Portland is a city where it’s good to be goth. From macabre cafes to heavy metal bars offering vegan junk food, this weird and wonderful city offers something for everyone—including goths and their people.
Fall may be the best time to visit Portland. The air cools down just enough to cozy up in your favorite sweater, as the leaves change to various shades of yellow, orange, and crimson. While Halloween may be over, here are five goth places to enjoy in this city.
Momento Mori Cafe
Embrace your inner darkness at this death-themed coffee shop, Momento Mori Cafe. Named as a reminder of the inevitability of death, this macabre cafe serves delectable vegan skull-shaped treats and ethereal caffeinated elixirs—so you can pick your poison while exploring the depths of these flavors and your existence. Relax while goth tunes croon from the speakers. These tastefully morbid themes are a sharp juxtaposition to its ethos of saving animal’s lives by being a 100% vegan cafe.
A Vampira latte and a pumpkin skull cake.
Normally, I drink black coffee. This time, I tried the Vampira, which is a red velvet latte artfully swirling with creamy oat milk. It paired nicely with this skull-shaped pumpkin cake.
Sometimes there are pop-ups, such as vendors selling vegan bat-shaped cookies, tarot card readings, or tattoos. Events such as paint-and-sips let you stretch those creative muscles and work your magic on a canvas painting.
Black Cat Frozen Custard
Black Cat Frozen Custard is a delightful coven-like parlor that serves frozen custard, which is a fancy ice cream mixed with egg yolks. Have no fear, because a vegan version is here! Topped with swirled whipped cream, rainbow sprinkles, and a bright red cherry on top, the vegan vanilla custard is served in a magical ambience. You’ll find rows of mysterious potions sitting next to skulls, dead flowers, and spell books—all of the arcane goods for a witch’s lair.
A wardrobe offers a portal to a secret speakeasy coffee shop, which requires a password to access it. If you do have it, the person behind the counter will give you a dagger, which serves as a key to the portal. According to visitors, it’s apparently rather cozy inside, so I’ll have to find the password somehow and visit!
To get your goth on for the night, look no further than the Coffin Club. This queer-positive space welcomes goths of all walks of life in an inclusive environment. The creatures of the night dress up in shiny, skin-tight black PVC pants and corsets, or black lace and torn fishnets for a more trad Goth look. Skulls glow under red, green, and purple lights as DJs spin favorite goth tunes, both old and new: The Sisters of Mercy, Vision Video, 3Teeth, Nine Inch Nails, and more. Dance on top of the Ouija board dance floor, possibly summoning a spirit or two, or rest (temporarily) in peace for a photo op in an actual coffin.
The bar offers handcrafted mocktails (and cocktails). The Coffin Club even offers a vegan food cart to refuel as you dance the night away.
When I went a couple weeks ago, there was a drag show on the stage. For those events, definitely bring small bills to tip the performers. They work hard, and they’ll appreciate you for it!
Black Water
These chili cheese fries are to die for.
For vegan junk food, the heavy metal bar Black Water might satiate your cravings. The menu offers classic American food such as burgers, fries, and decadent sandwiches stuffed with house-made seitan or fried seasoned tofu. I had the chili cheese fries, which were smothered in vegan chili and cashew cheeze. Since the portions are huge, it’s good to share with a friend!
You’ll find rows of pinball machines to help pass the time while you wait for your food. Live heavy metal bands play frequently through the week at night.
Before anyone says that this kind of vegan food is unhealthy, well, that’s how you know that being vegan really is for the animals here. You can enjoy all of your classic favorite dishes without taking a single life on your plate. As long as less animals are killed for food, then that’s a win!
Lone Fir Cemetery
For a spooky picnic or to enjoy the autumn foliage, Lone Fir Cemetery offers expansive grounds for you to choose from. Since the first burial in 1846, this cemetery has grown to become one of Portland’s oldest cemeteries with 25,000 people buried here.
It also started off with a solitary douglas fir tree (hence the name), which is still standing to this day. Since then, more trees have been introduced, and today there are over 700 trees representing 63 species.
When the weather is nice, you can dress up in your finest goth splendor, set up a picnic, and enjoy lunch among the 25,000 souls floating around here. Nobody will ever question it. And remember, momento mori. 😉
My visit to Korea isn’t complete without talking about the vegan food. In Korean families, instead of hearing, “How are you?”, you may hear, “Have you eaten yet?” That’s because food is considered a love language in Korean families. It brings people together, and eating is considered a social activity. It might be a challenge to find a restaurant that serves meals for one person, because many places serve at least two at a table. However, you can still dine by yourself if you please.
Food for survival and rebuilding
There’s a reason why food is a love language here.
My mother was born right before the Korean War. She spent her earliest years during the war and the rest of her childhood in meager conditions, when Korea was left a divided country in shambles. The Koreans had to rebuild their communities piece by piece. At the time, they scrounged whatever food was available. Meat was scarce and considered a luxury; they would have it during special occasions, such as birthdays. Omma and her family mostly subsisted on rice, vegetables, tofu, and some seafood. They cooked and ate together, because their survival depended on it.
As she raised me and my sister, our mother fed us comforting Korean dishes, such as kimbap, japchae, rice, kimchi, and fried tofu. While meat was a part of our diets, it didn’t feel like a big part of our lives (at least, not for me). Perhaps this is why I became vegetarian so easily as a kid: it was already written in our ancestral diets.
But taking Korean lunch to school was a different story. Growing up in the rural suburbs of Northern Virginia, the fear of immigrants was prevalent. As I mentioned in my previous entry, anything that wasn’t considered American was unfamiliar, gross, stinky, or even downright repugnant. Once, I brought Omma’s delicious kimbap and kimchi to school, where the smell of spicy fermented cabbage permeated my vicinity. And because kids were being kids, they never let me hear the end of it. For a while, my nickname was “garlic breath.” That was the last time I brought Korean food to school.
That never stopped me from enjoying it though. They can take away Korean food from my cold, dead hands.
Finding vegan food in South Korea
I’ll be honest: it was actually hard to find vegan food in South Korea, especially in Incheon. The country is surrounded by water, so seafood is abundant. Most restaurants have dishes with seafood or meat; there would be no vegan options on the menu. If I had to rate how easy it was to find vegan food, it’s a 4 out of 10. I definitely need more than a week to find more places!
Like all other trips, the Happy Cow app is a lifesaver to find vegan food. It costs $5 from the iPhone app store, but it’s worth it. I use it all the time, whether abroad or back home.
Since I was staying in Incheon, there weren’t a lot of vegan options around my hotel. Thankfully, I came prepared with enough energy bars to have breakfast for the week. Trader Joe’s has their name-brand energy bars for a little over a dollar, which saves time and money when starting the day.
Banchan dishes with soon tofu
After seeing our Imo in Incheon, I took Jess out to a vegan lunch at Gapyeong Suntofu Barley House. Run by an elderly couple, the restaurant specializes in barley rice and soft tofu that you mix with soy sauce. Although they do serve meat, most of the dishes are vegan by default. It’s served with doenjang (fermented soybean paste), gochujang (spicy sauce), and banchan (small plates of vegetables and kimchi for sharing). We ate, slurping our tofu with soysauce and topping spoonfuls of rice with pickled sides.
Tteok comes in many sizes, shapes, and colors.
One day, I wandered around the enormous Lotte department store in Incheon. At the bottom floor, there are many restaurants and cafes. I found a vendor that makes tteok, which are sticky rice cakes that often have beans folded into the mix. Usually tteok is cheap, but these were kind of pricey, since they were in a department store. But the soft, comforting treat was what I had been looking for. It was legit.
Vegan Street food in Seoul
Fresh japchae and kimbap
For lunch and dinner, I often went to Seoul, where vegan street food is more common. In the popular markets such as Myeongdong, Namdaemun, and Gwangjang, some street vendors offer classic Korean dishes:
Kimbap: Savory veggies rolled up in rice and seaweed, kind of like sushi. But it’s not sushi.
Japchae: Sweet potato-based glass noodles with spinach, carrots, and bean sprouts, and seasoned with black pepper, soy sauce, and sesame oil. It’s a childhood favorite of mine.
Tteok: Sweet, sticky rice cakes. They come in different colors and may have a sweet red bean filling or even ground sesame. Others may have sweet peas or beans folded between layers. You have to chew the sticky morsels thoroughly to avoid choking. Another favorite growing up!
