World Travel Travel Experiences — Coming Full Spiral

Category: World Travel

Quito, Ecuador

Nestled in a valley in the Andes mountains, Quito, Ecuador is one of the highest capital cities in the world, sitting at a 9,350-foot elevation (2,850 meters). This capital city sits on the equator, the middle of the earth. The original name of the city is Quitu, which is Quechua for “center of the earth.” The Spanish couldn’t pronounce it so they called it Quito, and the name stuck.

When I first came to Ecuador and got cash, I was surprised to find a familiar currency: U.S. dollars!

To start, it’s worth noting that Ecuador has been in deep economic insecurity since the 1990s. Back then, it was the perfect storm: oil prices fell, there was political instability, and banking regulations were weak. Ecuador’s national currency, the sucre, collapsed as inflation soared and people lost all of their savings. Since the sucre was beyond saving, Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar because it was the fastest way to restore stability. But in turn, it gave up its monetary independence, and it’s at the mercy of U.S. market sways. People are trying to survive, with unemployment rate being 37%.

Safety in Quito

While Quito has a lot to offer, the city can be a little rough around the edges in some parts. There are petty thefts and sometimes robberies. I wouldn’t go more than a few blocks without taking an Uber, because the rides are tracked and are considered much safer. For instance, I walked 2 km to La Mariscal Artisan Market from my hostel. As I walked through a park, there was a masked man hiding behind a tree, looking right at me! I immediately switched paths and walked faster. After perusing the market, I took an Uber back to my hostel.

Anyway, it’s best to keep your wits about you and use common sense as always. Don’t flash your valuables, avoid wandering around alone at night, and don’t take anything from strangers. Things I wouldn’t even do in the U.S.

Quito is breathtaking—literally!

Since Quito sits at over 9,000 feet, I definitely felt the elevation! After my first night, I woke up with a headache and my heart was pounding. It felt harder to breathe. Chewing on coca leaves helped alleviate the altitude sickness. They taste like yerba mate and green tea. Coca leaves are what cocaine comes from, but this plant isn’t a drug; it’s medicine. It doesn’t get you high. Instead, this mild stimulant works by dilating the blood vessels to let more oxygen pass through like caffeine does. You can make a tea, but I preferred to chew on them to get a fuller effect. The headaches cleared away like clouds parting to let the sun through.

Aya Huma

The Inca Empire spread its influence throughout the Andes mountains. In Ecuador, Aya Huma reins supreme. Literally meaning “head of spirit,” it’s the vital guiding life force present in rituals, resistance, and warfare. When the Spaniards came, they denounced these celebrations as Satanic, calling them “diablo uma” (head of the devil). Today, crocheted rainbow masks appear everywhere in Quito. The mask has two faces to represent the dualities of life: light and dark, sun and moon, masculine and feminine, hot and cold, good and bad, etc. The masks are rainbow-colored, because mixing light and water makes rainbows. Rainbows symbolize circle of life, which is why Andean clothes are colorful.

The summer solstice is when people celebrate Inti Raimy (festival of the sun), where Aya Huma lays a homage to the sun god (Inti Raymi) for the maize harvest. People may have ritual baths in waterfalls, rivers and springs at midnight, aiming to drive out negativity and welcome in new energy for the coming year.

Exploring Quito

I highly recommend taking a walking tour to get to know Quito and its gems. Some of them are free, although a tip is expected at the end. It’s truly worth it.

Basílica del Voto Nacional

Starting with the Quito’s crown jewel, Basílica del Voto Nacional is an ornate 19th-century neo-gothic Catholic cathedral. Inspired by the Notre Dame in Paris, you can’t miss this Catholic temple among the hills.

Upon closer inspection, instead of stone gargoyles, you’ll find the big contenders of the Amazon rainforest: jaguars, iguanas, tortoises, condors, monkeys, and more. The Basilica is a tribute to Ecuador’s biodiversity, bridging the gap between nature and faith.

The Basilica is perpetually unfinished for two reasons. First, if it’s finished, taxes must be paid to the government. That’s why you’ll see unfinished buildings around Quito: it’s a loophole to avoid paying taxes. Second, if the cathedral is finished, many believe that’s when Armageddon starts. The inhabitants would like to avoid that as well.

I didn’t go inside, but apparently you can go into the highest tower and feel the wind as you climb further up. Just don’t look down. 😉

Plaza Grande

Plaza Grande, literally meaning “big square,” is the city’s most popular meeting spot. It includes the colonial-style Presidential Palace, the metropolitan cathedral, and the City Hall. People gather at this spot to eat, gossip, share news, sell their wares, and just hang out. Ladies would sell fruit for a dollar. I stocked up on pitaya and mangos for the week.

La Mariscal Artisan Market

One thing I love to do is meandering through artisan markets and finding culturally-specific pieces you won’t find anywhere else. La Mariscal Artisan Market has rows and rows of vendors selling wares, like hand-painted crucifixes, intricate indigenous beaded jewelry, chocolate straight from the source, and colorful woven fabric. I often collect magnets, so I got a little Aya Huma magnet.

TelefériQo Cable Car

For some local hiking and sweeping city views, the TelefériQo Cable Car can carry you over the green hills and farms to even higher ground. The top sits 4,000 feet above Quito, which made the elevation over 13,000 feet! I was hiking among the clouds amid the surrounding beauty, overlooking the city below. Although the thinner air made me breathe harder, I wouldn’t say the hike was too difficult.

The sun was setting behind the clouds, emitting golden god-like rays to the city below. I kept walking on the dirt trail through the dense clouds, passing a small basic restaurant and a horse stall. The journey took about an hour and a half. Eventually, I passed a modern-looking church, which was near the end of my little hike at the top of the hills.

It was getting dark, so I went back to the cable car station to go back. Descending over the shadows towards the glittering city was the perfect way to end a day of exploring.

Vegan food in Quito

Like in Medellín, vegan options are plentiful in Quito. Most of my vegan meals consisted of fruits, veggies, and seeds. I did visit a couple of vegan places.

Vegano de Altura was not to be missed, especially since they offered a 7-course Saturday brunch for only $14. The plates included a small bowl of granola with fresh fruit, bean-based ceviche with plantain chips, an arepa with a pickled side, and a slice of apple pie to finish it off.

Just a block away from my hostel, Coffee Romance offered the best arepa I ever had in South America. The owner of the restaurant is Venezuelan, which is where the arepa comes from. (Colombia claims this, too.) This corn-based treat was stuffed with seasoned black beans, fried plantains, and buttery sliced avocados. Not only was this arepa bursting with flavor, the protein, fat, and complex carbs were also grounding for my mind and body. The owner was easy to talk to, and he clearly took pride in the food he has to offer.

Cotopaxi Mountain

I took a group tour to Cotopaxi Mountain, the second highest active volcano in Ecuador. In the Quechua language, “coto” means “neck,” and “paxi” means “moon,” since the crater at the top looks like a crescent moon. The Andean people worshiped the sacred mountain, believing the gods would bless them with rain, which would provide fertility to the land.

Hiking among the clouds to basecamp, where the mountain touches the sky.

Remember when I mentioned that Quito’s elevation is over 9,000 feet, and that the cable car takes you past 13,000 feet? Cotopaxi is even higher. The group and I set out for a hike from the bottom of the volcano to the base camp. Then I ventured a little further to 16,000 feet (4,900 meters), where the snow starts. That’s 2,000 feet higher than Mt. Rainier in Washington State! As hikers, we couldn’t summit the mountain. That requires special training and climbing gear for the hardcore mountain climber.

Here I am, standing at 16,031 feet (4,999 meters). That’s as far as I could go.

Bringing the coca leaves was a must, because my head was absolutely swimming and my hands tingled as I gasped for air. I thought about going further to 5,000 meters. Another guide said it would take another half an hour to get to that altitude. I wanted to keep going. But my body wasn’t having it, declaring that 4,999 meters was enough. And honestly, that was the right call.

Then we went down to the utilitarian base camp to have a snack and a drink. It was bare-bones yet quaint, a convivial meeting place to swap travel stories before going back.

If you’re in Quito, definitely try to get to Cotopaxi! That might have been the highlight of my trip to Ecuador.

Mitad del Mundo

Since Ecuador sits at the equator, I decided to check out Mitad del Mundo. In case you wanted to know what the equator looks like, it’s a big red line running across. The line is marked as accurately as possible by GPS. The museum, Intiñan Equator Museum, is an interactive site offering immersive science experiments, pre-colonial and indigenous exhibits, and a demo on how chocolate is made from the cacao plant. One of the indigenous exhibits even features a real shrunken head! A shrunken head was considered a war trophy back then. It’s made from the head of a captured enemy and boiled to shrink it. Then a stone is placed inside before it’s sewn shut.

The immersive science experiment shows the Coriolis effect, such as watching water drain clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on where it stands on either side of the equator. You could even balance an egg on the equator itself. The Coriolis Effect influences everything that moves on the face of the earth. As the earth rotates, it pushes any fluid, mass, or particles towards the poles. The magnitude of this effect is proportional to the speed of the fluid, or the swirl that the Earth’s rotation creates. So, a fluid in motion will turn counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere, and clockwise in the southern hemisphere. A good example of this is seeing how a toilet flushes. At the equator, the Coriolis effect is cancelled and water falls straight down the drain. (As an aside, this is why hurricanes don’t go to the equator.)

Notice how the water drains clockwise, pulling the leaves with it.

At Intiñan Equator Museum, our guide filled a sink with water, put it on the north end of the red line, and drained it. We watched the leaves swirl in a counterclockwise direction as the water drained into a bucket below. On the south end of the red line, the water flowed clockwise.

While it was cool, I question the validity of the experiments. First of all, with enough patience, you can balance an egg anywhere in the world. Also, I would think that moving the water just a few meters from the red line wouldn’t make much of a difference, if this effect gradually gets stronger towards the poles of the earth. But I don’t know how the museum would stage this, since it was just a bare-bones sink with a bucket underneath. It’s still cool though. Maybe kids would like this more.

Final thoughts about Quito

While I liked Quito, Ecuador is better known for its nature and biodiversity, whether you want to check out the hiking trails at the top of the hills or visit Cotopaxi Mountain. If I were to go back, I’d check out a chocolate farm next time or even visit the Galapagos Islands. The entire country is beautiful beyond the city. Nonetheless, I still enjoyed my visit in Quito and now I know what I can do next time!

