February 2026 — Coming Full Spiral

Month: February 2026

Uncategorized

Cusco, Peru

Cusco, Peru was the historic capital of the great Inca Empire 600 years ago. Known as “Ombligo del Mundo” (navel of the world), it’s the gateway to the iconic Machu Picchu archeological site and the Sacred Valley. It rests at over a 11,000-foot (3,339 meter) elevation in the Andes Mountains. It was even higher than Quito!

Years ago, I was working as a content writer for Google Maps. More specifically, I wrote hotel descriptions for lodging all over the world, even in faraway places like Cusco. I longingly pored over the maps, reading about the sacred Incan sites throughout Cusco and beyond. I studied the layout of the tourist town, Aguas Calientes, the last stop before ascending to Machu Picchu. Finally, I was exactly where I wanted to be.

A little bit on Inca cosmology

Cusco, Peru was the most spiritual place I’ve been to in a long time. Everywhere I went, Incan references to Inti, Pachamama, and the underworld were woven in plain sight, or hidden throughout the city like Easter eggs. For the Incas, the universe was divided in three worlds:

Hanan Pacha (Upper World): The upper world contains the celestial and spiritual realm. It’s represented by the condor.
Kay Pacha (Middle World): The terminal world is filled with living humans, animals, plants, and physical nature. It’s the earthly realm, represented by the puma.
Uku Pacha (Underworld): The underworld symbolizes transformation and hidden life. It’s represented by the serpent.

There isn’t a hierarchy between these three worlds. Rather, they work together in equilibrium, transferring creation and energy in cycles.

In Cusco, Pachamama is known as Mother Earth from the terminal world, offering the sustaining force of life and fertility. As the physical presence, she embodies the mountains, oceans, and land. She generates life to sustain all of us, while working closely with Inti (the sun god in the Upper World) and the underworld. While she gives life and resources, it doesn’t mean we can keep taking from her. Humans also have a reciprocal responsibility of taking care of her and giving back as well. Some Andeans claim that climate change is affecting us all, because we’re disrespecting Pachamama and taking too much from her. Now she’s angry and is punishing the world. They’re not wrong.

¡Rezamos a la Pachamama! (We pray to Pachamama!)

Sacsayhuamán

It is said that Cuzco has the shape of a puma when viewed from above. As I mentioned above, the puma represents the earthly realm of people, life, and everyday action.

The Inca citadel, Sacsayhuamán, forms the head of the puma-shaped city. This defensive stone fortress overlooks the city and provided protection, as well as serving as a religious center for Inca ceremonies. The stone work is a mastery of engineering: the stones were cut and placed so precisely, that not even a blade can pass between them.

For folks who opt out of seeing Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán still shows the incredible stonework of the Incan empire. If you’re visiting Cuzco, definitely visit this important part of the city!

Qorikancha, the sun temple

If Sacsayhuáman is the head of the puma-shaped city, then Qorikancha (Kor-i-can-cha) would be the heart. Once covered in gold, this prominent 15th-century Inca temple was dedicated to the sun god, Inti, in the upper world. It served as a spiritual, astronomical, and political center in Cusco, Peru. There were six temples inside to worship the deities of the celestial bodies, which would provide guidance for agriculture:

Sun: Inti, the central diety, symbolized the divine power of the sun.
Moon: Represents femininity and controls the lunar cycles in agriculture.
Stars: Represents the connection to the cosmos. This temple measured the Summer and Winter solstices as a calendar to plant crops.
Rainbow: Represents the bridge to Pachamama, or earth and agricultural fertility.
Lightning: Offered power and protection, as well as rain and storm cycles. Water is sacred, and without it, there’s no life.
Thunder: Symbolized weather patterns, which are important for crop growth.

When the Spaniard settlers came in the 16th century, they forcibly stripped all of the gold from the temple and destroyed everything except for the original stone foundation. In its place, they built the Santo Domingo covenant, a Catholic place of worship. While they tried to erase the Inca religion, the covenant has suffered earthquakes—revealing the long-standing Incan architecture as its original purpose.

Underground tunnels in Cusco

There’s a web of underground tunnels in Cusco, which used to serve as communication pathways throughout the city. For instance, there’s a main tunnel between Qorikancha and Sacsayhuáman. The tunnels could also have been used to transport sacred objects and resources. If Sacsayhuáman is the head of the puma, and Qorikancha is the heart, then maybe the tunnels could be considered the underbelly. Either way, the underworld symbolism is quite clear.