Bindaetteok: Deep-fried mungbean pancakes. Many of them have bean sprouts and onions mixed in; others have meat. The vegan bindaetteok has lots of protein and fat to help keep me full and energized. In Gwangjang Market, there were plenty of bindaetteok vendors that had vegan options!
Just can’t get enough tteok. These were divine.
I would say that the expansive Gwangjang Market has the most variety of vegan options for cheap. Apparently, there’s even a vegan food tour, but they were unfortunately full. (There’s always next time!) You do need to bring cash, since most places don’t take credit cards. Many vendors speak minimal English, so having some Korean basics can go a long way when ordering.
Vegan Restaurants in Seoul
You’ll have a much easier time finding a vegan restaurant in Seoul than in Incheon. As I mentioned, while vegan options are expanding, sometimes it can still be hard to find food. For instance, I really wanted to find a tofu wrap by ByTofu, and it was across town. From Incheon, it took nearly a couple hours to get there. By the time I arrived, the cafe had closed to prepare for its dinner menu. I was so bummed, because the food looked absolutely scrumptious in the photos. It’s like that sometimes, though.
Plantude
I pulled up the Happy Cow app to find the nearest vegan spot, which was Plantude on the seventh floor within I’Park Mall at Yongsan Station. It took an hour to get there. By the time I arrived, I hadn’t eaten for four hours!
“Soft Tofu from Hell” is a tofu jjigae in a piping-hot clay pot.
Plantude has Korean dishes with a Western twist. I had the “Soft Tofu in Hell” dish, which was like a spicy tofu jjigae (stew) with tomatoes. It’s served with rice and garlic bread. The dish comes piping-hot, so don’t touch the clay bowl like I did. I burned myself, so that dish really lives up to its name. Lol. In all seriousness, it really did hit the spot. It’s amazing how food can leave you feeling energized and happy.
Maji Temple Food
After having a photoshoot at Gyeongbokgung Palace, it was time for lunch. After turning in my rental hanbok, I walked over to the tranquil Maji restaurant, which serves traditional Korean temple food. Embodied by Buddhist spirituality, temple food is vegan and doesn’t use the five pungent vegetables—green onions, garlic, chives, wild chives, and Chinese squill—since they may disrupt the spiritual practice. It often uses fermented products, such as doenjang: a fermented soybean paste.
The main lunch item came as a variety of small banchan dishes with the sweet and sour shiitake mushrooms and japchae as the main dishes. The fragrant steamed rice came inside a wrapped lotus leaf, and the doenjang was aged for three years, which brings out a deeper flavor. Because I’m a japchae lover through and through, that was my favorite dish.
The desserts were mildly sweet.
For dessert, the yugwa (puffed rice cake that melts in your mouth) and the little moist yakgwa cookie were adorable and paired well with the tea. They finished the meal off nicely.
It was raining hard outside, and I had my rain jacket and wide-brimmed hat. In Seattle, I’ve grown used to not using an umbrella, as long as I was dressed appropriately. When the owner of the restaurant asked how I was going to stay dry, I said that my jacket would do. Then she graciously pulled out her own umbrella and insisted that I take it. I tried to decline, but she put it in my hand and told me that it’s a gift. I was floored by the kindness of this woman! The umbrella did turn out to be useful, and I spent the rest of the day staying dry. People should eat at Maji Temple food, because it really is made with love and kindness.
Vegan treats in Seoul
As the vegan lifestyle becomes more popular, so does the variety of vegan treats that you can find in Seoul. If you’re tired of chewing sticky tteok, then I have a couple of delicious suggestions.
Overte Donuts
O.verte Donuts is a snug café that serves vegan donuts with sophisticated flavors such as raspberry pistachio, matcha glaze and crumble, and tiramisu glaze. I had both the matcha and tiramisu flavors, and the soft texture was divine! I wasn’t even looking for donuts, but this was certainly calling my name. They also serve coffee, but I didn’t have that in the evening. I bought the donuts as takeaway, since the café was inundated with exuberant Korean business men who sat around the only table. It’s all good!
Ashville Bakery
Asheville Cafe is a warm vegan bakery set just around a corner in the Bukchon Hanok Village. After walking up and down those steep hills, some treats were in order! You have to walk down some stairs to get to the hidden bakery. I ordered a pastry stuffed with a sweet, airy cream that’s reminiscent of a fluffy cloud. I also had a decadent ppat (red bean) pastry, a rich bread stuffed with sweet red beans. Usually, they’re made with butter and eggs. I used to enjoy them when I was a vegetarian. This vegan version tasted just like it!
The past, present, and future of Korean food
Your non-Korean friends might love japchae noodles.
As I mentioned in my last post, Korean culture, products, and food are in vogue in the United States. I’m really glad that South Korea is finally getting recognition, since they’ve been fighting to get to where they are today. And the best thing is that Americans, particularly white people, are finally trying Korean food and actually enjoying it.
But something that tugs at me is, why did it also take white society’s stamp of approval to finally make this food popular in mainstream society? What was once considered stinky and gross—such as kimchi—is now touted as a health food by many white Instagram influencers and chefs while often ignoring the history behind it. (Though, the probiotics are actually good for you.) Sometimes, they’ll make their own “new and improved” kimchi at higher prices. What was wrong with it before? If you want kimchi, then try supporting a Korean-owned business who has the tried and true recipes.
Don’t get me wrong—I’m glad that more people of all walks of life are enjoying what Koreans have to offer. It really is good stuff! I truly hope that this is more than just a health fad, because Korean food has existed long before this current era, and it will exist long afterwards.
Years ago in my twenties, I had heard of a Burning Man 50k ultramarathon. I thought that whoever runs that distance in the desert has got to be insane, where the alkaline environment is so harsh that absolutely nothing grows. It’s where temperatures can exceed 100 degrees while dust storms obscure everything around you. It’s like running an ultra on another planet.
Pink Lightning is an action-packed camp that graciously hosted this beloved 50k. The camp also offered events such as a 5k race, yoga, an art safari night ride, and something called “The Odyssey”—a strange event on the playa where participants compete to finish 6, 12, 18, or 24 miles, beers, doughnuts, or orgasms in any combination within 24 hours. Things you need a lot of stamina for.
Earlier this year, I wasn’t sure if I could secure a ticket to Burning Man. It can be notoriously hard to get one because of how popular it is. Even though the odds looked a little slim—yet hopeful—I still trained for this race anyway. Can you imagine sacrificing your social life and other things you enjoy, just to train for an epic race that you don’t even know if you’ll get to be able to run in?
But still I dutifully finished most of the workouts, and always completed the Saturday long runs, the most important part. I trained among the lush forests in the mild climate in hilly, sea-level Seattle—a sharp contrast to the extremely dry, hot, and dusty alkaline lake bed at a nearly 4,000-foot elevation in Nevada.
As the event grew closer, so did my odds of getting a Burning Man ticket. Once my dear friend Shawn found one for me (thank you so much, Shawn!), I could now register for the race. It was official—I was going to run 50k in the desert! My training wasn’t going to waste after all.
Never had I ever imagined that I would toe the line with hundreds of other ultramarathoners in this very same race.
The Burning Man 50k Ultramarathon Course
The Burning Man 50K course map
Burning Man sits in an area of seven square miles. It’s so vast that an entire race course can be created. It is as follows:
Starting at Pink Lightning Camp at 7:35 & D, we would run until the 8:00 street and turn right.
We ran until reaching the Esplanade and turned left to run along that.
When we reached the 10:00 side of the city, we kept running until getting to the trash fence, the very edge of Burning Man.
We ran along the trash fence reaching each pink lightning bolt checkpoint.
We kept going until a third pink lightning bolt pointed us back to the 2:00 side.
We went along the 2:00 side, until hitting the esplanade once again.
We ran along the curve of the esplanade until the 7:30 street.
We turned left onto 7:30 until reaching D street, and kept running until the lap checkpoint at the 7:45 point, where Pink Lightning was.
That was one 7.5 mile lap. We would repeat the same route three more times.
The last part was an out-and-back at 9:10 & Esplanade to complete the 31 miles. That was about a mile or so.
