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World Travel

Eurotrip 2022: Paris, France

Bonjour! I have returned to Paris, France as part of Eurotrip 2022.

The last time I was in that city was in December 2018, and even then, it was a whirlwind tour through France. To be honest, my first impression of Paris wasn’t very good. During that time, Paris was cold, dark and gray. Maybe people weren’t in the best mood because it was winter. Then again, I only spent two nights there, so I missed a lot of what makes the city special. I made it a point to revisit, because some things are worth giving another go.

This time, I visited when it’s warm, vibrant, and green. Paris has truly come to life in the summer, which goes to show that sometimes things need a second chance. Maybe revisiting a place needs to come from a different perspective, or a different season. Coming back here was the right choice, because now I can see what Paris truly has to offer.

Art in Paris: The Museums

Since I’m still in the second week of Eurotrip 2022, I have found that it’s important to pace myself when going to museums. Paris has many landmarks, museums, and history to uncover, and it’s tempting to try to do as much as possible. After all, it is exciting to delve into the extensive political and artistic history of this legendary city. But one thing I’ve noticed is that I’m experiencing the first stages of museum burn-out. So, this time I just selected two art museums to go to. There will be more art museums to visit later this trip.

The Louvre

The Louvre is the most visited art museum in the world, and it houses the most famous works of art such as the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. It’s inside the Louvre Palace, a 13th-century fortress, and you can see the remnants of the fortress in the lowest floor of the museum. It has expanded since, and today it offers the huge art collection that we see today.

The Louvre exhibits cover a wide time period, spanning from the beginning of ancient civilizations (Roman, Greek, Egyptian) to up to the 19th century. The museum is so massive, that you can easily spend the entire day in there–or even two days if you really want to stop and take your time. As with most museums, I highly recommend buying your tickets in advance to avoid waiting in line. Instead, you can go through security and the entrance fairly quickly.

Of course, I wasn’t going to check out of this life without seeing Leonardo di Vinci’s “Mona Lisa”–arguably the world’s most famous painting, which, by the way, is smaller than I expected.

And then there’s the Venus de Milo sculpture, another iconic masterpiece from my art history days.

Then there’s the ornate Apollo Room, which was the model of the Palace of Versailles Hall of Mirrors. Personally, it beats taking the trip all the way out to Versailles.

I ended up spending five hours at the Louvre! That’s the only thing I did for the entire day. To be honest, while I loved it, limiting the number of museums I visited this time was good for me because it can be sensory overload after a while. When I saw less museums, I could take my time in them more and really appreciate what humanity is capable of creating.

The Centre Pompidou

The Centre Pompidou has such a unique architecture, and I have never seen anything quite like it. Colorful pipes stories high wrap vertically around the glass museum, while on the other side, an escalator in a clear tube zig-zags up the avant-garde building. This innovative facade is a real testament to the modern art it houses, ranging from Surrealism to Dada art genres.

This exhibition at the Centre Pompidou featured multiple works by the renowned fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent, who created dresses inspired by the artworks of the modern artists.

Piet Mondrian “Composition en rouge, bleu et blanc II”

There were several installations, which I loved. This one was my absolute favorite.

Yaacov Agam “Aménagement de l’antichambre des appartements privés du Palais de l’Élysée pour le président Georges Pompidou”

There’s even an entire library dedicated to the acclaimed abstract artist, Vassily Kandinsky, that’s open by appointment only for those with proper research credentials.

Vegan Food Tour in Paris with Thory and Tom

As an introvert, I have no problem with enjoying my own company and imaginative world. Being a solo traveler, I can do many things on my own terms and be in full control of these plans. Doing all of this on my own has been truly an empowering experience, because I have learned to tap into the inner resources and take initiative. But after a while, I have been feeling a little bit of loneliness and decision fatigue.

My best friend Karim introduced me to his French friend, Thory. And then Thory introduced me to her friend, Tom. I am not familiar with French food, especially since most of it isn’t vegan. But Thory and Tom knew all the best spots in town. Thory graciously planned out an entire vegan food tour for us to try.

Urban Greener

We met at Urban Greener by the neighborhood of Montemartre. It’s a snug bistro that offered brunch that Saturday morning. Thory and I got the Tofu Benedict, while Tom enjoyed his pancakes. My Tofu Benedict was on a slightly sweet pancake, so the contrast between sweet and savory was a flavorful balance.

Getting around Paris with friends and food

After brunch, we walked up hilly Montmartre to the grand Sacre Coeur Basilica. When we made it back down to the other side of the hill, Thory suggested we rent scooters and zip through Paris.

Riding on a scooter is definitely better than walking! It opened up a greater sense of freedom, as Thory navigated us through the leafy streets of Paris. Sharing the road with cars and bikes, while dodging lamp posts, traffic barriers, and parked cars, was part of the exhilarating fun, as wind whipped through my long purple hair. Never mind that I am 35 years old. Riding a scooter in Paris made me feel young and free again…maybe even a little dangerous.

There was another vegan cafe called Copper Branch. I got a peanut butter brownie. Unfortunately, I was so excited to eat it that I forgot to take a photo!

At a stoplight, I turned my head to the left and saw this iconic 13th-century cathedral.

“Is that…the Notre Dame?” I asked.

“Ouiiiii!” Thory said.

The Notre Dame is yet another landmark building, an excellent example of Gothic architecture–which is characterized by flying buttresses, pointed arches, ornate details, and stained glass. It caught on fire several years ago, and it’s still closed to the public. And we just happened to pass by it!

Land & Monkeys

Tom eventually had to leave for work, so it was just Thory and me. We went to Land & Monkeys, which is a vegan French bakery that sells all sorts of pastries and desserts. I was blown away by how many choices they were! I had to get the cinnamon roll, pain au chocolat, and a type of long brioche with chocolate chips.

Aujourd‘hui Demain

Our last stop was at Aujourd’hui Demain, a vegan clothing shop, bistro, and grocery store all under one roof. This might be the first time I’ve seen a multi-purpose vegan establishment like this!

The Selfish Burger: a burger so good, that it lives up to the fact that you don’t want to share.

I had the unforgettable Selfish Burger, which is a vegan fish filet sandwich with micro greens, pesto, and tangy tartar sauce inside fluffy brioche bread. It was pretty hard to decide what to get, because everything looked so vibrant, nourishing, and flavorful.

