As fall advances into winter and the trees lose the last of their leaves, I always pack a book or laptop and enjoy a hot black coffee in a cozy cafe in Portland. It’s one of the best ways to leave my perch in the tiny house, when I need a different environment to stretch those creative muscles or just get a change of scenery. As the days grow darker, spending time at a warm cafe is the best thing to do in these colder months.
Here are five cafes in Portland that I personally have tried out and enjoyed.
Case Study
Case Study has multiple locations throughout Portland. I went to the one in Nob Hill. Housed in a repurposed Victorian building, this snug coffee shop really does make me feel right at home. A decorative fireplace adds to the relaxed atmosphere, reminding you to slow down and stay for a while. A lovely green and blue peacock mural graces the main room, which looks out to the street. You can set up your laptop and watch the world go by. Case Study also offers a strawberry-frosted matcha scone, which pairs nicely with hot coffee.
After finishing coffee, you might stroll down NW 23 Ave, which is lined with indie and upscale retail stops.
Other Case Study locations have different vibes. I also went to the one on Alberta Street, which boasts an industrial-chic design with a loft for quiet studying or reading. The location in Downtown has a big living room vibe, which is great for hanging out with a friend or two.
Rose City Book Pub
Rose City Book Pub is practically the neighborhood’s living room. It’s a charming cafe operating as a used book store and community space, while serving beer, wine, and food. During the day, people bring their laptops to work or study; some might curl up in one of the nooks to read. By the evening, the cafe turns into a gathering space, offering live music, events, and art shows. I would say that this is the quintessential cozy cafe in Portland.
Shelves of books line the turquoise and red walls, as natural daylight pours through the large windows. During the rainy days, I sometimes would take my laptop and find the most secluded nook in the cafe. I felt like a cat, just chilling quietly and doing my thing.
There are plenty of non-alcoholic and some vegan options. I had the dry kombucha, which technically has negligible amounts of alcohol in it—but not nearly enough to intoxicate.
I stumbled upon Rose City Book Pub during a morning run. Their illustrative sandwich board showcased the week’s events. That’s when I discovered the local drink and draw group, Digital Dabblers. We gathered at a table with drinks and drew on our tablets and sketchbooks. Meanwhile, a cello player played soft classical tones. What was found by accident turned out to be a relaxing, magical night of creative flow.
The Tao of Tea
The Tao of Tea is a serene teahouse serving small vegan/vegetarian plates and tea drinks from around the world. Stepping inside the first time, I felt immersed in another world. Bamboo pole shelves hold rows of handmade earthenware teacups and pots, as rice paper lamps glow softly, filling the room with a warm ambiance. Relics from around the world—such as Buddha figures, wooden stringed instruments, and artwork—hang on the walls. This whole teahouse feels like a warm hug for the weary traveler.
I had the flavorful chickpea dal over basmati rice, which was absolutely delicious and filling. A samosa—a deep fried pastry filled with seasoned potatoes and green peas—added the perfect finish to the meal.
My friend Aimeé and I shared a pot of the Eight Treasures Tea, which consisted of Chinese dates, goji berries, longan, licorice, raisins, rose petals, chrysanthemum, and some green tea. The pot was clear, so we could see the blended contents. As the tea steeped longer, the dates released their sugars more, mildly sweetening the tea. I have never had anything like it!
Rather than a place to work or study, Tao of Tea would be a better place to have a friend or romantic date. It’s a spot where you catch up on life over tea and nourishing food.
Workers Tap & Cafe
Workers Tap & Cafe is a worker-owned coffee shop and beer bar inside a 1904 Victorian home. This is a place that takes a stand on human rights, including for immigrants, the BIPOC community, unions, Palestine, LGBTQ+, and more. It’s run democratically, and the workers split the profits.
Inside, a few quiet rooms offer ample seating to hang out or chill by yourself. It’s an ideal place to get some work done or curl up with a good book. A lending library offers books on history, leftist literature, and philosophy. You can check a book out with a bartender for free.
The cafe serves pastries, including a couple of vegan options. There’s also a Mexican food cart out back that has some vegan food. Workers Tap & Cafe also hosts community events and meeting spaces.
