Vietnam, Part 2: A Change of Pace in Hoi An

After departing the visceral energy of Saigon, my next destination was Hoi An. Hoi An is not to be confused with Hanoi; it’s a beautiful ancient town, pulsing with eloquence and charm.

Hoi An was an important trading port from the 15th through the 19th century, resulting in a fusion of Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, French, and Dutch influences. Those influences are reflected in the architecture of the buildings. Beautiful lanterns in an array of colors dazzle the streets. Little canals run through the town. Flowers and plants cascade from buildings, and the breeze is clean and soft. While Saigon spins with energy of such dizzying heights, Hoi An is a change of pace, offering a calm and harmonious ambience. 

I took a train to Danang, and then a bus to Hoi An. It was a challenge, as I was navigating among a language I don’t understand. When I’m not sure what’s going on, my anxiety rises even though somewhere deep down I knew things were going to work out. One thing I’ve learned in traveling so far is that, while it’s always important to be aware, sometimes it’s okay to put trust in people who take you around, especially with public transportation that the locals use. And 20 hours later, I arrived in lovely Hoi An.

Hoi An originally wasn’t in my itinerary. But after a few travelers told me about it, I did some research and was sold. The Southeast Asia part of my world tour is a rough plan. Usually my plans for everything are settled and decided, so this is different. There is so much to do and choose around here, that I mostly left it open. I also don’t know what to expect, but I’m starting to grasp the culture and how to go about this region. 

In the past, I always had a plan for everything and backup plans just in case anything fell through. The sense of controlling every outcome is how I would cope with life. It has always felt safer, knowing what to expect. The thing is that exerting that much control eventually becomes exhausting. So, things start to slip. And then when it feels like I’m losing control, feelings of helplessness and emptiness grow. I’m learning that flexibility isn’t a bad thing. Being flexible doesn’t mean being indecisive. It can offer some sense of control, as it gives many more options if something doesn’t work out. 

So, I left Saigon a day early and stayed in Hoi An a day longer than intended.

I rented a bicycle one day to get around town. I haven’t ridden a bike in over a year, and it was a little bit of a wobbly ride. Riding was fine until the evening, when I got into an accident by side swiping a motorcyclist, sending both of us crashing down the street. Then all of these motherly Vietnamese ladies came running over to us with their mysterious oils and ointments and patched us up. Although I was dazed from the impact, it was a very sweet gesture. Even though we don’t speak each other’s language, they gave first aid, just like that. 

The driver and I made sure the other was okay. He only had a scratch on his finger and that was it. We rode off.

It made me think how caring and being cared for is one of the things that makes us human.

The pain still spasms in my lower back and butt. It has been difficult to move, and every bump I feel on the road sends shocks of pain throughout my body. I’m very fortunate that nothing is broken. Things are just very sore now. The good news is that Tiger Balm is sold for a dollar here.

The following day after the accident, I thought it was a brilliant idea to test drive a motorbike, even though I have never operated one before. That’s how most people get around. I actually managed to drive it down the block and back just fine. While pulling back into the lot however, I accidentally cranked the accelerator and crashed into a wall at 5 m.p.h. The person who was renting the motorbikes out didn’t want to rent one to me, which was fair.

At least I tried it out. One of these days though! 

On the brighter side, I signed up for a cooking class at Minh Hien Vegetarian Restaurant and learned how to make vegan pho!

It’s a noodle soup swimming in vegetable broth and all the veggies you can handle. I’ve been eating it almost everyday that I’ve been in Vietnam. So, why not learn the secrets of making it?

A tour to My Son was purchased as well (pronounced “Mee Son”). The Unesco World Heritage Site consists of temple ruins, where Hinduism was worshipped from the 4th century to the 13th century. Today, the My Son temples are in poor shape after American bombs devastated the area. 20 structures survive, whereas there were once 68. 

I spent a day longer than intended in Hoi An. Part of the reason was to rest after the accident. But mostly, the allure of this lovely town was magnetic. If you’re an introvert like me, then this is definitely worth visiting.

I have since arrived in Hanoi after an 18 hour bus ride. For now, I am taking everything in. My stay in this country has been longer than intended, and there is still a lot to see. The soreness from the accident is still uncomfortable, but I’m slowly healing after getting some rest. I will write about my experiences on Northern Vietnam in a few days. 

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