Eurotrip 2022: Barcelona, Spain

Park Güell

Barcelona, España (Spain) has been on my Eurotrip bucket list for quite sometime. Brimming with history and little secrets, I have been very excited to see what art, architecture, and vegan food awaits in this vibrant Catalan city… And it truly lives up to its charm.

When I was in high school, I took three years of Spanish. By the time I was done, I could read at a sixth-grade level… And then I didn’t use the language again for 20 years. Now I have been practicing Spanish every day for the past two months.

Flag of Catalonia

The thing is that in Barcelona, the main language is Catalan. Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia, a semi-autonomous region that has its own distinctive language, flag, parliament, and traditions. It enjoyed autonomy before the Spanish Civil War. But today, the Catalonian nationalists believe their tax money gets invested more in other parts of Spain than what they get in return. Today, there’s still a push for independence–even though the majority of residents didn’t vote for it 2014.

Signs in Barcelona display three languages: Catalan as the main one, then Spanish, and then English. The locals seem to be fluent in all three. I don’t know any Catalan, so I did my best with the Spanish that I knew. Still, the locals seemed pleased that I was trying. I was surprised by the number of people who speak English, but I preferred not to use it this time. 🙂

Where I stayed and how I got around in Barcelona

I stayed at the hip hostel, Generator, which was set in the neighborhood, Grácia. It’s close enough to see the important stuff while being at the edge of the little side streets. In the side streets, the shops and eateries offered more reasonable prices and far less crowds than, say, La Rambla (the main touristy street).

Barcelona, like most major European cities, has a very efficient transportation system. A 4-day metro pass costs €31. I think it pays for itself quickly.

When I wasn’t taking the metro, I was walking through the streets of Grácia, discovering beautiful street art around corners and in random places.

The renowned architect, Antoni Gaudí

I’ve heard of Antoni Gaudí’s architectural work, and it seemed like a world away.

Park Güell

Gaudí worked in numerous styles, ranging from Catalan Modernisme to Neo-Gothic. Park Güell (pronounced “Gwell”), an Art Nouveau and Modernisme attraction, was inspired by nature, as the organic shapes and structures show. The curves and slopes integrate with the mountain, as the Mediterranean vegetation blends seamlessly with the whole park. It feels so alive here, almost like it’s living and breathing. Colorful mosaics and glass tiles give the park an extra whimsical touch, further making it a beautiful wonderland.

Casa Batlló

Casa Batlló boasts motifs inspired by bones and teeth on the exterior, and even iridescent dragon scales for the roof. Inside, the curving lines and structures are reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea, the stained glass windows borrowing from the likes of turtle shells, sea mollusks and the flowing nature of water. Gaudí brilliantly uses light and color to blend with the organic structure of the house.

Not only is this building aesthetically pleasing, it’s also quite functional! There’s a sophisticated ventilation system that is disguised as gills of a fish, as to promote airflow and keep the building cool during the hot summer days. In the sun-filled atrium, the further you go up, the tiles slowly change to a darker blue and the windows gradually get smaller. This is so that every floor has equal lighting.

La Sagrada Familia

La Sagrada Família is by far Gaudí’s most famous work. While it’s unfinished, you cannot deny that it’s quite impressive. When I left the subway station, I turned around…and there it was.

The Neo-Gothic basilica has so much detail on the exterior that you could spend hours surveying the intricacies and still discover something new the next time you look at it. Gaudí planned everything that you see down to the last detail–whether it’s the story of Jesus Christ, Biblical scenes, or the symbolism behind some of the animals that you see.

To say that the interior of La Sagrada Família was a real treat is an understatement. Inside, no straight lines exist as the ornate columns twist and turn towards the vortex of the ceiling. Rainbows drench the interior of the basilica through the colorful stained glass windows, illuminating the entire space with light and color. It almost felt like even the interior was singing, like I could see sound!

It costs about €30 to get in, and it’s worth it. This is Gaudí’s most talked about masterpiece, and for good reason.

Moco Museum in Barcelona

The Moco Museum (Modern and Contemporary Art) showcases many contemporary artists such as Andy Warhol, Yayoi Kusama, Banksy, Guillermo Lorca, and more.

The exhibit was called, “In Art We Trust.” Inspired by the past and based in the present, the artists here create art that evokes the kind of future that we can all live and breathe in. Through thought-provoking work, these artist envision a world that’s better for everyone.

Here are some of my favorite works.

Yayoi Kusuma’s “Night of Stars”

“My life is a dot lost among thousands of other dots.”

Yayoi Kusama

Andy Warhol’s “1 Colored Marilyn”

It’s Andy Warhol’s iconic Marilyn Monroe screen prints, except the colors are in reverse.

Banksy’s “Forgive Us Our Trespassing”

Banksy, the infamous anonymous street artist, has always made his mark in the world. Here, “Forgive Us Our Trespassing” depicts a young boy praying by a colorful, graffitied church. Here, this boy has his belief system and sacred place. There’s a sweetness about his practice, since he thinks that praying will make life work out for him. And that’s one reason why many people pray: to have solace and peace. And if you don’t fit in, make your own.

Guillermo Lorca “The Little Gardeners”

Guillermo Lorea’s large surreal works have so much going on. Blending magic and surrealism, the fairy-tale settings look violent at first glance. I had to stop and see what the narrative might be. A lot of it was up to the viewer’s interpretation, since there was a delicate balance between nature and humankind, and darkness and hope.

In “The Little Gardeners,” carnage unfolds as fierce animals compete amid large blooming pink poppies. The two little girls seem totally unfazed by the violence going around them, as if this is all a part of life and survival. But they are clearly not casual bystanders to the action. The girl with the blue butterfly wings seems to be undergoing a transformation, perhaps growing out of innocence.

Digital Immersive Art in Moco Barcelona

There’s also a digital immersive art exhibit that was my favorite part. This room here is by Studio Irma. The colors of the lights change to the beats of the tranquil music, offering a warm and safe place in the universe.

Intermission: God Is An Astronaut in Barcelona

When I embarked on this journey, most of it was planned out. Sometimes it’s better to not have everything set in stone, in case you need some leeway. In this case, I saw a concert for the first time internationally.

God Is An Astronaut is an Irish post-rock band that I’ve been listening to since 2013. I’ve always wanted to see them, yet they didn’t come to Seattle the last time they toured in the U.S. My new travel friend Desline that I met in a Paris hostel mentioned they were on tour. I checked the tour dates, and sure enough, they were going to be in Barcelona the same time as my visit! I immediately bought tickets four days before the show.

It can be hard to describe GIAA’s music. Their older stuff is ethereal and existential like you’re moving through life in the cosmic greatness of the universe. The music is pensive and evocative, taking you through past and future lives. I listened to them so much in my mid-to-late 20s, as I navigated through the complex trauma in my life.

Their newer music is heavier and more raw, and to me, it sounds quite different. GIAA played songs from throughout their 20-year career. I happened to be in the front and center of the stage, watching those guys pour their souls into the show.

Hello, random person in the back!

By the time, they played one of my favorite songs, “Dust and Echoes,” it felt like I was connected with every soul in the audience. Never mind that I don’t know Catalan, or that I’m not quite yet fluent in Spanish. The music is what we were all there for; this shared sense of humanity is what ties us all together.

Vegan Food in Barcelona

Roasted vegetables with romesco sauce

Barcelona offers a plethora of vegan food within walking distance. It’s extremely easy to eat vegan here, whether you’re looking for tapas or the Spanish national dish, paella. As I mentioned earlier, having a base in Grácia meant that many vegan options were just a stone’s throw away.

Tapas are like an appetizer or a small dish. You can order two or three to have as a full meal. In many restaurants in Barcelona, it’s easy to order grilled vegetables for tapas. I have also discovered tangy tomato-based romesco sauce to dip these veggies.

You may notice that many establishments close for a couple hours in the afternoon, as part of the Spanish tradition of the siesta, or afternoon nap. They do tend to stay open later into the night though. It’s the Spanish way.

Vegetalia

Paella is Spain’s national dish.

I needed to try paella somewhere, especially since it’s a new dish. Vegetalia in the Gothic Quarter delivered the savory vegan dish with faux chicken strips and chunks of veggies in yellow seasoned rice. I had the smaller portion and had a small salad with it.