Au Revoir, Paris

I’m so glad that I had returned to Paris! A city as elegant as this one deserved a second chance, that’s for sure. Sometimes all it takes is a different approach and a mind open enough to look past the first impressions. Paris is indeed brighter this time of year, and more welcoming and ready to have you.

World Travel

Eurotrip 2022: Venice, Italy

Venice (or Venezia, as the locals call it) is a legendary city where the 14th century came and literally never left. It has been described as the most beautiful city in the world, with its treasure trove of art, architecture, and political and military history.

Where I Stayed and How I Got Around in Venice

Some stuff from Rome, but mostly mementos from Venezia

I stayed for four full days and three nights, which felt like enough to visit Venice. One thing to consider is that many of the museums and attractions I was interested in are closed on Mondays.

For the museums, I purchased the Venezia Unica All-City pass for about €50, which grants access to 13 museums throughout Venice, and many more attractions. It pays for itself quite quickly and gives the best bang for your buck. However, it doesn’t work for all museums in Venice, such as the Gallerie dell’Academia art museum or the Biennale exhibit; you have to buy those separately. It’s also a separate pass from the vaporetto, or water bus.

Rialto Bridge goes over the Grand Canal. Notice the vaporetto station in the background.

Venice is a pedestrian-only town that’s a cluster of little islands separated by canals and connected with bridges. I mostly walked around, although having a 72-hour vaporetto pass was useful. Venice is a labyrinth of walkways, so my phone with Google Maps and GPS came in very handy—especially when I inevitably got lost.

I scored this lovely room by Saint Mark’s Piazza. This traditional room features bright orange brocade wallpaper and exposed-beam ceilings, retaining its old-world charm. Usually I prefer hostels to stay within budget, but…this is Venice. This was the perfect yet affordable place to stay.

Venice is very crowded during the day! There are often pedestrian traffic jams in the narrow alleys. As an introvert, crowds can feel overwhelming at times. So I would wake up every day before sunrise to enjoy a little quiet time before the morning rush. Piazza San Marco is tranquil as the sun comes up, as the street workers sweep the city walkways.

My Favorite Places in Venice

Here are some of my favorite places in Venice.

Libreria Acqua Alta

Libreria Acqua Alta is a cozy vintage bookstore, and a must for any book or cat lover. Upon entering, you can smell the musty old pages; the bookshop has sustained years of flooding. This gem is full of personality and features the iconic stairs that are made of older, damaged books. You can find many second-hand or out-of-print books here. Five cats also live in the establishment, which adds to the shop’s charm.

La Tecia Vegana

Venice isn’t really known for vegan food, and it’s been slim pickings. But there’s one vegan restaurant on the northwestern part of the city called La Tecia Vegana.

La Tecia Vegana offers a multi-course Italian meal: starters, first course, main course, sides, and dessert. The portions are just a little smaller so that you can pick and choose your courses for the full meal. Or you can just have one and call it good.

I picked the seitan and mushroom black and white ravioli as the first course, and roasted seitan with whole wheat and dried fruit as the main course. I paused between bites to notice the various flavors: oregano, onion, garlic, the slight nuttiness of olive oil, and the sweet dried fruit contrasting the savory gravy of the seitan roast.

Museums in Venice

Since Venice is full of history and wonder, the museums throughout the city showcase great works throughout time.

Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale)

Standing before the Doge Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica

Doge’s Palace is the opulent 14th-century Gothic palace that was the heart of political life and the seat of power of Venice. It’s where the duke—the supreme leader of the city back then—would reside. You can tour through the various chambers that display large-scale paintings on ceilings and walls, plus the creepy prison underground.

Gallerie dell’Academia

Giambattista Tiepolo “L’esaltazione della Croce”

The Gallerie dell’Academia is an art gallery that displays art before the 19th century. It’s housed in a former art academy that taught figure, portrait, landscape, and sculpture. Today, it’s focused on preserving and exhibiting artwork.

Oddly enough, it’s where Leonardo di Vinci’s famous work, Vitruvian Man, lives. But it’s rarely displayed to the public, since the work, which is on paper, is fragile and sensitive to light.

Ca’Rezzonico

I could crane my neck and look at these beauties all day.

The ornate Ca’Rezzonico museum shows fine art and furniture of 18th-century rococo Venice, such as oil portraits of aristocratic society to colorful Murano-made glass chandeliers. I thought all of it was so beautiful. You get a glimpse of what aristocratic Venetian life was like during that time.

Burano

As the vaporetto pulls up to the docking station in Burano, the bright, multi-colored houses emerge from the horizon, greeting you. Burano is a small fishing island that is best known for its colorful homes and lacework. Like Venice, it’s made of tiny islands with bridges and canals. There’s even an entire lace museum dedicated to the craft. But lace-making dwindled because it’s so expensive and time-consuming. As an aside, the other island, Murano, is best known for its glass-blowing.

I took the hour-long Vaporetto ride to Burano. This island, with its 2,400 residents, is small enough to walk the circumference in an hour. I wonder what it’s like growing up on an island that small?

I spent a couple hours walking around Burano and admiring the multi-colored houses. The patches of grassy areas looking out towards the lagoon, the leaning clock tower, and little shops offering small lace artwork moved me. Then I visited the lace museum. For food, there weren’t many vegan options available, but I did find a shop called Dai Fradei that offers vegan gelato.

Handmade lace from the Burano Lace Museum

Biennale Art Exhibit in Venice

La Biennale is an enormous international art and cultural exhibition hosted in Venice every year. This year’s theme was “The Milk of Dreams,” an interplay between imagination and the human condition asking intriguing questions of how we as a world can coexist and depend on one another—especially when navigating the pandemic, social and political tensions, and the threat of climate change.

The exhibit is set in the buildings within the Arsenale and Biennale Gardens, a 10-minute walk apart—making this is an all-day affair. The whole show was incredible. Here are some of my favorite works.

Leaving Venice

Somewhere I read that Venice is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The real setting is more elegant than what the photos can ever show. Every little detail and corner offers beauty, intrigue, and a story. On my last day, I took one more look around, searing the details into my memory.

This is a unique city that I will never forget.

