’s good to share with a friend!

You’ll find rows of pinball machines to help pass the time while you wait for your food. Live heavy metal bands play frequently through the week at night.

Before anyone says that this kind of vegan food is unhealthy, well, that’s how you know that being vegan really is for the animals here. You can enjoy all of your classic favorite dishes without taking a single life on your plate. As long as less animals are killed for food, then that’s a win!

Lone Fir Cemetery

For a spooky picnic or to enjoy the autumn foliage, Lone Fir Cemetery offers expansive grounds for you to choose from. Since the first burial in 1846, this cemetery has grown to become one of Portland’s oldest cemeteries with 25,000 people buried here.

It also started off with a solitary douglas fir tree (hence the name), which is still standing to this day. Since then, more trees have been introduced, and today there are over 700 trees representing 63 species.

When the weather is nice, you can dress up in your finest goth splendor, set up a picnic, and enjoy lunch among the 25,000 souls floating around here. Nobody will ever question it. And remember, momento mori. 😉

Vegan Food in Incheon and Seoul

Eating the best japchae.

My visit to Korea isn’t complete without talking about the vegan food. In Korean families, instead of hearing, “How are you?”, you may hear, “Have you eaten yet?” That’s because food is considered a love language in Korean families. It brings people together, and eating is considered a social activity. It might be a challenge to find a restaurant that serves meals for one person, because many places serve at least two at a table. However, you can still dine by yourself if you please.

Food for survival and rebuilding

There’s a reason why food is a love language here.

My mother was born right before the Korean War. She spent her earliest years during the war and the rest of her childhood in meager conditions, when Korea was left a divided country in shambles. The Koreans had to rebuild their communities piece by piece. At the time, they scrounged whatever food was available. Meat was scarce and considered a luxury; they would have it during special occasions, such as birthdays. Omma and her family mostly subsisted on rice, vegetables, tofu, and some seafood. They cooked and ate together, because their survival depended on it.

As she raised me and my sister, our mother fed us comforting Korean dishes, such as kimbap, japchae, rice, kimchi, and fried tofu. While meat was a part of our diets, it didn’t feel like a big part of our lives (at least, not for me). Perhaps this is why I became vegetarian so easily as a kid: it was already written in our ancestral diets.

But taking Korean lunch to school was a different story. Growing up in the rural suburbs of Northern Virginia, the fear of immigrants was prevalent. As I mentioned in my previous entry, anything that wasn’t considered American was unfamiliar, gross, stinky, or even downright repugnant. Once, I brought Omma’s delicious kimbap and kimchi to school, where the smell of spicy fermented cabbage permeated my vicinity. And because kids were being kids, they never let me hear the end of it. For a while, my nickname was “garlic breath.” That was the last time I brought Korean food to school.

That never stopped me from enjoying it though. They can take away Korean food from my cold, dead hands.

Finding vegan food in South Korea

I’ll be honest: it was actually hard to find vegan food in South Korea, especially in Incheon. The country is surrounded by water, so seafood is abundant. Most restaurants have dishes with seafood or meat; there would be no vegan options on the menu. If I had to rate how easy it was to find vegan food, it’s a 4 out of 10. I definitely need more than a week to find more places!

Like all other trips, the Happy Cow app is a lifesaver to find vegan food. It costs $5 from the iPhone app store, but it’s worth it. I use it all the time, whether abroad or back home.

Since I was staying in Incheon, there weren’t a lot of vegan options around my hotel. Thankfully, I came prepared with enough energy bars to have breakfast for the week. Trader Joe’s has their name-brand energy bars for a little over a dollar, which saves time and money when starting the day.

Banchan dishes with soon tofu

After seeing our Imo in Incheon, I took Jess out to a vegan lunch at Gapyeong Suntofu Barley House. Run by an elderly couple, the restaurant specializes in barley rice and soft tofu that you mix with soy sauce. Although they do serve meat, most of the dishes are vegan by default. It’s served with doenjang (fermented soybean paste), gochujang (spicy sauce), and banchan (small plates of vegetables and kimchi for sharing). We ate, slurping our tofu with soysauce and topping spoonfuls of rice with pickled sides.

Tteok comes in many sizes, shapes, and colors.