La Besneta

La Besneta is a pastelería (a shop that sells pastries) that offers many vegan pastries that were so rich and tasty that you wouldn’t believe they’re vegan. Pictured here are little tarts with fresh berries and edible flowers.

Xurreria Trebol

Xurreria Trebol offers several vegan churros. I tried the chocolate-cream-filled one, and it sent my dopamine receptors firing to the moon and back! I don’t remember the last time I’ve had a churro. I’ve always been under the impression that they’re not vegan, and I found out that they traditionally are!

Vegan Junk Food Bar

Vegan Junk Food Bar is a Dutch-based vegan restaurant that has a location in Barcelona. I asked for the Daddy Burger, and it has vegan chicken strips, cheeze, pickles, lettuce, tomato, and a special blue Daddy Sauce that tasted like mayo–all inside a pink sesame seed bun. The flavor is just as vibrant as the colors–which is proof that being vegan is definitely not boring!

Vegan Junk Food Bar truly is a vegan heaven with its décor, food, and stylish ambience. I really wish they would expand to the United States; more specifically, Seattle.

Nabucco Obrador Vegetarià

Nabucco Obrador Vegetarià is a warm vegan cafe just blocks away from the hostel in Grácia. I wanted one last thing to remember this friendly neighborhood by, so I asked for one of their vegan cashew cheesecakes with fresh berries on top. It kept me satiated through the train ride to Madrid.

More important things in Barcelona: Cats

Of course, I needed to have a cat fix. Espai de Gats in Grácia has several cats for you to hang out with while you sip coffee or nibble on a pastry. This cat cafe promotes feline welfare by having the cats sterilized and vaccinated, so they’re healthy when they get adopted into their new home. Many of these cats were found abandoned or malnourished, and have been nursed back health. This cat cafe also hosts workshops about feline care and welfare, so the public can be educated on building a more compassionate world for these wonderful animals.

Leaving Barcelona

I took one last look around Barcelona. I even swam in the warm waters of the beautiful beach, my first time swimming in the Mediterranean Sea.

Barcelona is a city that offers its gems with pride, and yet there are more where you’re willing to look. From art and architecture, to colorful vegan food and cats, this is a very friendly city that I must return to one day.

Eurotrip 2022: Paris, France

Bonjour! I have returned to Paris, France as part of Eurotrip 2022.

The last time I was in that city was in December 2018, and even then, it was a whirlwind tour through France. To be honest, my first impression of Paris wasn’t very good. During that time, Paris was cold, dark and gray. Maybe people weren’t in the best mood because it was winter. Then again, I only spent two nights there, so I missed a lot of what makes the city special. I made it a point to revisit, because some things are worth giving another go.

This time, I visited when it’s warm, vibrant, and green. Paris has truly come to life in the summer, which goes to show that sometimes things need a second chance. Maybe revisiting a place needs to come from a different perspective, or a different season. Coming back here was the right choice, because now I can see what Paris truly has to offer.

Art in Paris: The Museums

Since I’m still in the second week of Eurotrip 2022, I have found that it’s important to pace myself when going to museums. Paris has many landmarks, museums, and history to uncover, and it’s tempting to try to do as much as possible. After all, it is exciting to delve into the extensive political and artistic history of this legendary city. But one thing I’ve noticed is that I’m experiencing the first stages of museum burn-out. So, this time I just selected two art museums to go to. There will be more art museums to visit later this trip.

The Louvre

The Louvre is the most visited art museum in the world, and it houses the most famous works of art such as the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. It’s inside the Louvre Palace, a 13th-century fortress, and you can see the remnants of the fortress in the lowest floor of the museum. It has expanded since, and today it offers the huge art collection that we see today.

The Louvre exhibits cover a wide time period, spanning from the beginning of ancient civilizations (Roman, Greek, Egyptian) to up to the 19th century. The museum is so massive, that you can easily spend the entire day in there–or even two days if you really want to stop and take your time. As with most museums, I highly recommend buying your tickets in advance to avoid waiting in line. Instead, you can go through security and the entrance fairly quickly.

Obligatory selfie with the Mona Lisa

Of course, I wasn’t going to check out of this life without seeing Leonardo di Vinci’s “Mona Lisa”–arguably the world’s most famous painting, which, by the way, is smaller than I expected.

And then there’s the Venus de Milo sculpture, another iconic masterpiece from my art history days.

Then there’s the ornate Apollo Room, which was the model of the Palace of Versailles Hall of Mirrors. Personally, it beats taking the trip all the way out to Versailles.

I ended up spending five hours at the Louvre! That’s the only thing I did for the entire day. To be honest, while I loved it, limiting the number of museums I visited this time was good for me because it can be sensory overload after a while. When I saw less museums, I could take my time in them more and really appreciate what humanity is capable of creating.

The Centre Pompidou

The Centre Pompidou has such a unique architecture, and I have never seen anything quite like it. Colorful pipes stories high wrap vertically around the glass museum, while on the other side, an escalator in a clear tube zig-zags up the avant-garde building. This innovative facade is a real testament to the modern art it houses, ranging from Surrealism to Dada art genres.

This exhibition at the Centre Pompidou featured multiple works by the renowned fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent, who created dresses inspired by the artworks of the modern artists.

Piet Mondrian “Composition en rouge, bleu et blanc II”
Henri Matisse “La Blouse roumaine”
Pablo Picasso “Le Violon”

There were several installations, which I loved. This one was my absolute favorite.

Yaacov Agam “Aménagement de l’antichambre des appartements privés du Palais de l’Élysée pour le président Georges Pompidou”
Vassily Kandinsky “Auf Spitzen”

There’s even an entire library dedicated to the acclaimed abstract artist, Vassily Kandinsky, that’s open by appointment only for those with proper research credentials.

Vegan Food Tour in Paris with Thory and Tom

As an introvert, I have no problem with enjoying my own company and imaginative world. Being a solo traveler, I can do many things on my own terms and be in full control of these plans. Doing all of this on my own has been truly an empowering experience, because I have learned to tap into the inner resources and take initiative. But after a while, I have been feeling a little bit of loneliness and decision fatigue.

My best friend Karim introduced me to his French friend, Thory. And then Thory introduced me to her friend, Tom. I am not familiar with French food, especially since most of it isn’t vegan. But Thory and Tom knew all the best spots in town. Thory graciously planned out an entire vegan food tour for us to try.

Urban Greener

Brunch at Urban Greener
Cheers!

We met at Urban Greener by the neighborhood of Montemartre. It’s a snug bistro that offered brunch that Saturday morning. Thory and I got the Tofu Benedict, while Tom enjoyed his pancakes. My Tofu Benedict was on a slightly sweet pancake, so the contrast between sweet and savory was a flavorful balance.

Getting around Paris with friends and food

After brunch, we walked up hilly Montmartre to the grand Sacre Coeur Basilica. When we made it back down to the other side of the hill, Thory suggested we rent scooters and zip through Paris.

Riding on a scooter is definitely better than walking! It opened up a greater sense of freedom, as Thory navigated us through the leafy streets of Paris. Sharing the road with cars and bikes, while dodging lamp posts, traffic barriers, and parked cars, was part of the exhilarating fun, as wind whipped through my long purple hair. Never mind that I am 35 years old. Riding a scooter in Paris made me feel young and free again…maybe even a little dangerous.

There was another vegan cafe called Copper Branch. I got a peanut butter brownie. Unfortunately, I was so excited to eat it that I forgot to take a photo!

At a stoplight, I turned my head to the left and saw this iconic 13th-century cathedral.

“Is that…the Notre Dame?” I asked.

“Ouiiiii!” Thory said.

The Notre Dame is yet another landmark building, an excellent example of Gothic architecture–which is characterized by flying buttresses, pointed arches, ornate details, and stained glass. It caught on fire several years ago, and it’s still closed to the public. And we just happened to pass by it!

Land & Monkeys

Tom eventually had to leave for work, so it was just Thory and me. We went to Land & Monkeys, which is a vegan French bakery that sells all sorts of pastries and desserts. I was blown away by how many choices they were! I had to get the cinnamon roll, pain au chocolat, and a type of long brioche with chocolate chips.

Aujourdhui Demain

Our last stop was at Aujourd’hui Demain, a vegan clothing shop, bistro, and grocery store all under one roof. This might be the first time I’ve seen a multi-purpose vegan establishment like this!

The Selfish Burger: a burger so good, that it lives up to the fact that you don’t want to share.