A large Jesus statue stands in front of Medellín.

Medellín, Colombia

A small bag of coffee is placed with a small Colombian flag and currency, plus a passport entry stamp.

Once known as the epicenter of the narcotic drug trade, Medellín, Colombia has slowly been healing from the 50-year armed conflict that ended in 2016. While the memories of the violence have certainly permeated the city, Medellín offers so much more amid its lush surroundings: good coffee, emotive street art, delicious vegan food, and more.

Safety and Getting Around in Medellín

An enormous statue of Jesus is draped with colors of the Colombian flag with the city in the background.

Once known as one of the most dangerous cities in the world, Medellín has turned itself around and has become much safer. Not only has it emerged from its violent past, it has gathered that pain and suffering, and turned it into something beautiful. That being said, it’s still important to stay aware and keep your wits with you.

There’s a saying in Colombia: dar papaya, which literally means “giving papaya.” It means when someone naïvely makes themselves an easy target, such as carelessly flashing their valuables (like their newest iPhone). Since petty thefts are still common, someone might snatch it out of their hands or even violently rob them for it. As long as you keep your belongings hidden, you put yourself less as risk.

I stayed in Rango Hostel in El Poblado, which is one of the safest parts of Medellín. Women were running solo in broad daylight with headphones, which is a good sign. While it’s a busy neighborhood, I felt at ease. The tranquil Laureles neighborhood is also another good option to stay in; that part of the city is more residential.

Ronnie rides on a motorcycle in Medellín traffic. — I could do this all day!

As a solo woman traveler, I used Uber since the app tracks the location of the rides. Opting for a motorcycle or scooter is much cheaper and tons of fun! I loved feeling the summer air whipping on my skin as the driver zipped through the chaotic traffic. I could do that all day!

Generally, as long as you’re staying away from narco and sex tourism, you’ll be much safer in Medellín. Just don’t engage in either.

Vegan Food in Medellín

From bustling fruit markets to healthy vegan restaurants, there’s no shortage of food for vegans in Medellín. El Poblado has the most vegan restaurants in the city, which is another reason why I stayed there. There are others throughout as well. It was a vegan food heaven!

Plaza Minorista José María Villa

Mangos, plums, and apples from La Minorista fruit market. — The freshest and juiciest fruits.

Because Colombia is in a tropical climate, there’s no shortage of the juiciest, most succulent fruits and veggies in the world. If you want to try exotic fruit and veggies that you may not find anywhere else in the world, Plaza Minorista José María Villa is the place to go. Fresh fruit is cheap and plentiful here. There was pitaya (fruit that looks like a magenta dragon egg), avocados the size of mangos, and mangos nearly the size of a football!

Corn arepa with smashed avocado and seeds.

I bought enough avocados, mangos, plums, and pitaya to have as breakfast throughout my stay in Medellín. I also got some arepas de choclo, or corn cakes. The dense arepas were perfect to spread avocados on and sprinkle with pumpkin and sunflower seeds.

Coraje Vegan

A kale salad is topped with plant-based protein, tomatoes, pickled beets, crushed seeds, avocado, and dressing. — La ensalada proteíca from Coraje Vegan

El Poblado has the most vegan restaurants in Medellín, hence why I stayed there. I didn’t go out to eat that often, because the fruit markets truly satiated me. Still, the city has so many wonderful vegan restaurants to offer, serving healthy Colombian food bursting with mind-blowing flavor.

Coraje Vegan is an eco-chic vegan eatery that serves healthy vegan food. I had the Ensalada Proteíca, a protein-packed salad topped with grilled tofu, sauteed mushrooms, lentils, cherry tomatoes, picked vegetables, avocado, and mixed seeds. The protein kept me full for longer sustained energy. This flavorful dish truly fueled me so that I could explore the city longer.

Restaurante Las Veganas

Seitan with sliced avocado, pickled veggies, and potatoes. — The best vegan Colombian food.

In the tranquil, leafy neighborhood of Laureles, Restaurante Las Veganas is a laid-back restaurant serves traditional vegan Colombian food. The plate I had was filled with protein-packed seitan, potatoes, a small salad, picked veggies, and slices of avocado. It was the perfect lunch to reenergize me on a sunny day.

Las Veganas also has a small shop stocked with coconut oil, sauces, protein powders, dairy-free cheeses, kombucha, coffee, and more. So, you can take a small taste of Colombia with you.

What I Did Around Medellín

A mural shows different layers of a woman's side portrait.

Since I only stayed for a few days, I did as much as I possibly could to enjoy this city and what it has to offer. I spent much of my visit learning about the intense history of Medellín, the multi-layered 50-year armed conflict centered around narcotic trafficking, colonialism, fighting over resources, and more. As I mentioned before, Medellín has emerged to take back its collective identity. Here’s what I did to enjoy what Colombia has to offer.

Learning Colombian Slang

Cards show examples of Colombian slang as part of a drinking game. — Some Colombian slang.

My Spanish has gotten pretty decent over the years. I can hold a full conversation for hours! But I only know standard Spanish, and not much slang. Colombians heavily use their local jargon, and it’s an integral part of their Spanish. Sometimes I try to listen to what people are saying, and it’s hard to recognize any of the words. To be truly fluent in another language is to know their slang well.

It’s important to note some words may have different meanings, depending on the country. Others are considered safe to use in one country, but are offensive in others. Most importantly, each country has its own slang; some of it is even city-specific.

Rango Hostel (where I stayed) offers a word drinking game involving the local slang. (I just had seltzer water.) It informative, hilarious, and even kind of offensive at times. For instance, Colombians throw around the word marica like it’s nothing. In this case, it means “dude” in a friendly manner. However, in other Spanish-speaking countries, it means “faggot” and is considered extremely offensive!

Other words include:

Tinto: Black coffee without cream or sugar. (I saw this a lot at cafes.)
Llave: Literally means “key.” In this case, it means “best friend.”
Parcero: A close friend.
Buenas: A greeting, kind of like saying “good afternoon” or “good evening.”
Chao: Bye.
Que video: An interjection of shock when you hear bad news, as if it only happens in a movie.
Güevon: It means “dude” or “friend,” but is considered a playful insult. Only use with close friends.
Ese Pirobo: “This fucking guy!”

As you can see, Colombians love using colorful language, and are delighted to rib and provoke even their closest friends. Personally, I prefer using standard Spanish, unless I am 100% comfortable using Colombian slang in the right contexts. One day, I might accidentally offend someone, and they might not want me to come back. Then again, practice makes perfect!

Strolling through Pueblito Paisa

The courtyard of Pueblito Paisa has a garden and a white church. — Pueblito Paisa is an Antioquian replica.

Set on top of the lush Nutibara Hill, Pueblito Paisa is a charming replica of a traditional 20th-century Antioquian village. A prominent church graces the main plaza, with gardens and a large fountain as the centerpiece. It’s a great spot to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Amid the cobblestone walkways, this magical place has a town hall, a barber shop, snack shops, gift shops selling colorful handicrafts, and even a museum showcasing the musical influences of Colombia.

The restaurants and snack shops don’t offer much vegan food from what I could tell, but I was able to find a refreshing fruit smoothie without milk. You might spend a lot of time in this magical place, so definitely bring some snacks!

Ronnie stands on the cobblestone in front of the church at El Pueblito Paiso.

I spent about an hour in the Museo de la Ciudad at Pueblito Paisa. This museum showcases the history of Medellín. However, this exhibit focused on the musical history of the 20th century to the present: reggaeton, cumbia, rap, rock ‘n’ roll, and even punk. Most of the signs are in Spanish, but some are in English. I read twice as slow in Spanish, so I spent more time getting to know how music influenced Colombian society.

Making feline friends at La Gatoría

A white cat stands on a table in front of a pink neon sign that says, "Te mereces unos ronroneazos en el corazón." — “You deserve some purrs in your heart.”

Housed in a Spanish-style home, La Gatoría is a warm cat cafe in the leafy Laureles neighborhood. It offers some vegan plates to enjoy amid the adorable resident and adoptable cats.

Ronnie holds a 6-week old with a wide-eyed expression, while an adult cat looks on in the background. — Don’t mind me—just enjoying the kitty love here.

These kitties are lovely, funny, and a tad mischievous. The matriarch cat ensured that everyone knew that she’s the boss. A black-and-white cat climbed up the Christmas tree and overlooked the whole establishment on his evergreen perch. The staff even brought out 6-week old kittens! They were so cute and tiny, it was almost unbearable. I loved the little tortoiseshell kitten. She was bright and curious about the world, although the matriarch cat put her in her place.

A cat stands on top of a fake Christmas tree. — Why are they like this?

You need to make a reservation before arriving. You also need to pay a deposit with the reservation, kind of like an admission fee. The deposit is included in the final bill.

Final Thoughts About Medellín

A large sculpture that says "Medellin" stands in front of a garden and a colorful mural of a woman surrounded by nature.

I loved Medellín. It really has come a long way from its violent past and turned its pain into gold. The people were friendly, kind, and excited to share their culture. The food was incredible, and the sights were something to behold. I enjoyed immersing myself in slang word games and then seeing those words on the streets. The next time someone is worried about how Medellín might be dangerous, share this blog post and show them that it’s a colorful, vibrant place that deserves recognition.

A portrait of two women looking in the opposite directions, depicting Colombia's past to the present.

Violence and Healing in Medellín, Colombia

Once again, it was time to visit South America. To start, I was in Medellín, Colombia to utilize Spanish, explore the city, and learn its intense history. When people hear about Colombia, their first thoughts might be about the drugs. They may also think of fresh tropical fruit, cumbia music, and coffee farms on lush green hillsides. If you’re going to visit this city, the history and the recent violent 50-year armed conflict cannot be ignored.

Previously known as the epicenter of the narcotic drug trade, Medellín has been slowly emerging and healing from this recent violence. There are so many interconnecting parts: from the beginnings of colonization and the displacement of the indigenous inhabitants, to the farmers banding together to fight for their land (and their lives). These cumulating events have eventually led to what has happened in the recent decades. Many innocent civilians have also died in the crossfires.

Comuna 13

Rather than neighborhoods, Medellín is split up into communes called “comunas.” One day, I took a tour to learn about the violence that happened in Comuna 13.