One day, I wandered around the enormous Lotte department store in Incheon. At the bottom floor, there are many restaurants and cafes. I found a vendor that makes tteok, which are sticky rice cakes that often have beans folded into the mix. Usually tteok is cheap, but these were kind of pricey, since they were in a department store. But the soft, comforting treat was what I had been looking for. It was legit.

Vegan Street food in Seoul

Fresh japchae and kimbap

For lunch and dinner, I often went to Seoul, where vegan street food is more common. In the popular markets such as Myeongdong, Namdaemun, and Gwangjang, some street vendors offer classic Korean dishes:

  • Kimbap: Savory veggies rolled up in rice and seaweed, kind of like sushi. But it’s not sushi.
  • Japchae: Sweet potato-based glass noodles with spinach, carrots, and bean sprouts, and seasoned with black pepper, soy sauce, and sesame oil. It’s a childhood favorite of mine.
  • Tteok: Sweet, sticky rice cakes. They come in different colors and may have a sweet red bean filling or even ground sesame. Others may have sweet peas or beans folded between layers. You have to chew the sticky morsels thoroughly to avoid choking. Another favorite growing up!
  • Bindaetteok: Deep-fried mungbean pancakes. Many of them have bean sprouts and onions mixed in; others have meat. The vegan bindaetteok has lots of protein and fat to help keep me full and energized. In Gwangjang Market, there were plenty of bindaetteok vendors that had vegan options!
Just can’t get enough tteok. These were divine.

I would say that the expansive Gwangjang Market has the most variety of vegan options for cheap. Apparently, there’s even a vegan food tour, but they were unfortunately full. (There’s always next time!) You do need to bring cash, since most places don’t take credit cards. Many vendors speak minimal English, so having some Korean basics can go a long way when ordering.

Vegan Restaurants in Seoul

You’ll have a much easier time finding a vegan restaurant in Seoul than in Incheon. As I mentioned, while vegan options are expanding, sometimes it can still be hard to find food. For instance, I really wanted to find a tofu wrap by ByTofu, and it was across town. From Incheon, it took nearly a couple hours to get there. By the time I arrived, the cafe had closed to prepare for its dinner menu. I was so bummed, because the food looked absolutely scrumptious in the photos. It’s like that sometimes, though.

Plantude

I pulled up the Happy Cow app to find the nearest vegan spot, which was Plantude on the seventh floor within I’Park Mall at Yongsan Station. It took an hour to get there. By the time I arrived, I hadn’t eaten for four hours!

“Soft Tofu from Hell” is a tofu jjigae in a piping-hot clay pot.

Plantude has Korean dishes with a Western twist. I had the “Soft Tofu in Hell” dish, which was like a spicy tofu jjigae (stew) with tomatoes. It’s served with rice and garlic bread. The dish comes piping-hot, so don’t touch the clay bowl like I did. I burned myself, so that dish really lives up to its name. Lol. In all seriousness, it really did hit the spot. It’s amazing how food can leave you feeling energized and happy.

Maji Temple Food

After having a photoshoot at Gyeongbokgung Palace, it was time for lunch. After turning in my rental hanbok, I walked over to the tranquil Maji restaurant, which serves traditional Korean temple food. Embodied by Buddhist spirituality, temple food is vegan and doesn’t use the five pungent vegetables—green onions, garlic, chives, wild chives, and Chinese squill—since they may disrupt the spiritual practice. It often uses fermented products, such as doenjang: a fermented soybean paste.

The main lunch item came as a variety of small banchan dishes with the sweet and sour shiitake mushrooms and japchae as the main dishes. The fragrant steamed rice came inside a wrapped lotus leaf, and the doenjang was aged for three years, which brings out a deeper flavor. Because I’m a japchae lover through and through, that was my favorite dish.

The desserts were mildly sweet.

For dessert, the yugwa (puffed rice cake that melts in your mouth) and the little moist yakgwa cookie were adorable and paired well with the tea. They finished the meal off nicely.