Rose City Coffee Company
Rose City Coffee Company is a spacious option if you’d like more breathing room. This open-plan coffee shop serves various coffee drinks, which can be made vegan. What caught my eye at first was the mini gift shop of toys, books, art, and trinkets made by local artists. As you wait in line, you might be tempted to get a gift for someone or yourself, while helping support local artists.
Sometimes there’s live music, which adds to the relaxed creative atmosphere. When I went, there were just a handful of people. The more open space was a change of pace, versus the more snug options that I usually enjoy.
Portland is a city where it’s good to be goth. From macabre cafes to heavy metal bars offering vegan junk food, this weird and wonderful city offers something for everyone—including goths and their people.
Fall may be the best time to visit Portland. The air cools down just enough to cozy up in your favorite sweater, as the leaves change to various shades of yellow, orange, and crimson. While Halloween may be over, here are five goth places to enjoy in this city.
Momento Mori Cafe
Embrace your inner darkness at this death-themed coffee shop, Momento Mori Cafe. Named as a reminder of the inevitability of death, this macabre cafe serves delectable vegan skull-shaped treats and ethereal caffeinated elixirs—so you can pick your poison while exploring the depths of these flavors and your existence. Relax while goth tunes croon from the speakers. These tastefully morbid themes are a sharp juxtaposition to its ethos of saving animal’s lives by being a 100% vegan cafe.
A Vampira latte and a pumpkin skull cake.
Normally, I drink black coffee. This time, I tried the Vampira, which is a red velvet latte artfully swirling with creamy oat milk. It paired nicely with this skull-shaped pumpkin cake.
Sometimes there are pop-ups, such as vendors selling vegan bat-shaped cookies, tarot card readings, or tattoos. Events such as paint-and-sips let you stretch those creative muscles and work your magic on a canvas painting.
Black Cat Frozen Custard
Black Cat Frozen Custard is a delightful coven-like parlor that serves frozen custard, which is a fancy ice cream mixed with egg yolks. Have no fear, because a vegan version is here! Topped with swirled whipped cream, rainbow sprinkles, and a bright red cherry on top, the vegan vanilla custard is served in a magical ambience. You’ll find rows of mysterious potions sitting next to skulls, dead flowers, and spell books—all of the arcane goods for a witch’s lair.
A wardrobe offers a portal to a secret speakeasy coffee shop, which requires a password to access it. If you do have it, the person behind the counter will give you a dagger, which serves as a key to the portal. According to visitors, it’s apparently rather cozy inside, so I’ll have to find the password somehow and visit!
To get your goth on for the night, look no further than the Coffin Club. This queer-positive space welcomes goths of all walks of life in an inclusive environment. The creatures of the night dress up in shiny, skin-tight black PVC pants and corsets, or black lace and torn fishnets for a more trad Goth look. Skulls glow under red, green, and purple lights as DJs spin favorite goth tunes, both old and new: The Sisters of Mercy, Vision Video, 3Teeth, Nine Inch Nails, and more. Dance on top of the Ouija board dance floor, possibly summoning a spirit or two, or rest (temporarily) in peace for a photo op in an actual coffin.
The bar offers handcrafted mocktails (and cocktails). The Coffin Club even offers a vegan food cart to refuel as you dance the night away.
When I went a couple weeks ago, there was a drag show on the stage. For those events, definitely bring small bills to tip the performers. They work hard, and they’ll appreciate you for it!
Black Water
These chili cheese fries are to die for.
For vegan junk food, the heavy metal bar Black Water might satiate your cravings. The menu offers classic American food such as burgers, fries, and decadent sandwiches stuffed with house-made seitan or fried seasoned tofu. I had the chili cheese fries, which were smothered in vegan chili and cashew cheeze. Since the portions are huge, it’s good to share with a friend!
You’ll find rows of pinball machines to help pass the time while you wait for your food. Live heavy metal bands play frequently through the week at night.
Before anyone says that this kind of vegan food is unhealthy, well, that’s how you know that being vegan really is for the animals here. You can enjoy all of your classic favorite dishes without taking a single life on your plate. As long as less animals are killed for food, then that’s a win!