I had the unforgettable Selfish Burger, which is a vegan fish filet sandwich with micro greens, pesto, and tangy tartar sauce inside fluffy brioche bread. It was pretty hard to decide what to get, because everything looked so vibrant, nourishing, and flavorful.

Au Revoir, Paris

I’m so glad that I had returned to Paris! A city as elegant as this one deserved a second chance, that’s for sure. Sometimes all it takes is a different approach and a mind open enough to look past the first impressions. Paris is indeed brighter this time of year, and more welcoming and ready to have you.

Eurotrip 2022: Venice, Italy

Greetings from Venezia!

Venice (or Venezia, as the locals call it) is a legendary city where the 14th century came and literally never left. It has been described as the most beautiful city in the world, with its treasure trove of art, architecture, and political and military history.

Where I Stayed and How I Got Around in Venice

Some stuff from Rome, but mostly mementos from Venezia

I stayed for four full days and three nights, which felt like enough to visit Venice. One thing to consider is that many of the museums and attractions I was interested in are closed on Mondays.

For the museums, I purchased the Venezia Unica All-City pass for about €50, which grants access to 13 museums throughout Venice, and many more attractions. It pays for itself quite quickly and gives the best bang for your buck. However, it doesn’t work for all museums in Venice, such as the Gallerie dell’Academia art museum or the Biennale exhibit; you have to buy those separately. It’s also a separate pass from the vaporetto, or water bus.

Rialto Bridge goes over the Grand Canal. Notice the vaporetto station in the background.

Venice is a pedestrian-only town that’s a cluster of little islands separated by canals and connected with bridges. I mostly walked around, although having a 72-hour vaporetto pass was useful. Venice is a labyrinth of walkways, so my phone with Google Maps and GPS came in very handy—especially when I inevitably got lost.

I scored this lovely room by Saint Mark’s Piazza. This traditional room features bright orange brocade wallpaper and exposed-beam ceilings, retaining its old-world charm. Usually I prefer hostels to stay within budget, but…this is Venice. This was the perfect yet affordable place to stay.

Venice is very crowded during the day! There are often pedestrian traffic jams in the narrow alleys. As an introvert, crowds can feel overwhelming at times. So I would wake up every day before sunrise to enjoy a little quiet time before the morning rush. Piazza San Marco is tranquil as the sun comes up, as the street workers sweep the city walkways.

My Favorite Places in Venice

Here are some of my favorite places in Venice.

Libreria Acqua Alta

Libreria Acqua Alta is a cozy vintage bookstore, and a must for any book or cat lover. Upon entering, you can smell the musty old pages; the bookshop has sustained years of flooding. This gem is full of personality and features the iconic stairs that are made of older, damaged books. You can find many second-hand or out-of-print books here. Five cats also live in the establishment, which adds to the shop’s charm.

La Tecia Vegana

Venice isn’t really known for vegan food, and it’s been slim pickings. But there’s one vegan restaurant on the northwestern part of the city called La Tecia Vegana.

La Tecia Vegana offers a multi-course Italian meal: starters, first course, main course, sides, and dessert. The portions are just a little smaller so that you can pick and choose your courses for the full meal. Or you can just have one and call it good.

I picked the seitan and mushroom black and white ravioli as the first course, and roasted seitan with whole wheat and dried fruit as the main course. I paused between bites to notice the various flavors: oregano, onion, garlic, the slight nuttiness of olive oil, and the sweet dried fruit contrasting the savory gravy of the seitan roast.

Museums in Venice

Since Venice is full of history and wonder, the museums throughout the city showcase great works throughout time.

Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale)

Standing before the Doge Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica

Doge’s Palace is the opulent 14th-century Gothic palace that was the heart of political life and the seat of power of Venice. It’s where the duke—the supreme leader of the city back then—would reside. You can tour through the various chambers that display large-scale paintings on ceilings and walls, plus the creepy prison underground.

Gallerie dell’Academia

Giambattista Tiepolo “L’esaltazione della Croce”

The Gallerie dell’Academia is an art gallery that displays art before the 19th century. It’s housed in a former art academy that taught figure, portrait, landscape, and sculpture. Today, it’s focused on preserving and exhibiting artwork.

Oddly enough, it’s where Leonardo di Vinci’s famous work, Vitruvian Man, lives. But it’s rarely displayed to the public, since the work, which is on paper, is fragile and sensitive to light.

Ca’Rezzonico

I could crane my neck and look at these beauties all day.

The ornate Ca’Rezzonico museum shows fine art and furniture of 18th-century rococo Venice, such as oil portraits of aristocratic society to colorful Murano-made glass chandeliers. I thought all of it was so beautiful. You get a glimpse of what aristocratic Venetian life was like during that time.

Burano

As the vaporetto pulls up to the docking station in Burano, the bright, multi-colored houses emerge from the horizon, greeting you. Burano is a small fishing island that is best known for its colorful homes and lacework. Like Venice, it’s made of tiny islands with bridges and canals. There’s even an entire lace museum dedicated to the craft. But lace-making dwindled because it’s so expensive and time-consuming. As an aside, the other island, Murano, is best known for its glass-blowing.

The colorful island of Burano

I took the hour-long Vaporetto ride to Burano. This island, with its 2,400 residents, is small enough to walk the circumference in an hour. I wonder what it’s like growing up on an island that small?

I spent a couple hours walking around Burano and admiring the multi-colored houses. The patches of grassy areas looking out towards the lagoon, the leaning clock tower, and little shops offering small lace artwork moved me. Then I visited the lace museum. For food, there weren’t many vegan options available, but I did find a shop called Dai Fradei that offers vegan gelato.

Vegan gelato from Dai Fradei
Handmade lace from the Burano Lace Museum

Biennale Art Exhibit in Venice

La Biennale is an enormous international art and cultural exhibition hosted in Venice every year. This year’s theme was “The Milk of Dreams,” an interplay between imagination and the human condition asking intriguing questions of how we as a world can coexist and depend on one another—especially when navigating the pandemic, social and political tensions, and the threat of climate change.

The exhibit is set in the buildings within the Arsenale and Biennale Gardens, a 10-minute walk apart—making this is an all-day affair. The whole show was incredible. Here are some of my favorite works.

Firelei Báez
Barbara Krueger
Myrlande Constant

Leaving Venice

Somewhere I read that Venice is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The real setting is more elegant than what the photos can ever show. Every little detail and corner offers beauty, intrigue, and a story. On my last day, I took one more look around, searing the details into my memory.

This is a unique city that I will never forget.

Eurotrip 2022: Rome, Italy

Greetings from the Colosseum!

Ciao! Rome is my first stop in Italy of this 2022 Eurotrip. Here’s a fun fact about me: I am one-quarter Italian, and I’ve always wanted to visit the last country of my heritage. The love for food, art, and living la dolce vita (the sweet life) runs deep in my family—it’s in my blood. As a food-motivated creative person, I have picked the right place.

Rome is one of the birthplaces of Western civilization. It’s the epicenter of great food, art, architecture, engineering, wine (if you drink alcohol), and romance. My background is in fine art, and many art history classes have drilled iconic buildings such as the Colosseum and Pantheon into our psyches. It has been a surreal experience to see all of these art history lessons come to life!

Main Attractions in Rome

These are several attractions that I’ve visited. I highly recommend:

  • Purchasing tickets online in advance to avoid waiting in line for hours
  • Bringing a water bottle to fill up. It gets warmer this time of year, and there are fountains throughout the city
  • Wearing comfortable clothes and shoes, because you’ll be walking a lot
  • Visiting some attractions early if you want to avoid crowds

Colosseum

Step inside history.

The iconic Colosseum is the largest and oldest amphitheater in the world. It was mainly used as a battleground for gladiator matches, where the opponents fight to the death. Being inside one of the greatest buildings felt like I was in a history book.

After my visit to the Colosseum, I visited the expansive ancient ruins of Palatine Hill, the legendary site where the city was founded. You’ll find the remnants of temples, Roman imperial palaces, and baths. It really felt like going back 3,000 years.

Vatican City

Vatican City is technically its own country with its own passport, post office, and even football team that’s separate from Italy. But you don’t need a passport to go in. The country is a religious site and is ruled by the Pope of the Catholic Church.

You should set aside a full day to visit the Vatican. The Vatican Museums alone cover about eight miles. That’s a lot of ground to cover! It’s possible to see the important stuff in a day, but you might need two days if you really want to take everything in.