It was raining hard outside, and I had my rain jacket and wide-brimmed hat. In Seattle, I’ve grown used to not using an umbrella, as long as I was dressed appropriately. When the owner of the restaurant asked how I was going to stay dry, I said that my jacket would do. Then she graciously pulled out her own umbrella and insisted that I take it. I tried to decline, but she put it in my hand and told me that it’s a gift. I was floored by the kindness of this woman! The umbrella did turn out to be useful, and I spent the rest of the day staying dry. People should eat at Maji Temple food, because it really is made with love and kindness.

Vegan treats in Seoul

As the vegan lifestyle becomes more popular, so does the variety of vegan treats that you can find in Seoul. If you’re tired of chewing sticky tteok, then I have a couple of delicious suggestions.

Overte Donuts

O.verte Donuts is a snug café that serves vegan donuts with sophisticated flavors such as raspberry pistachio, matcha glaze and crumble, and tiramisu glaze. I had both the matcha and tiramisu flavors, and the soft texture was divine! I wasn’t even looking for donuts, but this was certainly calling my name. They also serve coffee, but I didn’t have that in the evening. I bought the donuts as takeaway, since the café was inundated with exuberant Korean business men who sat around the only table. It’s all good!

Ashville Bakery

Asheville Cafe is a warm vegan bakery set just around a corner in the Bukchon Hanok Village. After walking up and down those steep hills, some treats were in order! You have to walk down some stairs to get to the hidden bakery. I ordered a pastry stuffed with a sweet, airy cream that’s reminiscent of a fluffy cloud. I also had a decadent ppat (red bean) pastry, a rich bread stuffed with sweet red beans. Usually, they’re made with butter and eggs. I used to enjoy them when I was a vegetarian. This vegan version tasted just like it!

The past, present, and future of Korean food

Japchae noodles with shredded vegetables in the background.
Your non-Korean friends might love japchae noodles.

As I mentioned in my last post, Korean culture, products, and food are in vogue in the United States. I’m really glad that South Korea is finally getting recognition, since they’ve been fighting to get to where they are today. And the best thing is that Americans, particularly white people, are finally trying Korean food and actually enjoying it.

But something that tugs at me is, why did it also take white society’s stamp of approval to finally make this food popular in mainstream society? What was once considered stinky and gross—such as kimchi—is now touted as a health food by many white Instagram influencers and chefs while often ignoring the history behind it. (Though, the probiotics are actually good for you.) Sometimes, they’ll make their own “new and improved” kimchi at higher prices. What was wrong with it before? If you want kimchi, then try supporting a Korean-owned business who has the tried and true recipes.

Don’t get me wrong—I’m glad that more people of all walks of life are enjoying what Koreans have to offer. It really is good stuff! I truly hope that this is more than just a health fad, because Korean food has existed long before this current era, and it will exist long afterwards.

Reconnecting in South Korea

For the first time in over 30 years, I have returned to the motherland, South Korea. My sister Jess and I visited our Imo, our mother’s older sister. Since our mom has passed, Imo is the last link to the Korean side of the family. We haven’t seen her since we were kids. A week-long visit was in order to reconnect.

Me in Incheon.

Caught between two worlds

Growing up, I always felt caught between two worlds. My mother was Korean, and my father was a white man.

My parents’ wedding in 1984.

My first language was Korean: Dad would work during the day, and Omma would stay home to take care of me. Naturally, my first conversations were in Korean. I spoke it fluently until preschool, where I didn’t know how to communicate with my English-speaking classmates.

A collage from 2009.

Through childhood, being bi-racial felt like a cultural tug-of-war. In Omma’s Korean circles, I looked more like “the other side.” At school, my blond-haired, blue-eyed counterparts would say that I looked “Chinese” and “not American,” vocalizing tonal sounds to mock the language I grew up with. In the rural suburbs of Virginia, anyone who didn’t fit the “standard American” image was considered unclean, weird, or even dangerous. As I grew older, I became self-conscious of my Korean background. In addition, my mother and I always had a fractious relationship, which sadly made it harder to connect with her. Eventually, I stopped speaking Korean.

It was like that then—and still is today

At first, going to South Korea felt heavy. A few weeks before our visit, ICE agents arrested hundreds of immigrants, mostly Koreans, at a Hyundai plant without any diplomatic notice. The Supreme Court also ruled out that ICE can arrest anyone who has a darker skin tone or speaks a language that isn’t English, especially if they speak Spanish. They’ve even started detaining Black U.S. citizens.