Lone Fir Cemetery
For a spooky picnic or to enjoy the autumn foliage, Lone Fir Cemetery offers expansive grounds for you to choose from. Since the first burial in 1846, this cemetery has grown to become one of Portland’s oldest cemeteries with 25,000 people buried here.
It also started off with a solitary douglas fir tree (hence the name), which is still standing to this day. Since then, more trees have been introduced, and today there are over 700 trees representing 63 species.
When the weather is nice, you can dress up in your finest goth splendor, set up a picnic, and enjoy lunch among the 25,000 souls floating around here. Nobody will ever question it. And remember, momento mori. 😉
First, my mother passed away in April. I never mentioned her on here, because we always had a very complicated relationship. Despite our vast differences, one of the most important things she passed onto me is my Korean heritage, which sparked my curiosity about the world.
Omma and me.
Now that my mom is gone, something shifted inside me. I felt restless. Since her passing, the phrase “you only live once” has been ringing hard in my ears.
Leaving Seattle
After living in Seattle for 15 years, I decided to leave and embark on a slow road trip across the U.S.
Leaving Seattle for a while is bittersweet. This is, after all, my dream city. In 2010, I moved here to get a fresh start and heal, as my mental health was in shambles and I lived in survival mode. Most importantly, I wanted to be an artist in Seattle and be my real weird self in a city that celebrates it. And Seattle took me in like a lost kitten, just like that.
This city truly healed me. Now it’s time for a change.
I just made it to Portland last week to get my feet wet. I’ll stay for a few months in each city to get to know it more intimately. Portland is a good start, because I’ll need to come back to Seattle occasionally for stuff–like adjusting my braces that were supposed to have come off in February. Then I’m going to Nashville. Denver and Minneapolis are also on my list. Cities with a good art community and vegan food. In between, I’ll still travel internationally. I may take detours to stay with friends and family along the way.
Starting off with a Mini Cooper S
My dream car, the Mini Cooper S
In 2017, I sold my car before my trip around the world. After that, I didn’t get another one for 8 years. As someone who is conscious of mitigating the carbon footprint, I opted instead for public transportation, walking, and biking. Also, maintaining a car is so expensive, at least in Seattle. At first, I was going to get around the country with public transportation. But soon enough, having a car seemed practical.
Since my early 20s, I’ve always wanted a Mini Cooper. I mean, look at it—it’s overwhemingly cute. When a friend showed me an ad for a 2012 Mini Cooper S, I knew it was coming with me. It had all of this work done to it, and the price was a great deal. The dark color with the black rims is perfect. Zippy and compact, I can open the sun roof and roll down the windows to cruise through the city while feeling so cool. Lol.
In reality, it is a pretty neat car. The only thing is that the car has 2 doors, and the back space isn’t very big, even with the seats folded down. So, I had to be selective on what comes with me across the country. And honestly, that’s not a bad thing because it makes me appreciate what I do have.
Tiny House in Portland
Tiny home, warm vibes.
Last week, I moved into a 300 square-foot tiny house, where I’ll stay for the next 2 1/2 months! Nestled among the quirky art galleries and vegan restaurants in the Alberta Arts District, this adorable tiny house has a loft sleeping area, a well-stocked vegan pantry, and most of the comforts of home. It’s a few feet away from the main house.
My landlord gave the rundown of the tiny house. It’s more sustainability-focused, so we try to minimize waste. Dry goods can be purchased in bulk at the Alberta Co-Op with the reusable jars in the cupboard. We bring groceries home with reusable bags. And we try to bike, walk, or take the bus if we can help it, instead of driving. I like the way he thinks.
The comfy sleeping loft.
Since the house is small, I must be mindful of keeping it neat. The space can easily get cluttered. For instance, dishes pile up fast in the sink. The bathroom doesn’t have a sink, so I use the kitchen for brushing my teeth, washing my face, etc. There also isn’t much counter space, so I have to always keep that clear too. If things get cluttered up, it impacts my mental health as well.
Still, I’m impressed by how optimized the space is. With size limitations, you have to get creative with storing things. There are hooks, shelves, nooks, and crannies to store away belongings.