The beginning of the long, epic ultramarathon
At the starting line of the Burning Man 50k ultramarathon
You have to be a little crazy to voluntarily wake up around 3:30 a.m. to run 31 miles in the desert just for fun.
Waking up, I couldn’t believe I was about to do the Burning Man 50k ultra. I ate a bowl of oatmeal with vegan protein powder. After filling up my hydration pack, I headed to Pink Lightning.
Cheers and excitement filled the air. Standing at the starting line, I was one of the 350 runners. I didn’t know this race was so popular. At least we could all revel in doing something amazing. We get to test our limits and be in this together.
The race started at 5:00 a.m., so that we could enjoy the darkness and cooler temperatures before the sun cooked us. We wore lights so that art cars and bicyclists could see us.
The starting signal went off. And like a stampede, hundreds of us were let out from the starting line, the first steps to this epic journey of the Burning Man 50k.
All fun and games during the first lap
So far, running on the flat desert lake bed felt much easier than the hills of Seattle. Even before the sun came up, many folks stopped to cheer us on along the trash fence in the deep playa. It was a good start.
The sunrise
As I reached the Esplanade, the sun broke the horizon in the East and slowly climbed higher into the sky. I remembered how running with the sunrise was once a favorite pastime, as the city woke up and early birds brewed their coffee. Here, the night owls who partied all night on the playa were now making their way back to their camps, confused as to why so many people were running this early.
A little after an hour, I hit the first lap checkpoint at the camp and loaded up on snacks, water, and electrolytes. It’s so important to replenish, especially on electrolytes, because water easily evaporates from your body in this extreme environment, even if you’re not running. The electrolytes help keep water in. The snacks obviously help fuel us, because we burn calories so fast out there.
It’s perfectly acceptable to take a piano break.
The Playa provides
Usually we Burners operate on the principle of Radical Self-Reliance. And most of us do take care of ourselves, bringing everything we need, plus more to share. That’s because another principle is Gifting.
Fresh fruit can go a long way
Throughout the race course, there was no shortage of “Playa Angels,” people who set up tables offering food, drinks, water, and plenty of cheers to go around. Some even ventured all the way out to the deep playa and made sure we were taken care of! I was blown away by their generosity. They gave me so much water during the race, that I didn’t even finish what was in my hydration pack. There were plenty of vegan snacks–energy gels, fresh fruit, granola bars galore–so I had enough calories to keep going.
Aside from the previous snacks, there were no shortage of cheers, creativity, and encouragement as we made our way along the journey.
I was just ending the second lap and crossed the timing mat into my third. Now I was halfway through the race at mile 15.
Navigating through white-out dust storms
For the second half of the race, the wind and dust picked up. A dust storm was incoming in the distance. This is why we wore scarves, so that we can mask up.
My scarf helped keep the dust out of my nose
Soon we were racing inside the dust storm, where the visibility reduced to 15 feet! I could still see my hand in front of me, but the dust obscured all of the signs. Many of us runners couldn’t see where to go. A storm like this can be quite disorienting. Some of us, myself included, got lost on the course.
“It’s this way!” someone shouted.
It cleared just enough for a minute. I had veered at least a couple hundred feet off the course. I was so glad that someone said something, because I would have kept going!
After struggling to find the path, I just followed another runner who seemed to know where he was going. But the dust storm was a white-out, even blocking the midday sun. We blindly followed what we hoped was the right direction.
I was relieved when I saw the pink lightning bolt at the trash fence.
Is there anybody out there…?
Aside from two other runners near me, the deep playa appeared desolate in the storm. There seemed to be no signs of life. My energy was waning. All I could do was keep going without thinking much, one foot in front of the other, as my sock slowly slid off in my right shoe.
Point 3 was the deepest part of the deep playa.
When the going gets tough, the playa angels get going
The buffer pit stop
In the emptiest part of the playa, a crew of what looked like roadside workers with fluorescent yellow vests appeared in the dust. They cheered and hollered, holding car buffers and massage guns. It was literally a pit stop to massage tired runners. They pulled me aside and asked what I would like.
“Legs and back, please!” I said.
This was top-notch service.
The crew went to work massaging my tired, stiff legs and my back, which has been supporting me this entire time. This was probably the best and most hilarious gift ever for a runner! I loved the idea and it was very useful to anyone who needs a pit stop like that.
After they sent me on my way, there was no choice but to power through the dust storms. The strong headwinds along the trash fence worked against me as I pushed through. The good thing was that it wasn’t blazing hot like I had expected. In fact, the temperatures were perfect: it didn’t go above 83 degrees, which is almost unheard of during the last week of August. At least the dust cools the air and offers some protection from the sun.
This playa angel offered coconut water, a desert treat.
Another group of wonderful playa angels had an endless amount of coconut water, a wonderful treat during the hardest parts of the race. They were so amazing; they kept handing me more and more of those sweet natural electrolytes. I had as much as I could before setting off again.
Pushing forward along the Esplanade, I remembered that there was one more lap after this one. I sighed and kept going, knowing that I would eventually be done.
I made it through the camp checkpoint, finishing the third lap. Some runners had already finished the race.
The descent into the darkness
The fourth and final lap felt like the loneliest part of the ultramarathon. Whatever energy I had left was draining fast.
My entire consciousness had down-shifted within the dark recesses of my being. This was the part where I questioned my life’s choices. Why did I choose to do an ultramarathon yet again? What for? Why did I invest so much time and energy into something like this, just to feel miserable at mile 22 in the desert?
Finding the “why” is the most important answer every marathoner must remind themselves with, because the desert gives plenty of reasons why not.
All I could do was take one step at a time. The dust storm still made it hard to see. Discomfort permeated my existence, and I could not focus on anything past my own body. But sometimes we have to sit with discomfort and see what is on the other side.
Someone handed me lemonade from his booth.
“You look tired. Would you like to take a seat?” he asked.
“I’m sorry,” I said. “I can’t.”
It was tempting. How badly I would have loved to stop and take a break. But if I had sat down during this part of the race, I would have never gotten back up.
I turned down food at this point. The cheers from the sidelines reduced to underwater-like muffles in my fractured consciousness, my focus channeling only to what’s in front of me.
Finding playa magic in the worst of times
During a race, I’ve heard of runners “syncing up,” or running together as a pack even if they’re strangers. I usually run in my own world, so staying closely with another participant hasn’t happened recently.
In the deep playa on the last lap, there was a woman nearby who I thought could be a good pacer for this last part of the race. My pace had slowed down since the start, and it helped to have a little more support.
Pickles and me
We ran along the trash fence. Sometimes I would pass her. Sometimes she passed me. Occasionally I would look for her in the corner of my eye, wondering if she was still close by. She was always a few feet away: either ahead, behind, or near my side.
We barely spoke to each other, but our little bond spoke louder than words. Both of us focused on the path ahead, desperately eager to finish the last part of the race.
We crossed under the pink lightning bolts in the lonely deep playa, one after another, and continued along the curving Esplanade. The camp checkpoint seemed so far away, despite how much closer we were getting.
The dust storm settled a little. With patience, we followed the path back to Pink Lightning, until finally, we finished the last lap. But it wasn’t over.
We stopped for a quick water break (we were dying!) and waited for each other. There was still one more mile to go.
“You ready?” she asked after her last sip.
“Yeah,” I said. “Let’s do this.”
Together, we took off for the very last part of the race: the mile-long out-and-back to a turnaround point on the Esplanade and 9:10.
When we reached the last pink lightning bolt, we touched it. This was it–this was the last checkpoint! We turned around to run back to the camp: the finish line.
Once we turned back on D street, we picked up the pace slightly, knowing we were so close to the finish. We ran faster and faster—we could see it in the distance!
The finish line
The cheers grew louder and clearer. Runners who had already finished screamed encouragement as we both ran between the twin pink lightning bolts at the finish line. I don’t remember who crossed it first.
Relief washed over me as a volunteer put a wooden finisher’s medal with a pink fluorescent ribbon around my neck. Endorphins flooded my brain, the polar opposite of the terrible feelings in the last lap.
I turned to my runner friend and hugged her tight.
“Thank you so much for staying with me!” I said. “That was a huge support.”
“Oh no, thank YOU!” she said. “I would’ve had a tougher time without you.”
“What’s your name?” I asked.
“Pickles.”
