Cusco, Peru
Cusco, Peru was the historic capital of the great Inca Empire 600 years ago. Known as “Ombligo del Mundo” (navel of the world), it’s the gateway to the iconic Machu Picchu archeological site and the Sacred Valley. It rests at over a 11,000-foot (3,339 meter) elevation in the Andes Mountains. It was even higher than Quito!
Years ago, I was working as a content writer for Google Maps. More specifically, I wrote hotel descriptions for lodging all over the world, even in faraway places like Cusco. I longingly pored over the maps, reading about the sacred Incan sites throughout Cusco and beyond. I studied the layout of the tourist town, Aguas Calientes, the last stop before ascending to Machu Picchu. Finally, I was exactly where I wanted to be.
A little bit on Inca cosmology
Cusco, Peru was the most spiritual place I’ve been to in a long time. Everywhere I went, Incan references to Inti, Pachamama, and the underworld were woven in plain sight, or hidden throughout the city like Easter eggs. For the Incas, the universe was divided in three worlds:
- Hanan Pacha (Upper World): The upper world contains the celestial and spiritual realm. It’s represented by the condor.
- Kay Pacha (Middle World): The terminal world is filled with living humans, animals, plants, and physical nature. It’s the earthly realm, represented by the puma.
- Uku Pacha (Underworld): The underworld symbolizes transformation and hidden life. It’s represented by the serpent.
There isn’t a hierarchy between these three worlds. Rather, they work together in equilibrium, transferring creation and energy in cycles.
In Cusco, Pachamama is known as Mother Earth from the terminal world, offering the sustaining force of life and fertility. As the physical presence, she embodies the mountains, oceans, and land. She generates life to sustain all of us, while working closely with Inti (the sun god in the Upper World) and the underworld. While she gives life and resources, it doesn’t mean we can keep taking from her. Humans also have a reciprocal responsibility of taking care of her and giving back as well. Some Andeans claim that climate change is affecting us all, because we’re disrespecting Pachamama and taking too much from her. Now she’s angry and is punishing the world. They’re not wrong.
¡Rezamos a la Pachamama! (We pray to Pachamama!)
Sacsayhuamán
It is said that Cuzco has the shape of a puma when viewed from above. As I mentioned above, the puma represents the earthly realm of people, life, and everyday action.
The Inca citadel, Sacsayhuamán, forms the head of the puma-shaped city. This defensive stone fortress overlooks the city and provided protection, as well as serving as a religious center for Inca ceremonies. The stone work is a mastery of engineering: the stones were cut and placed so precisely, that not even a blade can pass between them.
For folks who opt out of seeing Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán still shows the incredible stonework of the Incan empire. If you’re visiting Cuzco, definitely visit this important part of the city!
Qorikancha, the sun temple
If Sacsayhuáman is the head of the puma-shaped city, then Qorikancha (Kor-i-can-cha) would be the heart. Once covered in gold, this prominent 15th-century Inca temple was dedicated to the sun god, Inti, in the upper world. It served as a spiritual, astronomical, and political center in Cusco, Peru. There were six temples inside to worship the deities of the celestial bodies, which would provide guidance for agriculture:
- Sun: Inti, the central diety, symbolized the divine power of the sun.
- Moon: Represents femininity and controls the lunar cycles in agriculture.
- Stars: Represents the connection to the cosmos. This temple measured the Summer and Winter solstices as a calendar to plant crops.
- Rainbow: Represents the bridge to Pachamama, or earth and agricultural fertility.
- Lightning: Offered power and protection, as well as rain and storm cycles. Water is sacred, and without it, there’s no life.
- Thunder: Symbolized weather patterns, which are important for crop growth.
When the Spaniard settlers came in the 16th century, they forcibly stripped all of the gold from the temple and destroyed everything except for the original stone foundation. In its place, they built the Santo Domingo covenant, a Catholic place of worship. While they tried to erase the Inca religion, the covenant has suffered earthquakes—revealing the long-standing Incan architecture as its original purpose.
Underground tunnels in Cusco
There’s a web of underground tunnels in Cusco, which used to serve as communication pathways throughout the city. For instance, there’s a main tunnel between Qorikancha and Sacsayhuáman. The tunnels could also have been used to transport sacred objects and resources. If Sacsayhuáman is the head of the puma, and Qorikancha is the heart, then maybe the tunnels could be considered the underbelly. Either way, the underworld symbolism is quite clear.
Rainbows galore
The rainbow flag is the official city flag for Cusco, symbolizing the rich cultural diversity of the region. Incas worship rainbows, the bridge between the earth and the sky. The seven colors in the rainbow flag also symbolize the seven chakras of the body. The Inca also believed that the rainbow impregnated Pachamama. Cusco’s flag can be confused with the Pride flag, although the difference is that the Pride flag has six colors.
The coca leaf
Since Cusco sits at over 11,000 feet, coca leaves were readily available to chew on to relieve altitude sickness. As I mentioned in my Quito blog post, this important plant is considered a sacred medicine, not a drug. It’s similar to caffeine. Coca leaves have 14 alkaloids, some minerals, and antioxidants. They taste similar to yerba mate tea and can be bitter. Some folks chew it with a black substance called llipta, which is made with cacao or ashes with quinoa and mint flavor. The combo creates a chemical effect to get the full effects of the coca leaf. It tastes pretty good!