World Travel

Eurotrip 2022: Rome, Italy

Ciao! Rome is my first stop in Italy of this 2022 Eurotrip. Here’s a fun fact about me: I am one-quarter Italian, and I’ve always wanted to visit the last country of my heritage. The love for food, art, and living la dolce vita (the sweet life) runs deep in my family—it’s in my blood. As a food-motivated creative person, I have picked the right place.

Rome is one of the birthplaces of Western civilization. It’s the epicenter of great food, art, architecture, engineering, wine (if you drink alcohol), and romance. My background is in fine art, and many art history classes have drilled iconic buildings such as the Colosseum and Pantheon into our psyches. It has been a surreal experience to see all of these art history lessons come to life!

Main Attractions in Rome

These are several attractions that I’ve visited. I highly recommend:

Purchasing tickets online in advance to avoid waiting in line for hours
Bringing a water bottle to fill up. It gets warmer this time of year, and there are fountains throughout the city
Wearing comfortable clothes and shoes, because you’ll be walking a lot
Visiting some attractions early if you want to avoid crowds

Colosseum

The iconic Colosseum is the largest and oldest amphitheater in the world. It was mainly used as a battleground for gladiator matches, where the opponents fight to the death. Being inside one of the greatest buildings felt like I was in a history book.

After my visit to the Colosseum, I visited the expansive ancient ruins of Palatine Hill, the legendary site where the city was founded. You’ll find the remnants of temples, Roman imperial palaces, and baths. It really felt like going back 3,000 years.

Vatican City

Vatican City is technically its own country with its own passport, post office, and even football team that’s separate from Italy. But you don’t need a passport to go in. The country is a religious site and is ruled by the Pope of the Catholic Church.

You should set aside a full day to visit the Vatican. The Vatican Museums alone cover about eight miles. That’s a lot of ground to cover! It’s possible to see the important stuff in a day, but you might need two days if you really want to take everything in.

For me, the most important thing at the Vatican was seeing the grand frescos of the Sistine Chapel. Michelangelo, one of the greatest Renaissance artists, painted the Biblical story. One of the most famous pieces is the “Creation of Adam,” a fresco that we’ve seen time and time again in those art history classes. Now I got to see it with my own eyes!

Fresco is an unforgiving material to work with. It involves painting with pigmented plaster, and the artist must work quickly before it dries and becomes part of the wall. So, seeing an entire vaulted chapel’s ceiling painted with Biblical imagery astounded me, leaving me in wonder of how humanity is capable of creating such masterpieces that stand the test of time.

Afterwards, I went inside St. Peter’s Basilica. St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest church in the world and is one of the greatest works of Renaissance architecture by Michelangelo. It’s considered one of the holiest Catholic places. It also holds the tomb of St. Peter, who is the head of Jesus’s 12 disciples and the first Pope. Even though I’m a non-believer, I was in awe of the interior. It took 150 years and an incalculable cost to build a church so magnificent.

Trevi Fountain

The baroque 18th-century Trevi Fountain is one of the famous fountains in the world. The dramatic stone sculptures interplay with the flowing water. The Roman aqueducts carry water to the fountain to this day. The Trevi Fountain is very well maintained. Because it’s so popular, I recommend going early to beat the rush. Don’t forget to toss a coin into the fountain, and remember: if it’s not baroque, then don’t fix it. 😉

Pantheon

The Pantheon is nearby. You can visit the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps in one go, since they’re close to each other. I was randomly walking through the cobblestone streets, turned a corner, and there it was!

The Pantheon was originally a Roman temple, before it was converted to a Catholic Church in the year 609 A.D. The columned portico has deeply influenced Western architecture, as seen in universities, banks, public libraries, and government buildings. I am in love with this magnificent building.

The inside is under an unreinforced concrete dome with the open oculus at the center: an open hole that lets in natural light. The interior is designed so that it could fit a perfect sphere—which is engineering at its finest. It blows me away that all of this was constructed without modern technology.

Spanish Steps

The 135 Spanish Steps starts at the Piazza di Spagna at the base and goes up to the Trinità dei Monti church at the top. In the Spring, they are covered with potted azaleas.

Just like the Trevi Fountain, if you want to have it almost to yourself, visit around 7:30 a.m.

Things to do in Rome

As always, great vegan food, art, and cats always call to me. Here are some noteworthy places.

Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary

Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary is an outdoor cat sanctuary among the ancient Roman Torre Argentina ruins—where Julius Caesar is thought to be assassinated.

All of the cats in this sanctuary have been abandoned. While many of these cats are missing eyes, ears, and limbs, they are well-fed and taken care of. All of the cats have been sterilized and vaccinated, and most of them can be adopted. The cats roam freely among the ruins, living their best lives. They chase birds, nap peacefully inside flower pots, and purr happily from pets and attention.

It’s free to visit, although consider making a donation so that Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary can continue to do good work to help these cats.

Romeow Cat Bistrot

I had the most exquisite meal at Romeow Cat Bistro, a vegan restaurant where you can dine with cats. Several cats live in this establishment, and they roam around while guests eat. This is a place where you really slow down and immerse yourself in the present.

Inside, the artwork by Sara Paglia graces the trendy interior. Cat beds are in corners, and some cats amble from one part of the dining room to the next.

A proper Italian meal is much more relaxed and lengthy than an American meal. Lunch is often considered the most important meal of the day, and it usually lasts for an hour or two. Italians often have a very light breakfast, so they come hungry for lunch time–and for good reason. Because this multi-course meal will fill you up.

The starter was a savory ball that reminded me of a cornbread ball, or a hushpuppy. The yellow cream reminded me of a vegan Hollandaise sauce.

First course: spaghetti with pear compote

The first course was spaghetti in a macadamia nut cream sauce with wild pepper. I rolled several noodles around my fork and ate slowly, the noting the texture and flavor of the spaghetti. It had a hint of garlic, an important ingredient in Italian cuisine. The wild pear compote had a hint of bergamot orange powder. To me, the pear compote tamed the garlic aftertaste, balancing out the savory flavors of the pasta.

Main course: marinara jackfruit with sweet potatoes and seaweed

The main course was an Italian-Japanese fusion: a bed of marinara jackfruit wrapped in a nori strip, with seaweed on top, surrounded by four breaded sweet potato slices and pesto sauce. The delicate savory flavor of this course married into the stringy texture of the hearty jackfruit in the tomato marinara.

