Road Trip down the Oregon Coast, Part 1: Astoria

Houses in the foreground with boats at sea in the background under a multi-colored sunrise
Sunrise in Astoria
Being by the water is lovely.

Sometimes self-care means going on a week-long road trip, where you answer the call of the sea and the forests. I’ve heard so many wonderful about the Oregon Coast. After feeling antsy and stagnant from staying in Seattle all year, it was time to mosey on down to Astoria, before making it to the Redwood National and State Parks.

But first… vegan treats in PDX!

The All-Or-Nothing seasonal donut from Doe Donuts is filled with cookie butter, and topped with chocolate glaze and raw cookie dough.

I had to dip into Portland first and get some treats on my way to Astoria. I was going to meet a friend and would hate to have come empty-handed. Of course, I had to try Doe Donut’s new seasonal flavors, including their ultra-decadent All-Or-Nothing donut.

Gluten-free and vegan cookie from Harlow.

Astoria: a hidden gem along Oregon’s coast

I should move into this house in particular. 😉

Astoria is a quaint seaside town in Oregon. I’m the kind of traveler who tends to cram everything in one visit, but the calm energy of this sleepy town offers a leisurely change of pace. Many places had limited hours due to Covid, and some have closed for the season. I only had a day and a half to spend here. My friends, Lesli and Larry, graciously let me stay in their gorgeous home here. It was in a great hillside location within walking distance of everything.

Old friends

Check out Dianne’s artwork by Kit’s Apothecary for this month!

My friend, Dianne, was my sister’s old friend back in the day. Dianne and I still kept in touch. We’re both artists and have always supported each other’s work. She was hanging up her stuff at Kit’s Apothecary, and that’s where we met up. I gave her the donuts and cookies, and we walked around, catching up for a little bit. She gave some pointers on what’s good around town, I’m so happy to have tried so many of them!

Serendipity when you’re not even looking

I didn’t have many set plans in Astoria. It seemed more appropriate to wander around the charming down and encounter pleasant surprises along the way. A thick fog blanketed the whole town, casting a spooky aura, just perfect for Halloween.

In the morning, I climbed up the steep hill all the way to the Astoria Column. There’s supposedly a view overlooking the entire town and the sea on clear days. After I had reached the landmark, I found a 1.5-mile hiking trail and made my way back down.

For lunch, a yam and black bean burrito from Blue Scorcher hit the spot. That gave plenty of energy to wander around. While there weren’t any strictly vegan restaurants in town, many places did have at least one vegan option.

A goth traveler’s delight

The whimsical, colorful shops around town offered travel keepsakes, beautiful fancy papers, and handcrafted memorabilia that would make any goth traveler light up. My favorite shops in town are Cargo (imported treasures from around the world), Luminari Arts (unique, quirky local art and jewelry), and Godfather’s Books.

The interior of the Underground.
Kit’s Apothecary isn’t your grandma’s apothecary.

Then there are hidden shops in Astoria’s Underground building, such as Kit’s Apothecary (an apothecary selling CBD hemp products and goods with ubiquitous swear words), Weird Sisters Freak Boutique (offering creative and kooky clothes), and The Secret Gallery.

Mary Alayne Thomas • “The Secret Lives of Foxes” • Watercolor and encaustic

There’s also a growing art scene in Astoria. Brumfield Gallery, showing dark, floral, and surreal artwork, was my favorite.

Get to know the town’s history

The Flavel House Museum

A visit to Astoria isn’t complete without visiting the museums. The Flavel House Museum is a grand late-Victorian home of Captain George Flavel, a prominent bar pilot and businessman, and his family. The Heritage Museum, set in the early 1900s City Hall building, features local history exhibits. Housed in the former county jail, the Oregon Film Museum displays exhibits of films made in the area, notably The Goonies. If you choose to purchase tickets to all three, there’s a discount pass available.

Be sure to check the opening hours, because some have limited seasonal hours. For instance, the Museum of Whimsy closed its doors for the season.

Beautiful architecture throughout the town

‘Til next time, Astoria!

I really enjoyed my time here. It’s a great town to slow down in, so that you can appreciate what’s around you. I only had a day and a half here, and sometimes I wish there was more time. Astoria is only a few hours’ drive from Seattle, so another trip in the future will hopefully happen.

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