Rainbows galore

The rainbow flag is the official city flag for Cusco, symbolizing the rich cultural diversity of the region. Incas worship rainbows, the bridge between the earth and the sky. The seven colors in the rainbow flag also symbolize the seven chakras of the body. The Inca also believed that the rainbow impregnated Pachamama. Cusco’s flag can be confused with the Pride flag, although the difference is that the Pride flag has six colors.

The coca leaf

Since Cusco sits at over 11,000 feet, coca leaves were readily available to chew on to relieve altitude sickness. As I mentioned in my Quito blog post, this important plant is considered a sacred medicine, not a drug. It’s similar to caffeine. Coca leaves have 14 alkaloids, some minerals, and antioxidants. They taste similar to yerba mate tea and can be bitter. Some folks chew it with a black substance called llipta, which is made with cacao or ashes with quinoa and mint flavor. The combo creates a chemical effect to get the full effects of the coca leaf. It tastes pretty good!

Coca leaves are also an important part of ceremonies and rituals. When making offerings to the deities, especially to Pachamama, three of the best coca leaves are presented at the alter to pay respects.

Machu Picchu

To get to Machu Picchu, I bought a train ticket in the Inca Rail office. I paid about $160 for a round trip ticket to Aguas Calientes. It was a very last-minute decision, so I had to hurry. First, I had to take a shuttle from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, which cost 10 soles. From there, I got off and ran as fast as I could to the train station. I arrived a few minutes late from the departure time, and fortunately, the train was still there!

Aguas Calientes is a compact tourist town in the Andes, a place to stay for the night before going to Machu Picchu. The Peruvian government doesn’t sell all of their tickets online; they often reserve some tickets at their Ministerio de Cultura office. Since it was the off season, there were more available. I walked over in person and paid $152 for the Route 2 ticket, which is the most popular.

Peru has two seasons: wet and dry. When I went, it was rainier this time of year. Usually the best time to go is April through October.

After spending the night in Aguas Calientes, I hiked up the trail up to Machu Picchu. It took about an hour and a half. Most people took the bus, because it can be a strenuous hike.

The Inca empire built this iconic terraced stone compound 600 years ago. They worshipped Inti (the sun god from the Upper World), the sacred mountains, and other elements woven into Incan cosmology. They did solstice rituals to pay homage to their deities, which in turn served as an agricultural calendar. The stone structures were also set so precisely, as the terraces allowed crops to grow at different elevations. They also tested drainage and soil fertility while protecting the mountain from erosion. It really was a feat of engineering.

Hiking up the mountain among the clouds and then seeing this incredible Incan city below struck me deeply. Whatever issues that I carried before felt insignificant, now that I was standing before this magnificent structure.

I stood at the top, noticing the white fluffy clouds gracing the space between the mountains. It was partly sunny, which I was grateful for, because December is the wet season. Inti graced us with his heavenly presence after all.

Vegan Food in Cusco

My trip in South America was probably the cleanest I’ve eaten in a while. The vegan food in Cusco was my favorite. It turns out that I love Andean food!

It’s super easy to be vegan in Cusco, as quinoa, potatoes, corn, beans, and fresh fruit are ubiquitous. I’ve always loved quinoa, and having this wholesome grain straight from the source just hits different. Somehow, the food tastes better there. It has a fuller body, the flavors have more depth, and it makes me feel better.

Mercado Central de San Pedro is where I frequented almost every day for snacks and food. You’ll find chocolate, coffee, corn, grains, fruit smoothies, restaurants, and gift shops selling artisan-made souvenirs. Some vendors sell chocolate in local flavors, such as the earthy and sweet chicha morada. My favorite place to eat there was Vegan Point, which serves wholesome Peruvian food, such as a brightly flavored salad with fried quinoa balls.

Speaking of which, chicha morada just might be my new favorite drink! It’s is a purple corn drink that’s sweetened with pineapple, and spiced with a pinch of cinnamon and cloves. It can have more or less sugar, depending on preference. The kind I had at a cafe was sweeter than the one from a street vendor selling it in a plastic bag. When I sipped the chicha morada from the plastic bag, it wasn’t sweetened with sugar at all. At least I could know what it actually tastes like.

I mentioned earlier that coca leaves are an integral part of Andean culture, both in rituals and everyday life. Because of this, there are coca leaf-flavored sweets in Cusco. I tried coca leaf candies and a coconut-based ice cream. It blew my mind—I’ve never had a flavor like it! It tastes like a smooth tea-flavored treat, like green matcha or a touch of earl grey. The vegan ice cream was so delicious, I almost wanted another one.