During the main course, this white cat jumped onto my table! I felt honored, since mine was the only one where a cat blessed me with their presence like that. The server gently shooed him off, but I would have let him stay.

Dessert, the final course, was a matcha parfait with a raspberry sauce, an almond sablé (cookie), and a pistachio tuile (wafer), and garnished with fresh raspberries. I loved the brilliant green parfait contrasting with the red raspberries. The soft parfait was the consistency of gelato, but less cold and more dense. The creaminess offered a contrast to the crunchy tuile and sablé.

I loved everything: the food, the cats, the interior, all of it! Life is too short to not slow down every once in a while and soak up what you enjoy the most.

You must make a reservation for lunch and dinner to eat at Romeow Cat Bistrot. They are closed during certain hours of the day as well, so make sure to review the hours before contacting them.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Dorothy Circus Gallery is a beacon of pop surrealism art in Rome, a visionary and magical experience in an inviting room with red velvet walls, the color symbolizing life and birth. Pop surrealism is a genre of contemporary art. The otherworldly details provoke curiosity and a shared sense of wonder through dreamlike imagery. Artists include Camille Rose Garcia, Camilla D’Errico, and Hikari Shimoda.

Dorothy Circus Gallery also has another location in London, which I have visited.

Ciao, Rome!

Rome has been such a charming city, offering plenty of places to nerd out and immerse myself in history. This is a city that I would love to revisit in the future. The architecture, ruins, food, art, cats, and everything in between stem from passion from the artists, architects, chefs, and engineers who create them, whether in ancient times or modern day.

I’ve been loving Italy so far. The way Italians speak, with their rhythmic vocalizations, sounds like poetry–even if they are talking about mundane things. The more relaxed attitude towards having meals is winning me over. Also, Rome loves their cats. My next stop is in Venice, and I’m so excited to explore the area. It looks different from Rome, and I’ll report my findings. Ciao!

Eurotrip 2022: Vancouver, Canada

Two years ago, I had planned to embark on a six-week Eurotrip, visiting Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, UK, and then finally ending the trip with the Vancouver Marathon. Then the pandemic stopped the world, as countries closed their borders in an effort to contain the virus. The travel bans happened two days before I was supposed to depart.

Most of our lives were in limbo the last two years. I wasn’t sure if I would ever be able to make the trip up. Sometimes good things come to those who wait.

It helped to wait an extra month after my work contract ended, too. In the past month, more COVID-19 travel restrictions have lifted for most of the countries I’m visiting. As of today, negative Covid tests for vaccinated travelers are no longer needed for Canada, UK, Italy, France, and Spain. I will need to have a negative test for Portugal, and another for coming back to the U.S. Travelers still need to bring proof of vaccination, too.

As always, I prefer to pack on the lighter side. The less things I take with me, the easier it is to travel. All I need are:

Several tops and bottoms, plus a dress, to mix and match stylish goth outfits
My computer and charging cables
Vegan travel-sized toiletries
Four pairs of shoes: walking shoes, flats, running shoes, and flip flops.
A fast-drying microfiber towel
Journal and art supplies
A stuffed animal that’s a replica of my BFF Brad’s cat, Bug. He’s my travel buddy.
Running tops and bottoms
A swimsuit
An electrical outlet adapter
Vegan toiletries
Passport and wallet
A Covid-19 test for coming back to the United States
KN-95 masks

My clothes, shoes, toiletries, and pandemic supplies can fit into my 50-liter purple Osprey backpack. All electronics, essential documents, and art supplies go into my smaller bag.

In my previous visits, I would whirl through the city like a spinning top. This time, I took my time and meandered through the Vancouver—it’s best to save energy for the marathon. There’s no need to cram everything in, especially when the city is close enough to Seattle. I can come back any time.

Vancouver is so great. It’s like Seattle’s Canadian cousin, offering ample places to run, cat cafes, and even more vegan options!

Vancouver Marathon

It’s technically my 11th full marathon, since I ran that one 50K.

I kicked off this solo adventure with my 12th marathon in Vancouver. Two years ago, I was registered to run the Vancouver Marathon at the end of the Eurotrip. Then it turned virtual, in an effort to keep everyone safe. This time, I moved the race to the beginning of the trip. It’s so much better to get it out of the way, rather than training for it in Europe.

The Vancouver Marathon is one of the prettiest courses I’ve ever run. Of course, chances are that anywhere you run in the Pacific Northwest, it will be beautiful. This marathon was under verdant, flowering tree canopies, and along the harbor and beaches. It went around Stanley Park before finishing among the shiny glass buildings in downtown Vancouver.

Vegan food in Vancouver

As a marathon runner, I’m always on the hunt for vegan food. Thankfully, getting enough calories while maintaining a cruelty-free diet is easy to do in Vancouver.

Here are a few of my favorite places.

The Kind Cafe & Eatery

The Kind Cafe is a hip vegan eatery with a great name: you can live kindly by choosing a vegan lifestyle where no animals are harmed. One that’s best for the environment and your health. That’s what being vegan is about: living and eating your values while making a world a better place.

This place emanates life with ample natural light, many plants, and loft seating.

I had the energizing tempeh taco bowl. This protein-packed power bowl had black beans, seasoned tempeh, pickled red onions, shredded purple cabbage, julienned cucumbers, and cauliflower—plus it was drizzled with a special sauce. The tangy pickled veggies perfectly complimented the full-bodied dressing. The cabbage and cauliflower delivered a nice crunch in every bite. This is exactly what I needed.

MeeT at Gastown

Korean-style poutine hits the spot perfectly

If you’re worried about missing all of your favorite food by going vegan, MeeT has you covered. This trendy spot has veganized all of your favorite dishes, ranging from burgers to Canada’s national dish, poutine.

I visited MeeT for dinner after the marathon. After every marathon, you should always treat yourself, whether you did well or so-so. Their menu has an entire poutine section, so I tried the vegan Korean-style poutine: French fries smothered with savory veggie gravy and melty cheese, plus topped with kimchi, nori strips, and sliced green onions. It had the perfect salt, fat, carb, and protein ratio that sated my tired body.