“Pickles! I’m Tokki. Great job on the race! We made it!”
We hugged again before setting off our separate ways.
This is “playa magic.” Sometimes little glimmers or miracles happen when you least expect them. This was such a special moment: the unspoken bond of two strangers supporting each other in need. Earlier, I questioned why I keep running marathons and putting myself through unnecessary pain that makes me forget everything good in life. This playa magic reminds me why.
Sometimes little glimmers or miracles happen when you least expect them. This was such a special moment: the unspoken bond of two strangers supporting each other in need.
Pickles, if you ever read this, thank you for being so rad and supportive during the last part of this ultramarathon. I hope life treats you well and that good things always come your way.
Aftercare for the Burning Man 50k
These nachos were five-star.
Running 31 miles in the desert is no joke! Despite the plethora of calories I consumed along the course, I still burned off all of my energy and needed to replenish it. The good people at Pink Lightning Camp served up baskets of nachos. I got a vegan version with sides of refried beans, red and green salsa, and extra guacamole. All of those carbs, fat, and protein were just what my tired body needed. It was five-star!
“Fucking A!” I shouted as I sat in a chair with my nachos.
I just had to sit down.
My legs were stiff. My lower back hurt from supporting me for 50 kilometers. Endorphins and other dopey neurotransmitters inundated my brain, as I was struggling to keep myself up. I looked at the intricately cut finisher’s medal, how the pink, laser-cut wooden layers were put together. This race crew put a lot of love into it.
I looked around, eating my nachos piece by piece. Slowly my consciousness replenished enough so that I could eventually stand up.
With the finisher’s medal around my neck, I slowly walked back to my camp. I smiled at random people as they congratulated me. I’ve run many marathons before, but something like finishing an ultramarathon in the desert gave me an enormous sense of gratitude and pride. It showed that I can do hard things and come out on the other side with others in solidarity. If twenty-something me could see what her future self could do, her mind would be blown.
Victory at the finish line
It’s been a month now. I haven’t run since that race, and that’s okay. The itch to run will come back soon. There will be more races in the future, with more magical moments and connections to create. There will be more chances to push through the hardest parts and overcome them. For now, I am slowing down and enjoying the changing seasons, as the summer chapter has closed, slowly giving way to winter.
Now that winter is here, so is an abundance of sweet acorn squash. Of all of the winter harvest that’s available, acorn squash is probably my favorite winter vegetable–aside from sweet potatoes, of course (more on that very soon). Since the holidays are in full swing, I whipped up some nutritious stuffed acorn squash that is delightful and colorful–making you feel glowing from the inside out.
Because it’s easy to divvy up this recipe–one stuffed acorn squash half per person–it’s perfect as the main course for dinner parties. It might also be one of the most beautiful dishes I’ve ever shared. Set against the marigold acorn squash, the vibrant orange sweet potatoes contrast with the verdant green kale, as the red, jewel-like pomegranate arils peek through, like little rubies throughout the stuffing.
For the stuffing part, I opted for fair-trade quinoa, a mild-tasting grain that’s packed with protein. Among the veggies are shredded kale and–you guessed it–sweet potatoes. The pomegranate arils offer bursts of sweet against the savory. Chickpeas add more protein, making the stuffed acorn squash a complete meal.
The only broth you need.
The broth that I use here is Better Than Bouillon’s seasoned vegetable base*. A small amount of this paste goes a really long way. You only need to use about one teaspoon to make one cup of vegetable broth. It’s also quite versatile; you can use it in stuffing, soups, mashed potatoes, or anywhere it calls. If you want it to taste stronger, you can add more paste to the water. If you prefer lower sodium, you can dilute it with more water.
I could use the broth in the cartons, but I never need that much at a time. Also, broth from a carton eventually goes bad. With this Better Than Boullion’s broth base, I just use what I need and store the rest in the fridge for another recipe. I have used this broth for many years, and nothing is more convenient or easier to use than this good stuff.
Stuffed Acorn Squash Recipe
It looks like a heart almost.
Sure, the rich colors and flavors of the stuffed acorn squash win the hearts of vegans and omnivores alike. But the real beauty of this dish is that, except for the quinoa and broth ratio, you can adjust exactly how much of each ingredient to put in the stuffing. The measurements here are more like guidelines. Would you rather have more kale than sweet potato? Be my guest. You don’t like chickpeas or would rather substitute with black beans? Make yourself happy. Season to taste, make mistakes. Lean into your intuition, and learn to trust yourself in the kitchen and in life. (Just remember to keep the water to quinoa ratio so it cooks right!)
You’ll most likely have some stuffing left over. And that’s quite okay. It makes a great lunch, and pairs well with soup, salad, or roasted vegetables.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the 2 acorn squashes in half, and scoop the seeds and guts out. Brush the insides with olive oil. Put it in a baking dish, the insides facing up, with 1 inch of water in the dish. Roast in the oven for 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together the seasoned vegetable base with the water to make vegetable broth. Put the broth and the quinoa in a rice cooker and cook.
As the quinoa cooks, set the heat to medium. Heat up a tablespoon of oil in a four-quart pot (or other large pot). Dice up the yellow onion and cook in the oil with the salt and pepper, until it starts to become translucent. Add the minced garlic, stirring frequently.
Add the sweet potato cubes and stir until they’re coated with oil. Cook covered for 13 minutes on medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Add the chickpeas, and keep stirring. It should be nice and fragrant at this point.
By now, the quinoa should just be done cooking. Carefully scoop the cooked quinoa into the pot with the sweet potatoes. Stir around until evenly incorporated.
Add the kale. Stir some more for three more minutes.
Remove the pot from the heat after turning it off. Add the pomegranate arils last, stirring well until all ingredients are evenly distributed.
When the acorn squash is done roasting, take it out of the oven. Place each half on a plate. Then scoop as much stuffing as you want into the acorn squash. It’s okay if it spills out on the sides.
Garnish with pumpkin and sunflower seeds, if you desire.
*Blogger’s note: As an Amazon Associate I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.
For years, I’ve heard reviews gushing over the best vegan five-course dinner only at Harvest Beat. As a vegan in Seattle, I’ve visited most of this city’s plant-based restaurants, the cuisine ranging from greasy spoon to organic salad bars. Harvest Beat has always been on my list of places, yet for years, it had eluded me. A voice in my head said, “Someday, someday, someday…” Yet I just needed to find the right time to try their five-course meal.
Karim is one of the chefs at Harvest Beat.
My friend Karim Gwaduri, a co-chef at Harvest Beat, offered to have me as a special guest at their table. You may remember Karim from the vegan cooking class he taught a couple years ago. Since writing the blog post about his cooking class, Karim has since advanced in his culinary career. He now helps concoct recipes at Harvest Beat. I’ve really enjoyed seeing my friend spread his wings and work his way up the Seattle vegan restaurant network.
Reducing food waste in a vegan lifestyle
As a vegan, I try to be mindful about how much waste my lifestyle produces while reducing my carbon footprint. So, I would like to visit places that reflect those values as well. At Harvest Beat, their mission is to promote a healthier world by lightening their carbon footprint while stepping into their full creative freedom as chefs. As such, their menu changes every four weeks to reflect the available produce during the current season–so that chefs like Karim can create food that’s intuitive and inspired.
Food this vibrant is as good as it looks. It also takes a lot of effort to bring from the farm to the table.
Another way Harvest Beat aims to reduce waste is by using as much as the produce as possible. That means that the parts of a vegetable that are usually thrown out are still edible, such as the white ends of green onion. The restaurant uses organic produce by partnering with local farms throughout the Pacific Northwest. Farmers and foragers scour the region, from Northern California to British Columbia. The PNW terrain has diverse climates, ranging from more arid desert to lush forests. So, more variety of fruits, vegetables, and nuts can be found during different times of the year in these climates. Some of Harvest Beat’s food is even grown on their very own rooftop garden!
All food scraps get composted, which eventually breaks down and recycles back into the earth. So, the food comes full circle (no pun intended) here!
The vegan five-course dinner at Harvest Beat
The ambience of Harvest Beat is intimate and welcoming. Warm, soft lights and tea candles illuminate the restaurant, as plants and art made from found objects give the space a cozy atmosphere. True to their reduced waste mission, the green and tan walls are made from eco-friendly paint, and the bar is made from recycled beach wood and bar top.