Connecting with the people of Cusco

Another favorite part of visiting Cusco was connecting with the people of Cusco. In my Colombia blog post, I mentioned the Colombians love using their colorful slang. They also speak rather quickly. In Cusco, the people speak Spanish slower and more clearly, which makes it much easier to understand for me. Many also speak Quechua.

When I was eating lunch at Vegan Point, I noticed a white kitten in a makeshift blue shirt. Since I can’t resist a cute kitten, I asked the little girl and her mother if it’s okay to take pics. They said yes, and then it unfolded into a beautiful conversation about why we’re vegan. We agreed that we couldn’t in good conscience eat an animal that doesn’t want to die, and that it one of the worst things for the environment. The little girl saved the kitten from getting swept from the heavy rains a couple months ago. She seemed to be about 5 years old, and already she expressed compassion and curiosity. This kid is going places when she’s older. We took selfies together, a wholesome moment between us.

Final thoughts about Cusco

Cusco was one of my favorite places that I’ve ever visited in the world. What I’ve seen of Peru has been delightful, spiritual, and deep. The concept of Pachamama piqued my interest the most. The reciprocal relationship that we tend to with her especially translates into our existential realm on this earth.

This part of the world is colorful, friendly, and genuine. Many places have been great experiences, but this one was quite special. While there’s more to Peru, I felt right at home in Cusco. I hope that one day I can return to explore more.

Quito, Ecuador

Nestled in a valley in the Andes mountains, Quito, Ecuador is one of the highest capital cities in the world, sitting at a 9,350-foot elevation (2,850 meters). This capital city sits on the equator, the middle of the earth. The original name of the city is Quitu, which is Quechua for “center of the earth.” The Spanish couldn’t pronounce it so they called it Quito, and the name stuck.

When I first came to Ecuador and got cash, I was surprised to find a familiar currency: U.S. dollars!

To start, it’s worth noting that Ecuador has been in deep economic insecurity since the 1990s. Back then, it was the perfect storm: oil prices fell, there was political instability, and banking regulations were weak. Ecuador’s national currency, the sucre, collapsed as inflation soared and people lost all of their savings. Since the sucre was beyond saving, Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar because it was the fastest way to restore stability. But in turn, it gave up its monetary independence, and it’s at the mercy of U.S. market sways. People are trying to survive, with unemployment rate being 37%.

Safety in Quito

While Quito has a lot to offer, the city can be a little rough around the edges in some parts. There are petty thefts and sometimes robberies. I wouldn’t go more than a few blocks without taking an Uber, because the rides are tracked and are considered much safer. For instance, I walked 2 km to La Mariscal Artisan Market from my hostel. As I walked through a park, there was a masked man hiding behind a tree, looking right at me! I immediately switched paths and walked faster. After perusing the market, I took an Uber back to my hostel.

Anyway, it’s best to keep your wits about you and use common sense as always. Don’t flash your valuables, avoid wandering around alone at night, and don’t take anything from strangers. Things I wouldn’t even do in the U.S.

Quito is breathtaking—literally!

Since Quito sits at over 9,000 feet, I definitely felt the elevation! After my first night, I woke up with a headache and my heart was pounding. It felt harder to breathe. Chewing on coca leaves helped alleviate the altitude sickness. They taste like yerba mate and green tea. Coca leaves are what cocaine comes from, but this plant isn’t a drug; it’s medicine. It doesn’t get you high. Instead, this mild stimulant works by dilating the blood vessels to let more oxygen pass through like caffeine does. You can make a tea, but I preferred to chew on them to get a fuller effect. The headaches cleared away like clouds parting to let the sun through.

Aya Huma

The Inca Empire spread its influence throughout the Andes mountains. In Ecuador, Aya Huma reins supreme. Literally meaning “head of spirit,” it’s the vital guiding life force present in rituals, resistance, and warfare. When the Spaniards came, they denounced these celebrations as Satanic, calling them “diablo uma” (head of the devil). Today, crocheted rainbow masks appear everywhere in Quito. The mask has two faces to represent the dualities of life: light and dark, sun and moon, masculine and feminine, hot and cold, good and bad, etc. The masks are rainbow-colored, because mixing light and water makes rainbows. Rainbows symbolize circle of life, which is why Andean clothes are colorful.

The summer solstice is when people celebrate Inti Raimy (festival of the sun), where Aya Huma lays a homage to the sun god (Inti Raymi) for the maize harvest. People may have ritual baths in waterfalls, rivers and springs at midnight, aiming to drive out negativity and welcome in new energy for the coming year.