Bonus Bakery

Bonus Bakery is a modern, snug bakery that serves soft gourmet vegan cookies and pastries. The white, silver, and yellow interior—with their yellow star logo—was quite charming, as were their array of delectable vegan baked goods.

It’s best to go to Bonus right as they open. They seem to sell out fast, and for good reason. I got birthday cake and cinnamon roll cookies, plus a croissant that was still warm.

Catfé

Catfé is an adorable cat cafe that I’ll always stop by whenever there’s a chance. This cafe features about 10 sweet adoptable cats, an adorable gift shop, a mini cat art gallery, and a cafe offering coffee drinks and snacks.

I made friends with this black kitty. She was my favorite! Black cats are so underrated. Did you know that they are the least adopted? Maybe it’s because people are superstitious and think that black cats bring bad luck. Maybe people just don’t like the color black. Black cats are just as worthy of love as the others. This little one loved playing with the feather wand.

Of course, the other cats were friendly, too. I also have a soft spot in my heart for tabbies, as seen above.

I highly recommend making a reservation well in advance before visiting, since there’s a good chance the capacity for visitors will be full. As of today, it costs $18 CAD for an hour visit. The drinks and snacks are a little extra.

I enjoyed my time in Vancouver, and couldn’t think of a better way to kick off this Eurotrip with another marathon! I’m currently en route to Rome via a 22-hour layover in London. There will be more art, cats, vegan food, and more. I’m so excited to report my findings soon!

Vancouver: Seattle’s Canadian Cousin

A whirlwind 40-hour trip to Vancouver, British Columbia is just what a girl needs sometimes. Granted, Vancouver is like Seattle’s Canadian cousin in every possible way. Every once in a while, there’s a desire to get lost.

Getting around, where to stay

I arrived to Vancouver via Bolt Bus. This trip was so last minute that most of the hostels were booked, except for St. Clair Hotel-Hostel. I was willing to spend a little extra this time, since the location was right in the city center.

When it comes to getting around the city, using a Compass card can make it easier. It’s a pass that gives you access to the public transit system, such as buses and the SkyTrain. As of today, it’s $10.25 CAD for a day pass.

The first night in Vancouver

Vegan food or bust!

One of my favorite things to do is eating my way through a new city. The first thing I did was go to Indigo Age Cafe and tried their delicious salad wrap with mixed greens. It gave me lots of energy for the rest of the night, as I walked through the city. The restaurant also offers vegan high tea, but it needs to be reserved in advance.

For dessert, I went to Vegan Pudding & Co right next door, where you can find coconut- and soy-based puddings. There are classic flavors such as chocolate and vanilla, and then there are Japanese-inspired flavors such as matcha and sesame. They provide complimentary whipped cream if you want to eat it immediately. It’s smooth and silky, as pudding should be.

The second day

I woke up early and had breakfast before running to Stanley Park, a lap around it, and back to the hostel. The 400-hectare public park features beaches, lush gardens and attractions throughout, as well as historic landmarks and a restaurant. I just stayed on the main walking path that morning, which is 10 km.

I went to the Vancouver Art Gallery, where there are multiple rotating exhibitions. My favorite current show there is Moving Still: Performative Photography in India, where photography is used to explore themes of gender, cultural identity, and migration.

Currently, the Vancouver International Jazz Festival is also happening in Downtown, right in front of the art gallery.

Vancouver Vegan

For lunch, I went to Virtuous Pie, a vegan pizzeria that seems to be a favorite for both vegans and omnivores alike. The cheesiest pizza on the menu is called Grandma Pie, and it was such melty goodness. With pizza that good, it’s easy to see why people flock there.

Later for dinner, I stopped by Wallflower to eat vegan poutine smothered in vegetable-based gravy and cheese sauce. When in another country, you might as well try the dish it’s best known for. It hit the spot.

Meow, meow, meow

Of course, the Vancouver visit wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Catfé. This cafe had 15 cats when I went in, and they were all so overwhelmingly cute. It’s recommended to reserve for a spot in advance, because those can fill up fast.

These were not vegan, but they’re still cute.

Catfé also sells coffee and pastries, such as these Hello Kitty-shaped macarons. They aren’t vegan, but they sure are adorable. I got a slice of vegan peppermint chocolate cake instead. We could take our food in, but we’d have to make sure the cats wouldn’t get to it.

Street art in Vancouver

I mostly walked around Commercial Drive and Mt. Pleasant, known to be two artsy areas in the city. Both have incredible street art that liven up the neighborhoods. Vancouver also has its own mural festival, which is one big street art party spanning over a week in August. The results are beautiful.

Pride weekend

Vancouver was also having a little Pride celebration in one of the parks along Commercial Drive. There were so many colorful people and I felt right at home! Then again, the city is just like Seattle.

Winding down with the city

I was on my way back to the hostel from Mt. Pleasant when I stopped by Aperture Coffee Bar, a trendy cafe with rustic touches. Sometimes you just need a pick-me-up after running and walking all day. They have a library, and it’s a little cozy, but the vibe is chill and friendly.

Places in Vancouver generally close a little early, say around 6:00 to 8:00. Some places might be open later. I’m not really the type of person who stays out late often anyway. It was such an amazing full day, and the health app on my iPhone said that I walked and ran a total of 19 miles!

One last walk around

The next morning, I walked through Gastown as the city was waking up. Gastown is a historic district dating from the 19th century, and it was known as Vancouver’s downtown. Today, the remnant Victorian buildings now feature art galleries, souvenir shops, restaurants, and chic cocktail lounges. It’s akin to Seattle’s Pioneer Square neighborhood.

For breakfast, I had a vegan Earl Grey doughnut from Cartems Donuts. They have several vegan flavors, such as chocolate, vanilla, and maple walnut.

I went back to Seattle later that morning. Even though I did the exact same things as I would in Seattle, sometimes there’s a desire to wander around in an unfamiliar city without knowing a soul. Getting lost and finding one’s way back again is what someone might need occasionally, if only to come back bright-eyed with pleasant experiences. I can’t wait to come back.

Eurotrip 2018, Part 4: Prague, Czech Republic

The final stop of this Eurotrip takes place in Prague, Czech Republic. Prague is a city I kept hearing about through friends and artists. It’s one that boasts a strong arts scene as well as its own long political and cultural history.