When I entered Harvest Beat, the server led me to a special seat with my name on it in front of the kitchen. I got to have a front row seat of watching Karim and his co-chef make the magic happen!
This menu does offer dishes with nuts. If you have any food or nut allergies, you can call the restaurant in advance and they’ll make accommodations for you.
For this evening seating, I asked for the dinner with non-alcoholic pairing. If you prefer alcohol, there are wine pairings with each course. While I waited for dinner to begin, I enjoyed a glass of this pink oat chia honey bush tea that was spiced with cinnamon and cardamom, and tinted with beet juice. I thought it was refreshing to have, since it set the anticipation of the delicious experience to come.
Ten minutes after the last guest arrived, Karim rang the large bell to signal the start of the two-hour dinner. He thanked everyone for coming and introduced them to Harvest Beat’s mission. By knowing where their food comes from, people can appreciate what they have in front of them even more. It offers a fresh perspective that there’s a whole system that brings food from the farm to the table.
The first and second course (plated together)
The first and second courses are always plated together and usually feature a salad and soup combo.
At Harvest Beat, the first and second courses are always plated together. They’re usually a soup and salad combo. These courses start off light and progress towards the more filling main courses before finishing with dessert. Wrapped up in a napkin was a knife, two spoons, and three different forks for the five courses.
For this summer menu, the first course was toasted cumin tomato gazpacho topped with scallions, green chive oil, and summer radish. The flavorful gazpacho was a refreshing summer soup served cold. On the same plate was a grilled romaine Caesar salad with masala-spiced chick peas and pickled red onion. The zesty cashew-based Caesar dressing was salted with caper juice.
The drink pairing for these two courses was a lime-lemon elixir sweetened with agave, with a salty pomegranate pineapple rim. It was almost like drinking a non-alcoholic martini in a wine glass.
The third course
This dish was a play on contrasting textures and flavors.
After warming our appetites up with the gazpacho and Caesar salad, it was time for the third course: Crispy polenta on an arugula pesto with a leek buttery fondue, roasted baby dill carrots, and finished with fried capers.
This third course tasted like a play on a variety of textures and flavors. The crispy outside contrasted with the creamy, softly gritty texture on the inside of the polenta. Likewise, it boasted a delicate balance of salty and sweet. The polenta rested on a pool of bright green arugula and basil pesto–the minty basil balances out the peppery arugula flavors. The leek fondue or butter on top of the polenta was cooked down to a low temperature until it became creamy. Roasting the green beans and carrots brought out their sweetness. Sprinkled on top, the fried capers added a salty, crispy texture.
The mocktail that accompanied it was a purple sparkling macadamia nut elixir made with blackberries, vanilla, and urfa bieber (a Turkish chili), and garnished with a blackberry and a sage leaf.
The fourth course
The fourth course is also the main course.
Then came the fourth course, or the main course of the menu. On an apple-smoked tomato sauce, the summer squash gratin was layered with generous herb cashew cheese at the bottom, zucchinis, and kale, and then topped off with breadcrumbs, roasted morel mushrooms, micro greens, and a balsamic reduction. Half of a roasted tomato completed this dish. As with the third course, roasting brings out the sweetness in the tomato. I remember Karim once saying how the balsamic vinegar, another acid, cuts the acidity of tomatoes.
This Italian-inspired fourth course was my favorite at Harvest Beat. Like the third course, the contrast between savory and sweetness paired well together. And because I have always had a soft spot in my heart for vegan cheese, it made it extra special. This cashew cheese was filling and flavorful. Dare I say that my head was buzzing from the dopamine receptors soaking it all in.
The drink pairing with the summer squash gratin was a sweet basil lemonade with hints of rose, apple, and carrot.
The fifth course
The fifth course was just the right amount of sweet.
There was still one more course left at Harvest Beat, which was the fifth course, or dessert. There were four dainty bite-sized beignets, or fried pastry balls, on top of foraged Saskatoon elderberry coulis, a thin fruit puree used as a sauce. Powdered sugar is sprinkled on to give the beignets a little sweetness. Next to the beignets was a scoop of vanilla coconut ice cream on a bed of crushed granola. The ice cream was made with just three ingredients: coconut milk, vanilla bean, and sweetened with agave nectar.
For this course, I sopped up the pillow-y beignets with the elderberry coulis. The crunchy granola added even more textural contrast with the soft ice cream. I really appreciated how the dessert wasn’t overly sweet. It had just enough sweetness to satisfy me at the end of an elaborate meal.
The last drink was a chilled Harvest Beat tea blend. The mellow flavor was a good ending to this delectable meal.
Last thoughts on the vegan dinner at Harvest Beat
I was so honored to eat at this multi-course vegan dinner at Harvest Beat! I’m proud of Karim for living his truth in vegan fine dining. I’m glad to see how Harvest Beat does its part to lessen its environmental impact by sourcing food locally and reducing as much waste as possible. Sometimes we also need to remind ourselves how much work goes into getting quality food from the farm to the table. Because this is the kind of food that keeps us healthy and alive–while working to leave the planet a better place than we found it.
Two years ago, I had planned to embark on a six-week Eurotrip, visiting Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, UK, and then finally ending the trip with the Vancouver Marathon. Then the pandemic stopped the world, as countries closed their borders in an effort to contain the virus. The travel bans happened two days before I was supposed to depart.
Most of our lives were in limbo the last two years. I wasn’t sure if I would ever be able to make the trip up. Sometimes good things come to those who wait.
It helped to wait an extra month after my work contract ended, too. In the past month, more COVID-19 travel restrictions have lifted for most of the countries I’m visiting. As of today, negative Covid tests for vaccinated travelers are no longer needed for Canada, UK, Italy, France, and Spain. I will need to have a negative test for Portugal, and another for coming back to the U.S. Travelers still need to bring proof of vaccination, too.
Mix and match all black everything
As always, I prefer to pack on the lighter side. The less things I take with me, the easier it is to travel. All I need are:
Several tops and bottoms, plus a dress, to mix and match stylish goth outfits
My computer and charging cables
Vegan travel-sized toiletries
Four pairs of shoes: walking shoes, flats, running shoes, and flip flops.
A fast-drying microfiber towel
Journal and art supplies
A stuffed animal that’s a replica of my BFF Brad’s cat, Bug. He’s my travel buddy.
Running tops and bottoms
A swimsuit
An electrical outlet adapter
Vegan toiletries
Passport and wallet
A Covid-19 test for coming back to the United States
KN-95 masks
My clothes, shoes, toiletries, and pandemic supplies can fit into my 50-liter purple Osprey backpack. All electronics, essential documents, and art supplies go into my smaller bag.
In my previous visits, I would whirl through the city like a spinning top. This time, I took my time and meandered through the Vancouver—it’s best to save energy for the marathon. There’s no need to cram everything in, especially when the city is close enough to Seattle. I can come back any time.
Vancouver is so great. It’s like Seattle’s Canadian cousin, offering ample places to run, cat cafes, and even more vegan options!
Vancouver Marathon
It’s technically my 11th full marathon, since I ran that one 50K.
I kicked off this solo adventure with my 12th marathon in Vancouver. Two years ago, I was registered to run the Vancouver Marathon at the end of the Eurotrip. Then it turned virtual, in an effort to keep everyone safe. This time, I moved the race to the beginning of the trip. It’s so much better to get it out of the way, rather than training for it in Europe.
The Vancouver Marathon is one of the prettiest courses I’ve ever run. Of course, chances are that anywhere you run in the Pacific Northwest, it will be beautiful. This marathon was under verdant, flowering tree canopies, and along the harbor and beaches. It went around Stanley Park before finishing among the shiny glass buildings in downtown Vancouver.
Vegan food in Vancouver
As a marathon runner, I’m always on the hunt for vegan food. Thankfully, getting enough calories while maintaining a cruelty-free diet is easy to do in Vancouver.
Here are a few of my favorite places.
The Kind Cafe & Eatery
The Kind Cafe is a hip vegan eatery with a great name: you can live kindly by choosing a vegan lifestyle where no animals are harmed. One that’s best for the environment and your health. That’s what being vegan is about: living and eating your values while making a world a better place.
This place emanates life with ample natural light, many plants, and loft seating.
Eat to align with your values.