The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel

For me, the most important thing at the Vatican was seeing the grand frescos of the Sistine Chapel. Michelangelo, one of the greatest Renaissance artists, painted the Biblical story. One of the most famous pieces is the “Creation of Adam,” a fresco that we’ve seen time and time again in those art history classes. Now I got to see it with my own eyes!

Fresco is an unforgiving material to work with. It involves painting with pigmented plaster, and the artist must work quickly before it dries and becomes part of the wall. So, seeing an entire vaulted chapel’s ceiling painted with Biblical imagery astounded me, leaving me in wonder of how humanity is capable of creating such masterpieces that stand the test of time.

Afterwards, I went inside St. Peter’s Basilica. St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest church in the world and is one of the greatest works of Renaissance architecture by Michelangelo. It’s considered one of the holiest Catholic places. It also holds the tomb of St. Peter, who is the head of Jesus’s 12 disciples and the first Pope. Even though I’m a non-believer, I was in awe of the interior. It took 150 years and an incalculable cost to build a church so magnificent.

Trevi Fountain

The baroque 18th-century Trevi Fountain is one of the famous fountains in the world. The dramatic stone sculptures interplay with the flowing water. The Roman aqueducts carry water to the fountain to this day. The Trevi Fountain is very well maintained. Because it’s so popular, I recommend going early to beat the rush. Don’t forget to toss a coin into the fountain, and remember: if it’s not baroque, then don’t fix it. 😉

Pantheon

The Pantheon is nearby. You can visit the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps in one go, since they’re close to each other. I was randomly walking through the cobblestone streets, turned a corner, and there it was!

The Pantheon was originally a Roman temple, before it was converted to a Catholic Church in the year 609 A.D. The columned portico has deeply influenced Western architecture, as seen in universities, banks, public libraries, and government buildings. I am in love with this magnificent building.

The inside is under an unreinforced concrete dome with the open oculus at the center: an open hole that lets in natural light. The interior is designed so that it could fit a perfect sphere—which is engineering at its finest. It blows me away that all of this was constructed without modern technology.

Spanish Steps

The 135 Spanish Steps starts at the Piazza di Spagna at the base and goes up to the Trinità dei Monti church at the top. In the Spring, they are covered with potted azaleas.

Just like the Trevi Fountain, if you want to have it almost to yourself, visit around 7:30 a.m.

Things to do in Rome

As always, great vegan food, art, and cats always call to me. Here are some noteworthy places.

Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary

Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary is an outdoor cat sanctuary among the ancient Roman Torre Argentina ruins—where Julius Caesar is thought to be assassinated.

All of the cats in this sanctuary have been abandoned. While many of these cats are missing eyes, ears, and limbs, they are well-fed and taken care of. All of the cats have been sterilized and vaccinated, and most of them can be adopted. The cats roam freely among the ruins, living their best lives. They chase birds, nap peacefully inside flower pots, and purr happily from pets and attention.

It’s free to visit, although consider making a donation so that Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary can continue to do good work to help these cats.

Romeow Cat Bistrot

I had the most exquisite meal at Romeow Cat Bistro, a vegan restaurant where you can dine with cats. Several cats live in this establishment, and they roam around while guests eat. This is a place where you really slow down and immerse yourself in the present.

Inside, the artwork by Sara Paglia graces the trendy interior. Cat beds are in corners, and some cats amble from one part of the dining room to the next.

A proper Italian meal is much more relaxed and lengthy than an American meal. Lunch is often considered the most important meal of the day, and it usually lasts for an hour or two. Italians often have a very light breakfast, so they come hungry for lunch time–and for good reason. Because this multi-course meal will fill you up.

The starter

The starter was a savory ball that reminded me of a cornbread ball, or a hushpuppy. The yellow cream reminded me of a vegan Hollandaise sauce.

First course: spaghetti with pear compote

The first course was spaghetti in a macadamia nut cream sauce with wild pepper. I rolled several noodles around my fork and ate slowly, the noting the texture and flavor of the spaghetti. It had a hint of garlic, an important ingredient in Italian cuisine. The wild pear compote had a hint of bergamot orange powder. To me, the pear compote tamed the garlic aftertaste, balancing out the savory flavors of the pasta.

Main course: marinara jackfruit with sweet potatoes and seaweed

The main course was an Italian-Japanese fusion: a bed of marinara jackfruit wrapped in a nori strip, with seaweed on top, surrounded by four breaded sweet potato slices and pesto sauce. The delicate savory flavor of this course married into the stringy texture of the hearty jackfruit in the tomato marinara.

During the main course, this white cat jumped onto my table! I felt honored, since mine was the only one where a cat blessed me with their presence like that. The server gently shooed him off, but I would have let him stay.

Dessert, the final course, was a matcha parfait with a raspberry sauce, an almond sablé (cookie), and a pistachio tuile (wafer), and garnished with fresh raspberries. I loved the brilliant green parfait contrasting with the red raspberries. The soft parfait was the consistency of gelato, but less cold and more dense. The creaminess offered a contrast to the crunchy tuile and sablé.

I loved everything: the food, the cats, the interior, all of it! Life is too short to not slow down every once in a while and soak up what you enjoy the most.

You must make a reservation for lunch and dinner to eat at Romeow Cat Bistrot. They are closed during certain hours of the day as well, so make sure to review the hours before contacting them.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

A print by Camille Rose Garcia

Dorothy Circus Gallery is a beacon of pop surrealism art in Rome, a visionary and magical experience in an inviting room with red velvet walls, the color symbolizing life and birth. Pop surrealism is a genre of contemporary art. The otherworldly details provoke curiosity and a shared sense of wonder through dreamlike imagery. Artists include Camille Rose Garcia, Camilla D’Errico, and Hikari Shimoda.

Dorothy Circus Gallery also has another location in London, which I have visited.

Ciao, Rome!

Rome has been such a charming city, offering plenty of places to nerd out and immerse myself in history. This is a city that I would love to revisit in the future. The architecture, ruins, food, art, cats, and everything in between stem from passion from the artists, architects, chefs, and engineers who create them, whether in ancient times or modern day.

I’ve been loving Italy so far. The way Italians speak, with their rhythmic vocalizations, sounds like poetry–even if they are talking about mundane things. The more relaxed attitude towards having meals is winning me over. Also, Rome loves their cats. My next stop is in Venice, and I’m so excited to explore the area. It looks different from Rome, and I’ll report my findings. Ciao!

Eurotrip 2022: Vancouver, Canada

Why, hello there.

Two years ago, I had planned to embark on a six-week Eurotrip, visiting Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, UK, and then finally ending the trip with the Vancouver Marathon. Then the pandemic stopped the world, as countries closed their borders in an effort to contain the virus. The travel bans happened two days before I was supposed to depart.

Most of our lives were in limbo the last two years. I wasn’t sure if I would ever be able to make the trip up. Sometimes good things come to those who wait.

It helped to wait an extra month after my work contract ended, too. In the past month, more COVID-19 travel restrictions have lifted for most of the countries I’m visiting. As of today, negative Covid tests for vaccinated travelers are no longer needed for Canada, UK, Italy, France, and Spain. I will need to have a negative test for Portugal, and another for coming back to the U.S. Travelers still need to bring proof of vaccination, too.

Mix and match all black everything

As always, I prefer to pack on the lighter side. The less things I take with me, the easier it is to travel. All I need are:

  • Several tops and bottoms, plus a dress, to mix and match stylish goth outfits
  • My computer and charging cables
  • Vegan travel-sized toiletries
  • Four pairs of shoes: walking shoes, flats, running shoes, and flip flops.
  • A fast-drying microfiber towel
  • Journal and art supplies
  • A stuffed animal that’s a replica of my BFF Brad’s cat, Bug. He’s my travel buddy.
  • Running tops and bottoms
  • A swimsuit
  • An electrical outlet adapter
  • Vegan toiletries
  • Passport and wallet
  • A Covid-19 test for coming back to the United States
  • KN-95 masks

My clothes, shoes, toiletries, and pandemic supplies can fit into my 50-liter purple Osprey backpack. All electronics, essential documents, and art supplies go into my smaller bag.

In my previous visits, I would whirl through the city like a spinning top. This time, I took my time and meandered through the Vancouver—it’s best to save energy for the marathon. There’s no need to cram everything in, especially when the city is close enough to Seattle. I can come back any time.

