Viña Del Mar is a city just north of Valparaíso that’s known for its beaches and gardens. Although it’s much smaller, there’s still a lot to do in this little beach city–even for a day trip.

From Valparaíso, you can take the bus, subway or taxi to get to its neighboring city. I went down to the Puerto station and bought a round-trip pass to the Viña Del Mar station. The 20-minute trip meanders along the coastline, so try to snag a window seat to take it all in.

Museums I Loved in Viña Del Mar

The subway stops conveniently a block away from Quinta Vergara park, which features lush tropical gardens, a children’s art museum, and the Museo Palacio Vergara art museum.

Museo Palacio Vergara art museum

Inside a Venetian neo-Gothic palace, the Museo Palacio Vergara houses paintings and sculptures from renowned Chilean artists. The art museum is free to enter, although you need to register as a visitor.

There were many notable artworks in this museum, and the ones that caught my attention the most were Mario Carreño’s cubic figures with smooth gradients. Pictured here is a large painting called “Las cuatro estaciones,” which means “the four seasons.” According to the artist, it’s about exploring the unknown with the freedom to exist, when life’s conventions may impose limiting beliefs on the spirit. In the future of uncertainty, we’ll have our inner strength to guide us forward.

Within the same park, a rainbow walkway leads you to a children’s art museum called Museo Artequin. This museum only shows copies of notable artworks instead of the originals. I went in, just to see what’s there. There are some audio explanations on some of the artwork, which helped me practice Spanish listening skills. I didn’t stay for very long, though.

After visiting the park and the museum, I explored more of Viña Del Mar on foot. This city isn’t very big, so it’s easy to get around.

Museo de Artes Decorativas Palacio Rioja

In an 18th-century French-inspired mansion, the Palacio Rioja museum offers a glimpse of Chilean aristrocracy. It was the home of the Spanish businessman, Fernando Rioja, and his family. Inside, the ornate rooms include a grand hall, vaulted ceilings with elegant trims and filigree, multiple lounges, a library, a fancy dining room for special occasions, and so much more. Many decorative arts were showcased, such as imperial Chinese vases and bronze sculptures. A manicured garden has exotic plants from Africa, China, and Brazil. Can you imagine living in a home like this?

Vegan in Viña Del Mar

I was pleasantly surprised to find vegan options in Viña Del Mar. Vegan Place is a restaurant that serves burgers, completos (a loaded hot dog), and empanadas, plus desserts. I had a “green bowl”: a salad topped with tofu, quinoa, and all the veggies. An empanada stuffed with mushrooms and dairy-free cheese made a great side dish, or something to take for later. The food was filling with clean ingredients, without the food coma.

Since Christmas was coming up, it was a good idea to bring some gifts home. Pulpería Orgánica Namaste is a vegan health food store that offers supplements, protein powders, and bulk goods such as nuts, dried fruits, and seeds. To bring a taste of Chile back to my friends, I bought a bottle of olive oil harvested locally and a small jar of merquén: a spice blend of smoked ground chiles, cumin, and salt invented by the indigenous Mapuche people.

I was concerned if the olive oil would explode in my checked luggage on the plane. That has happened before with a jar of peanut butter on another trip. The shop owner was so sweet and helpful. She looked up online if a bottle of olive oil would indeed explode. While the results seemed to suggest it, I can happily report that it did not happen. Pro tip: just wrap it well in plastic.

Some chocolate-y snacks also looked good, including a vegansito. I believe they’re a vegan version of the snack cake, Gansitos, which is a cake filled with creme and fruit jelly, and enrobed in dark chocolate.

Beaches

While I’m not always a beach person, it’s where I stopped to take a little break before going back to Valparaíso. Long stretches of beach seemed to go on as far as the eye can see. There are lots of beaches to choose from; I stopped at Playa El Sol. Right beside it is an artisanal street fair offering souvenirs and handicrafts, if you fancy bringing a memento home. Even though it’s summer, the water is still cold. It was a little crowded during the afternoon, since school is out. Lots of kids played in the water and the sand.

Onward to Valpo and Beyond

In the evening, I took the subway train back to Valparaíso and spent one more night there. It was time to move onward to Montevideo, Uruguay. The next morning, I took the bus back to the Pajaritos bus station in Santiago. I thought I could take another bus back to the airport, but couldn’t find the right one. My Spanish skills were put to good use by asking people for tips on how to get there. For $14, a taxi took me instead.

From there, I waited until my flight to Montevideo.

• Museums
• travel
• vegan food
• Viña Del Mar