Set against high and steep slopes, Comuna 13 is a neighborhood made of makeshift homes with corrugated metal roofs. Farmers fled violence from rural areas and founded this part of Medellín. Leading to the sea and the mountains, this comuna was like a portal for smuggling cocaine and weapons. Slowly, it slipped into a neighborhood that was rife with drug trafficking, paramilitary operations, and rival gangs.

For 10 years, the radical leftist group, FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia: an armed guerrilla paramilitary formed by farmers and peasants), took the power of this community. The rivaling paramilitaries were placed by the Colombian government in order to get rid of them. Eventually, they swapped powers.

A soccer court in Comune 13. — This soccer court is where public executions happened. Now kids play here.

This power swap was practically an invasion that displaced the residents, who also escaped the same radical leftist groups. During that time, there were no police stations or any city protection; it was completely out of control. In Comuna 13, there was an initiative to shoot anyone who may be suspected to be a part of the guerilla. It was like a witch hunt. The government at the time wanted results. So, innocent civilians would get kidnapped on the promise of jobs in the fields.

With help from the U.S. government, Colombia’s Operation Orion aimed to do away with the paramilitary groups. In this operation, over a thousand military troops, two helicopters, and a tank were deployed in an attempt to crush the guerilla groups. But it was a controversial mission, because many witnesses claimed that the governments disappeared innocent civilians. While it was a successful operation that drove away the paramilitaries, the community still remembers the controversy. Even the international courts condemned it.

Eventually, there was a peace agreement to coexist: a ceasefire between guerillas and the paramilitary, as long as they stop killing people. FARC was officially disbanded in 2016. These days, there are sub groups of the FARC, but they don’t have enough people keep mobilizing it. So, they retreated into the background.

The Aftermath  : How a Community Heals

Colorful murals depict Colombia's struggles, from the past to the present. — Murals in Comuna 13.

The violence was deeply traumatic and is of course a heavy subject to this day. As the city heals, artists have gathered to tell their communities’ stories through creative endeavors, such as murals in Comuna 13. Many victims turn to art and music as a way to denounce the violence, challenge ideas, and speak to the viewer when words aren’t enough. Storytelling and expression help bring communities together, so they can rebuild better.

A cable car moves over trees with the city in the background. — A cable car system helps bridge some of the neighborhoods together, which were once isolated by the hilly landscape.

These days, Comuna 13 is a hopping tourist destination—a living, breathing community exploding with creativity in the form of powerful murals, expressive rap and cumbia verses, enticing Colombian cuisine, and more. Steep stairs zigzag into switchbacks as you go higher and higher, overlooking glittering Medellín at night.

Lit buildings in Medellín glow in the evening.

Museo Casa de la Memoria: Remembering the Victims

The 50-year armed conflict in Colombia ended in 2016, which isn’t that long ago in the country’s history. For most people, the memories and trauma of the violence are still fresh. Millions of innocent people have been displaced from their homes, and hundreds of thousands have been killed. We still don’t know the true toll of the multi-faceted armed conflict, whether it’s from narco trafficking, colonialism, fighting over resources, and more.

Quotes in Spanish, as told by children. — “Spirit: What is needed to survive the violence. Life: Love, peace, and sadness.” Children tell it like it is.

  This museum, Museo Casa de la Memoria, is dedicated to the victims of the conflict. Here, they use their voice and share their stories, because being heard helps them heal from this trauma. Like Comuna 13, it’s a meeting place for victims to come and heal together. It’s a lot of reading in this museum, so take your time and get to know their stories and history. 

Also, you’re going to visit Medellín, please do not go to the Pablo Escobar museum. That man has caused so much suffering to the point where many Colombians don’t even want to hear his name. We don’t need to glorify him. Out of respect, go to Museo Casa de la Memoria instead. The victims of his narco regime deserve to be acknowledged.   The words on the bottom of the mural say, “Their name calls us together; their memory blooms on the walls.”

The Search Unit for Missing Persons

Starting in 2024, La Unidad de Búsqueda de Personas dadas por Desaparecidas (UBPD; The Search Unit for Missing Persons), a forensic laboratory near Comuna 13, recovers the bodies of the disappeared victims and identifies them. Identifying the missing loved ones brings back dignity to them and helps families know what happened, so that they can have closure. Since 2025, they’ve recovered 96 bodies. Of course, that’s a fraction of the tens of thousands more that are missing.

Final Thoughts

A building with a colorful Comuna 13 sign against the backdrop of the city.

My visit to Medellín was more focused on learning about the history. Sure, there was a lot of fresh fruit to satisfy my vegan cravings, and Colombia produces some of the best coffee in the world. (Stay tuned for what I also enjoyed!) But the reminders of the 50-year civil war were everywhere. Like I mentioned before, we’re still finding out the true toll of the violence. It may take many more decades. It was heavy and tragic, yet the stories of the survivors were inspiring and hopeful as they heal to build stronger communities together.

Vegan Food in Incheon and Seoul

My visit to Korea isn’t complete without talking about the vegan food. In Korean families, instead of hearing, “How are you?”, you may hear, “Have you eaten yet?” That’s because food is considered a love language in Korean families. It brings people together, and eating is considered a social activity. It might be a challenge to find a restaurant that serves meals for one person, because many places serve at least two at a table. However, you can still dine by yourself if you please.

Food for survival and rebuilding

There’s a reason why food is a love language here.

My mother was born right before the Korean War. She spent her earliest years during the war and the rest of her childhood in meager conditions, when Korea was left a divided country in shambles. The Koreans had to rebuild their communities piece by piece. At the time, they scrounged whatever food was available. Meat was scarce and considered a luxury; they would have it during special occasions, such as birthdays. Omma and her family mostly subsisted on rice, vegetables, tofu, and some seafood. They cooked and ate together, because their survival depended on it.

As she raised me and my sister, our mother fed us comforting Korean dishes, such as kimbap, japchae, rice, kimchi, and fried tofu. While meat was a part of our diets, it didn’t feel like a big part of our lives (at least, not for me). Perhaps this is why I became vegetarian so easily as a kid: it was already written in our ancestral diets.

But taking Korean lunch to school was a different story. Growing up in the rural suburbs of Northern Virginia, the fear of immigrants was prevalent. As I mentioned in my previous entry, anything that wasn’t considered American was unfamiliar, gross, stinky, or even downright repugnant. Once, I brought Omma’s delicious kimbap and kimchi to school, where the smell of spicy fermented cabbage permeated my vicinity. And because kids were being kids, they never let me hear the end of it. For a while, my nickname was “garlic breath.” That was the last time I brought Korean food to school.

That never stopped me from enjoying it though. They can take away Korean food from my cold, dead hands.

Finding vegan food in South Korea

I’ll be honest: it was actually hard to find vegan food in South Korea, especially in Incheon. The country is surrounded by water, so seafood is abundant. Most restaurants have dishes with seafood or meat; there would be no vegan options on the menu. If I had to rate how easy it was to find vegan food, it’s a 4 out of 10. I definitely need more than a week to find more places!

Like all other trips, the Happy Cow app is a lifesaver to find vegan food. It costs $5 from the iPhone app store, but it’s worth it. I use it all the time, whether abroad or back home.

Since I was staying in Incheon, there weren’t a lot of vegan options around my hotel. Thankfully, I came prepared with enough energy bars to have breakfast for the week. Trader Joe’s has their name-brand energy bars for a little over a dollar, which saves time and money when starting the day.

After seeing our Imo in Incheon, I took Jess out to a vegan lunch at Gapyeong Suntofu Barley House. Run by an elderly couple, the restaurant specializes in barley rice and soft tofu that you mix with soy sauce. Although they do serve meat, most of the dishes are vegan by default. It’s served with doenjang (fermented soybean paste), gochujang (spicy sauce), and banchan (small plates of vegetables and kimchi for sharing). We ate, slurping our tofu with soysauce and topping spoonfuls of rice with pickled sides.

Tteok comes in many sizes, shapes, and colors.

One day, I wandered around the enormous Lotte department store in Incheon. At the bottom floor, there are many restaurants and cafes. I found a vendor that makes tteok, which are sticky rice cakes that often have beans folded into the mix. Usually tteok is cheap, but these were kind of pricey, since they were in a department store. But the soft, comforting treat was what I had been looking for. It was legit.

Vegan Street food in Seoul

For lunch and dinner, I often went to Seoul, where vegan street food is more common. In the popular markets such as Myeongdong, Namdaemun, and Gwangjang, some street vendors offer classic Korean dishes:

Kimbap: Savory veggies rolled up in rice and seaweed, kind of like sushi. But it’s not sushi.
Japchae: Sweet potato-based glass noodles with spinach, carrots, and bean sprouts, and seasoned with black pepper, soy sauce, and sesame oil. It’s a childhood favorite of mine.
Tteok: Sweet, sticky rice cakes. They come in different colors and may have a sweet red bean filling or even ground sesame. Others may have sweet peas or beans folded between layers. You have to chew the sticky morsels thoroughly to avoid choking. Another favorite growing up!
Bindaetteok: Deep-fried mungbean pancakes. Many of them have bean sprouts and onions mixed in; others have meat. The vegan bindaetteok has lots of protein and fat to help keep me full and energized. In Gwangjang Market, there were plenty of bindaetteok vendors that had vegan options!

Just can’t get enough tteok. These were divine.

I would say that the expansive Gwangjang Market has the most variety of vegan options for cheap. Apparently, there’s even a vegan food tour, but they were unfortunately full. (There’s always next time!) You do need to bring cash, since most places don’t take credit cards. Many vendors speak minimal English, so having some Korean basics can go a long way when ordering.

Vegan Restaurants in Seoul

You’ll have a much easier time finding a vegan restaurant in Seoul than in Incheon. As I mentioned, while vegan options are expanding, sometimes it can still be hard to find food. For instance, I really wanted to find a tofu wrap by ByTofu, and it was across town. From Incheon, it took nearly a couple hours to get there. By the time I arrived, the cafe had closed to prepare for its dinner menu. I was so bummed, because the food looked absolutely scrumptious in the photos. It’s like that sometimes, though.

Plantude

I pulled up the Happy Cow app to find the nearest vegan spot, which was Plantude on the seventh floor within I’Park Mall at Yongsan Station. It took an hour to get there. By the time I arrived, I hadn’t eaten for four hours!

“Soft Tofu from Hell” is a tofu jjigae in a piping-hot clay pot.