Vancouver is so great. It’s like Seattle’s Canadian cousin, offering ample places to run, cat cafes, and even more vegan options!

Vancouver Marathon

It’s technically my 11th full marathon, since I ran that one 50K.

I kicked off this solo adventure with my 12th marathon in Vancouver. Two years ago, I was registered to run the Vancouver Marathon at the end of the Eurotrip. Then it turned virtual, in an effort to keep everyone safe. This time, I moved the race to the beginning of the trip. It’s so much better to get it out of the way, rather than training for it in Europe.

The Vancouver Marathon is one of the prettiest courses I’ve ever run. Of course, chances are that anywhere you run in the Pacific Northwest, it will be beautiful. This marathon was under verdant, flowering tree canopies, and along the harbor and beaches. It went around Stanley Park before finishing among the shiny glass buildings in downtown Vancouver.

Vegan food in Vancouver

As a marathon runner, I’m always on the hunt for vegan food. Thankfully, getting enough calories while maintaining a cruelty-free diet is easy to do in Vancouver.

Here are a few of my favorite places.

The Kind Cafe & Eatery

The Kind Cafe is a hip vegan eatery with a great name: you can live kindly by choosing a vegan lifestyle where no animals are harmed. One that’s best for the environment and your health. That’s what being vegan is about: living and eating your values while making a world a better place.

This place emanates life with ample natural light, many plants, and loft seating.

Eat to align with your values.

I had the energizing tempeh taco bowl. This protein-packed power bowl had black beans, seasoned tempeh, pickled red onions, shredded purple cabbage, julienned cucumbers, and cauliflower—plus it was drizzled with a special sauce. The tangy pickled veggies perfectly complimented the full-bodied dressing. The cabbage and cauliflower delivered a nice crunch in every bite. This is exactly what I needed.

MeeT at Gastown

Korean-style poutine hits the spot perfectly

If you’re worried about missing all of your favorite food by going vegan, MeeT has you covered. This trendy spot has veganized all of your favorite dishes, ranging from burgers to Canada’s national dish, poutine.

I visited MeeT for dinner after the marathon. After every marathon, you should always treat yourself, whether you did well or so-so. Their menu has an entire poutine section, so I tried the vegan Korean-style poutine: French fries smothered with savory veggie gravy and melty cheese, plus topped with kimchi, nori strips, and sliced green onions. It had the perfect salt, fat, carb, and protein ratio that sated my tired body.

Bonus Bakery

Bonus Bakery is a modern, snug bakery that serves soft gourmet vegan cookies and pastries. The white, silver, and yellow interior—with their yellow star logo—was quite charming, as were their array of delectable vegan baked goods.

It’s best to go to Bonus right as they open. They seem to sell out fast, and for good reason. I got birthday cake and cinnamon roll cookies, plus a croissant that was still warm.

Catfé

Catfé is an adorable cat cafe that I’ll always stop by whenever there’s a chance. This cafe features about 10 sweet adoptable cats, an adorable gift shop, a mini cat art gallery, and a cafe offering coffee drinks and snacks.

This kitty was my favorite that day

I made friends with this black kitty. She was my favorite! Black cats are so underrated. Did you know that they are the least adopted? Maybe it’s because people are superstitious and think that black cats bring bad luck. Maybe people just don’t like the color black. Black cats are just as worthy of love as the others. This little one loved playing with the feather wand.

Of course, the other cats were friendly, too. I also have a soft spot in my heart for tabbies, as seen above.

I highly recommend making a reservation well in advance before visiting, since there’s a good chance the capacity for visitors will be full. As of today, it costs $18 CAD for an hour visit. The drinks and snacks are a little extra.

I enjoyed my time in Vancouver, and couldn’t think of a better way to kick off this Eurotrip with another marathon! I’m currently en route to Rome via a 22-hour layover in London. There will be more art, cats, vegan food, and more. I’m so excited to report my findings soon!

Bellingham Vegan Field Trip

Ronnie stands in front of a pink mural with red hearts that reads, "We Love B'Ham."
Greetings from Bellingham!

Nestled within the evergreen forest, this quirky, colorful city called Bellingham offers a friendly respite and enough vegan options for a tasty field trip. It’s a two-hour drive north of Seattle, so it makes a great day trip for a couple of vegans looking for a delicious adventure. So, my friend Daren and I ventured to this town that we heard so much about.

Downtown Bellingham has many quirky murals.
This staggered mural that says "Never Odd or Even" spans many concrete pillars.

Most cities have a personality based on what it has to offer and the livelihood of its residents. At first glance, this town emanates the vibes of a hippie at heart: you’ll find crystal shops and yoga studios throughout the downtown area, as well as vibrant art and organic cafes offering nourishing vegan food.

A lush garden growing inside a repurposed dumpster.
This is much better than a dumpster fire.

Downtown Bellingham is easy enough to get around. We wandered the city, the streets brought to life with colorful murals and hidden gems like this charming dumpster garden—as opposed to a dumpster fire.

Most importantly, we just had to try all of this food! As I mentioned in other blog posts (see Olympia and Portland), eating our way through a city is a great way to get to know it.

Wild Oat Bakery & Cafe

Here is my vegan fysh filet sandwich.
The vegan fysh filet sandwich is next to a side of salad.

Our first stop of our Bellingham vegan field trip was getting lunch at Wild Oat Bakery & Cafe. This snug establishment has vegan versions of everyone’s favorite comfort food dishes. And I never turn down comfort food.

I got the Fysh Fillet Sandwich—a different choice since I rarely ate seafood before switching to a vegetarian lifestyle. The rich, melty layers of these vegan filets were quite energizing. The tangy tarter sauce between the fillet sandwich layers was absolutely required; it brought out the flavors of the whole sandwich.

Daren had the classic BLT: a sandwich made with shredded lettuce sliced tomatoes, and crispy coconut bacon. The whole menu has familiar dishes that everyone can enjoy—without harming animals.

V Go’s Vegan Grocery Store

Standing outside V Go's storefront.
A stop at the vegan grocery store is a must for every vegan field trip.

Our next stop was the newly opened V Go’s vegan grocery store. This shop is owned by the same folks who run Sage Against The Machine food stand (more on this one later).

V Go's offers a variety of boxed vegan macaroni and cheese.

V Go’s does not mess around with the dairy-free mac & cheese offerings. There’s also a variety of plant-based meats and cheeses. The vegan food industry has come a long way, and seeing all of these options makes the vegan lifestyle even more attractive.

A painting depicting foxes dancing in space while a rabbit hides under a log.

There is plenty of eclectic art on the walls from local artists. The artwork ranges from sunset oil paintings, to wood-burned portraits and foxes in space.

I bought some coconut oil and soy curls, plus a sticker and an iridescent pin for my vest. (The Dr. Bronner’s Magic Chocolate came from a co-op, and I’ll include it here anyway.)

Intermission: “Window-Adopting” outside Neko Cafe

A cat from Neko Cafe looks out the window.

We saw that Neko Cafe, a cat cafe, has a location in Bellingham! But when we stopped in to see the kitties, the time slots were booked for the whole day. It’s highly recommended to make a reservation a few days in advance. We could still adore the lovely cats through the windows, though. Fortunately, there’s another location in Seattle, so we could always make time there too.

Afternoon Scones at Scone Grown

A scone basket consists of a vegan vanilla scone, sweet cream, and jam.

It was time for scones in the afternoon. Daren and I walked over to Scone Grown, a little vegan bakery that is best known for their scones. I ordered a chocolate chip scone, since there was one left—except it was out. The next best flavor was vanilla. The person behind the counter felt bad for not having the chocolate chip one, so they gave me tea on the house to make up for it! The cardboard tray consisted of a vegan vegan scone dusted with powdered sugar, plus paper cups filled with jam and dairy-free whipped cream. It was so perfect: the added earl grey tea with my vegan pastry felt like I was a Brit having afternoon tea.

Sage Against the Machine

The Spicy Mac has shredded carrots, tomatoes, pickled jalepenos, and macaroni noodles on top of a bed of greens.

Our last stop in our Bellingham vegan field trip was at Sage Against The Machine, the renowned food stand that every vegan in town talks about. This roving eatery has different locations throughout the week. That Sunday, it was at Kulshan Brewing Co.