Exploring Quito

I highly recommend taking a walking tour to get to know Quito and its gems. Some of them are free, although a tip is expected at the end. It’s truly worth it.

Basílica del Voto Nacional

Starting with the Quito’s crown jewel, Basílica del Voto Nacional is an ornate 19th-century neo-gothic Catholic cathedral. Inspired by the Notre Dame in Paris, you can’t miss this Catholic temple among the hills.

Upon closer inspection, instead of stone gargoyles, you’ll find the big contenders of the Amazon rainforest: jaguars, iguanas, tortoises, condors, monkeys, and more. The Basilica is a tribute to Ecuador’s biodiversity, bridging the gap between nature and faith.

The Basilica is perpetually unfinished for two reasons. First, if it’s finished, taxes must be paid to the government. That’s why you’ll see unfinished buildings around Quito: it’s a loophole to avoid paying taxes. Second, if the cathedral is finished, many believe that’s when Armageddon starts. The inhabitants would like to avoid that as well.

I didn’t go inside, but apparently you can go into the highest tower and feel the wind as you climb further up. Just don’t look down. 😉

Plaza Grande

Plaza Grande, literally meaning “big square,” is the city’s most popular meeting spot. It includes the colonial-style Presidential Palace, the metropolitan cathedral, and the City Hall. People gather at this spot to eat, gossip, share news, sell their wares, and just hang out. Ladies would sell fruit for a dollar. I stocked up on pitaya and mangos for the week.

La Mariscal Artisan Market

One thing I love to do is meandering through artisan markets and finding culturally-specific pieces you won’t find anywhere else. La Mariscal Artisan Market has rows and rows of vendors selling wares, like hand-painted crucifixes, intricate indigenous beaded jewelry, chocolate straight from the source, and colorful woven fabric. I often collect magnets, so I got a little Aya Huma magnet.

TelefériQo Cable Car

For some local hiking and sweeping city views, the TelefériQo Cable Car can carry you over the green hills and farms to even higher ground. The top sits 4,000 feet above Quito, which made the elevation over 13,000 feet! I was hiking among the clouds amid the surrounding beauty, overlooking the city below. Although the thinner air made me breathe harder, I wouldn’t say the hike was too difficult.

The sun was setting behind the clouds, emitting golden god-like rays to the city below. I kept walking on the dirt trail through the dense clouds, passing a small basic restaurant and a horse stall. The journey took about an hour and a half. Eventually, I passed a modern-looking church, which was near the end of my little hike at the top of the hills.

It was getting dark, so I went back to the cable car station to go back. Descending over the shadows towards the glittering city was the perfect way to end a day of exploring.

Vegan food in Quito

Like in Medellín, vegan options are plentiful in Quito. Most of my vegan meals consisted of fruits, veggies, and seeds. I did visit a couple of vegan places.

Vegano de Altura was not to be missed, especially since they offered a 7-course Saturday brunch for only $14. The plates included a small bowl of granola with fresh fruit, bean-based ceviche with plantain chips, an arepa with a pickled side, and a slice of apple pie to finish it off.

Just a block away from my hostel, Coffee Romance offered the best arepa I ever had in South America. The owner of the restaurant is Venezuelan, which is where the arepa comes from. (Colombia claims this, too.) This corn-based treat was stuffed with seasoned black beans, fried plantains, and buttery sliced avocados. Not only was this arepa bursting with flavor, the protein, fat, and complex carbs were also grounding for my mind and body. The owner was easy to talk to, and he clearly took pride in the food he has to offer.

Cotopaxi Mountain

I took a group tour to Cotopaxi Mountain, the second highest active volcano in Ecuador. In the Quechua language, “coto” means “neck,” and “paxi” means “moon,” since the crater at the top looks like a crescent moon. The Andean people worshiped the sacred mountain, believing the gods would bless them with rain, which would provide fertility to the land.

Hiking among the clouds to basecamp, where the mountain touches the sky.

Remember when I mentioned that Quito’s elevation is over 9,000 feet, and that the cable car takes you past 13,000 feet? Cotopaxi is even higher. The group and I set out for a hike from the bottom of the volcano to the base camp. Then I ventured a little further to 16,000 feet (4,900 meters), where the snow starts. That’s 2,000 feet higher than Mt. Rainier in Washington State! As hikers, we couldn’t summit the mountain. That requires special training and climbing gear for the hardcore mountain climber.

Here I am, standing at 16,031 feet (4,999 meters). That’s as far as I could go.