I had the energizing tempeh taco bowl. This protein-packed power bowl had black beans, seasoned tempeh, pickled red onions, shredded purple cabbage, julienned cucumbers, and cauliflower—plus it was drizzled with a special sauce. The tangy pickled veggies perfectly complimented the full-bodied dressing. The cabbage and cauliflower delivered a nice crunch in every bite. This is exactly what I needed.
MeeT at Gastown
Korean-style poutine hits the spot perfectly
If you’re worried about missing all of your favorite food by going vegan, MeeT has you covered. This trendy spot has veganized all of your favorite dishes, ranging from burgers to Canada’s national dish, poutine.
I visited MeeT for dinner after the marathon. After every marathon, you should always treat yourself, whether you did well or so-so. Their menu has an entire poutine section, so I tried the vegan Korean-style poutine: French fries smothered with savory veggie gravy and melty cheese, plus topped with kimchi, nori strips, and sliced green onions. It had the perfect salt, fat, carb, and protein ratio that sated my tired body.
Bonus Bakery
Bonus Bakery is a modern, snug bakery that serves soft gourmet vegan cookies and pastries. The white, silver, and yellow interior—with their yellow star logo—was quite charming, as were their array of delectable vegan baked goods.
It’s best to go to Bonus right as they open. They seem to sell out fast, and for good reason. I got birthday cake and cinnamon roll cookies, plus a croissant that was still warm.
Catfé
Catfé is an adorable cat cafe that I’ll always stop by whenever there’s a chance. This cafe features about 10 sweet adoptable cats, an adorable gift shop, a mini cat art gallery, and a cafe offering coffee drinks and snacks.
This kitty was my favorite that day
I made friends with this black kitty. She was my favorite! Black cats are so underrated. Did you know that they are the least adopted? Maybe it’s because people are superstitious and think that black cats bring bad luck. Maybe people just don’t like the color black. Black cats are just as worthy of love as the others. This little one loved playing with the feather wand.
Of course, the other cats were friendly, too. I also have a soft spot in my heart for tabbies, as seen above.
I highly recommend making a reservation well in advance before visiting, since there’s a good chance the capacity for visitors will be full. As of today, it costs $18 CAD for an hour visit. The drinks and snacks are a little extra.
I enjoyed my time in Vancouver, and couldn’t think of a better way to kick off this Eurotrip with another marathon! I’m currently en route to Rome via a 22-hour layover in London. There will be more art, cats, vegan food, and more. I’m so excited to report my findings soon!
Nestled within the evergreen forest, this quirky, colorful city called Bellingham offers a friendly respite and enough vegan options for a tasty field trip. It’s a two-hour drive north of Seattle, so it makes a great day trip for a couple of vegans looking for a delicious adventure. So, my friend Daren and I ventured to this town that we heard so much about.
Most cities have a personality based on what it has to offer and the livelihood of its residents. At first glance, this town emanates the vibes of a hippie at heart: you’ll find crystal shops and yoga studios throughout the downtown area, as well as vibrant art and organic cafes offering nourishing vegan food.
This is much better than a dumpster fire.
Downtown Bellingham is easy enough to get around. We wandered the city, the streets brought to life with colorful murals and hidden gems like this charming dumpster garden—as opposed to a dumpster fire.
Most importantly, we just had to try all of this food! As I mentioned in other blog posts (see Olympia and Portland), eating our way through a city is a great way to get to know it.
Wild Oat Bakery & Cafe
Our first stop of our Bellingham vegan field trip was getting lunch at Wild Oat Bakery & Cafe. This snug establishment has vegan versions of everyone’s favorite comfort food dishes. And I never turn down comfort food.
I got the Fysh Fillet Sandwich—a different choice since I rarely ate seafood before switching to a vegetarian lifestyle. The rich, melty layers of these vegan filets were quite energizing. The tangy tarter sauce between the fillet sandwich layers was absolutely required; it brought out the flavors of the whole sandwich.
Daren had the classic BLT: a sandwich made with shredded lettuce sliced tomatoes, and crispy coconut bacon. The whole menu has familiar dishes that everyone can enjoy—without harming animals.
V Go’s Vegan Grocery Store
A stop at the vegan grocery store is a must for every vegan field trip.
Our next stop was the newly opened V Go’s vegan grocery store. This shop is owned by the same folks who run Sage Against The Machine food stand (more on this one later).
V Go’s does not mess around with the dairy-free mac & cheese offerings. There’s also a variety of plant-based meats and cheeses. The vegan food industry has come a long way, and seeing all of these options makes the vegan lifestyle even more attractive.
There is plenty of eclectic art on the walls from local artists. The artwork ranges from sunset oil paintings, to wood-burned portraits and foxes in space.
I bought some coconut oil and soy curls, plus a sticker and an iridescent pin for my vest. (The Dr. Bronner’s Magic Chocolate came from a co-op, and I’ll include it here anyway.)
Intermission: “Window-Adopting” outside Neko Cafe
We saw that Neko Cafe, a cat cafe, has a location in Bellingham! But when we stopped in to see the kitties, the time slots were booked for the whole day. It’s highly recommended to make a reservation a few days in advance. We could still adore the lovely cats through the windows, though. Fortunately, there’s another location in Seattle, so we could always make time there too.
Afternoon Scones at Scone Grown
It was time for scones in the afternoon. Daren and I walked over to Scone Grown, a little vegan bakery that is best known for their scones. I ordered a chocolate chip scone, since there was one left—except it was out. The next best flavor was vanilla. The person behind the counter felt bad for not having the chocolate chip one, so they gave me tea on the house to make up for it! The cardboard tray consisted of a vegan vegan scone dusted with powdered sugar, plus paper cups filled with jam and dairy-free whipped cream. It was so perfect: the added earl grey tea with my vegan pastry felt like I was a Brit having afternoon tea.
Sage Against the Machine
Our last stop in our Bellingham vegan field trip was at Sage Against The Machine, the renowned food stand that every vegan in town talks about. This roving eatery has different locations throughout the week. That Sunday, it was at Kulshan Brewing Co.
Earlier, I mentioned that their V Go’s shop carries several brands of vegan mac and cheese. Sage Against The Machine has an entire section of their menu dedicated to many “Mac No Cheese” dishes. Those dishes have ingredients such as succulent barbecue jackfruit, garlic dill sauerkraut, Field Roast vegan sausage, and more. The choices looked so overwhelmingly tasty, that I spent a good 15 minutes deciding which one might be the best. Eventually I settled on the Spicy Mac.
The Spicy Mac was a kick to the senses. It’s topped with tomatoes, spiraled carrots, pickled jalapeños, almond parmesan, chili-lime rolled tortilla chips—and not one, but two hot sauces: buffalo, and locally fermented sauce from HOSA. I’m never one to shy away from spicy food, and this macaroni dish truly delivered. It has a bed of greens underneath, so it at least provides a healthy dose of veggies. Whoever said that vegan mac and cheese isn’t the same would be pleasantly surprised if they tried this one.
Daren got the Buffalo Caesar Chickpea Wrap: a warm pita bread topped with shredded romaine lettuce, buffalo-seasoned chickpeas, spiraled carrots, chopped celery, and mushroom “bacon.” The vegan bacon pieces were actually dehydrated mushroom slices. Daren let me try one. It was crispy around the edges and boasted a smoky flavor.
Coming back one day…
By that time, the day slowly gave way to evening. After satiating ourselves with vegan food, Daren and I decided to head back to Seattle before it got dark.
Bellingham is a city that I’ve heard so much about over the past 10 years, and I’d like to get to know it better in the future. So far, the food in this vegan field trip has won us over. And there seems to be more than what meets the eye during our visit. While we found several wonderful places, this town hinted hidden gems that may reveal themselves the more familiar we become with it. It works like that sometimes.
For now, I’ve made a mental note to come back and see more someday. It’s more relaxed than Seattle, and the slower pace allows you to stop and notice the little things.
Olympia is a city with a small-town charm. It is Washington’s illustrative State Capital—and a vegan-friendly one. The first and only time I’ve ever been was when I was on my way back from the Oregon Coast a year ago. I didn’t have enough time to truly explore, so I made a mental note to come back. It’s like reading a good book that you have to return early: you bookmark it and hope that you can pick up where you left off.
