Month: October 2020

Road Trip down the Oregon Coast, Part 2: Redwood National Park

The Redwoods are a real treat.

The Redwood Forests have been on my bucket list for a long time, and sometimes forests call for an adventure as part of a self-care plan. I left Astoria on my way down the Oregon Coast, taking my sweet time down U.S. Highway 101, before landing at the Redwood National Forest.

Meandering down the Oregon Coast

The Oregon Coast

Route 101 is a scenic highway that winds down the Oregon Coast, stringing charming coastal towns along the way. Blue waves crash against the rocky cliffs as you drive down the forested hills. It really is something.

Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach, OR

I made a stop at the popular Haystack Rock on Cannon Beach, which isn’t far from Astoria. I arrived during the low tide, which revealed many tide pools with sea creatures. It’s not everyday that most of us get to marvel at starfish and clusters of sea anemones.

Driving down the Coast was an all-day adventure. I made it to the Redwood National and State Parks before it got dark. After setting up camp the first night, I spent two full days there. I camped in the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park: two nights in Elk Prairie, and the third night was at Gold Bluffs Beach.

Holy Sequoia!

A real tree-hugger.

One look at the Redwoods, and you’ll see why a million people flock over here every year. These grand Sequoias are over 3,000 years old and tower around 300 feet. While these are mighty trees, you feel so safe and held inside that luxurious forest. There’s really nothing quite like nestling under the gentle evergreen giants.

Day 1: Redwood National Park

For the first full day after setting up camp, I went on some shorter hikes (3 miles or less) within Redwood National Park, which borders the Prairie Creek Redwoods.

First I went to Redwood Creek Trail. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a trail running along Redwood Creek. There are two creek crossings, and most days out of the year the creek is shallow enough to ford. (It gets too dangerous to cross in the winter, when the rains come.) The first crossing was a mile and a half in, which was a good turn-around point. If you want to go further, the entire trail is 8 miles one way.

I’m barely touching the edges of the tree.

Next, I went onto Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail, one of the most popular hikes. It’s a short loop around old-growth Redwoods. The smell of the wildfires hit strongly on this path, and the smoke cast an eerie orange glow. It was still very scenic, and I almost wanted to curl up inside a hollowed Sequoia.

Trillium Falls

Then, I drove over to Trillium Falls Trail, which is a loop featuring a small waterfall. I had the whole trail to myself and did not see a single soul.

Finally, I drove back to the Elk Prairie campsite, which provides access trails. I could squeeze in one more short hike before stoking up the campfire.

Day 2: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and Gold Bluffs Beach

In the morning, it was time to pack up and set out for the Gold Bluffs Beach campsite.

Steven Spielberg filmed a Jurassic Park movie here in Fern Canyon.
I felt bright-eyed and bushy-tailed.
Look at the beauty of Fern Canyon!

For the second full day, I stayed within Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. First, I paid Fern Canyon a little visit. Fern Canyon is set in a stony creek and truly lives up to its name: it’s a 50-foot high gorge boasting flourishing verdant ferns and moisture-loving mosses. It’s no wonder why Steven Spielberg picked this spot to film Jurassic Park 2: The Lost World.

After the saunter around Fern Canyon, I drove back to the campsite and pulled out the paper map. This day was a good one for a big 12-mile hike among these gentle giant Sequoias.

Let nature cradle your curious spirit.

Starting from the campsite, and across the dirt road by a creek, is the Miner’s Ridge trail entrance. This trail zigzags up a ridge before leading to another trail that ends at the previous Elk Prairie campground.

Look up at the god-like trees.

I could read the map easily, which was always a challenge before. Usually I have a tendency to get lost, but this time there was no fear or anxiety. There was a profound inner peace resting within, as this child-like curiosity returned. I felt so safe and held inside the forest. I could feel the gentle pulse of the grand Redwood forest, so very much alive.

Doing yoga moves on an old Redwood stump.

When you’re in such immense surrounds, every worry and fear that you have melts away as you become one with the forest. Everything inside your world seems insignificant, as you’re part of a much larger one around you. Your consciousness expands in wonder with the forest.

Just let me appreciate this for a little while longer.

Choose your path.

After reaching the Elk Prairie campground, I turned around and continued the loop onto the James Irvine Trail. I can’t say which one is better; they’re apples and oranges. The James Irvine Trail ends at Fern Canyon, where I visited earlier in the day.

The fog had rolled in as it got darker, with visibility being less than a few hundred feet. While it was only a couple of miles to the campsite from Fern Canyon, the fog was so dense that it was hard to see where I was actually going. I continued walking south until the first tents emerged.

After dropping my backpack off my tired body, I started a campfire and savored some vegetable soup and picked berries after a long all-day hike. Food tastes so much better after exploring a vast lush escape. I slowly ate, exhausted and happy, before getting ready to retire for the night.