As shown above, anti-immigrant hate is nothing new. It’s a shame, because these attitudes often disconnect us from our cultures, as we do our best to assimilate. It always felt like I had to pick one side over the other. Since we were children at the time, we strove to be products of our environment, because our social survival depended on it. But as a result, the Korean side of me has felt fractured for most of my life.

It’s never too late to reconnect

Immigrants and minorities were often feared…and for what? All they want to do is live in peace with their families and connect with communities. Immigrants are beloved and valued in society, because they introduce new cuisines, customs, and perspectives that we can all learn from. Also, living with immigrants can show you to be kind to all kinds, especially when they look differently from you. Anyone who thinks otherwise is really missing out.

Over time, I learned that no one can take our cultural roots away from us. So, this trip to South Korea was kind of like a pilgrimage to reconcile our racial identity and find the missing pieces. It’s been healing in a way, especially with seeing our Imo.

Using the Korean language

Duolingo knows me well.

My sister and I mostly stayed in Incheon, where our Imo lives. Here in Incheon, it helps to know some basic Korean. What I had forgotten has come back faster than I expected! I still know enough to get by, such as asking for directions, ordering food, and expressing my likes and dislikes. I can read simple sentences. However, I certainly understand far more than what I can express in this language. Using Korean in the motherland was healing there, too—especially when the locals validated me. All is not lost!

Most Koreans don’t speak English; maybe about 20% know some. Knowing a little bit of Korean can go a long way.

Incheon’s pretty lights drew me in.

Our aunt, Imo

Oh, Imo. “Imo” means “aunt” in Korean. She has dementia and has been under the care of a nursing home for quite some time now. Jess and I hadn’t seen her since we were kids, so we didn’t know if she would recognize us.

We walked into the room, and Imo looked up, confused. Then her eyes lit up with a small smile.

She squeezed our hands, and the three of us were together again in quiet joy.

Through the week, we did errands with her. It can be hard for Imo to talk, and she only speaks Korean. She also needs assistance in getting around places. With an assistant’s help, we were able to help her stuff done.

Imo asked if she could buy us lunch, although she had already eaten. Instead of “How are you?”, you might hear, “Have you eaten?” That’s because food is a love language in Korean families.

After doing the errands together, it took a lot out of Imo. She lay down for a nap, and it was time for Jess and I to go off on our own before we visit her again the next day.

Seeing Imo was healing, like I’m picking up some of these lost pieces. Even though she has daily challenges, the connection was still there after all these years. Since she’s the last link of our Korean family, this has made our visit to the motherland even more special.

Connecting further with my Korean roots

When I wasn’t visiting Imo, I wanted to further connect with my Korean roots. Jess ended up going back home earlier than me, so I got to explore Seoul on my own a little bit.

This transit pass comes with stickers!

But first, look at this transit pass! It’s pink with a cute character and holographic foil. I bought this from a convenience store at the airport. But sometimes it wouldn’t reload in the subway kiosks. If I had to buy another transit pass, the T-Money card would be better, since it’s more flexible and takes you further.

I ended up spending quite a bit on transportation through the week. When you’re taking the subway all day long, those costs add up. Fortunately, at the end of your trip, you can go back to a convenience store and ask for a cash refund from whatever is left over on your card.

My obsession with norigae tassels

Norigae for days

Not only did I grow up eating comforting Korean food that Omma made, in our home there were beautiful pieces of black-lacquered furniture with intricate inlaid designs of iridescent abalone shells. Colorful norigae tassels hung on cabinet knobs, doors, and walls. Depending on what shape they featured, each kind of norigae offered a different kind of fortune:

  • Butterfly: Symbolizes good luck and longevity, and a life filled with happiness.
  • Coin Pouch: Symbolizes to bring the wearer prosperity and riches.
  • Gochu (Chili Pepper): Bringing hope to bear many sons or to ward off bad spirits with its spice. It turns out that the “gochu” is a phallic symbol and is modern slang for “penis.”

We grew up with many gochu norigaes in the house. Since our mom had two daughters, she probably thought that the chili pepper was just an important part of Korean cuisine. And those spicy chili peppers would still keep bad forces at bay. Personally, I choose to believe that Koreans just really like peppers, as evidenced in their food and their “spicy” and passionate temperament (known as “han”).