I’m usually not the kind of person who flies by the seat of their pants. But a year after my stop-and-go visit, my friend Daren offered to take us to Olympia for a vegan field trip. It was a hands-down “yes.”
We ventured down to Olympia from Seattle in October, when the leaves are at their prime. I may be a bit biased when I say that autumn is the best time of year to go. But when crimson, vermilion, and golden leaves gently fall as you walk by bright storefronts, you might want to flock over there as well.
A vegan meal to fuel our Olympia adventure
Breakfast burrito with country gravy: all vegan, all delicious
We were hungry when we pulled into the city, so we looked for nourishment to fuel our day. Our first stop was Park Side Cafe, a casual vegan deli inside a grand Victorian home. This place even had a rooftop patio! We collected our food and walked up three flights of stairs to eat and enjoy the view. I enjoyed my breakfast burrito: tofu scramble, spinach, pico de gallo, and dairy-free cheese wrapped up in a flour tortilla, topped with country gravy.
A Victorian B&B next to Park Side Cafe
Downtown Olympia
After we ate, we parked in downtown Olympia and spent the day wandering by foot. Olympia is very pedestrian-friendly like Seattle. And it’s easy enough to orient yourself with the grid street plan. Not to mention taking in all of the street art as you walk by!
Anywhere you go in Olympia, you’ll find colorful murals gracing the exteriors. Some of them are more obvious, and others are hidden in secluded parking lots or in narrow alleys.
This town also brims with quirky, weird creativity anywhere you go. The amount of black-clad folks strolling past us—with their pink, blue, or green hair—made me, a purple-headed visitor, feel like I was right at home.
Favorite shops from the Olympia day trip
All of these items came from one of the shops below.
Olympia has a bunch of adorable establishments for all ages and genders. We meandered through modern apothecaries, gift shops, and cafes to see what might be found.
The Rolling Pin: A hidden gem on the second floor above Parkside Cafe, quirky kitchen shop The Rolling Pin sells culinary gadgets and tools so you can be your own chef. There’s an entire wall of cookbooks—many of which promote the vegan lifestyle. The aprons on the rack are locally made. I couldn’t resist the cupcake apron. Not only am I obsessed with how cupcakes look, but the theme is very appropriate for baking them.
Encore Chocolates and Teas: Encore is like an apothecary of sorts, displaying racks of high-quality teas and chocolate. Many of these teas—black, green, oolong, herbal, and more—have medicinal qualities. Some help fight inflammation, and others soothe a tummy ache. Some of the chocolates are vegan. I bought a bar of dark chocolate infused with anise and cinnamon, and topped with slices of dried figs. This is the kind of chocolate where you want to take your sweet time to make it last longer. Instead of chewing, respect the chocolate. Let it melt in your mouth and immerse yourself in that dopamine high. I might have been a little biased with the outer space background, but the spices warming as the chocolate melts in my mouth was just as satisfying.
Compass Rose: Compass Rose is an independent one-stop-shop offering locally made goods right from our very own Pacific Northwest. Modern, yet down-to-earth and friendly, this bright shop has something unique for many loved ones. You’ll a wide range of gifts, from local art and tasteful jewelry to kitchen and home goods. Some of them are classy; others have sardonic messages in good fun. Last year, when I was single, I bought a bottle of holographic vegan nail polish. This time, I bought a space cat sticker for my space goth partner.
Captain Little: Captain Little is an inviting toy shop for the little ones. The board games, science kits, and paint sets inspire the younger folks to get curious and excited about the world around them. As an adult, I still appreciated what this toy shop has to offer; the cupcake sticker called my name. As an aside, it’s owned by the same group as Compass Rose.
Archibald Sisters: This eclectic gift shop offers a plethora of kooky items, ranging from holographic patches and dream journals to body washes and perfumes. Their selection boasts 150 different fragrances. Being a scent-sitive person, I skipped the perfumes and meandered around the shop. Cat-themed mugs and feminist stickers painted a portrait of the modern cat lady. Racks of bawdy greeting cards gave me and Daren a good chuckle. I bought a glittering avocado pin for another friend.
Seize the day with vegan comfort food in Olympia
After poking through these shops, Daren and I were hungry again. So, we went to Wayside Vegan. Because of COVID-19, they are still take-out only. I ordered what looked like the most scrumptious item on the menu: the BBQ rib plate. It has a side of melt-y macaroni and cheese and a bed of mashed potatoes, on which a pool of brown gravy sits on top. The steamed collard greens added a healthy dose of veggies. Finally, the sticky, tangy, pull-apart barbecue seitan “ribs” were the center of this hearty meal.
It really was Vegan AF.
Daren and I took our meals to his car. He opened the hatchback, and we ate sitting in the back, watching the world go by in this quaint city.
Even meat eaters would love this.
I could have opted for the healthier dish that my friend had: a lighter sandwich with a side of fresh sprouts. Every time I explore a new city, I want to know the best dish from the best vegan restaurant. The must-have on the menu. So that I can report back to our friends: You must try this. Yes, being vegan generally means eating healthier without animal fats or cholesterol. We should all eat more veggies. But if it means that a dish like this can sway a meat eater to opt vegan for at least one meal, they should know about this one.
A painting from the Park Side cafe
The welcoming vegan vibe from Olympia keeps visitors coming back
The sun was slowly setting. After Daren and I finished our meals, we headed up north back to Seattle.
While Olympia is a small city, it’s brimming with a friendly charm. It’s slower than Seattle, and that’s because you feel relaxed enough to look it in the eye and take it in. If Seattle were a person, she’d be a sleek tech guru on the go with a latte. She’s friendly, but too busy to slow down at first glance. Olympia, on the other hand, would be a retired state worker who took up pottery and knitting as a grandma. She may live that omnivore life, and still wants to make sure that vegans have a place here too. Because maybe, eventually, vegans like myself will come back one day.
Eight months passed when I took a break from running. After the Summer Camp Run 50k and many marathons, I honored my body’s request for rest.
When I started back up in April to train for the virtual Boston Marathon, about 90 percent of my endurance had been lost. That meant starting from the beginning and rebuilding my endurance from the ground up. Because I’ve already done so many marathons, it didn’t take long for my body to quickly bounce back. It knew what to expect.
Still, training for my tenth marathon was quite a journey. It began just as I started my new dream job, finished moving to a new home, and established a stronger relationship with my new partner. The sudden life upgrades threw challenges, as I navigated the intricate workings of my senior-level job—on top of balancing training, rest, self-care, a writing class, and quality time with my partner.
About two-thirds through the training, I had two running assessments with MoveMend. (See Part 1 and Part 2.) Those assessments offered recommendations on adjusting my form to run better. Tanner also showed me a few hip strengthening exercises to stay strong when the going gets tough—and trust me when I say it always does during a marathon.
Ideally, I would have applied these recommendations at the beginning of training. Introducing them just weeks before the actual marathon still helped some. These exercises and adjustments can take a couple months for me to fully benefit from. But at least I have these tools to apply to the next race.
What I brought under the best conditions
For the race, I brought the usual: my hydration pack with energy gels, my wallet, and my phone. The Boston Marathon has an official race app to record the time and distance. I used it to do the virtual race, in addition to the Strava app.
The weather was perfect: 50 degrees and cloudy with just a hint of breeze. That’s the best weather to run in. The body warms up during exercise, so it doesn’t feel like 50 degrees when you get going. I could already feel that it was going to be a good day.
My virtual Boston Marathon path
Starting from Capitol Hill, I ran down the hill through the Central District. It felt like my feet had wings! I soared along the trail leading to the I-90 bridge. I ran across the bridge over Lake Washington and into Mercer Island. I continued east on the trail until I reached Bellevue. From Bellevue, I turned north, running up Downtown among the glittering buildings. I kept going strong and reached the SR 520 pedestrian bridge to get back to Seattle.
For the first 20 miles, I ran at a consistent pace. I was on track for a sub four-hour finishing time. But after the 20th mile at North Lake Union, my pace gradually slowed until my feet were shuffling. I forced myself to run faster, but my body wouldn’t keep the pace for long.
The 20th mile is usually where the challenges begin. The biggest long run before the race is 20 miles, so I’m wasn’t used to running past that distance—especially after taking eight months off. At that point, I had burned through my body’s energy reserves, including all of the Clif gels.