Earlier, I mentioned that their V Go’s shop carries several brands of vegan mac and cheese. Sage Against The Machine has an entire section of their menu dedicated to many “Mac No Cheese” dishes. Those dishes have ingredients such as succulent barbecue jackfruit, garlic dill sauerkraut, Field Roast vegan sausage, and more. The choices looked so overwhelmingly tasty, that I spent a good 15 minutes deciding which one might be the best. Eventually I settled on the Spicy Mac.

The Spicy Mac was a kick to the senses. It’s topped with tomatoes, spiraled carrots, pickled jalapeños, almond parmesan, chili-lime rolled tortilla chips—and not one, but two hot sauces: buffalo, and locally fermented sauce from HOSA. I’m never one to shy away from spicy food, and this macaroni dish truly delivered. It has a bed of greens underneath, so it at least provides a healthy dose of veggies. Whoever said that vegan mac and cheese isn’t the same would be pleasantly surprised if they tried this one.

Daren got the Buffalo Caesar Chickpea Wrap: a warm pita bread topped with shredded romaine lettuce, buffalo-seasoned chickpeas, spiraled carrots, chopped celery, and mushroom “bacon.” The vegan bacon pieces were actually dehydrated mushroom slices. Daren let me try one. It was crispy around the edges and boasted a smoky flavor.

Coming back one day…

By that time, the day slowly gave way to evening. After satiating ourselves with vegan food, Daren and I decided to head back to Seattle before it got dark.

I blow a kiss to the mural that graces this alley.
Mural by @g2legit

Bellingham is a city that I’ve heard so much about over the past 10 years, and I’d like to get to know it better in the future. So far, the food in this vegan field trip has won us over. And there seems to be more than what meets the eye during our visit. While we found several wonderful places, this town hinted hidden gems that may reveal themselves the more familiar we become with it. It works like that sometimes.

For now, I’ve made a mental note to come back and see more someday. It’s more relaxed than Seattle, and the slower pace allows you to stop and notice the little things.

Olympia: the vegan-friendly State Capital

Olympia is a city with a small-town charm. It is Washington’s illustrative State Capital—and a vegan-friendly one. The first and only time I’ve ever been was when I was on my way back from the Oregon Coast a year ago. I didn’t have enough time to truly explore, so I made a mental note to come back. It’s like reading a good book that you have to return early: you bookmark it and hope that you can pick up where you left off.

I’m usually not the kind of person who flies by the seat of their pants. But a year after my stop-and-go visit, my friend Daren offered to take us to Olympia for a vegan field trip. It was a hands-down “yes.”

We ventured down to Olympia from Seattle in October, when the leaves are at their prime. I may be a bit biased when I say that autumn is the best time of year to go. But when crimson, vermilion, and golden leaves gently fall as you walk by bright storefronts, you might want to flock over there as well.

A vegan meal to fuel our Olympia adventure

Breakfast burrito with country gravy: all vegan, all delicious

We were hungry when we pulled into the city, so we looked for nourishment to fuel our day. Our first stop was Park Side Cafe, a casual vegan deli inside a grand Victorian home. This place even had a rooftop patio! We collected our food and walked up three flights of stairs to eat and enjoy the view. I enjoyed my breakfast burrito: tofu scramble, spinach, pico de gallo, and dairy-free cheese wrapped up in a flour tortilla, topped with country gravy.

A Victorian B&B next to Park Side Cafe

Downtown Olympia

After we ate, we parked in downtown Olympia and spent the day wandering by foot. Olympia is very pedestrian-friendly like Seattle. And it’s easy enough to orient yourself with the grid street plan. Not to mention taking in all of the street art as you walk by!

Anywhere you go in Olympia, you’ll find colorful murals gracing the exteriors. Some of them are more obvious, and others are hidden in secluded parking lots or in narrow alleys.

This town also brims with quirky, weird creativity anywhere you go. The amount of black-clad folks strolling past us—with their pink, blue, or green hair—made me, a purple-headed visitor, feel like I was right at home.

Favorite shops from the Olympia day trip

All of these items came from one of the shops below.

Olympia has a bunch of adorable establishments for all ages and genders. We meandered through modern apothecaries, gift shops, and cafes to see what might be found.

The Rolling Pin: A hidden gem on the second floor above Parkside Cafe, quirky kitchen shop The Rolling Pin sells culinary gadgets and tools so you can be your own chef. There’s an entire wall of cookbooks—many of which promote the vegan lifestyle. The aprons on the rack are locally made. I couldn’t resist the cupcake apron. Not only am I obsessed with how cupcakes look, but the theme is very appropriate for baking them.

Encore Chocolates and Teas: Encore is like an apothecary of sorts, displaying racks of high-quality teas and chocolate. Many of these teas—black, green, oolong, herbal, and more—have medicinal qualities. Some help fight inflammation, and others soothe a tummy ache. Some of the chocolates are vegan. I bought a bar of dark chocolate infused with anise and cinnamon, and topped with slices of dried figs. This is the kind of chocolate where you want to take your sweet time to make it last longer. Instead of chewing, respect the chocolate. Let it melt in your mouth and immerse yourself in that dopamine high. I might have been a little biased with the outer space background, but the spices warming as the chocolate melts in my mouth was just as satisfying.

Compass Rose: Compass Rose is an independent one-stop-shop offering locally made goods right from our very own Pacific Northwest. Modern, yet down-to-earth and friendly, this bright shop has something unique for many loved ones. You’ll a wide range of gifts, from local art and tasteful jewelry to kitchen and home goods. Some of them are classy; others have sardonic messages in good fun. Last year, when I was single, I bought a bottle of holographic vegan nail polish. This time, I bought a space cat sticker for my space goth partner.

Captain Little: Captain Little is an inviting toy shop for the little ones. The board games, science kits, and paint sets inspire the younger folks to get curious and excited about the world around them. As an adult, I still appreciated what this toy shop has to offer; the cupcake sticker called my name. As an aside, it’s owned by the same group as Compass Rose.

Archibald Sisters: This eclectic gift shop offers a plethora of kooky items, ranging from holographic patches and dream journals to body washes and perfumes. Their selection boasts 150 different fragrances. Being a scent-sitive person, I skipped the perfumes and meandered around the shop. Cat-themed mugs and feminist stickers painted a portrait of the modern cat lady. Racks of bawdy greeting cards gave me and Daren a good chuckle. I bought a glittering avocado pin for another friend.

Seize the day with vegan comfort food in Olympia

After poking through these shops, Daren and I were hungry again. So, we went to Wayside Vegan. Because of COVID-19, they are still take-out only. I ordered what looked like the most scrumptious item on the menu: the BBQ rib plate. It has a side of melt-y macaroni and cheese and a bed of mashed potatoes, on which a pool of brown gravy sits on top. The steamed collard greens added a healthy dose of veggies. Finally, the sticky, tangy, pull-apart barbecue seitan “ribs” were the center of this hearty meal.

It really was Vegan AF.

Daren and I took our meals to his car. He opened the hatchback, and we ate sitting in the back, watching the world go by in this quaint city.

Even meat eaters would love this.

I could have opted for the healthier dish that my friend had: a lighter sandwich with a side of fresh sprouts. Every time I explore a new city, I want to know the best dish from the best vegan restaurant. The must-have on the menu. So that I can report back to our friends: You must try this. Yes, being vegan generally means eating healthier without animal fats or cholesterol. We should all eat more veggies. But if it means that a dish like this can sway a meat eater to opt vegan for at least one meal, they should know about this one.

A painting from the Park Side cafe

The welcoming vegan vibe from Olympia keeps visitors coming back

The sun was slowly setting. After Daren and I finished our meals, we headed up north back to Seattle.

While Olympia is a small city, it’s brimming with a friendly charm. It’s slower than Seattle, and that’s because you feel relaxed enough to look it in the eye and take it in. If Seattle were a person, she’d be a sleek tech guru on the go with a latte. She’s friendly, but too busy to slow down at first glance. Olympia, on the other hand, would be a retired state worker who took up pottery and knitting as a grandma. She may live that omnivore life, and still wants to make sure that vegans have a place here too. Because maybe, eventually, vegans like myself will come back one day.

Marathon #10: the Virtual Boston Marathon

Eight months passed when I took a break from running. After the Summer Camp Run 50k and many marathons, I honored my body’s request for rest.