Coca leaves are also an important part of ceremonies and rituals. When making offerings to the deities, especially to Pachamama, three of the best coca leaves are presented at the alter to pay respects.
Machu Picchu
To get to Machu Picchu, I bought a train ticket in the Inca Rail office. I paid about $160 for a round trip ticket to Aguas Calientes. It was a very last-minute decision, so I had to hurry. First, I had to take a shuttle from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, which cost 10 soles. From there, I got off and ran as fast as I could to the train station. I arrived a few minutes late from the departure time, and fortunately, the train was still there!
Aguas Calientes is a compact tourist town in the Andes, a place to stay for the night before going to Machu Picchu. The Peruvian government doesn’t sell all of their tickets online; they often reserve some tickets at their Ministerio de Cultura office. Since it was the off season, there were more available. I walked over in person and paid $152 for the Route 2 ticket, which is the most popular.
Peru has two seasons: wet and dry. When I went, it was rainier this time of year. Usually the best time to go is April through October.
After spending the night in Aguas Calientes, I hiked up the trail up to Machu Picchu. It took about an hour and a half. Most people took the bus, because it can be a strenuous hike.
The Inca empire built this iconic terraced stone compound 600 years ago. They worshipped Inti (the sun god from the Upper World), the sacred mountains, and other elements woven into Incan cosmology. They did solstice rituals to pay homage to their deities, which in turn served as an agricultural calendar. The stone structures were also set so precisely, as the terraces allowed crops to grow at different elevations. They also tested drainage and soil fertility while protecting the mountain from erosion. It really was a feat of engineering.
Hiking up the mountain among the clouds and then seeing this incredible Incan city below struck me deeply. Whatever issues that I carried before felt insignificant, now that I was standing before this magnificent structure.
I stood at the top, noticing the white fluffy clouds gracing the space between the mountains. It was partly sunny, which I was grateful for, because December is the wet season. Inti graced us with his heavenly presence after all.
Vegan Food in Cusco
My trip in South America was probably the cleanest I’ve eaten in a while. The vegan food in Cusco was my favorite. It turns out that I love Andean food!
It’s super easy to be vegan in Cusco, as quinoa, potatoes, corn, beans, and fresh fruit are ubiquitous. I’ve always loved quinoa, and having this wholesome grain straight from the source just hits different. Somehow, the food tastes better there. It has a fuller body, the flavors have more depth, and it makes me feel better.
Mercado Central de San Pedro is where I frequented almost every day for snacks and food. You’ll find chocolate, coffee, corn, grains, fruit smoothies, restaurants, and gift shops selling artisan-made souvenirs. Some vendors sell chocolate in local flavors, such as the earthy and sweet chicha morada. My favorite place to eat there was Vegan Point, which serves wholesome Peruvian food, such as a brightly flavored salad with fried quinoa balls.
Speaking of which, chicha morada just might be my new favorite drink! It’s is a purple corn drink that’s sweetened with pineapple, and spiced with a pinch of cinnamon and cloves. It can have more or less sugar, depending on preference. The kind I had at a cafe was sweeter than the one from a street vendor selling it in a plastic bag. When I sipped the chicha morada from the plastic bag, it wasn’t sweetened with sugar at all. At least I could know what it actually tastes like.
I mentioned earlier that coca leaves are an integral part of Andean culture, both in rituals and everyday life. Because of this, there are coca leaf-flavored sweets in Cusco. I tried coca leaf candies and a coconut-based ice cream. It blew my mind—I’ve never had a flavor like it! It tastes like a smooth tea-flavored treat, like green matcha or a touch of earl grey. The vegan ice cream was so delicious, I almost wanted another one.
Connecting with the people of Cusco
Another favorite part of visiting Cusco was connecting with the people of Cusco. In my Colombia blog post, I mentioned the Colombians love using their colorful slang. They also speak rather quickly. In Cusco, the people speak Spanish slower and more clearly, which makes it much easier to understand for me. Many also speak Quechua.
When I was eating lunch at Vegan Point, I noticed a white kitten in a makeshift blue shirt. Since I can’t resist a cute kitten, I asked the little girl and her mother if it’s okay to take pics. They said yes, and then it unfolded into a beautiful conversation about why we’re vegan. We agreed that we couldn’t in good conscience eat an animal that doesn’t want to die, and that it one of the worst things for the environment. The little girl saved the kitten from getting swept from the heavy rains a couple months ago. She seemed to be about 5 years old, and already she expressed compassion and curiosity. This kid is going places when she’s older. We took selfies together, a wholesome moment between us.
Final thoughts about Cusco
Cusco was one of my favorite places that I’ve ever visited in the world. What I’ve seen of Peru has been delightful, spiritual, and deep. The concept of Pachamama piqued my interest the most. The reciprocal relationship that we tend to with her especially translates into our existential realm on this earth.
This part of the world is colorful, friendly, and genuine. Many places have been great experiences, but this one was quite special. While there’s more to Peru, I felt right at home in Cusco. I hope that one day I can return to explore more.