In the underground markets of Myeongdong, there were stores galore selling norigae of all shapes, sizes, and colors. While the bustling open-air shopping district pulsed during the day, the market below was a hidden respite with handicraft shops and cooler air. I bought a handful of those colorful tassels to bring back home and to give out as gifts to friends.

Photoshoot in a hanbok

Another special thing I did in Seoul was rent a hanbok, a traditional Korean dress, and have a photoshoot at Gyeongbokgung Palace. It was the perfect way to lean into my Korean roots here as well.

My first birthday celebration, the doljanchi

The last time I wore a hanbok was during my childhood. For my first birthday, my Omma put me in a rainbow hanbok and threw a doljanchi to celebrate it. Back then, infant mortality was quite high in Korea. So, when a baby made it to their first hundred days and eventually their first year, it was a big deal. Practiced since the Joseon period, the family would have a huge celebration for the baby, offering food and rituals. The baby would pick up an object that would predict their future. I don’t know what object I picked up. But wasn’t I cute?

Gyeongbokgung Palace was built in the year 1395 as the first royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. It’s where the first modern script, Hangul, was invented. Over the centuries, parts of the palace have been destroyed and reconstructed from fires, wars, and even Japan’s colonization in 1910. Since then, there have been efforts to reconstruct more buildings and preserve the cultural site.

It rained during the day of the photoshoot, but the setting was still gorgeous. People still looked great in their finest hanboks. I even had my hair styled! If you’re going to Gyeongbokgung Palace, consider renting a hanbok and walking around like royalty. Doing so gives you free admission to the palace grounds. It’s rather budget-friendly, although the photoshoot was extra (I paid $100). You get a couple of hours to walk around as you please.

National Folk Museum of Korea

A doljanchi exhibit at the National Folk Museum of Korea

Afterwards, I went to the National Folk Museum of Korea to further understand how Koreans lived in the past and present. It shows exhibits and artifacts of rites of passage during a person’s life, and how the Japanese tried to destroy Korean culture (yet it prevailed), as well as detailing why education has been so important for citizens. These days, as South Korea modernizes, it has been taking on more Western influences. This museum preserves knowledge of how the traditional way of life has been like, while offering modern exhibits as well.

Walking in Bukchon Hanok Village

Close to the Gyeongbokgung Palace is the Bukchon Hanok Village. I spent hours walking through the labyrinth neighborhood of traditional Korean homes. Some buildings are shops, tea houses, and restaurants to peruse, and many others are private homes. If you’re visiting, try to talk in quieter voices as to not disturb the residents. The hills are quite steep, so bring good walking shoes!

The Markets in Seoul

There are three popular markets that I went to: Myeongdong, Namdaemun, and Gwangjang. Of the three, Gwangjang was my favorite. This sprawling market has several departments, such as an extensive food court offering Korean street food, souvenirs, more norigae, colorful fabrics to make custom hanboks, bedsheets, and more.

You can wander for hours among the shops. It was the perfect opportunity to flex my Korean skills, which tickled the shop owners. I ordered and bought things entirely in Korean. They would smile and tell me I speak pretty well. I consider that a win!

Going back home

A week really wasn’t enough time in South Korea. Still, Jess and I did what we needed to do, which was to see Imo. I can’t speak for Jess, but I thought this was a good start to healing what had been lost.

In the Incheon International Airport, there’s a small cultural center showcasing traditional Korean arts and crafts. The center offers workshops and programs for visitors, such as making small purses, paper jewelry boxes, and paper fans. There’s a gift shop and even a photobooth where people could try on a hanbok and take pics. It was one last taste of Korea before I departed.

Final thoughts of reconnecting with these Korean roots

South Korea has fought hard to get to where it is today. Now, “K-products” are in vogue. While no one seemed to know Korea’s existence while growing up, K-pop, K-beauty, and K-dramas are now considered a premium label. This recognition is well-deserved, and I’m glad that Korea is finally getting its moment in the spotlight. For example, K-Pop Demon Hunters is a world-renowned animation about three K-Pop singers fighting underworld demons to save the world and seal the Honmoon. The entire soundtrack is a banger, belting out upbeat lyrics about finding oneself and reconciling the shadow parts. Hit songs were blasting throughout Seoul, and apparently, the world.