When I started back up in April to train for the virtual Boston Marathon, about 90 percent of my endurance had been lost. That meant starting from the beginning and rebuilding my endurance from the ground up. Because I’ve already done so many marathons, it didn’t take long for my body to quickly bounce back. It knew what to expect.

Still, training for my tenth marathon was quite a journey. It began just as I started my new dream job, finished moving to a new home, and established a stronger relationship with my new partner. The sudden life upgrades threw challenges, as I navigated the intricate workings of my senior-level job—on top of balancing training, rest, self-care, a writing class, and quality time with my partner.

About two-thirds through the training, I had two running assessments with MoveMend. (See Part 1 and Part 2.) Those assessments offered recommendations on adjusting my form to run better. Tanner also showed me a few hip strengthening exercises to stay strong when the going gets tough—and trust me when I say it always does during a marathon.

Ideally, I would have applied these recommendations at the beginning of training. Introducing them just weeks before the actual marathon still helped some. These exercises and adjustments can take a couple months for me to fully benefit from. But at least I have these tools to apply to the next race.

What I brought under the best conditions

For the race, I brought the usual: my hydration pack with energy gels, my wallet, and my phone. The Boston Marathon has an official race app to record the time and distance. I used it to do the virtual race, in addition to the Strava app.

The weather was perfect: 50 degrees and cloudy with just a hint of breeze. That’s the best weather to run in. The body warms up during exercise, so it doesn’t feel like 50 degrees when you get going. I could already feel that it was going to be a good day.

My virtual Boston Marathon path

Starting from Capitol Hill, I ran down the hill through the Central District. It felt like my feet had wings! I soared along the trail leading to the I-90 bridge. I ran across the bridge over Lake Washington and into Mercer Island. I continued east on the trail until I reached Bellevue. From Bellevue, I turned north, running up Downtown among the glittering buildings. I kept going strong and reached the SR 520 pedestrian bridge to get back to Seattle.

For the first 20 miles, I ran at a consistent pace. I was on track for a sub four-hour finishing time. But after the 20th mile at North Lake Union, my pace gradually slowed until my feet were shuffling. I forced myself to run faster, but my body wouldn’t keep the pace for long.

The 20th mile is usually where the challenges begin. The biggest long run before the race is 20 miles, so I’m wasn’t used to running past that distance—especially after taking eight months off. At that point, I had burned through my body’s energy reserves, including all of the Clif gels.

When this happens, it’s like tearing through another realm beyond. Pastel pink, blue, and green gradients shifted before my eyes, the heavenly hallucinations illuminating the overcast skies. The world fell away, and at the same time, I was at one with the world and the path before me, winding around the lake. Everything felt far away: pain was an abstract concept, the ground detached from my feet, and my consciousness was removed from whatever physical reality this was anymore.

The opiated dissociation during these last few miles is probably the closest feeling I can imagine what it’s like floating on a morphine cloud. It usually happens as you gather the last of your will to the finish. In an in-person race, it’s much easier because the energy of the crowds emanates the good ju-ju, or positive energy. The route is also cut out for you, which means no guesswork on where to go. But when you’re doing your own route with somewhat unfamiliar intersections, it takes a little more focus to stay on the right track. It took an even greater focus to tackle the last stretch before the finish.

Because I started from Capitol Hill, that meant that I had to end in Capitol Hill. Around Mile 25, there was a steep overpass that made me reexamine my life choices. But gosh darn it, the views were astounding: it overlooked Lake Union, the Space Needle, and the city that I get to call my home. It continued up a hill that may have been a mile long total. At that point, I had no understanding of the past or future. As far as I knew, that hill would go on forever.

By the time I reached Broadway, I ran a little further down until my Strava ticked 26.2 miles. But the Boston Marathon app only read 25.9. That’s how it is sometimes. At least I was on flat ground. I gathered what little remaining energy I had left and sprinted the last .3 miles down Pike Street.

I crossed the invisible finish line.

The sweet endorphins broke through the floodgates of my brain. I just ran my tenth marathon. And I finished at 04:54:25, my fastest virtual time yet!

Why it means a lot to me

Realizing that I’ve run ten marathons feels like a warm hug. As someone who has always struggled with depression and anxiety in an unsupportive environment growing up—all which made it harder to move forward in life—this achievement means a lot to me. When I was younger, my self-doubt and fear of failure were so severe that it felt safer to not try anything at all. You could imagine how that can impact anyone. My mental health regressed as pieces of myself disappeared. My first marathon in 2008 was a desperate attempt to build some resilience. It never occurred to me that I would one day have finished a double-digit quantity of marathons.

A journey like running a marathon coincides with the life lessons we go through. These don’t just go on a t-shirt. They’re hard-fought. The resilience snowballs in an upward spiral over the years, like unlocking new levels in a video game. Why not throw in some long-term traveling, a career change, sobriety, maybe a lovely partner to come home to?

…And before I know it, I’m here.

Treat yo’self…with Wayward Vegan

The Biscuit Mountain from Wayward Vegan

Of course, no marathon day is complete without a delicious reward. After running a distance like that, it’s so important to treat yourself. You deserve something nice. For me, that reward is the best vegan food I can find.

The Roosevelt light rail station recently opened, so I zipped to Wayward Vegan from Capitol Hill. There, the melt-in-your-mouth Biscuit Mountain was waiting for me to consume it in all of its salty glory. This dish features two fluffy herb biscuits on a bed of fresh spinach, topped with corn and vegan bacon crumbles—and smothered with decadent country gravy. A side of hash browns offers additional crispy deliciousness. This meal has the perfect salt-fat-carb-protein ratio that my tired body craved.

Taking my time

Today is the first time I hit the road since the marathon two weeks ago. I get to rest a little now. I’m sure there will be another race in the future. Maybe I’ll run the Boston Marathon in Boston one day. Maybe.

Running Assessment with MoveMend (Part 2 of 2)

Three weeks ago, I had the first part of a two-part running assessment with Dr. Tanner Melnick at MoveMend. As a refresher, it’s been 14 years since a professional has looked at my form and offered guidance on what needs adjustments for better running. There were many things I learned that day:

  • Circumduction (how much my feet swing out and cross over my body’s midline)
  • Cadence (the steps per minute)
  • Running quieter (I’m very stomp-y)
  • And more

The past three weeks, I applied Tanner’s recommendations to fix my running form. These small adjustments make a big impact, and keeping this form up has been harder than expected. With each stride, I did my best to run quieter while keeping my cadence to 175 steps per minute. Staying with the beat has been physically and mentally challenging. Deliberately aligning my body while running takes a kind of focus that will take some time to build.

I also found that I space out much more than I realize when running. When that happens, I don’t even notice it. My mind drifts into auto-pilot, and before I know it, I’m slogging up a hill with my old habits.

When I come back to earth, I nudge my footsteps back into place. My heart rate goes through the roof as I do my best to stay with the beat.

When I reported all of this back to Tanner, he said that other runners have similar experiences. Adjusting the form will take longer than three weeks. It could be a couple of months before these adjustments start to feel natural.

Capacity vs. load

The body has a certain capacity for stress, or load, that it can handle. In this case, my load is the increasing weekly mileage during marathon training.

Running is physically stressful, largely because of the feet’s initial contact with the ground. With every foot step, the impact force is 2 1/2 to five times the body weight upon landing. Multiply that by 26.2 miles, and that’s tons upon tons of force that the body is absorbing.

The way I increase my capacity is by gradually putting on more mileage every week, and then scaling it back every three weeks. Every week, I push my body just beyond its max capacity to adapt—especially with the long runs. It’s good to do that often enough to get stronger. But if I did that every day without giving my body a chance to catch up, that can lead to an injury for sure.

I follow the training plan and increase my capacity safely. All is well, unless I’m not eating or sleeping enough, or even if I’m stressed. (I even shared what helps me get more rest after noticing my performance had seen better days.) It makes perfect sense, because without enough rest, my body can’t increase its capacity for a bigger load, or more miles. If I’m not taking care of myself, then my body won’t adapt as well.

Posterior chain exercises

My quadriceps (front thigh muscles) have been doing most of the work when I run, so it would be helpful to strengthen my posterior chain, or the backside of my body: the glutes (the butt muscles), hamstrings (the back of the thigh), and calves. When the backside of my legs work together, that would give more power to push me forward as I run. This is especially important as I run up those steep Seattle hills; it means switching to a lower gear.