Felt like home

I stayed in the Old Town of Prague, right in the thick of the action. Tucked away on a quiet street is an unassuming hotel called Bed&Books Art Hotel. It’s where I spent my first night. The vintage-chic decor and the Czech books made me feel right at home, a good environment to get work done.

The next place I stayed was at Art Hole Hostel. If you’re looking for a quirky, lively place to stay in Prague without it getting too crazy, then Art Hole is for you. The hostel is friendly and welcoming, plus the staff make you feel right at home. It caters to a younger crowd (age 35-ish and younger), but they seem to welcome anyone. This place is also introvert-friendly; the energy is mellow. The murals also make the space feel more like a home away from home, especially in the lounge.

The Wi-Fi is strong, and there’s free breakfast. Art Hole also hosts nightly dinners. There’s a kitchen that anyone can use, including an oven to bake vegan pizzas in! Free hot drinks are available all day, everyday. There’s a small bookstore/exchange library as well.

Exploring some of Old Town

Many times, I have to use Google Maps to help me navigate through a city or find my way back to a hostel. Prague is one of those cities where I barely did that. The city felt intuitive and easy to navigate, like I knew where I was going.

There was the Christmas market in Old Town Square, which features the Astronomical Clock.

There were also many alleyways with little shops and mini-museums around Old Town as well.

This barely fit into the frame of the camera.

Prague Castle (close enough to Old Town, but isn’t part of it) was one of those places I almost skipped, until someone insisted that seeing it is a must. The sheer size of the Gothic 9th-century castle was astonishing. I could stand there all day and survey all of the pointed arches, flying buttresses, stained glass windows, and mosaics. Calling this “incredible” or “amazing” doesn’t quite cut it. A castle this grand feels like time has stopped.

A good day for a run

Prague was a wonderful place to go running. It’s a great way to see the city, especially Letna Park. It was also snowing! Here is a beautiful restaurant I accidentally found during a run. That’s the beauty of running in a city; you never know what you might find.

Prague Vegan

Eating vegan is exceptionally easy in Prague. Like Amsterdam, many things are clearly labeled as such, and there are plenty of places to eat. Loving Hut, an international vegan restaurant chain, seems to be very popular in Prague. There are several locations in close proximity. Although much of this food is fried or seems to have loads of sugar, it felt oddly nourishing. Below the Loving Hut restaurant is a vegan health store called World Vegan. Can I stay in Prague forever?

Art with Czech Roots

In Old Town, there is the Gallery of Art Prague showing the Art Nouveau illustrator/designer, Alphonse Mucha and Andy Warhol’s work. This exhibition also dedicates an entire floor to Warhol’s Czechoslovak roots and family history. It’s the kind of stuff we don’t hear in art history classes.

Pushing reset

Honestly, it has been a tough year. Before I left for this Eurotrip, a friend quipped, “traveling isn’t going to solve your problems.”

On the surface, he had a point. I think what he meant was that you can’t just run away forever. However, what he seemed to miss was that traveling comes up with all sorts of problem-solving opportunities that can spur growth in one’s mental health. Leaving the country for a little bit also helps to clear up my fogged-up head, since I’m constantly making sense of new information and surroundings. Encountering new languages, people, sounds, smells, and settings makes me more alert, so it’s hard to stay on auto-pilot. To answer my friend’s point, in the short-term, traveling might not solve anyone’s problems immediately. But in the long run, the lasting changes in the mind are sustainable and beneficial to anyone traveling and to those around them as well.

Eurotrip 2018, Part 3: Amsterdam, Netherlands

Whereas France was a whirlwind tour, Amsterdam provided a chance to take it a little more slowly.

Amsterdam uses bikes to get around, just like how Southeast Asia uses motorbikes. I considered hiring a bike to get around the city. Usually how I get to know the area is by walking or running, and taking the environment through the senses. When riding a bike, it’s hard to take it all in, since the focus must be on the road.

What is also hilarious is that sometimes people will start singing on top of their lungs. No big deal. Some people text and ride. Some even have small children on their handlebars. No one wears helmets, but everyone is fine. It’s all an organized chaos.Â These are kinds of things you can get away with in Amsterdam, but they would never fly in Seattle. Maybe I should write another blog post about that. (Ha!)

On being vegan in Amsterdam

I first stayed at Firejuice, a queer-owned vegan bed-and-breakfast. It’s run by this very sweet queer couple, Ben and Sonia. I met Ben four years ago during my first visit here, and he was talking about it. Now I got to see it for myself! The vegan breakfasts they make are guaranteed to energize the body and mind. Firejuice isn’t exactly your grandma’s B&B, but the space is quaint, beautifully decorated, and emanates good energy. What’s not to love?

Being in Amsterdam was the cleanest I have eaten during this Eurotrip. It’s very easy to eat vegan here. Everything is clearly labeled. Pictured here are some spring rolls from the vegan store, Vegabond. This is some delicious, nutritious, beautiful vegan food.

After Firejuice, my friends, Kristina and Thomas, graciously hosted me in their apartment. They’re another sweet couple with a cat named Kelso.

That digital nomad life…

As was the case while seeing my friends in London and Nancy, work continued to keep me glued to my laptop in Amsterdam. Part of the reason why I’m doing this Eurotrip is seeing how I can handle being a digital nomad. Much of the anxiety comes from finding a reliable Wi-Fi connection. I mostly stayed home with Kelso and my laptop. But this kind of opportunity is one I’ve never had before. The whole world has become my office. It’s incredible.

And the best art galleries/museums

The last time I visited Amsterdam, the Rijksmuseum had reopened after undergoing renovations. I spent well over five hours marveling over art history lessons coming to life. There wasn’t enough time to do that again, so here are some places worth mentioning.

Amsterdam has a museum called Katten Kabinet, and it’s a cat art museum. Yes, you read that correctly: a cat art museum. I’ve seen it once before, and a second visit was clearly needed. It’s a collection of paintings, posters, and illustrations that feature cats, and going there is a must if you love feline friends.

I also went to the Moco Museum, a boutique museum displaying contemporary art. Currently they have exhibits featuring the work of Banksy and Icy & Sot. It was the first time standing in front of a Banksy original. Although I can’t say that Banksy was ever high on my radar, the political and humorous messages in his work are still something to be appreciated.