I just hope that Korean culture more than just a trend, because we’re here to stay.

And as for me, no one can take away the missing pieces that I’ve picked up. It’s going to be a long road, and I have the rest of my life to reconnect with these lost parts now.

A Tiny House, a Tiny Car in Portland

Hello! It’s been quite a year on my end.

Greetings from Portland!

First, my mother passed away in April. I never mentioned her on here, because we always had a very complicated relationship. Despite our vast differences, one of the most important things she passed onto me is my Korean heritage, which sparked my curiosity about the world.

Omma and me.

Now that my mom is gone, something shifted inside me. I felt restless. Since her passing, the phrase “you only live once” has been ringing hard in my ears.

Leaving Seattle

After living in Seattle for 15 years, I decided to leave and embark on a slow road trip across the U.S.

Leaving Seattle for a while is bittersweet. This is, after all, my dream city. In 2010, I moved here to get a fresh start and heal, as my mental health was in shambles and I lived in survival mode. Most importantly, I wanted to be an artist in Seattle and be my real weird self in a city that celebrates it. And Seattle took me in like a lost kitten, just like that.

This city truly healed me. Now it’s time for a change.

I just made it to Portland last week to get my feet wet. I’ll stay for a few months in each city to get to know it more intimately. Portland is a good start, because I’ll need to come back to Seattle occasionally for stuff–like adjusting my braces that were supposed to have come off in February. Then I’m going to Nashville. Denver and Minneapolis are also on my list. Cities with a good art community and vegan food. In between, I’ll still travel internationally. I may take detours to stay with friends and family along the way.

Starting off with a Mini Cooper S

Ronnie in a dark gray Mini Cooper S
My dream car, the Mini Cooper S

In 2017, I sold my car before my trip around the world. After that, I didn’t get another one for 8 years. As someone who is conscious of mitigating the carbon footprint, I opted instead for public transportation, walking, and biking. Also, maintaining a car is so expensive, at least in Seattle. At first, I was going to get around the country with public transportation. But soon enough, having a car seemed practical.

Since my early 20s, I’ve always wanted a Mini Cooper. I mean, look at it—it’s overwhemingly cute. When a friend showed me an ad for a 2012 Mini Cooper S, I knew it was coming with me. It had all of this work done to it, and the price was a great deal. The dark color with the black rims is perfect. Zippy and compact, I can open the sun roof and roll down the windows to cruise through the city while feeling so cool. Lol.

In reality, it is a pretty neat car. The only thing is that the car has 2 doors, and the back space isn’t very big, even with the seats folded down. So, I had to be selective on what comes with me across the country. And honestly, that’s not a bad thing because it makes me appreciate what I do have.

Tiny House in Portland

Tiny home, warm vibes.

Last week, I moved into a 300 square-foot tiny house, where I’ll stay for the next 2 1/2 months! Nestled among the quirky art galleries and vegan restaurants in the Alberta Arts District, this adorable tiny house has a loft sleeping area, a well-stocked vegan pantry, and most of the comforts of home. It’s a few feet away from the main house.

My landlord gave the rundown of the tiny house. It’s more sustainability-focused, so we try to minimize waste. Dry goods can be purchased in bulk at the Alberta Co-Op with the reusable jars in the cupboard. We bring groceries home with reusable bags. And we try to bike, walk, or take the bus if we can help it, instead of driving. I like the way he thinks.

The comfy sleeping loft.

Since the house is small, I must be mindful of keeping it neat. The space can easily get cluttered. For instance, dishes pile up fast in the sink. The bathroom doesn’t have a sink, so I use the kitchen for brushing my teeth, washing my face, etc. There also isn’t much counter space, so I have to always keep that clear too. If things get cluttered up, it impacts my mental health as well.

Still, I’m impressed by how optimized the space is. With size limitations, you have to get creative with storing things. There are hooks, shelves, nooks, and crannies to store away belongings.

Fresh apples, a pear, and raspberries from the garden.