When this happens, it’s like tearing through another realm beyond. Pastel pink, blue, and green gradients shifted before my eyes, the heavenly hallucinations illuminating the overcast skies. The world fell away, and at the same time, I was at one with the world and the path before me, winding around the lake. Everything felt far away: pain was an abstract concept, the ground detached from my feet, and my consciousness was removed from whatever physical reality this was anymore.
The opiated dissociation during these last few miles is probably the closest feeling I can imagine what it’s like floating on a morphine cloud. It usually happens as you gather the last of your will to the finish. In an in-person race, it’s much easier because the energy of the crowds emanates the good ju-ju, or positive energy. The route is also cut out for you, which means no guesswork on where to go. But when you’re doing your own route with somewhat unfamiliar intersections, it takes a little more focus to stay on the right track. It took an even greater focus to tackle the last stretch before the finish.
Because I started from Capitol Hill, that meant that I had to end in Capitol Hill. Around Mile 25, there was a steep overpass that made me reexamine my life choices. But gosh darn it, the views were astounding: it overlooked Lake Union, the Space Needle, and the city that I get to call my home. It continued up a hill that may have been a mile long total. At that point, I had no understanding of the past or future. As far as I knew, that hill would go on forever.
By the time I reached Broadway, I ran a little further down until my Strava ticked 26.2 miles. But the Boston Marathon app only read 25.9. That’s how it is sometimes. At least I was on flat ground. I gathered what little remaining energy I had left and sprinted the last .3 miles down Pike Street.
I crossed the invisible finish line.
The sweet endorphins broke through the floodgates of my brain. I just ran my tenth marathon. And I finished at 04:54:25, my fastest virtual time yet!
Why it means a lot to me
Realizing that I’ve run ten marathons feels like a warm hug. As someone who has always struggled with depression and anxiety in an unsupportive environment growing up—all which made it harder to move forward in life—this achievement means a lot to me. When I was younger, my self-doubt and fear of failure were so severe that it felt safer to not try anything at all. You could imagine how that can impact anyone. My mental health regressed as pieces of myself disappeared. My first marathon in 2008 was a desperate attempt to build some resilience. It never occurred to me that I would one day have finished a double-digit quantity of marathons.
A journey like running a marathon coincides with the life lessons we go through. These don’t just go on a t-shirt. They’re hard-fought. The resilience snowballs in an upward spiral over the years, like unlocking new levels in a video game. Why not throw in some long-term traveling, a career change, sobriety, maybe a lovely partner to come home to?
…And before I know it, I’m here.
Treat yo’self…with Wayward Vegan
The Biscuit Mountain from Wayward Vegan
Of course, no marathon day is complete without a delicious reward. After running a distance like that, it’s so important to treat yourself. You deserve something nice. For me, that reward is the best vegan food I can find.
The Roosevelt light rail station recently opened, so I zipped to Wayward Vegan from Capitol Hill. There, the melt-in-your-mouth Biscuit Mountain was waiting for me to consume it in all of its salty glory. This dish features two fluffy herb biscuits on a bed of fresh spinach, topped with corn and vegan bacon crumbles—and smothered with decadent country gravy. A side of hash browns offers additional crispy deliciousness. This meal has the perfect salt-fat-carb-protein ratio that my tired body craved.
Taking my time
Today is the first time I hit the road since the marathon two weeks ago. I get to rest a little now. I’m sure there will be another race in the future. Maybe I’ll run the Boston Marathon in Boston one day. Maybe.
Circumduction (how much my feet swing out and cross over my body’s midline)
Cadence (the steps per minute)
Running quieter (I’m very stomp-y)
And more
The past three weeks, I applied Tanner’s recommendations to fix my running form. These small adjustments make a big impact, and keeping this form up has been harder than expected. With each stride, I did my best to run quieter while keeping my cadence to 175 steps per minute. Staying with the beat has been physically and mentally challenging. Deliberately aligning my body while running takes a kind of focus that will take some time to build.
I also found that I space out much more than I realize when running. When that happens, I don’t even notice it. My mind drifts into auto-pilot, and before I know it, I’m slogging up a hill with my old habits.
When I come back to earth, I nudge my footsteps back into place. My heart rate goes through the roof as I do my best to stay with the beat.
When I reported all of this back to Tanner, he said that other runners have similar experiences. Adjusting the form will take longer than three weeks. It could be a couple of months before these adjustments start to feel natural.
Capacity vs. load
The body has a certain capacity for stress, or load, that it can handle. In this case, my load is the increasing weekly mileage during marathon training.
Running is physically stressful, largely because of the feet’s initial contact with the ground. With every foot step, the impact force is 2 1/2 to five times the body weight upon landing. Multiply that by 26.2 miles, and that’s tons upon tons of force that the body is absorbing.
The way I increase my capacity is by gradually putting on more mileage every week, and then scaling it back every three weeks. Every week, I push my body just beyond its max capacity to adapt—especially with the long runs. It’s good to do that often enough to get stronger. But if I did that every day without giving my body a chance to catch up, that can lead to an injury for sure.
I follow the training plan and increase my capacity safely. All is well, unless I’m not eating or sleeping enough, or even if I’m stressed. (I even shared what helps me get more rest after noticing my performance had seen better days.) It makes perfect sense, because without enough rest, my body can’t increase its capacity for a bigger load, or more miles. If I’m not taking care of myself, then my body won’t adapt as well.
Posterior chain exercises
My quadriceps (front thigh muscles) have been doing most of the work when I run, so it would be helpful to strengthen my posterior chain, or the backside of my body: the glutes (the butt muscles), hamstrings (the back of the thigh), and calves. When the backside of my legs work together, that would give more power to push me forward as I run. This is especially important as I run up those steep Seattle hills; it means switching to a lower gear.
Doing these posterior chain exercises would help make my hips stable, so there’s less circumduction. It would be easier to keep a good running form for longer as well. Maybe that would make my slight hip flexor pain feel better.
Tanner introduced four different exercises to help strengthen my hips so that I can run stronger. He recommended doing each set until reaching fatigue, and then switching to the other side. As far as how often to do these, he said that at least once a week is enough.
Single-leg dead lifts
This exercise tested my balance. I focused on my breath and core, and slowly hinged forward at the hip on one leg with a 20-pound kettlebell. I stopped when I felt a good stretch in the hamstring. Then I slowly stood up to the starting point without putting my raised foot on the ground. I continued with more reps, dipping forward again like one of those toy drinking birds. My right leg is stronger, but I have better balance on my left leg. I kept doing the dead lifts on each side until my hamstrings burned.
Side plank hip abduction
With my elbow firmly planted on the ground below my shoulder, I slowly dipped my hips as closely to the ground as possible and then raised them back up. I could feel the burn on my lower back and glutes.
From my experience, I find it super helpful to strengthen the core. When started I running more marathons, my lower back would ache from holding myself up for many miles. A strong core gives more support for those long distances.
Single-leg heel raises
A wooden block or a stool could be used for single leg heel raises. It felt easy at first. It wasn’t long until my calves burned as I slowly pushed my weight onto the ball of my foot. After about 12 of these, I switched to the other leg.
Single-leg sit-to-stand
The single-leg sit-to-stand exercise was the hardest. I had to push myself to stand using just one leg without momentum. At first, I focused all of the energy in each of my quads, or front thighs, to push me up. I fell over a couple times. Then I remembered to shift the power source towards my glutes and hamstrings. Not only did using those muscles give me better balance, they also lifted me more effectively. This exercise was still so hard! It didn’t take many reps to be done with this one, so it must be very effective.
Applying what I learned at MoveMend to run better
Now that I have a better idea of how to run stronger, I can apply what I learned from MoveMend and hopefully get a faster time. I’m still mindful of keeping my footsteps quieter as I run to a higher cadence. Changing old habits is going to take some energy and patience. These new posterior chain exercises should make me more stable, so that I can use my energy to run stronger. Eventually all of this will become second nature. Maybe running will be even more enjoyable, since I know how to move better.
*Thank you, MoveMend, for sponsoring this post.
Disclaimer: This blog is not intended as medical or professional advice. I’m sharing my experiences, and they should not be a substitute for physical therapy advice for anyone. Any exercise has potential to cause injury or pain if it’s done incorrectly. You should consult with a physical therapist or doctor for any medical advice.