Plantude has Korean dishes with a Western twist. I had the “Soft Tofu in Hell” dish, which was like a spicy tofu jjigae (stew) with tomatoes. It’s served with rice and garlic bread. The dish comes piping-hot, so don’t touch the clay bowl like I did. I burned myself, so that dish really lives up to its name. Lol. In all seriousness, it really did hit the spot. It’s amazing how food can leave you feeling energized and happy.

Maji Temple Food

After having a photoshoot at Gyeongbokgung Palace, it was time for lunch. After turning in my rental hanbok, I walked over to the tranquil Maji restaurant, which serves traditional Korean temple food. Embodied by Buddhist spirituality, temple food is vegan and doesn’t use the five pungent vegetables—green onions, garlic, chives, wild chives, and Chinese squill—since they may disrupt the spiritual practice. It often uses fermented products, such as doenjang: a fermented soybean paste.

The main lunch item came as a variety of small banchan dishes with the sweet and sour shiitake mushrooms and japchae as the main dishes. The fragrant steamed rice came inside a wrapped lotus leaf, and the doenjang was aged for three years, which brings out a deeper flavor. Because I’m a japchae lover through and through, that was my favorite dish.

For dessert, the yugwa (puffed rice cake that melts in your mouth) and the little moist yakgwa cookie were adorable and paired well with the tea. They finished the meal off nicely.

It was raining hard outside, and I had my rain jacket and wide-brimmed hat. In Seattle, I’ve grown used to not using an umbrella, as long as I was dressed appropriately. When the owner of the restaurant asked how I was going to stay dry, I said that my jacket would do. Then she graciously pulled out her own umbrella and insisted that I take it. I tried to decline, but she put it in my hand and told me that it’s a gift. I was floored by the kindness of this woman! The umbrella did turn out to be useful, and I spent the rest of the day staying dry. People should eat at Maji Temple food, because it really is made with love and kindness.

Vegan treats in Seoul

As the vegan lifestyle becomes more popular, so does the variety of vegan treats that you can find in Seoul. If you’re tired of chewing sticky tteok, then I have a couple of delicious suggestions.

Overte Donuts

O.verte Donuts is a snug café that serves vegan donuts with sophisticated flavors such as raspberry pistachio, matcha glaze and crumble, and tiramisu glaze. I had both the matcha and tiramisu flavors, and the soft texture was divine! I wasn’t even looking for donuts, but this was certainly calling my name. They also serve coffee, but I didn’t have that in the evening. I bought the donuts as takeaway, since the café was inundated with exuberant Korean business men who sat around the only table. It’s all good!

Ashville Bakery

Asheville Cafe is a warm vegan bakery set just around a corner in the Bukchon Hanok Village. After walking up and down those steep hills, some treats were in order! You have to walk down some stairs to get to the hidden bakery. I ordered a pastry stuffed with a sweet, airy cream that’s reminiscent of a fluffy cloud. I also had a decadent ppat (red bean) pastry, a rich bread stuffed with sweet red beans. Usually, they’re made with butter and eggs. I used to enjoy them when I was a vegetarian. This vegan version tasted just like it!

The past, present, and future of Korean food

Japchae noodles with shredded vegetables in the background. — Your non-Korean friends might love japchae noodles.

As I mentioned in my last post, Korean culture, products, and food are in vogue in the United States. I’m really glad that South Korea is finally getting recognition, since they’ve been fighting to get to where they are today. And the best thing is that Americans, particularly white people, are finally trying Korean food and actually enjoying it.

But something that tugs at me is, why did it also take white society’s stamp of approval to finally make this food popular in mainstream society? What was once considered stinky and gross—such as kimchi—is now touted as a health food by many white Instagram influencers and chefs while often ignoring the history behind it. (Though, the probiotics are actually good for you.) Sometimes, they’ll make their own “new and improved” kimchi at higher prices. What was wrong with it before? If you want kimchi, then try supporting a Korean-owned business who has the tried and true recipes.

Don’t get me wrong—I’m glad that more people of all walks of life are enjoying what Koreans have to offer. It really is good stuff! I truly hope that this is more than just a health fad, because Korean food has existed long before this current era, and it will exist long afterwards.

Reconnecting in South Korea

For the first time in over 30 years, I have returned to the motherland, South Korea. My sister Jess and I visited our Imo, our mother’s older sister. Since our mom has passed, Imo is the last link to the Korean side of the family. We haven’t seen her since we were kids. A week-long visit was in order to reconnect.

Caught between two worlds

Growing up, I always felt caught between two worlds. My mother was Korean, and my father was a white man.

My first language was Korean: Dad would work during the day, and Omma would stay home to take care of me. Naturally, my first conversations were in Korean. I spoke it fluently until preschool, where I didn’t know how to communicate with my English-speaking classmates.

Through childhood, being bi-racial felt like a cultural tug-of-war. In Omma’s Korean circles, I looked more like “the other side.” At school, my blond-haired, blue-eyed counterparts would say that I looked “Chinese” and “not American,” vocalizing tonal sounds to mock the language I grew up with. In the rural suburbs of Virginia, anyone who didn’t fit the “standard American” image was considered unclean, weird, or even dangerous. As I grew older, I became self-conscious of my Korean background. In addition, my mother and I always had a fractious relationship, which sadly made it harder to connect with her. Eventually, I stopped speaking Korean.

It was like that then—and still is today

At first, going to South Korea felt heavy. A few weeks before our visit, ICE agents arrested hundreds of immigrants, mostly Koreans, at a Hyundai plant without any diplomatic notice. The Supreme Court also ruled out that ICE can arrest anyone who has a darker skin tone or speaks a language that isn’t English, especially if they speak Spanish. They’ve even started detaining Black U.S. citizens.

As shown above, anti-immigrant hate is nothing new. It’s a shame, because these attitudes often disconnect us from our cultures, as we do our best to assimilate. It always felt like I had to pick one side over the other. Since we were children at the time, we strove to be products of our environment, because our social survival depended on it. But as a result, the Korean side of me has felt fractured for most of my life.

It’s never too late to reconnect

Immigrants and minorities were often feared…and for what? All they want to do is live in peace with their families and connect with communities. Immigrants are beloved and valued in society, because they introduce new cuisines, customs, and perspectives that we can all learn from. Also, living with immigrants can show you to be kind to all kinds, especially when they look differently from you. Anyone who thinks otherwise is really missing out.

Over time, I learned that no one can take our cultural roots away from us. So, this trip to South Korea was kind of like a pilgrimage to reconcile our racial identity and find the missing pieces. It’s been healing in a way, especially with seeing our Imo.

Using the Korean language

My sister and I mostly stayed in Incheon, where our Imo lives. Here in Incheon, it helps to know some basic Korean. What I had forgotten has come back faster than I expected! I still know enough to get by, such as asking for directions, ordering food, and expressing my likes and dislikes. I can read simple sentences. However, I certainly understand far more than what I can express in this language. Using Korean in the motherland was healing there, too—especially when the locals validated me. All is not lost!

Most Koreans don’t speak English; maybe about 20% know some. Knowing a little bit of Korean can go a long way.

Our aunt, Imo

Oh, Imo. “Imo” means “aunt” in Korean. She has dementia and has been under the care of a nursing home for quite some time now. Jess and I hadn’t seen her since we were kids, so we didn’t know if she would recognize us.

We walked into the room, and Imo looked up, confused. Then her eyes lit up with a small smile.

She squeezed our hands, and the three of us were together again in quiet joy.

Through the week, we did errands with her. It can be hard for Imo to talk, and she only speaks Korean. She also needs assistance in getting around places. With an assistant’s help, we were able to help her stuff done.

Imo asked if she could buy us lunch, although she had already eaten. Instead of “How are you?”, you might hear, “Have you eaten?” That’s because food is a love language in Korean families.

After doing the errands together, it took a lot out of Imo. She lay down for a nap, and it was time for Jess and I to go off on our own before we visit her again the next day.

Seeing Imo was healing, like I’m picking up some of these lost pieces. Even though she has daily challenges, the connection was still there after all these years. Since she’s the last link of our Korean family, this has made our visit to the motherland even more special.

Connecting further with my Korean roots

When I wasn’t visiting Imo, I wanted to further connect with my Korean roots. Jess ended up going back home earlier than me, so I got to explore Seoul on my own a little bit.

But first, look at this transit pass! It’s pink with a cute character and holographic foil. I bought this from a convenience store at the airport. But sometimes it wouldn’t reload in the subway kiosks. If I had to buy another transit pass, the T-Money card would be better, since it’s more flexible and takes you further.

I ended up spending quite a bit on transportation through the week. When you’re taking the subway all day long, those costs add up. Fortunately, at the end of your trip, you can go back to a convenience store and ask for a cash refund from whatever is left over on your card.

My obsession with norigae tassels

Not only did I grow up eating comforting Korean food that Omma made, in our home there were beautiful pieces of black-lacquered furniture with intricate inlaid designs of iridescent abalone shells. Colorful norigae tassels hung on cabinet knobs, doors, and walls. Depending on what shape they featured, each kind of norigae offered a different kind of fortune:

Butterfly: Symbolizes good luck and longevity, and a life filled with happiness.
Coin Pouch: Symbolizes to bring the wearer prosperity and riches.
Gochu (Chili Pepper): Bringing hope to bear many sons or to ward off bad spirits with its spice. It turns out that the “gochu” is a phallic symbol and is modern slang for “penis.”

We grew up with many gochu norigaes in the house. Since our mom had two daughters, she probably thought that the chili pepper was just an important part of Korean cuisine. And those spicy chili peppers would still keep bad forces at bay. Personally, I choose to believe that Koreans just really like peppers, as evidenced in their food and their “spicy” and passionate temperament (known as “han”).

In the underground markets of Myeongdong, there were stores galore selling norigae of all shapes, sizes, and colors. While the bustling open-air shopping district pulsed during the day, the market below was a hidden respite with handicraft shops and cooler air. I bought a handful of those colorful tassels to bring back home and to give out as gifts to friends.

Photoshoot in a hanbok

Another special thing I did in Seoul was rent a hanbok, a traditional Korean dress, and have a photoshoot at Gyeongbokgung Palace. It was the perfect way to lean into my Korean roots here as well.