The whole property even has a garden with several fruit trees! Every summer in Seattle, I’d go urban foraging for plums and berries. This time, delicious pears, apples, figs, and grapes are readily available in the backyard. My landlord also gifted me the last of his frozen raspberries from the garden, plus some vegan protein powder. I’ve been making smoothies from all of that fruit. Picking the fruit straight from the source reminds us where food actually comes from.

Can I just stay here forever?

My First Week in Portland

I spent the first week settling in and getting to know the city a little bit. During the day, I work remotely. In the evenings, I explore.

First Friday Art Walk

On First Fridays of the month, there’s an art walk between the Laurelhurst and Hawthorne neighborhoods. It’s more like an art bike ride, since the galleries are more spread apart. You can join a group of bicyclists, and they ride from place to place throughout the evening.

Anna Magruder
“Chloe”
Oil on collaged canvas
Anna Magruder
“Flower Power”
Paper clay, acrylic, found beads & wooden bowl

I started at Sidestreet Arts, where they featured an art exhibition about cats! For thousands of years, cats have been beloved members of society. This art show honored the magnificent beings that they are. You’ll see cats of all mediums, whether they’re colorful realistic paintings, illuminated stained glass, or whimsical paper mâché figures made of pages from a book. The exhibition was rather small, though that’s what made it endearing. Cats love cozy spaces, so the setting was perfect anyway.

Mt. Tabor Park

On Saturday, I explored Mt. Tabor Park. Built on top of an extinct volcano, this popular park offers scenic walking trails, reservoirs, and an amphitheater. The visitor center was inside a small utilitarian room, manned by a jolly park employee who was eager to talk to anyone who wanted information. He gave me a super helpful map. I spent an hour and a half walking through the park. There were several events going on, like a wedding. In a picnic, a bunch of women were wearing red with colorful flower crowns, as if it were someone’s red faerie birthday party. After reaching the summit, I went back the opposite direction to see more of it.

Sunday Farmers Market

On Sunday, there’s the King Farmers Market in the neighborhood. This one runs from May until November. Since the season is slowly giving way to fall, there are lots of veggies like pumpkins and acorn squash.

I ordered a loaded açai bowl from Carioca Bowls topped with superfoods, like cacao nibs, pumpkin and hemp seeds, and berries. Then I bought the most colorful acorn squash there was, along with a pound of string beans. (Try roasting them in lemon juice and olive oil—they’re delicious!)

I am very pleased with myself.

I fit right into Portland, and I can’t wait to show more of what this city has to offer. I’m so grateful that I get to live here in my tiny home with my tiny car.

The word "comer" is suspended among umbrellas of many colors.

Vegan Food in Buenos Aires

Before coming to Buenos Aires, I had read how important el asado, or steak, is to Argentinian cuisine. In fact, it’s woven into the national identity, like fútbol and yerba mate. It appears everywhere in ads, on the streets, and on restaurant menus. At first, this city sounds like one of the most vegan-unfriendly places on the planet.

Nothing could be further from the truth. When I arrived in Buenos Aires, I was blown away by how many vegan options there were! For a country that’s known for its meat, it was incredibly easy to find vegan food here.

A fruit stand offering rows of fruits and vegetables
It’s really easy to eat vegan in Buenos Aires.

For starters, there are a lot of fruterías, or fruit stands in Buenos Aires. You can stock up on fresh fruits and veggies throughout the city for cheap. Since it’s summer during this time of year, many produce is at its prime. I love stocking up on fresh berries during the summer. It’s a refreshing option.

Me and my alfajor addiction.

Alfajores are little cookie sandwiches with dulce de leche (kind of like a caramel paste) filling inside and enrobed in chocolate. They are ubiquitous throughout Argentina, Uruguay, and Chile. When I tried one in Chile, I was blown away by its light and creamy texture. Imagine my delight when I discovered more in Buenos Aires! There were so many flavors to try: dark chocolate, white chocolate, strawberry, lemon, etc. You can probably tell that I developed an alfajor addiction. They’re really good with coffee. You might have a late-afternoon merienda with an alfajor and a coffee with your friends.

Vegan alfajores

I went to many places in Buenos Aires. Here are my favorite eateries that I have to share.

An empanada and an alfajor

Craft Vegan Bakery

Can you believe these pastries are all vegan?!