Bringing the coca leaves was a must, because my head was absolutely swimming and my hands tingled as I gasped for air. I thought about going further to 5,000 meters. Another guide said it would take another half an hour to get to that altitude. I wanted to keep going. But my body wasn’t having it, declaring that 4,999 meters was enough. And honestly, that was the right call.

Then we went down to the utilitarian base camp to have a snack and a drink. It was bare-bones yet quaint, a convivial meeting place to swap travel stories before going back.

If you’re in Quito, definitely try to get to Cotopaxi! That might have been the highlight of my trip to Ecuador.

Mitad del Mundo

Since Ecuador sits at the equator, I decided to check out Mitad del Mundo. In case you wanted to know what the equator looks like, it’s a big red line running across. The line is marked as accurately as possible by GPS. The museum, Intiñan Equator Museum, is an interactive site offering immersive science experiments, pre-colonial and indigenous exhibits, and a demo on how chocolate is made from the cacao plant. One of the indigenous exhibits even features a real shrunken head! A shrunken head was considered a war trophy back then. It’s made from the head of a captured enemy and boiled to shrink it. Then a stone is placed inside before it’s sewn shut.

The immersive science experiment shows the Coriolis effect, such as watching water drain clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on where it stands on either side of the equator. You could even balance an egg on the equator itself. The Coriolis Effect influences everything that moves on the face of the earth. As the earth rotates, it pushes any fluid, mass, or particles towards the poles. The magnitude of this effect is proportional to the speed of the fluid, or the swirl that the Earth’s rotation creates. So, a fluid in motion will turn counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere, and clockwise in the southern hemisphere. A good example of this is seeing how a toilet flushes. At the equator, the Coriolis effect is cancelled and water falls straight down the drain. (As an aside, this is why hurricanes don’t go to the equator.)

Notice how the water drains clockwise, pulling the leaves with it.

At Intiñan Equator Museum, our guide filled a sink with water, put it on the north end of the red line, and drained it. We watched the leaves swirl in a counterclockwise direction as the water drained into a bucket below. On the south end of the red line, the water flowed clockwise.

While it was cool, I question the validity of the experiments. First of all, with enough patience, you can balance an egg anywhere in the world. Also, I would think that moving the water just a few meters from the red line wouldn’t make much of a difference, if this effect gradually gets stronger towards the poles of the earth. But I don’t know how the museum would stage this, since it was just a bare-bones sink with a bucket underneath. It’s still cool though. Maybe kids would like this more.

Final thoughts about Quito

While I liked Quito, Ecuador is better known for its nature and biodiversity, whether you want to check out the hiking trails at the top of the hills or visit Cotopaxi Mountain. If I were to go back, I’d check out a chocolate farm next time or even visit the Galapagos Islands. The entire country is beautiful beyond the city. Nonetheless, I still enjoyed my visit in Quito and now I know what I can do next time!

A large Jesus statue stands in front of Medellín.

Medellín, Colombia

A small bag of coffee is placed with a small Colombian flag and currency, plus a passport entry stamp.

Once known as the epicenter of the narcotic drug trade, Medellín, Colombia has slowly been healing from the 50-year armed conflict that ended in 2016. While the memories of the violence have certainly permeated the city, Medellín offers so much more amid its lush surroundings: good coffee, emotive street art, delicious vegan food, and more.

Safety and Getting Around in Medellín

An enormous statue of Jesus is draped with colors of the Colombian flag with the city in the background.

Once known as one of the most dangerous cities in the world, Medellín has turned itself around and has become much safer. Not only has it emerged from its violent past, it has gathered that pain and suffering, and turned it into something beautiful. That being said, it’s still important to stay aware and keep your wits with you.

There’s a saying in Colombia: dar papaya, which literally means “giving papaya.” It means when someone naïvely makes themselves an easy target, such as carelessly flashing their valuables (like their newest iPhone). Since petty thefts are still common, someone might snatch it out of their hands or even violently rob them for it. As long as you keep your belongings hidden, you put yourself less as risk.

I stayed in Rango Hostel in El Poblado, which is one of the safest parts of Medellín. Women were running solo in broad daylight with headphones, which is a good sign. While it’s a busy neighborhood, I felt at ease. The tranquil Laureles neighborhood is also another good option to stay in; that part of the city is more residential.

Ronnie rides on a motorcycle in Medellín traffic. — I could do this all day!

As a solo woman traveler, I used Uber since the app tracks the location of the rides. Opting for a motorcycle or scooter is much cheaper and tons of fun! I loved feeling the summer air whipping on my skin as the driver zipped through the chaotic traffic. I could do that all day!