Doing these posterior chain exercises would help make my hips stable, so there’s less circumduction. It would be easier to keep a good running form for longer as well. Maybe that would make my slight hip flexor pain feel better.

Tanner introduced four different exercises to help strengthen my hips so that I can run stronger. He recommended doing each set until reaching fatigue, and then switching to the other side. As far as how often to do these, he said that at least once a week is enough.

Single-leg dead lifts

This exercise tested my balance. I focused on my breath and core, and slowly hinged forward at the hip on one leg with a 20-pound kettlebell. I stopped when I felt a good stretch in the hamstring. Then I slowly stood up to the starting point without putting my raised foot on the ground. I continued with more reps, dipping forward again like one of those toy drinking birds. My right leg is stronger, but I have better balance on my left leg. I kept doing the dead lifts on each side until my hamstrings burned.

Side plank hip abduction

With my elbow firmly planted on the ground below my shoulder, I slowly dipped my hips as closely to the ground as possible and then raised them back up. I could feel the burn on my lower back and glutes.

From my experience, I find it super helpful to strengthen the core. When started I running more marathons, my lower back would ache from holding myself up for many miles. A strong core gives more support for those long distances.

Single-leg heel raises

A wooden block or a stool could be used for single leg heel raises. It felt easy at first. It wasn’t long until my calves burned as I slowly pushed my weight onto the ball of my foot. After about 12 of these, I switched to the other leg.

Single-leg sit-to-stand

The single-leg sit-to-stand exercise was the hardest. I had to push myself to stand using just one leg without momentum. At first, I focused all of the energy in each of my quads, or front thighs, to push me up. I fell over a couple times. Then I remembered to shift the power source towards my glutes and hamstrings. Not only did using those muscles give me better balance, they also lifted me more effectively. This exercise was still so hard! It didn’t take many reps to be done with this one, so it must be very effective.

Applying what I learned at MoveMend to run better

Now that I have a better idea of how to run stronger, I can apply what I learned from MoveMend and hopefully get a faster time. I’m still mindful of keeping my footsteps quieter as I run to a higher cadence. Changing old habits is going to take some energy and patience. These new posterior chain exercises should make me more stable, so that I can use my energy to run stronger. Eventually all of this will become second nature. Maybe running will be even more enjoyable, since I know how to move better.

*Thank you, MoveMend, for sponsoring this post.

Disclaimer: This blog is not intended as medical or professional advice.  I’m sharing my experiences, and they should not be a substitute for physical therapy advice for anyone. Any exercise has potential to cause injury or pain if it’s done incorrectly. You should consult with a physical therapist or doctor for any medical advice.

Running Assessment with MoveMend (Part 1 of 2)

I have been running for 21 years. I do it for the enjoyment and benefits, because nothing beats the feeling of an endorphin high from a workout. Of course, there’s lots of science behind the sport. We’re looking at a wide range of many things working together, whether it’s nutrition or biomechanics–the science of movement of a living body. Even though I had been running for so long, I was due for a running assessment at MoveMend. This would measure my body’s movements and give proper interventions for better results.

My first running assessment from a long time ago

I had a formal running assessment for the first time at age 20. My old running coach owned a shoe store and—in helping me choose the best shoe for my chronic shin splints—measured my footstrike by having me run on the treadmill. (Footstrike is what part of the foot hits the ground when running.) He also made suggestions for my running form: Feet should generally hit the ground at midfoot for better shock absorption. Arms should swing back and forth, not across the chest, for more efficient movement. Keep the back straight, with a slight lean forward, for a stable posture. He noticed that my feet pronate a little too much. In other words, my feet’s arches rotate inward more than they should, which puts stress on my shins. He recommended the perfect shoe, the Brooks Ravenna, plus Spenco inserts for additional support. I never the had shin splints since.

Bodies change with the times

Fourteen years have passed, and my body has changed over time. I’m pretty sure my form needs work, since I haven’t had professional guidance to keep it in check all these years. So, I went to MoveMend, a physical therapy office along Eastlake in Seattle for a two-part running assessment.

I met with Dr. Tanner Melnick, who runs marathons himself. He did the first part of my assessment by first going over my running and injury history, and then observing my cadence, footstrike, and overall form. I told him about the slight pain in my right hip flexor, which is a muscle that runs through the hip and attaches on top of the thigh bone.

My running assessment at MoveMend

I learned a lot of new words about running.

First is cadence, which is the number of steps per minute. A good cadence is about 170 to 185 steps per minute. On the treadmill, I ran at a comfortable pace to see what my number is. It was 171, the lower end of the range. Tanner said that’s probably because I’m taller. My legs stride longer, so it takes less steps to cover a distance.

Next Tanner observed how much noise my footsteps make. As an aside, a few months ago, my neighbor asked me to kindly tread quietly as I go down the wooden stairs in the mornings, because the clomping of my boots would wake her up. I remedied that. But I didn’t realize that I’m also a stomp-y runner! My feet made so much noise upon striking the treadmill, you’d think it was a two-legged horse.

Tanner noticed that my feet do have mild pronation. He also said that my knees don’t angle outward from the midline, which is known as valgus. My body’s sway is minimal. But I do have a slight hip drop that is worse on the left side. It just means that one hip drops lower than the other with each stride. It may explain why my right hip flexor has been hurting some as marathon training increases.

My vertical displacement, or how much I bounce with each stride, is minimal. This is good because if there’s too much bounce, you lose energy by going up with each step instead of forward. My forward lean is good as well, which means slightly leaning forward for a stable running form. Both of my feet strike the ground on the heel, and then the rest of my feet follow, the toes propelling me forward. I used to hit the ground midfoot. Sometime over the years, my footstrike gradually went from landing on the middle of my feet to the heels.

Finally, Tanner mentioned that my feet cross over the midline with slight circumduction. In this case, circumduction is when the feet swing outward and back in with each stride, like a circle motion. My left foot would swing out a little and cross my body’s midline into the right side, and vice-versa. That kind of motion spins energy away from the body, instead of using it to go forward with a normal stride. You can imagine that’s an inefficient way to run. It might also be contributing to my hip flexor pain.

MoveMend’s interventions for my running form

First, Tanner increased the cadence to 176 steps per minute and had me run at that beat. By focusing on this new cadence, I was able to decease the amount of noise my steps made. There was less circumduction, or swinging my legs over my body’s midline. My feet struck the ground midfoot more.

Then he had me run with less noise. My feet still stomped on the treadmill, and he encouraged me to keep the steps quieter. When I focused on that, there was still a decrease in circumduction and hip drop. My foot strike shifted slightly to mid foot.

When it was time to run barefoot, that showed the most differences. My cadence went from 171 to 190. The noise change was significant; little noise was present. It was just the soft pads of my feet with socks hitting the treadmill. My strides were shorter as the front part of my feet hit the ground. I had minimal circumduction, probably because the shorter strides didn’t give my feet as much space to cross over the middle.

It took a lot of concentration to run with these interventions. What I noticed is that I need to run with better focus. That’s why my form has become a little sloppy over the years. When I run, my mind drifts off like I’m on auto-pilot. Ideas float though my head. Sometimes my mind is blank, and I cruise without really noticing how I’m carrying myself.

MoveMend’s recommendations for stronger running

After these interventions, Tanner gave a few recommendations to improve my running form. First, I need to do some strengthening exercises for my hips, hamstrings, and calves for less circumduction. I also need to increase single leg stability, the strength and balance of each leg.

To retrain my form, I’ll aim to do shorter runs with higher cadence, about 175-180 beats per minute. I’ve downloaded a metronome app on my phone to help with this.

Finally, I will think about how to balance my training better, considering the training load (the amount of miles per week) and my capacity (how much I can actually do). Tanner suggested that my training load should be spread out more evenly through the week. That could increase my capacity. I’m reaching peak training, so balancing the training plan is important if I want to stay strong.

It’s going to take some effort to retrain myself, but I’m so excited to know what needs work! I’ll apply these interventions and see what Tanner has to say during the second running assessment at MoveMend.

*Thank you, MoveMend, for sponsoring this post.

Disclaimer: This blog is not intended as medical or professional advice.  I’m sharing my experiences, and they should not be a substitute for physical therapy advice for anyone. Any exercise has potential to cause injury or pain if it’s done incorrectly. You should consult with a physical therapist or doctor for any medical advice.