I was wandering around the Caballito neighborhood when I stumbled upon a cozy vegan panadería called Craft Vegan Bakery. It’s not every day that I can find a vegan croissant. Craft Vegan Bakery offers decadent vegan pastries, such as cinnamon rolls, scones, or a medialuna: a croissant with a dulce de leche or a light chocolate creme filling. They also have whole loaves of bread. I just stayed with the pastries. I will never turn down a good cinnamon roll either, working my way to its warm, doughy center. This is a chain bakery, so there are numerous locations throughout the city.

Liberación Cocina Vegana

A cinnamon roll from Liberación Cocina Vegana.

Liberación Cocina Vegana (meaning “vegan kitchen liberation”) is a takeaway food joint offering empanadas, sandwiches, and prepared food like pasta and lentil dishes. When I stopped by, there was a full tray of fresh empanadas. Empanadas are savory hand pies, and they’re very popular in Argentina. I bought a couple, plus a cinnamon roll. Sometimes I like to compare notes between places. To me, that cinnamon roll was a little drier than the one from Craft Vegan Bakery, but I still liked it. At the end of the day, it’s like comparing apples and oranges.

A tray of warm vegan empanadas.

When I went to Liberación Cocina Vegana, they were working hard to fill in holiday food orders. There wasn’t a lot of prepared food when I went in, but maybe that ebbs and flows.

Raslok

Probably the most adorable vegan grocery store I’ve ever been to.

Raslok is a snug vegan grocery store with a cute cafe in the upstairs loft. In the store, you’ll find goods like sauces, dry goods, coffee, tea, plant-based meats and cheeses, and many snacks. In fact, that’s where I found many of the alfajores. The adorable cafe upstairs serves nutritious whole-foods plant-based meals. There are dishes like lentil burgers, salads, quinoa bowls, and lots more. I didn’t try any, but the food looks minimally processed, so you know it’s good for you. You’ll also find vegan cookbooks in Spanish, cosmetics, vitamins, and supplements upstairs as well. If you pay with cash, your bill is 10% less than if you pay with a credit card.

Menta y Limon

Before going to El Cemeterio de Recoleta, I stopped by Menta y Limon for fresh empanadas. The lunch special offered three empanadas for $5! The ones I got were stuffed with vegan meats, creamy melted cheese, and roasted veggies. The eatery is housed under a food court with many multi-colored umbrellas hanging from the skylights.

“Comer” means “eat.”

Lado V

Lado V was a vibrant vegan restaurant among the trendy bars and nightclubs in the heart of Palermo. The multi-colored interactive art installations offered the perfect experience to enjoy vegan hamburgers, pizzas, and more. Many nights, DJs would play their sets in a room with glittering disco balls, hanging lanterns, and expressive murals cast in rainbow lights. The food was so delicious, luring many omnivores! In a country that is renowned for wine and asado (steak), Lado V showed that the vegan lifestyle is extraordinary and fun. Buenos Aires really does offer something for everyone. I’m falling more in love with this city every day!

Shortly after my return to the U.S., it looks like Lado V has closed its doors. It looks like they’re going to reopen in a different location later down the road, but it’s unclear when.

Guille Veggie

My partner, his best friend, and I were in the mood for Peruvian food at Guille Veggie one night. Peruvian food usually has potatoes in their dishes, because many different types are cultivated there. I had the “Lomito saltado de Soja,” a seasoned fire-roasted seitan dish with herbed potatoes, onions, and red and green bell peppers. I don’t quite remember what the other dishes were called, but most of them had potatoes or beans as the base. Guille Veggie even offers Inca Cola, a fluorescent yellow drink that tastes like cream soda and bubble gum. It was my first time having it, and I was expecting a lemon or lime flavor.

Final Thoughts About the Vegan Restaurants in Buenos Aires

Before, even though I had browsed the maps for vegan restaurants in Buenos Aires, the abundant options throughout this city blew my mind! Even Seattle could learn a thing or two—which, by the way, keeps losing vegan places, but I digress. Here in B.A., it’s practically raining empanadas and alfajores. When you have the compassionate option to eat with peace on your plate, I hope this list offers a good starting point on where to go. (Except for Lado V—R.I.P. for now).