Amsterdam’s pop surrealism gallery is KochXBos. This piece is by Meryl Donoghue, an artist who works on the theme of painful narratives with a surreal twist. This piece here is called “Dreamland.” The owner of KochxBos said that it’s about the age of social media, how we share only the highlights of our lives on this digital medium. We hide behind those parts while masking the darker parts of ourselves. My parallel interpretation was along the same lines, but without the social media. To me, it seemed like a child seemed to have it all, but is hiding a very dark secret deeply beneath this faÃ§ade.

Turn on the bright lights

On the last night in Amsterdam, my friends and I walked under the twinkling Christmas lights. We went on a canal tour to see the Winter Light Festival, a collection of illuminated art installations throughout the city. The canal tour gives a different perspective, as the boat navigated under bridges and between streets.

Amsterdam is one of those cities I could live in. It’s progressive, bike-friendly, has a freakin’ cat art museum, loads of vegan food,Â andÂ being queer is widely accepted. This is a city I’m coming back to again and again, for sure.

Eurotrip 2018, Part 2: Paris & Nancy, France

A patch that the French Revolutionaries wore

Paris

Bonjour! I went through France in four days. It was a two-day whirlwind in Paris, exploring Montemarte (including the Dalí Museum), Musée d’Orsay, and the area around Gare du Nord. I tried taking this trip more slowly and ended up zipping through France like a spinning top!

I tried picking up the basics of the French language. In high school, I took three years of Spanish, which seemed to help a little, since there are many words that look similar. Spanish is a little more forgiving, whereas French demands a certain precision on how words flow when spoken. At least, that has been my experience. (That’s also true with many languages.) My French pronunciation needs work. Thankfully, I met up with another friend in Nancy who is fluent, so he took me under his wing and quizzed me on the basics.

I’ve been working a lot, which leaves little to time to see much. It’s quite alright, because the world has become my office. I was already expecting this to be the case and wanted to take advantage of doing that. What a wonderful opportunity this is, to work on my laptop and watch the world go by.

Paris is one of those cities that leaves you in awe. It’s the architecture, the extensive history coming to life. It’s the way strangers called me “madame.” Every city has a personality, and Paris exudes a venerable elegance that commands respect.

Nancy

I took the bullet train in the morning to go to Nancy. Sometimes, little things like watching the sunrise is all you need.

Nancy is further east. What I loved the most about it was the Art Nouveau architecture throughout the city. Some of the buildings have such intricate details, inspired by botanical forms. Art Nouveau is an art genre from the 19th century, characterized by stylized, graceful forms of nature, such as plants and flowers. I could spend all day just admiring the shapes of doorways and façades. Sometimes, I’ll do a double-take, noticing a detail that was missed before. It’s the little things like that.

My friend, Owen, took us to a beautiful Art Nouveau gallery called Musée de l’École de Nancy. It’s a collection of art and furniture in that genre. It features lush gardens, beautiful furniture, utensils, vessels, and paintings. It’s a certain kind of excitement and inspiration that makes the brain tingle.

France is a country I would like to explore more of, especially Paris. Next time, I’m definitely hitting up the Louvre, which is apparently an all-day affair. I’ll be back one of these days!

Eurotrip 2018, Part 1: London, U.K.

Last Tuesday, I embarked on a trip to the U.K., France, Netherlands, and Czech Republic.

Sometimes, self-care involves running a full marathon and then going on a three-and-a-half-week Eurotrip two days later. It’s something I’ve wanted to do while I can keep this freelance job. It does, after all, let me work anywhere in the world. Here, I will break this trip down by country in a four-part series.

Instead of planning every detail out like I did in my around-the-world tour last year, I am taking a different approach and being more flexible this time. Why not slow down and take everything in more fully?

Where I Stayed

I started in London and, after being awake for over 24 hours, crashed in the Dictionary Hostel in Shoreditch, a quirky part of the city. It’s a hip, friendly hostel, and it’s chill. I wouldn’t exactly say that it caters to the partying type. Unless you have a private room, you will meet others. As an introverted traveler, this was fine; I wanted to do just that. This hostel has free continental breakfast and Wi-Fi, plus an exchange library, which I always love browsing through. I spent much of my time in the courtyard, working.

London has a lot of beautiful street art. Sometimes it’s worth it to just wander around, because you never know what you might find.

Shoreditch also has a cat cafe, but it’s highly recommended that you make reservations. It’s usually full otherwise. That’s a mistake I learned, but I’ll make sure to visit these cats next time. They probably meow in British accents. (Kidding about the accents part…maybe.)

There’s Something for Everyone

London also has some of the most beautiful cafes, such as Élan Cafe. I have never seen one like it. Every goth girl has a soft side; we like simple comforts like tea and vegan cake…even pastel colors from time to time.

My favorite art genre is pop surrealism, so a visit to the Dorothy Circus Gallery was worth a visit. This space just opened a few weeks ago, and they’re just about done setting up. They’ve done an excellent job with the space!

The Sweetest Friends in the World

I also had the pleasure of seeing two friends of mine. My friend Sarah and I used to work together at my previous job. We met up for tea in a cafe and caught up. And then Einar and I met in Iceland a couple years back. In Reykjavik, we shared stories and drew in our sketchbooks. As someone with PTSD and social anxiety, it can be hard to make friends. There is this wall that serves as a defense mechanism that I’ve been slowly chipping away for the past four years. But when I travel, much of that melts away; it gets easier. Now I have some of the sweetest friends in the world.

We had planned to do more stuff in London, but unfortunately, I suddenly got so caught up in work despite requesting the week off. I felt bad, since it was his birthday week. But he was so patient and stayed with me while I worked.

When there was time, we wandered around Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park. Crowds can stress me out sometimes, but after working hard to meet my work goals for the week, a good break was in order. Winter Wonderland is like a German Christmas market mixed in with a carnival. It’s big, and full of flashing lights and laughter. While I usually shy away from crowds, the energy was invigorating.

I’ll Return One Day

London is one of those cities that has something for everyone. It’s so big, that even a month isn’t enough to do everything. With being swamped with work, this is a city that definitely calls for a revisit. This is a city where I fit right in. I cannot wait to go back.

Coming Full Spiral ‘Round the World

I have returned from my worldwide trip three days ago. I visited a total of seven countries: South Africa, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, and New Zealand. My two layovers were in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and Brisbane, Australia. I’m still processing what has happened over the last three months.