My first birthday celebration, the doljanchi

The last time I wore a hanbok was during my childhood. For my first birthday, my Omma put me in a rainbow hanbok and threw a doljanchi to celebrate it. Back then, infant mortality was quite high in Korea. So, when a baby made it to their first hundred days and eventually their first year, it was a big deal. Practiced since the Joseon period, the family would have a huge celebration for the baby, offering food and rituals. The baby would pick up an object that would predict their future. I don’t know what object I picked up. But wasn’t I cute?

Gyeongbokgung Palace was built in the year 1395 as the first royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. It’s where the first modern script, Hangul, was invented. Over the centuries, parts of the palace have been destroyed and reconstructed from fires, wars, and even Japan’s colonization in 1910. Since then, there have been efforts to reconstruct more buildings and preserve the cultural site.

It rained during the day of the photoshoot, but the setting was still gorgeous. People still looked great in their finest hanboks. I even had my hair styled! If you’re going to Gyeongbokgung Palace, consider renting a hanbok and walking around like royalty. Doing so gives you free admission to the palace grounds. It’s rather budget-friendly, although the photoshoot was extra (I paid $100). You get a couple of hours to walk around as you please.

National Folk Museum of Korea

Afterwards, I went to the National Folk Museum of Korea to further understand how Koreans lived in the past and present. It shows exhibits and artifacts of rites of passage during a person’s life, and how the Japanese tried to destroy Korean culture (yet it prevailed), as well as detailing why education has been so important for citizens. These days, as South Korea modernizes, it has been taking on more Western influences. This museum preserves knowledge of how the traditional way of life has been like, while offering modern exhibits as well.

Walking in Bukchon Hanok Village

Close to the Gyeongbokgung Palace is the Bukchon Hanok Village. I spent hours walking through the labyrinth neighborhood of traditional Korean homes. Some buildings are shops, tea houses, and restaurants to peruse, and many others are private homes. If you’re visiting, try to talk in quieter voices as to not disturb the residents. The hills are quite steep, so bring good walking shoes!

The Markets in Seoul

There are three popular markets that I went to: Myeongdong, Namdaemun, and Gwangjang. Of the three, Gwangjang was my favorite. This sprawling market has several departments, such as an extensive food court offering Korean street food, souvenirs, more norigae, colorful fabrics to make custom hanboks, bedsheets, and more.

You can wander for hours among the shops. It was the perfect opportunity to flex my Korean skills, which tickled the shop owners. I ordered and bought things entirely in Korean. They would smile and tell me I speak pretty well. I consider that a win!

Going back home

A week really wasn’t enough time in South Korea. Still, Jess and I did what we needed to do, which was to see Imo. I can’t speak for Jess, but I thought this was a good start to healing what had been lost.

In the Incheon International Airport, there’s a small cultural center showcasing traditional Korean arts and crafts. The center offers workshops and programs for visitors, such as making small purses, paper jewelry boxes, and paper fans. There’s a gift shop and even a photobooth where people could try on a hanbok and take pics. It was one last taste of Korea before I departed.

Final thoughts of reconnecting with these Korean roots

South Korea has fought hard to get to where it is today. Now, “K-products” are in vogue. While no one seemed to know Korea’s existence while growing up, K-pop, K-beauty, and K-dramas are now considered a premium label. This recognition is well-deserved, and I’m glad that Korea is finally getting its moment in the spotlight. For example, K-Pop Demon Hunters is a world-renowned animation about three K-Pop singers fighting underworld demons to save the world and seal the Honmoon. The entire soundtrack is a banger, belting out upbeat lyrics about finding oneself and reconciling the shadow parts. Hit songs were blasting throughout Seoul, and apparently, the world.

I just hope that Korean culture more than just a trend, because we’re here to stay.

And as for me, no one can take away the missing pieces that I’ve picked up. It’s going to be a long road, and I have the rest of my life to reconnect with these lost parts now.

The word "comer" is suspended among umbrellas of many colors.

World Travel

Vegan Food in Buenos Aires

Before coming to Buenos Aires, I had read how important el asado, or steak, is to Argentinian cuisine. In fact, it’s woven into the national identity, like fútbol and yerba mate. It appears everywhere in ads, on the streets, and on restaurant menus. At first, this city sounds like one of the most vegan-unfriendly places on the planet.

Nothing could be further from the truth. When I arrived in Buenos Aires, I was blown away by how many vegan options there were! For a country that’s known for its meat, it was incredibly easy to find vegan food here.

A fruit stand offering rows of fruits and vegetables — It’s really easy to eat vegan in Buenos Aires.

For starters, there are a lot of fruterías, or fruit stands in Buenos Aires. You can stock up on fresh fruits and veggies throughout the city for cheap. Since it’s summer during this time of year, many produce is at its prime. I love stocking up on fresh berries during the summer. It’s a refreshing option.

Alfajores are little cookie sandwiches with dulce de leche (kind of like a caramel paste) filling inside and enrobed in chocolate. They are ubiquitous throughout Argentina, Uruguay, and Chile. When I tried one in Chile, I was blown away by its light and creamy texture. Imagine my delight when I discovered more in Buenos Aires! There were so many flavors to try: dark chocolate, white chocolate, strawberry, lemon, etc. You can probably tell that I developed an alfajor addiction. They’re really good with coffee. You might have a late-afternoon merienda with an alfajor and a coffee with your friends.

I went to many places in Buenos Aires. Here are my favorite eateries that I have to share.

Craft Vegan Bakery

Can you believe these pastries are all vegan?!

I was wandering around the Caballito neighborhood when I stumbled upon a cozy vegan panadería called Craft Vegan Bakery. It’s not every day that I can find a vegan croissant. Craft Vegan Bakery offers decadent vegan pastries, such as cinnamon rolls, scones, or a medialuna: a croissant with a dulce de leche or a light chocolate creme filling. They also have whole loaves of bread. I just stayed with the pastries. I will never turn down a good cinnamon roll either, working my way to its warm, doughy center. This is a chain bakery, so there are numerous locations throughout the city.

Liberación Cocina Vegana

Liberación Cocina Vegana (meaning “vegan kitchen liberation”) is a takeaway food joint offering empanadas, sandwiches, and prepared food like pasta and lentil dishes. When I stopped by, there was a full tray of fresh empanadas. Empanadas are savory hand pies, and they’re very popular in Argentina. I bought a couple, plus a cinnamon roll. Sometimes I like to compare notes between places. To me, that cinnamon roll was a little drier than the one from Craft Vegan Bakery, but I still liked it. At the end of the day, it’s like comparing apples and oranges.

When I went to Liberación Cocina Vegana, they were working hard to fill in holiday food orders. There wasn’t a lot of prepared food when I went in, but maybe that ebbs and flows.

Raslok

Probably the most adorable vegan grocery store I’ve ever been to.

Raslok is a snug vegan grocery store with a cute cafe in the upstairs loft. In the store, you’ll find goods like sauces, dry goods, coffee, tea, plant-based meats and cheeses, and many snacks. In fact, that’s where I found many of the alfajores. The adorable cafe upstairs serves nutritious whole-foods plant-based meals. There are dishes like lentil burgers, salads, quinoa bowls, and lots more. I didn’t try any, but the food looks minimally processed, so you know it’s good for you. You’ll also find vegan cookbooks in Spanish, cosmetics, vitamins, and supplements upstairs as well. If you pay with cash, your bill is 10% less than if you pay with a credit card.

Menta y Limon

Before going to El Cemeterio de Recoleta, I stopped by Menta y Limon for fresh empanadas. The lunch special offered three empanadas for $5! The ones I got were stuffed with vegan meats, creamy melted cheese, and roasted veggies. The eatery is housed under a food court with many multi-colored umbrellas hanging from the skylights.

Lado V

Lado V was a vibrant vegan restaurant among the trendy bars and nightclubs in the heart of Palermo. The multi-colored interactive art installations offered the perfect experience to enjoy vegan hamburgers, pizzas, and more. Many nights, DJs would play their sets in a room with glittering disco balls, hanging lanterns, and expressive murals cast in rainbow lights. The food was so delicious, luring many omnivores! In a country that is renowned for wine and asado (steak), Lado V showed that the vegan lifestyle is extraordinary and fun. Buenos Aires really does offer something for everyone. I’m falling more in love with this city every day!

Shortly after my return to the U.S., it looks like Lado V has closed its doors. It looks like they’re going to reopen in a different location later down the road, but it’s unclear when.

Guille Veggie

My partner, his best friend, and I were in the mood for Peruvian food at Guille Veggie one night. Peruvian food usually has potatoes in their dishes, because many different types are cultivated there. I had the “Lomito saltado de Soja,” a seasoned fire-roasted seitan dish with herbed potatoes, onions, and red and green bell peppers. I don’t quite remember what the other dishes were called, but most of them had potatoes or beans as the base. Guille Veggie even offers Inca Cola, a fluorescent yellow drink that tastes like cream soda and bubble gum. It was my first time having it, and I was expecting a lemon or lime flavor.

Final Thoughts About the Vegan Restaurants in Buenos Aires

Before, even though I had browsed the maps for vegan restaurants in Buenos Aires, the abundant options throughout this city blew my mind! Even Seattle could learn a thing or two—which, by the way, keeps losing vegan places, but I digress. Here in B.A., it’s practically raining empanadas and alfajores. When you have the compassionate option to eat with peace on your plate, I hope this list offers a good starting point on where to go. (Except for Lado V—R.I.P. for now).

World Travel

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A wrapped alfajor cookie sits on top of a handmade necklace with tassels, surrounded by Argentinian money and the flag.

Aboard the foot ferry from Montevideo, it took three hours to cross the river into Buenos Aires, Argentina. This city was my last stop of the Southern Cone trip in South America. That ferry might be the nicest boat I’ve ever been on. It even has a duty-free shop! While I never buy anything from those stores, it’s still nice to look around while enjoying the smooth sailing across the river.

Anyway, here are my observations about Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Comparing Notes about Argentina and Uruguay

Uruguay and Argentina are like two peas in a pod. Both countries speak the Rioplatense Spanish dialect, and both are best known for yerba mate tea, asado (steak), and fútbol (or “soccer,” but don’t ever call it that over there). For example, in both places, “dale” (pronounced “dah-lay”) means “okay” or “go ahead.” It’s an important one to know, because people say it all the time to express agreement or encourage someone to do something.

Argentina reveres Lionel Messi like a god.

Argentina won the World Cup two years ago, and they still talk about it. The Argentinians revere the famed football player, Lionel Messi, like a god. As such, you’ll see grand murals of Messi throughout the city. They take pride in this national sport.