Generally, as long as you’re staying away from narco and sex tourism, you’ll be much safer in Medellín. Just don’t engage in either.

Vegan Food in Medellín

From bustling fruit markets to healthy vegan restaurants, there’s no shortage of food for vegans in Medellín. El Poblado has the most vegan restaurants in the city, which is another reason why I stayed there. There are others throughout as well. It was a vegan food heaven!

Plaza Minorista José María Villa

Mangos, plums, and apples from La Minorista fruit market. — The freshest and juiciest fruits.

Because Colombia is in a tropical climate, there’s no shortage of the juiciest, most succulent fruits and veggies in the world. If you want to try exotic fruit and veggies that you may not find anywhere else in the world, Plaza Minorista José María Villa is the place to go. Fresh fruit is cheap and plentiful here. There was pitaya (fruit that looks like a magenta dragon egg), avocados the size of mangos, and mangos nearly the size of a football!

Corn arepa with smashed avocado and seeds.

I bought enough avocados, mangos, plums, and pitaya to have as breakfast throughout my stay in Medellín. I also got some arepas de choclo, or corn cakes. The dense arepas were perfect to spread avocados on and sprinkle with pumpkin and sunflower seeds.

Coraje Vegan

A kale salad is topped with plant-based protein, tomatoes, pickled beets, crushed seeds, avocado, and dressing. — La ensalada proteíca from Coraje Vegan

El Poblado has the most vegan restaurants in Medellín, hence why I stayed there. I didn’t go out to eat that often, because the fruit markets truly satiated me. Still, the city has so many wonderful vegan restaurants to offer, serving healthy Colombian food bursting with mind-blowing flavor.

Coraje Vegan is an eco-chic vegan eatery that serves healthy vegan food. I had the Ensalada Proteíca, a protein-packed salad topped with grilled tofu, sauteed mushrooms, lentils, cherry tomatoes, picked vegetables, avocado, and mixed seeds. The protein kept me full for longer sustained energy. This flavorful dish truly fueled me so that I could explore the city longer.

Restaurante Las Veganas

Seitan with sliced avocado, pickled veggies, and potatoes. — The best vegan Colombian food.

In the tranquil, leafy neighborhood of Laureles, Restaurante Las Veganas is a laid-back restaurant serves traditional vegan Colombian food. The plate I had was filled with protein-packed seitan, potatoes, a small salad, picked veggies, and slices of avocado. It was the perfect lunch to reenergize me on a sunny day.

Las Veganas also has a small shop stocked with coconut oil, sauces, protein powders, dairy-free cheeses, kombucha, coffee, and more. So, you can take a small taste of Colombia with you.

What I Did Around Medellín

A mural shows different layers of a woman's side portrait.

Since I only stayed for a few days, I did as much as I possibly could to enjoy this city and what it has to offer. I spent much of my visit learning about the intense history of Medellín, the multi-layered 50-year armed conflict centered around narcotic trafficking, colonialism, fighting over resources, and more. As I mentioned before, Medellín has emerged to take back its collective identity. Here’s what I did to enjoy what Colombia has to offer.

Learning Colombian Slang

Cards show examples of Colombian slang as part of a drinking game. — Some Colombian slang.

My Spanish has gotten pretty decent over the years. I can hold a full conversation for hours! But I only know standard Spanish, and not much slang. Colombians heavily use their local jargon, and it’s an integral part of their Spanish. Sometimes I try to listen to what people are saying, and it’s hard to recognize any of the words. To be truly fluent in another language is to know their slang well.

It’s important to note some words may have different meanings, depending on the country. Others are considered safe to use in one country, but are offensive in others. Most importantly, each country has its own slang; some of it is even city-specific.

Rango Hostel (where I stayed) offers a word drinking game involving the local slang. (I just had seltzer water.) It informative, hilarious, and even kind of offensive at times. For instance, Colombians throw around the word marica like it’s nothing. In this case, it means “dude” in a friendly manner. However, in other Spanish-speaking countries, it means “faggot” and is considered extremely offensive!

Other words include:

Tinto: Black coffee without cream or sugar. (I saw this a lot at cafes.)
Llave: Literally means “key.” In this case, it means “best friend.”
Parcero: A close friend.
Buenas: A greeting, kind of like saying “good afternoon” or “good evening.”
Chao: Bye.
Que video: An interjection of shock when you hear bad news, as if it only happens in a movie.
Güevon: It means “dude” or “friend,” but is considered a playful insult. Only use with close friends.
Ese Pirobo: “This fucking guy!”