The Redwoods beckon again

A Sequoia that commands respect.

I’ve been back for a few days, and already the forest is calling me again. This is definitely something I want to explore more of. While I did traverse a good chunk, there’s definitely more to be seen and felt! The Sequoias command respect from anyone who is privileged to be graced with their presence. No wonder the Redwood Forest rests in the spirits of so many people. Once you see what it’s all about, it’s unforgettable.

Road Trip down the Oregon Coast, Part 1: Astoria

Houses in the foreground with boats at sea in the background under a multi-colored sunrise
Sunrise in Astoria
Being by the water is lovely.

Sometimes self-care means going on a week-long road trip, where you answer the call of the sea and the forests. I’ve heard so many wonderful about the Oregon Coast. After feeling antsy and stagnant from staying in Seattle all year, it was time to mosey on down to Astoria, before making it to the Redwood National and State Parks.

But first… vegan treats in PDX!

The All-Or-Nothing seasonal donut from Doe Donuts is filled with cookie butter, and topped with chocolate glaze and raw cookie dough.

I had to dip into Portland first and get some treats on my way to Astoria. I was going to meet a friend and would hate to have come empty-handed. Of course, I had to try Doe Donut’s new seasonal flavors, including their ultra-decadent All-Or-Nothing donut.

Gluten-free and vegan cookie from Harlow.

Astoria: a hidden gem along Oregon’s coast

I should move into this house in particular. 😉

Astoria is a quaint seaside town in Oregon. I’m the kind of traveler who tends to cram everything in one visit, but the calm energy of this sleepy town offers a leisurely change of pace. Many places had limited hours due to Covid, and some have closed for the season. I only had a day and a half to spend here. My friends, Lesli and Larry, graciously let me stay in their gorgeous home here. It was in a great hillside location within walking distance of everything.

Old friends

Check out Dianne’s artwork by Kit’s Apothecary for this month!

My friend, Dianne, was my sister’s old friend back in the day. Dianne and I still kept in touch. We’re both artists and have always supported each other’s work. She was hanging up her stuff at Kit’s Apothecary, and that’s where we met up. I gave her the donuts and cookies, and we walked around, catching up for a little bit. She gave some pointers on what’s good around town, I’m so happy to have tried so many of them!

Serendipity when you’re not even looking

I didn’t have many set plans in Astoria. It seemed more appropriate to wander around the charming down and encounter pleasant surprises along the way. A thick fog blanketed the whole town, casting a spooky aura, just perfect for Halloween.

In the morning, I climbed up the steep hill all the way to the Astoria Column. There’s supposedly a view overlooking the entire town and the sea on clear days. After I had reached the landmark, I found a 1.5-mile hiking trail and made my way back down.

For lunch, a yam and black bean burrito from Blue Scorcher hit the spot. That gave plenty of energy to wander around. While there weren’t any strictly vegan restaurants in town, many places did have at least one vegan option.

A goth traveler’s delight

The whimsical, colorful shops around town offered travel keepsakes, beautiful fancy papers, and handcrafted memorabilia that would make any goth traveler light up. My favorite shops in town are Cargo (imported treasures from around the world), Luminari Arts (unique, quirky local art and jewelry), and Godfather’s Books.

The interior of the Underground.
Kit’s Apothecary isn’t your grandma’s apothecary.

Then there are hidden shops in Astoria’s Underground building, such as Kit’s Apothecary (an apothecary selling CBD hemp products and goods with ubiquitous swear words), Weird Sisters Freak Boutique (offering creative and kooky clothes), and The Secret Gallery.

Mary Alayne Thomas • “The Secret Lives of Foxes” • Watercolor and encaustic

There’s also a growing art scene in Astoria. Brumfield Gallery, showing dark, floral, and surreal artwork, was my favorite.

Get to know the town’s history

The Flavel House Museum

A visit to Astoria isn’t complete without visiting the museums. The Flavel House Museum is a grand late-Victorian home of Captain George Flavel, a prominent bar pilot and businessman, and his family. The Heritage Museum, set in the early 1900s City Hall building, features local history exhibits. Housed in the former county jail, the Oregon Film Museum displays exhibits of films made in the area, notably The Goonies. If you choose to purchase tickets to all three, there’s a discount pass available.

Be sure to check the opening hours, because some have limited seasonal hours. For instance, the Museum of Whimsy closed its doors for the season.

Beautiful architecture throughout the town

‘Til next time, Astoria!

I really enjoyed my time here. It’s a great town to slow down in, so that you can appreciate what’s around you. I only had a day and a half here, and sometimes I wish there was more time. Astoria is only a few hours’ drive from Seattle, so another trip in the future will hopefully happen.