Another thing about Argentina is to never, ever call Las Islas Malvinas (Malvina Islands) the “Falkland Islands,” because they’re supposed to belong to Argentina and not the UK. In fact, there was a war disputing the territory in 1982, where Argentina invaded the islands in the South Atlantic, claiming ownership. The British disagreed and counterattacked until eventually Argentina surrendered. Hundreds of Argentinian soldiers died in that war. It’s a sore subject to this day.

Finally, the Buenos Aires version of the Rioplantense dialect has a separate set of vocabulary called Lunfardo, which is Italian blended with Spanish. In the late 19th century, Italian prisoners created Lunfardo as its own coded jargon in the underbelly of Buenos Aires. Eventually, this jargon spread into the mainstream. There are about 5,000 Lunfardo words, so it’s practically its own local dialect.

One difference is that Uruguay is expensive, while Argentina is cheap. While I thought that Montevideo is a sleepy little city, Buenos Aires is buzzing with activity. There’s something for everyone in this international city. And since it’s summer and school is out, many of these places can get crowded.

La Navidad in Buenos Aires

Christmas Dinner: Vegan *vitel tone* with stuffed peppers, mac & cheese, bread, and potatoes

It was my first time spending la Navidad, or Christmas, in the Summer! In the Northern Hemisphere, I would bundle up and sip hot drinks while staying inside with my warm sweaters. In the Southern Hemisphere, people fire up their grills to make their holiday asados, or barbecue meats. People tend to eat dinner rather late, around 10 or 11 p.m. on Christmas Eve, instead of Christmas Day. A tuna-based dish called vitel tone is very popular, as is pan dulce (sweet bread with bits of chocolate and dried fruit inside). Since I’m vegan, my host graciously prepared vegan vitel tone made of seitan, along with veggies filled with seasoned vegan meat. We broke out the pan dulce at midnight to ring in Christmas.

My Spanish Immersion in Buenos Aires

During that night, I managed to hold up a conversation in Spanish for almost three hours! I was so pleased with myself. My host’s family said that I speak very clearly. I still wouldn’t say that I’m totally fluent, but I am comfortable enough with the language. The good people of this city can tell that I’m not from around here, so they speak standard Spanish with me instead of the Rioplantense and Lunfardo.

The Argentinians talk really, really fast. It can be challenging to follow along, but by immersing myself in this language and speaking it daily, I’m learning faster. I even dreamed in Spanish a little bit!

Getting Around in Buenos Aires

Getting around Buenos Aires is easy. Personally, I prefer going by subway, or the Subte. Sometimes I also had to take the bus. I highly recommend getting a rechargeable Sube card, which you can purchase at a Subte station or at a kiosko (kiosk). If you’re taking the bus and see it coming, wave your hand to flag the driver. Then tell them where you want to go in order to pay the correct fare. Easy!

Exploring Buenos Aires

After arriving in Buenos Aires from Montevideo, I rested for a couple of days, especially after walking every day in Chile and Uruguay. It was also much hotter than what I’m used to. It’s okay to take days off and save energy.

Buenos Aires is big. Everywhere I went had a pleasant surprise in almost every corner. It was still an adjustment to experience summer in December, and one that I welcomed. While Montevideo is more reserved and slower, Buenos Aires perpetually pulses with life and energy. Even introverts such as myself might find something they like.

The “Paris of Latin America”

European-influenced architecture is ubiquitous in Buenos Aires.

On Christmas Day, I walked around in downtown Buenos Aires to see what the hot fuss is about. Everywhere I went, an eclectic mix of European architecture flanked the streets. There were influences from Italy, France, Britain, and Germany: Neoclassical palaces with Greek-inspired columns, curved nature-inspired motifs of Art Nouveau, and geometric shapes and hard lines of Art Deco. Buenos Aires feels like being in a European city in South America. Some call it the “Paris of Latin America.”

This is an interesting juxtaposition of a modern art nouveau tower embedded in a contemporary glass building.

This Brutalist building is the National Library of Argentina.

I walked to Avenida 9 de Julio, which is considered the widest avenue in the world, boasting seven lanes on each side. It takes a few minutes to actually cross the whole thing. I did see the towering Obelisco, a major landmark along the avenue. Several blocks away and over is the Casa Rosada, where the President works. Everywhere I went in the Downtown area was an architectural treat.

Palermo has a lot of colorful restaurants and bars.

Then there’s Palermo, where all of the trendy bars and restaurants are. It’s much more expensive, but I really liked just walking through in the daytime and seeing the quirky, painted buildings. On the weekend, there was a street fair with more vendors. I did some holiday shopping there, so my loved ones at home could have a taste of Argentina.

Parque Centenario

One of my favorite things to do was walk among the verdant gardens and lakes within the round Parque Centenario and browse the open-air librerías, or bookstores. Many famous books in Spanish were for sale, such as collections of famous poetry from the late Pablo Neruda or magical realism stories from the renowned Colombian writer, Gabriel García Marquez. I found a Spanish translation of El Principito, which is originally written in French. As an aside, that was the first book I finished in Spanish!

In fact, it was common to see the open-air book stands in other parks as well. Sometimes vendors sold books in their single kiosks on the street. There’s something romantic about distributing knowledge and information for cheap in the form of a good book in an artfully painted kiosk.

El Cementerio de la Recoleta

Eva Perón rests in peace somewhere in this cemetery.

One day, I went to Cementerio de Recoleta, a majestic 5-hectare cemetery where some of Argentina’s most important historical figures are laid to rest. This includes Eva Perón, the wife of Argentina’s most controversial president, Juan Perón. Marble mausoleums and intricate sculptures–mysterious robed figures, stone crosses, and grand winged angels–line the pathways like small city blocks. Walking among these tombs was tranquil yet eerie, as you walk among former presidents, notable political figures, famous writers, and Nobel Prize laureates.

After visiting the cemetery, I strolled in the green space lined with street vendors selling art, jewelry, confections, and other handmade goods. I’ve collected a lot of jewelry from around the world and was eager to add to my collection. For only $20, I found a multi-colored braided necklace with four black tassels hanging from silver rings. It would go nicely with many of my outfits.

Centro Cultural Recoleta

A sculpture referencing the work of Julio Cortázar.

Within the same area is the Centro Cultural Recoleta, a multimedia art and cultural space offering exhibits, classes, and performances. Many exhibits featured contemporary art, such as exploring a bizarre fantasy world through a VR headset or kinetic sculptures made with branches and strings. Currently, the main exhibit features the life story of the renowned Argentinian writer, Julio Cortázar. Personal artifacts such as hand-written letters and photographs are on display, as well as original audio recordings and fragments of his writings. Video shorts, sculptures, and installations created by numerous Argentinian artists serve as an homage to his literary works.

Museo Nacional de Bella Artes

Onward, I went to Museo Nacional de Bella Artes, which houses an international public art collection. There are paintings by many iconic European artists such as Francisco Goya, Claude Monet, Vincent Van Gogh, and more. The exhibits transition seamlessly from pre-Colombian, to rococo, to modern, to contemporary art. You could spend hours immersed in the beauty of these pieces. Admission is free, but a donation is suggested.

Jardín Japones

Buenos Aires is known for its many parks and extensive gardens. In the same area as the major museums is the Jardín Japones, or the Japanese Garden. It offers a peaceful break from the hustle and bustle of the city. Since it’s summer from December to March, the garden is lush and green under the sun. Manicured paths wind around the koi ponds, as the huge fish glide through the water. When I went, the azaleas were at their prime this time of year. In the building upstairs is a beautiful kimono exhibit, showcasing colorful traditional garments of Japan. I’ve never been to Japan, and this garden just might be giving me ideas.

How I Feel About Buenos Aires

Ronnie in a green space with the Argentinian flag in the background

I was really blown away by how incredible Buenos Aires is. Everywhere I went, there was something special. Of course, there was a lot of vegan food in the city. I will be writing a separate post about the plant-based food in Buenos Aires. The food discoveries deserve their own page.

There were some other places I really wanted to visit in Buenos Aires, such as the illustrious Caminito, a colorful street lined with multi-colored houses towards the edge of the city. The neighboring La Plata, with its beautifully symmetrical city design, has the towering Gothic cathedral as its centerpiece. I also would love to go inside the National Library next time.

This expansive international city is one that I will have to return to one day.

World Travel

Montevideo, Uruguay

While my home base, Seattle, was cozying up with coffee and sweaters during the dark winter nights, I welcomed the Summer Solstice in Montevideo, Uruguay. From the Santiago airport, I flew over to the other side of South America. From the airport, I took the bus over to Downtown, which took an hour. I then walked ten blocks to Ciudad Vieja, or the Old City.

While Valparaíso is famed for its steep, colorful hills, Montevideo’s cityscape is flat and even. The streets neatly follow a grid pattern, with diagonals spanning away from the city center and taking you further out–a stark contrast to the winding, maze-like alleyways in Valparaíso.

Even though Montevideo is very different from Valparaíso, colorful murals grace the streets, promoting diversity and pride in this progressive-minded city. Just turning a corner might reveal random art installations, as music plays from the old European-style buildings. People go about their day, with a yerba mate drink in one hand and a thermos full of hot water tucked under the arm. If you’re not going around the city sipping on your open-container mate packed with soaked yerba leaves and drinking out of a metal bombilla (straw), are you even Uruguayan?

Somewhere I read that Montevideo is a bit of a sleepy city. Indeed, the energy of the city is much slower. Shops and cafes tend to open around 10 or 11, and close around 5 or 6 in the evening. The streets can be a little empty, even on a Sunday. Things crawl more of a snail’s pace ’round here.

One thing that surprised me was that Monte is a lot more expensive than Chile and Argentina. It’s not Seattle-expensive, but you can definitely expect to pay more around here.

I met up with a friend that I had met at Burning Man. Alana lives four hours from Montevideo and knew all the best spots in the city. I was so grateful to have a friend come along!

How’s your Spanish doing?

My Spanish immersion was going well. So far, most of my conversations had been in Spanish, even in Chile, where it’s known to be difficult. In Uruguay, people speak a dialect called Rioplatense. The words are different, as is the accent. For me, it’s a little easier to understand. Still, I asked people to speak slowly. Although if you’re immersing yourself and you get stuck, many people do speak English.