As you can see, Colombians love using colorful language, and are delighted to rib and provoke even their closest friends. Personally, I prefer using standard Spanish, unless I am 100% comfortable using Colombian slang in the right contexts. One day, I might accidentally offend someone, and they might not want me to come back. Then again, practice makes perfect!

Strolling through Pueblito Paisa

The courtyard of Pueblito Paisa has a garden and a white church. — Pueblito Paisa is an Antioquian replica.

Set on top of the lush Nutibara Hill, Pueblito Paisa is a charming replica of a traditional 20th-century Antioquian village. A prominent church graces the main plaza, with gardens and a large fountain as the centerpiece. It’s a great spot to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Amid the cobblestone walkways, this magical place has a town hall, a barber shop, snack shops, gift shops selling colorful handicrafts, and even a museum showcasing the musical influences of Colombia.

The restaurants and snack shops don’t offer much vegan food from what I could tell, but I was able to find a refreshing fruit smoothie without milk. You might spend a lot of time in this magical place, so definitely bring some snacks!

Ronnie stands on the cobblestone in front of the church at El Pueblito Paiso.

I spent about an hour in the Museo de la Ciudad at Pueblito Paisa. This museum showcases the history of Medellín. However, this exhibit focused on the musical history of the 20th century to the present: reggaeton, cumbia, rap, rock ‘n’ roll, and even punk. Most of the signs are in Spanish, but some are in English. I read twice as slow in Spanish, so I spent more time getting to know how music influenced Colombian society.

Making feline friends at La Gatoría

A white cat stands on a table in front of a pink neon sign that says, "Te mereces unos ronroneazos en el corazón." — “You deserve some purrs in your heart.”

Housed in a Spanish-style home, La Gatoría is a warm cat cafe in the leafy Laureles neighborhood. It offers some vegan plates to enjoy amid the adorable resident and adoptable cats.

Ronnie holds a 6-week old with a wide-eyed expression, while an adult cat looks on in the background. — Don’t mind me—just enjoying the kitty love here.

These kitties are lovely, funny, and a tad mischievous. The matriarch cat ensured that everyone knew that she’s the boss. A black-and-white cat climbed up the Christmas tree and overlooked the whole establishment on his evergreen perch. The staff even brought out 6-week old kittens! They were so cute and tiny, it was almost unbearable. I loved the little tortoiseshell kitten. She was bright and curious about the world, although the matriarch cat put her in her place.

A cat stands on top of a fake Christmas tree. — Why are they like this?

You need to make a reservation before arriving. You also need to pay a deposit with the reservation, kind of like an admission fee. The deposit is included in the final bill.

Final Thoughts About Medellín

A large sculpture that says "Medellin" stands in front of a garden and a colorful mural of a woman surrounded by nature.

I loved Medellín. It really has come a long way from its violent past and turned its pain into gold. The people were friendly, kind, and excited to share their culture. The food was incredible, and the sights were something to behold. I enjoyed immersing myself in slang word games and then seeing those words on the streets. The next time someone is worried about how Medellín might be dangerous, share this blog post and show them that it’s a colorful, vibrant place that deserves recognition.

A portrait of two women looking in the opposite directions, depicting Colombia's past to the present.

Violence and Healing in Medellín, Colombia

Once again, it was time to visit South America. To start, I was in Medellín, Colombia to utilize Spanish, explore the city, and learn its intense history. When people hear about Colombia, their first thoughts might be about the drugs. They may also think of fresh tropical fruit, cumbia music, and coffee farms on lush green hillsides. If you’re going to visit this city, the history and the recent violent 50-year armed conflict cannot be ignored.

Previously known as the epicenter of the narcotic drug trade, Medellín has been slowly emerging and healing from this recent violence. There are so many interconnecting parts: from the beginnings of colonization and the displacement of the indigenous inhabitants, to the farmers banding together to fight for their land (and their lives). These cumulating events have eventually led to what has happened in the recent decades. Many innocent civilians have also died in the crossfires.

Comuna 13

Rather than neighborhoods, Medellín is split up into communes called “comunas.” One day, I took a tour to learn about the violence that happened in Comuna 13.

Set against high and steep slopes, Comuna 13 is a neighborhood made of makeshift homes with corrugated metal roofs. Farmers fled violence from rural areas and founded this part of Medellín. Leading to the sea and the mountains, this comuna was like a portal for smuggling cocaine and weapons. Slowly, it slipped into a neighborhood that was rife with drug trafficking, paramilitary operations, and rival gangs.