First, let’s talk about coming back to the U.S.

It was a doozy being admitted into my own country where I’m a citizen. Going through the security clearance was practically one step below being taken to an interrogation room. It was that kind of clearance. Usually I can walk on through without an issue. The TSA personnel scrutinized every minor detail. Every answer I gave was challenged. They took every little thing out and went through all of my receipts, clothes, and personal belongings. Even the coffee beans I brought back were opened and sniffed. (They smell good, don’t they?) My payment cards were taken out of my wallet to see if anything was hiding in the slots. They even went so far as to skim my sketchbook, calendar, and journal. They looked up all of my medications, both over the counter and prescriptions. I actually thought they would confiscate something, but that didn’t happen. It was nerve wracking to say the least. About half an hour later, they let me go.

I collect currencies and this is what’s left over from my travels: money from nine different countries. The TSA apparently frowns upon having a big wad of cash, as I learned from the rigorous screening. They asked what do I need all of that cash for, implying that it must be used for something illicit. When really, it was about $10-$15 worth of currency from each country. But it wasn’t worth converting back to US Dollars, because a percentage gets taken with the conversion. For starters, it should only be of concern if it’s $10,000 cash or more. I think they just wanted to give grief because they were bored. At least I have cash for next time!

Now I’m back in Seattle and wondering, “what the hell just happened?”

It is like waking up from a three-month dream. Practically nothing has changed here. But I know that I’m not exactly the same.

I went on this worldwide trip because a change was badly needed in my life. Every aspect of my life had stagnated, and travel was the only the only option left to give a jump start. My own world needed to be shaken up in order to move forward, so I made the decision to explore the one outside my own environment. Time to tear out old roots and plant new seeds, as the saying goes.

The extent of the changes will take months, perhaps even years, to sink in. What I can say for certain is that this journey took me out of my comfort zone in ways I’ve never experienced before.

I started off in South Africa to attend AfrikaBurn, where my social anxiety was swiftly confronted, and I found myself in a brand new community of friends who embraced emotional vulnerability. I then landed in Vietnam and got horribly lost while navigating among a language I did not understand. For the next seven weeks, I was immersed in the chaos and beauty of tropical Southeast Asia, perpetually in motion like a spinning top. I learned to negotiate prices as a confidence-building exercise and to not be sorry for what I want. I took a vegan cooking course in Vietnam. I ate the most delicious vegan food, petted the friendliest cats, and went on a meditation retreat in Thailand. I hiked up a volcano at 4 AM to watch the most breathtaking sunrise in Bali. I learned to ride a motorbike in Cambodia and was awestruck by the Temples of Angkor. I went scuba diving for the first time in Indonesia. I planted trees, weeded gardens, and volunteered my time at an urban farm in New Zealand.

But it wasn’t all sunshine, roses, and “a-ha” moments. The week after AfrikaBurn was spent fighting the debilitating norovirus. I got into more accidents in Southeast Asia than I could keep track of–which included sideswiping a motorcyclist on my bicycle in Vietnam. I fell on slippery rocks and broke my ribs in Laos. I literally ran into a car which put a dent in it, so I had to pay for damages in Indonesia. As if physical pain weren’t enough, halfway in my trip I had reached a turning point: My heart was shattered by a romantic interest back home at the same time one of my best friends shared that she has breast cancer. My weight dropped to nearly 120 pounds at my 5’9″ frame, and there were more 24+ hour benders than I could possibly count. There were nights where I truly felt like I was going crazy, especially in Southeast Asia, where I was all alone. It felt like nothing in the world could silence the fire raging through. The only option left was riding it out.

The more challenging parts also provided opportunities for growing emotional aptitude. It can be so easy to be swept away in a raging storm, and for me, the best I could do was take things one moment at a time. I may have been in hell some days, but it was the cleansing fire that burned out the old cobwebs of my psyche for new growth. A friend of mine had said, “don’t worry. Whatever happens, it always works out in the end.” I am grateful for the good parts of my trip and the bad.

This trip, with its good and bad parts, was a net positive to say the least. I’ve had to tackle my social anxiety by actually immersing myself in unfamiliar environments where I had no choice but to put faith in others. For most of my life, I was instilled with the belief that the world is a dangerous, scary place. In reality, most people around the world that I’ve met showed kindness and compassion. I was also led to believe that I was incompetent and not smart enough, and this trip has shown that maybe I’m actually more capable of things than I realize. It has built more solid confidence in me and others by really forcing myself to live in the outside world instead being so wrapped up inside my own head.

It had been a while since I felt that viscerally, thrillingly, brilliantly alive.

In New Zealand, the koru is a ubiquitous spiral symbol in Maori art for growth, change, new life, strength, and peace. It is based on the shape of a new unfurling silver fern frond. The outer shape of the spiral suggests perpetual movement while the inner coils show the return to the point of origin. It’s congruent with the belief that life is more of a spiral than a linear form. At the core is where the soul originates. As we grow, we sometimes return to the same point on whole new levels. We are in perpetual change, as nothing is permanent or pure.

“I’ve met travelers like you come and go. A lot of them are trying to find themselves or whatever light they are seeking. It could be the man who went though a divorce or the woman who is running from a traumatic past. Everyone has a story and happiness to find. But you know what, you don’t need to look so hard. You don’t have to go to the ends of the earth to find it. The light is already within you; it’s already there! You’re just still opening your eyes to fully see it.”

I shared that quote before in a previous entry. It’s from a conversation I had with the owner of a hotel I stayed at in Bali. It really struck a chord in me, as it was an encouraging reminder that every single person has inherent self-worth to begin with.

It’s what I’m actually beginning to see now.

I wish there was more to write about. I wish this blog entry was more detailed. But things are still sinking in, and as I said before, it will take a while before the entire experience is fully comprehended. It’s like a year of my life has been compressed to a period of three months. Now I’m back to where I started on a brand new level. Traveling the world solo has changed me in more ways than I can count.

Now that I’m back in Seattle, it’s time to decide where to go from here. Already I’m feeling restless from not having a next destination to go to, so…I’m planning an impromptu day trip to Portland tomorrow with my best friend, Brad. It’s a way to decompress after being set in constant motion.

Time to tie those boots on again.