My First Impressions of Montevideo

Ciudad Vieja, or Old City, is the historic city center, that at one point was surrounded by a wall in the 18th century to protect against invasions. Along a pedestrian path just blocks from the water, Casa Vegana is a charming anti-speciest vegan hostel in Ciudad Vieja. Exposed brick walls offered a glimpse of history of a 300-year-old colonial building. Animal-rights propaganda in Spanish were plastered throughout the hostel walls. I felt right at home.

What happens to the earth happens to us / The animals are on the earth with us, not for us / To be vegan is to stop taking what was never ours: another’s right to live in freedom / Your freedom stops where the animals’ freedom begin.

Vegan Food in Montevideo

For a country that’s known for its meat, it blew my mind to see how many vegan options there are. From Chinese food buffets to vegan junk food, it was super easy to see what Montevideo has to offer.

Kerop Café & Tattoo

Kerop is a space-goth concept cafe with a tattoo parlor, offering coffee, snacks, and black-and-white tattoos with some color. The pink, purple, and turquoise mural in the back portrays an inquisitive woman with psychedelic optical-illusion eyes, as bubbles float along her bionic hand. A few things on the menu are vegan, such as the semi-frío, a light ice cream mousse on a cookie crust and topped with passion fruit puree. Having that with coffee was the perfect treat to have on a warm summer day. I didn’t get any new tattoos, though!

Sui Yuan

For lunch, Alana showed me her favorite pan-Asian restaurant called Sui Yuan. This buffet restaurant sells hot food by the pound, as well as goods such as rice, sauces, nuts, dried fruit and tea. The vegetarian hot food bar clearly labeled vegan food like vegetable chow mein noodles, faux meats, breaded kimbap (a Korean rice roll with veggies, like sushi), greens, steamed dumplings, tofu, and more. While I wanted to try everything, I piled my plate with whatever looked the most delicious.

Guacamole

Guacamole is an eatery inside an unassuming shopping center. We stopped by on a sleepy Sunday afternoon, when the streets were almost empty. The building was dark inside, and we thought it was locked, but a couple was walking by and opened the door for us. Inside, all of the stores were closed; it felt rather lonely with most of the lights off. Guacamole was the only place that was open and running. Alana and I had a slice of rich chocolate pie; an adorable strawberry milkshake topped with dairy-free whipped cream and rainbow star sprinkles; and a gramajito: a handful of breaded vegan chicken balls, olives, caramelized onions, cheese sauce, and veggies on top of a bed of fries. It reminded me of poutine in Canada. While the food was good, the ambience left much to be desired.

La Temeraria

La Temeraria, meaning “bold” or “reckless,” is a vegetarian burger joint just above Parque Rodó. In any country I visit, I always try the veganized national dish. The chivito completo was a warm Uruguayan grinder stuffed with seitan, lettuce, tomato, caramelized onions, aioli, and melted vegan cheese. It came with a side of potato wedges with a dip. Which gave us a lot of energy for the long walk that followed.

Places I loved in Montevideo

After having that delicious chivito completo, Alana and I strolled through the expansive holiday market in Parque Rodó. I’ve been to Christmas markets in Germany, and this is a totally different setting. In Berlin, you’d bundle up and sip on hot drinks as you meander among the dazzling lights. In Montevideo, it’s warm enough to walk without a jacket, and people are drinking mate. Even though it wasn’t as decorated in the holiday spirit as its German counterpart, the market still offered a lot. There were lots of handmade wares: soaps, jewelry, clothes, toys, tinctures, and more. It’s big, it’s friendly, and it’s a great place to do some holiday shopping.

Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales

Further down Parque Rodó is the Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales (National Museum of Visual Arts). This art museum features paintings and sculptures from famous Uruguayan artists from the past and present. Many refined 19th-century oil portraits feature gaucho culture, or Uruguayan cowboys; historical portraits of prominent political figures; landscape paintings, and more. The Museo Nacional thoughtfully links past and modern works in the open space inside. After an afternoon of seeing art, we relaxed in the lush sculpture garden outside. It’s free to enter.

Museo de Arte Precolombino e Indígena

Museo de Arte Precolombino e Indígena (Museum of Pre-Colombian and Indigenous Art), or MAPI, showcases archeological and ethnographic pieces from indigenous tribes throughout the Americas. The museum spans three floors in different rooms, all under a sun-lit glass atrium. One room has an exhibit on the Blackfoot tribe in the United States and details how members of the tribe lived their daily lives. Another exhibit includs tools and handicrafts from the Mapuche tribe in Chile and Argentina. My favorite was the intriguing mask display from various cultures throughout Latin America. There were colorful masks for festivals, carnivals, and theater, as well as traditional celebrations. They were made from various materials, from straw and bone, to plastic, cloth, and found objects. All of them were on a curious wavelength. Some of them were downright creepy! Nonetheless, it was still a striking exhibit.

I also felt that the museum had some room for improvement. Even though the it spanned three floors, many of the rooms were empty. There also wasn’t a lot of information on some of the exhibits. and there weren’t English descriptions for visitors who don’t know Spanish. I still enjoyed what was there. Plus, it was only a block away from the Casa Vegana hostel, so that was easy.

Cafelino Cafe & Adoption Center

There’s nothing I love more than sipping coffee and petting cats at the same time. Cafelino Café has a room full of the sweetest, adoptable kitties. First, I enjoyed coffee before going into the cat room. Then I stepped in for some adorable cat therapy. Since I was one of the first guests, the kitties were well-rested and ready for attention. One of the employees even brought out a four-month-old kitten. Eventually this kitten fell asleep on me! Sometimes I wonder how anyone could hate cats, when they probably just haven’t found the right one. I mean, who could resist a cute, friendly kitten who just wants to love you? I could have stayed there all day.

Final Impressions of Montevideo

After experiencing Montevideo for three days, I would say that it’s a very laid-back city. I’m glad that Alana was there to keep me company. But perhaps three days wasn’t enough. Perhaps there are more hidden gems to be discovered, if I knew more people in this city. Would I come back? Yes, I would, but next time I’d rather explore the neighboring Colonia del Sacramento or Punta del Este.

In the last evening, I walked to the ferry terminal from Casa Vegana. I passed through immigration and boarded the foot ferry to make my final stop in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

A gentle blue wave with white foam rolls on the sunny beach.

World Travel

Chile, Part 2: Viña Del Mar

Viña Del Mar is a city just north of Valparaíso that’s known for its beaches and gardens. Although it’s much smaller, there’s still a lot to do in this little beach city–even for a day trip.

From Valparaíso, you can take the bus, subway or taxi to get to its neighboring city. I went down to the Puerto station and bought a round-trip pass to the Viña Del Mar station. The 20-minute trip meanders along the coastline, so try to snag a window seat to take it all in.

Museums I Loved in Viña Del Mar

The subway stops conveniently a block away from Quinta Vergara park, which features lush tropical gardens, a children’s art museum, and the Museo Palacio Vergara art museum.

Museo Palacio Vergara art museum

Inside a Venetian neo-Gothic palace, the Museo Palacio Vergara houses paintings and sculptures from renowned Chilean artists. The art museum is free to enter, although you need to register as a visitor.

"Las Cuatro Estaciones" painting by Mario Carreño. — “Las Cuatro Estaciones”

There were many notable artworks in this museum, and the ones that caught my attention the most were Mario Carreño’s cubic figures with smooth gradients. Pictured here is a large painting called “Las cuatro estaciones,” which means “the four seasons.” According to the artist, it’s about exploring the unknown with the freedom to exist, when life’s conventions may impose limiting beliefs on the spirit. In the future of uncertainty, we’ll have our inner strength to guide us forward.

Within the same park, a rainbow walkway leads you to a children’s art museum called Museo Artequin. This museum only shows copies of notable artworks instead of the originals. I went in, just to see what’s there. There are some audio explanations on some of the artwork, which helped me practice Spanish listening skills. I didn’t stay for very long, though.

After visiting the park and the museum, I explored more of Viña Del Mar on foot. This city isn’t very big, so it’s easy to get around.

Museo de Artes Decorativas Palacio Rioja

In an 18th-century French-inspired mansion, the Palacio Rioja museum offers a glimpse of Chilean aristrocracy. It was the home of the Spanish businessman, Fernando Rioja, and his family. Inside, the ornate rooms include a grand hall, vaulted ceilings with elegant trims and filigree, multiple lounges, a library, a fancy dining room for special occasions, and so much more. Many decorative arts were showcased, such as imperial Chinese vases and bronze sculptures. A manicured garden has exotic plants from Africa, China, and Brazil. Can you imagine living in a home like this?

Vegan in Viña Del Mar

I was pleasantly surprised to find vegan options in Viña Del Mar. Vegan Place is a restaurant that serves burgers, completos (a loaded hot dog), and empanadas, plus desserts. I had a “green bowl”: a salad topped with tofu, quinoa, and all the veggies. An empanada stuffed with mushrooms and dairy-free cheese made a great side dish, or something to take for later. The food was filling with clean ingredients, without the food coma.

Stocking up at Pulpería Organica Namaste.

Since Christmas was coming up, it was a good idea to bring some gifts home. Pulpería Orgánica Namaste is a vegan health food store that offers supplements, protein powders, and bulk goods such as nuts, dried fruits, and seeds. To bring a taste of Chile back to my friends, I bought a bottle of olive oil harvested locally and a small jar of merquén: a spice blend of smoked ground chiles, cumin, and salt invented by the indigenous Mapuche people.

I was concerned if the olive oil would explode in my checked luggage on the plane. That has happened before with a jar of peanut butter on another trip. The shop owner was so sweet and helpful. She looked up online if a bottle of olive oil would indeed explode. While the results seemed to suggest it, I can happily report that it did not happen. Pro tip: just wrap it well in plastic.

Some chocolate-y snacks also looked good, including a vegansito. I believe they’re a vegan version of the snack cake, Gansitos, which is a cake filled with creme and fruit jelly, and enrobed in dark chocolate.

Beaches

While I’m not always a beach person, it’s where I stopped to take a little break before going back to Valparaíso. Long stretches of beach seemed to go on as far as the eye can see. There are lots of beaches to choose from; I stopped at Playa El Sol. Right beside it is an artisanal street fair offering souvenirs and handicrafts, if you fancy bringing a memento home. Even though it’s summer, the water is still cold. It was a little crowded during the afternoon, since school is out. Lots of kids played in the water and the sand.