For 10 years, the radical leftist group, FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia: an armed guerrilla paramilitary formed by farmers and peasants), took the power of this community. The rivaling paramilitaries were placed by the Colombian government in order to get rid of them. Eventually, they swapped powers.

A soccer court in Comune 13. — This soccer court is where public executions happened. Now kids play here.

This power swap was practically an invasion that displaced the residents, who also escaped the same radical leftist groups. During that time, there were no police stations or any city protection; it was completely out of control. In Comuna 13, there was an initiative to shoot anyone who may be suspected to be a part of the guerilla. It was like a witch hunt. The government at the time wanted results. So, innocent civilians would get kidnapped on the promise of jobs in the fields.

With help from the U.S. government, Colombia’s Operation Orion aimed to do away with the paramilitary groups. In this operation, over a thousand military troops, two helicopters, and a tank were deployed in an attempt to crush the guerilla groups. But it was a controversial mission, because many witnesses claimed that the governments disappeared innocent civilians. While it was a successful operation that drove away the paramilitaries, the community still remembers the controversy. Even the international courts condemned it.

Eventually, there was a peace agreement to coexist: a ceasefire between guerillas and the paramilitary, as long as they stop killing people. FARC was officially disbanded in 2016. These days, there are sub groups of the FARC, but they don’t have enough people keep mobilizing it. So, they retreated into the background.

The Aftermath  : How a Community Heals

Colorful murals depict Colombia's struggles, from the past to the present. — Murals in Comuna 13.

The violence was deeply traumatic and is of course a heavy subject to this day. As the city heals, artists have gathered to tell their communities’ stories through creative endeavors, such as murals in Comuna 13. Many victims turn to art and music as a way to denounce the violence, challenge ideas, and speak to the viewer when words aren’t enough. Storytelling and expression help bring communities together, so they can rebuild better.

A cable car moves over trees with the city in the background. — A cable car system helps bridge some of the neighborhoods together, which were once isolated by the hilly landscape.

These days, Comuna 13 is a hopping tourist destination—a living, breathing community exploding with creativity in the form of powerful murals, expressive rap and cumbia verses, enticing Colombian cuisine, and more. Steep stairs zigzag into switchbacks as you go higher and higher, overlooking glittering Medellín at night.

Lit buildings in Medellín glow in the evening.

Museo Casa de la Memoria: Remembering the Victims

The 50-year armed conflict in Colombia ended in 2016, which isn’t that long ago in the country’s history. For most people, the memories and trauma of the violence are still fresh. Millions of innocent people have been displaced from their homes, and hundreds of thousands have been killed. We still don’t know the true toll of the multi-faceted armed conflict, whether it’s from narco trafficking, colonialism, fighting over resources, and more.

Quotes in Spanish, as told by children. — “Spirit: What is needed to survive the violence. Life: Love, peace, and sadness.” Children tell it like it is.

  This museum, Museo Casa de la Memoria, is dedicated to the victims of the conflict. Here, they use their voice and share their stories, because being heard helps them heal from this trauma. Like Comuna 13, it’s a meeting place for victims to come and heal together. It’s a lot of reading in this museum, so take your time and get to know their stories and history. 

Also, you’re going to visit Medellín, please do not go to the Pablo Escobar museum. That man has caused so much suffering to the point where many Colombians don’t even want to hear his name. We don’t need to glorify him. Out of respect, go to Museo Casa de la Memoria instead. The victims of his narco regime deserve to be acknowledged.   The words on the bottom of the mural say, “Their name calls us together; their memory blooms on the walls.”

The Search Unit for Missing Persons

Starting in 2024, La Unidad de Búsqueda de Personas dadas por Desaparecidas (UBPD; The Search Unit for Missing Persons), a forensic laboratory near Comuna 13, recovers the bodies of the disappeared victims and identifies them. Identifying the missing loved ones brings back dignity to them and helps families know what happened, so that they can have closure. Since 2025, they’ve recovered 96 bodies. Of course, that’s a fraction of the tens of thousands more that are missing.

Final Thoughts

A building with a colorful Comuna 13 sign against the backdrop of the city.

My visit to Medellín was more focused on learning about the history. Sure, there was a lot of fresh fruit to satisfy my vegan cravings, and Colombia produces some of the best coffee in the world. (Stay tuned for what I also enjoyed!) But the reminders of the 50-year civil war were everywhere. Like I mentioned before, we’re still finding out the true toll of the violence. It may take many more decades. It was heavy and tragic, yet the stories of the survivors were inspiring and hopeful as they heal to build stronger communities together.