Onward to Valpo and Beyond

In the evening, I took the subway train back to Valparaíso and spent one more night there. It was time to move onward to Montevideo, Uruguay. The next morning, I took the bus back to the Pajaritos bus station in Santiago. I thought I could take another bus back to the airport, but couldn’t find the right one. My Spanish skills were put to good use by asking people for tips on how to get there. For $14, a taxi took me instead.

From there, I waited until my flight to Montevideo.

World Travel

Chile Part 1: Valparaíso

Ronnie sits in front of a colorful mural

Hello! It’s been so long! I just came back from a whirlwind trip to South America, where I immersed myself in the Spanish language. A little background on me: when I was 13, I started learning Spanish in school for three years. Afterwards, I stopped speaking the language for 20 years and forgot nearly everything. Then about three years ago, I’ve been relearning it ever since my trip to Spain. I’ve been keeping it up since and can now speak at the B2 (upper intermediate) level. Knowing the language is like a key that opens up that part of the world–empowering the traveler to make connections and navigate around easier.

Chilean pesos, llama keychain, a set of keys, and a passport stamp of entry.

Chile is an interesting pick for Spanish immersion. It’s known to be the hardest dialect, even for native Spanish speakers. For instance, the Chileans often compress an entire sentence into one word. My tour guide even said that Valparaíso comes from, “Él va al paraiso,” which means, “he goes to paradise.” If you compress that, you get Valparaíso. Which makes perfect sense.

The Jewel of the Pacific

Known as the “Jewel of the Pacific,” Valparaíso sits on the blue Pacific Ocean. With a captivating history and a bohemian vibe, the mesmerizing port city is known for its colorful homes, European architecture, and steep hills–all 42 of them.

Overlooking the port, as seen from Pablo Neruda’s home.

The Spaniards founded the city in the 16th century and quickly built it as a prominent trade port between Spain and South America. Valparaíso also established itself as a strategic naval base for the Peruvian and Chilean military. Then in 1848, the gold rush changed everything. Many Europeans stayed there, because there were a lot of job opportunities. Plus, the city was a stop to and from San Francisco. After that, two devastating events happened:

A massive 8.3-magnitude earthquake. The city didn’t have the infrastructure to survive it, and about 4,000 people died.
The Panama Canal opened, which diverted traffic away from Valparaíso.

Earthquakes are something that Chileans are intimately familiar with. In 2010, an 8.8-magnitude earthquake struck, killing at least 500 people and displacing a million. The day before I arrived, there was apparently a noticeable one. People physically felt the ground shake!

The country has been through dictatorships (looking at you, Pinochet), earthquakes, and numerous protests, even in recent history. The last major event was the protests in 2019, where the people wanted a new constitution, which was rejected. Protests during the COVID-19 pandemic extended well into 2023.

Exploring Vibrant Valparaíso

Since it was December when I visited, it’s summer over there. The temperatures were still mild, so I dressed in layers. It can get chilly at night, and my dense fleece jacket was good for those temperatures. During the day, the sun was out and proud, so sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat were a must.

I stayed in Maki Hostel in Cerro Concepción, which was a good base to explore the city’s numerous hills and alleys. An apartment with a kitchen only cost $98 US dollars total for four nights. Plus, the resident cat, Maki, made me feel even more welcome.

To get to know the city, I highly recommend going on walking tours with Tours4Tips, which reveal the highlights and the grittier side of Valparaíso. Just look for a tour guide in a red-and-white striped shirt at Plaza Sotomayor. The highlights tour shows the best of Valparaíso: the funiculars and cuisine, and all the fun facts. The off-beat tour delves into the darker sociopolitical history of the city. They’re almost free; you just tip the tour guide any amount you feel like at the end. I went on both tours in a single day. They were that good!

Getting around was easy and cheap, especially when staying in Cerro Concepción. I mostly walked up and down the hills, which was quite the workout!

There are several funiculars (also known as the “ascensores”) built in the 1900s that will also take you up and down the steep hills. There used to be about 30 funiculars; now five to seven work currently. When building the city, the workers needed a way to get the materials up the hills, so they built the funiculars. Back in the day, they used to work with a hydraulic water system: one part would empty, and the other would fill out. Now the funiculars are all electric. The original admission fee is 100 pesos (about 10 cents). The same price has stayed over the years without inflation.

The Street Art in Valparaíso

Valparaíso is known as the cultural capital of Chile. It’s where artists, activists, poets, and musicians from all walks of life gather to share their collective experience in this country. You’ll find art literally on every corner on the streets. Colorful cobblestone alley ways and stairs interconnect, letting you gleefully lose yourself in the hills. Music plays from the nooks and crannies of the alleys. In a way, this city reminds me a little bit of the street art in Portugal.

In this city, there are three kinds of art:

Tagging: Marking territory to show that someone was here. Gangs used to use it.
Graffiti: Big bubble words that have dimension and gradients.
Murals: Art that requires more technique and skill. Sometimes an artist’s message is obvious, and other times you need more context.

Every corner I turned, there were colorful murals: women with cats, big flowers unfolding under the sun, the people’s fight for equality, and more. For example, in Cerro Concepción, I found a mosaic about the 1907 Iquique Massacre resembling a tarot card. This one was created from glass, ceramics, and mirrors. Nobody knows who made it. The year 1907 was important, because many nitrate miners died in a revolution against their bosses for better working conditions and pay. The president spoke to the head of the military to do something about it. The military opened fire and killed almost 2,000 people. The half-brother of one the workers, Antonio Ramón Ramón, died in this massacre. Ramón Ramón took matters into his own hands and sought after the military leader as an act of revenge. The mosaic represents justice, as seen by the scales here.

Parque Cultural: Creativity From the Ashes of a Former Prison

A former prison, Parque Cultural offers an art, music, and theatre classes, plus concerts, plays, and art galleries. There are also plenty of green spaces to relax.

Before Parque Cultural, this compound used to house political prisoners. In 1970, the democratic socialist Salvador Allende was elected president. It was a big deal, since he was a man of the people. He aimed to promote education, nationalize major institutions, and improve the lives of the working class. However, this didn’t sit well with U.S. interests. In 1973, the CIA supported a coup to oust Allende and replace him with the infamous dictator, Augusto Pinochet.

During the dictatorship, tens of thousands of people went missing, and still thousands are missing today. The prison was a detention center for activists, artists, and any critics who opposed Pinochet. Chile was used as a testing ground for more dictatorships in South America. Eventually, democracy was restored in 1990, but the Chileans still feel a sense of injustice. I can only imagine how that must feel, if your loved ones were kidnapped and never returned. These things are understandably difficult to talk about.

Eventually, Pinochet fell from power, and the inmates took over the prison when it closed in 1999. Then the punk rockers took it over. They cleaned and squatted it, and also played rock shows. There may not be many organized services in Chile, but there’s still a strong sense of community with a shared purpose. In this case, music and art bring people together. After the punks, the circus community tried to get the former prison and offer classes to kids. When the city took it over, there was a bid to change it into something new. Now it’s a park and cultural center.

Mariana Najmanovich
“Animales Sumisos III”
Oil on paper
2024

Today, the cultural center promotes human rights, peaceful coexistence, and education through creative endeavors. The former prisoner cells are now rehearsal rooms for music and theater. If you have a project, you can talk to the administrators to get practice space, as long as you present your work to the community. There’s an expansive garden to set up picnics and spend time with friends and family. In one of the buildings, an art exhibition features paintings and installations.

In a way, it’s like a phoenix: from the metaphorical ashes of a notorious prison comes something sustainable and new. I think it’s beautiful to transform a place of suffering into one that fosters creativity, healing, and community-building.

More Notable Places in Valparaíso

Palacio Baburizza is an art museum that features fine art from the 19th and 20th centuries, housed in an Italian art deco/art nouveau/modernist mansion. The museum exhibits European and Chilean artwork: dramatic seascapes, idyllic landscapes, detailed floral still-lives with thick brush strokes, and portraits of prominent Chilean figures.

The red-and-turquoise art deco home of Pablo Neruda, La Sebastiana, sits on a hillside, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. A renowned poet, Neruda was also a diplomat and a communist politician most famously known for his surrealist writings and love poems. Inspired by ships, the nautical-themed home features seascape paintings, oil portraits, and old maps of Latin America, as well as an adobe-like fireplace and a wooden carousel horse. Start at the bottom floor and listen to the audio tour, as you work your way up this unique home.

Vegan food in Valparaíso

Eating vegan was very easy in Valparaíso. Whenever I travel, I try the veganized local dish–whatever is popular.

The vegetarian restaurant, La Boca Del Oso, offers a vegan chorillana. Traditionally, chorillana is comfort food consisting of a bed of French fries topped with different kinds of meat, caramelized onions, and a fried egg. Essentially, it’s a heart attack on a plate. This vegan version had fries with stir-fried tofu and veggies. It was exactly what I needed after walking up and down hills all day!

Just up the street in a purple building is an artsy vegan cafe, Violeta Dulcería Vegana. This cozy and colorful place offers teas and elixirs in quirky handmade mugs with faces. I had pastel con choclo, literally meaning “corn pie.” This popular Chilean dish is a corn and beef casserole with mushrooms, olives, onions, and spices. This vegan version was filling and energizing, without the food coma that you’d get from heavier food. This place is a great spot for lunch, whether you’re vegan or omnivore.

Vegan options were plentiful in other places, too. Many cafes offer a vegan option, such as empanadas and pastries. Street vendors sell fresh bread and avocados for super cheap. You can easily get fresh fruits and veggies from any frutería, or fruit stand.

Ronnie sits on a red staircase and feeds a black cat, while an orange-and-white cat looks on.

Coffee is abundant in Valparaíso. I love going to cat cafes, and found Michi Escala en Cerro Concepción. As I sipped an americano, two of the kitties came to greet me. The cafe owner handed some treats over for me to feed them. There’s also a third cat, though she went off elsewhere. Cats and coffee are always great together.

A City to Remember

What can I say, I truly loved Valparaíso: the brilliantly painted alleys and stairs, the bustling energy of the streets, the numerous stray cats and dogs, and the pulsing creativity that brings the city together. People were so warm and kind, even after what the country has been through over the last two centuries. The sunny summer days in December were also a sharp contrast to the cold and damp winter days in Seattle.

I stayed in Chile for four nights, saving Viña Del Mar for a day. Soon I’ll share what this little beach town is all about. ¡Hasta luego!