The whole property even has a garden with several fruit trees! Every summer in Seattle, I’d go urban foraging for plums and berries. This time, delicious pears, apples, figs, and grapes are readily available in the backyard. My landlord also gifted me the last of his frozen raspberries from the garden, plus some vegan protein powder. I’ve been making smoothies from all of that fruit. Picking the fruit straight from the source reminds us where food actually comes from.
Can I just stay here forever?
My First Week in Portland
I spent the first week settling in and getting to know the city a little bit. During the day, I work remotely. In the evenings, I explore.
First Friday Art Walk
On First Fridays of the month, there’s an art walk between the Laurelhurst and Hawthorne neighborhoods. It’s more like an art bike ride, since the galleries are more spread apart. You can join a group of bicyclists, and they ride from place to place throughout the evening.
Anna Magruder “Chloe” Oil on collaged canvas
Anna Magruder “Flower Power” Paper clay, acrylic, found beads & wooden bowl
I started at Sidestreet Arts, where they featured an art exhibition about cats! For thousands of years, cats have been beloved members of society. This art show honored the magnificent beings that they are. You’ll see cats of all mediums, whether they’re colorful realistic paintings, illuminated stained glass, or whimsical paper mâché figures made of pages from a book. The exhibition was rather small, though that’s what made it endearing. Cats love cozy spaces, so the setting was perfect anyway.
Mt. Tabor Park
On Saturday, I explored Mt. Tabor Park. Built on top of an extinct volcano, this popular park offers scenic walking trails, reservoirs, and an amphitheater. The visitor center was inside a small utilitarian room, manned by a jolly park employee who was eager to talk to anyone who wanted information. He gave me a super helpful map. I spent an hour and a half walking through the park. There were several events going on, like a wedding. In a picnic, a bunch of women were wearing red with colorful flower crowns, as if it were someone’s red faerie birthday party. After reaching the summit, I went back the opposite direction to see more of it.
Sunday Farmers Market
On Sunday, there’s the King Farmers Market in the neighborhood. This one runs from May until November. Since the season is slowly giving way to fall, there are lots of veggies like pumpkins and acorn squash.
I ordered a loaded açai bowl from Carioca Bowls topped with superfoods, like cacao nibs, pumpkin and hemp seeds, and berries. Then I bought the most colorful acorn squash there was, along with a pound of string beans. (Try roasting them in lemon juice and olive oil—they’re delicious!)
I am very pleased with myself.
I fit right into Portland, and I can’t wait to show more of what this city has to offer. I’m so grateful that I get to live here in my tiny home with my tiny car.
If you haven’t heard of Burning Man, it’s an eccentric art gathering in the Black Rock Desert in Nevada. Every summer, a team of artists, engineers, city planners, and workers build an ephemeral city of about 75,000 people that lasts over a week before it’s taken down again without a trace. It’s a celebration of freaks, weirdos, and creatives that provides a sense of belonging.
Bendy Bonnie knows how to radically express herself.
The spirit of Burning Man is held together by the 10 Principles, a set of commonly understood values reflected in the experience. Instead of using money, we offer gifts to each other and expect nothing in return. We radically express our creativity, unique gifts that come from the individual to make a collective whole. We actively break down barriers within ourselves to make this collective whole through immediacy and participation in this wonderful, weird society.
There were a lot of animal-themed projects this year, like this dragonfly art car.
It has been eight years since I’ve been to the main Burning Man event. The last regional Burn I’ve attended was AfrikaBurn in 2017. It’s been so long, and returning to the dusty desert, known as the playa, was in order.
Animalia was the perfect opportunity to go, because this might be my last main Burning Man event for a while.
The Ephemeral Black Rock City
Burning Man sits on an alkaline lake bed in the Black Rock Desert. The city part of it is literally built like a grid-oriented city in the shape of a clock: from 2:00 to 10:00. You’ll find typical city amenities, such as:
A city center
A passport office (where you get a stamp from participating camps)
The Black Rock City public library
A working post office that delivers letters and postcards out to the default world!
The Man is the wooden effigy standing in the middle of the playa, where the hands of a clock would meet. This is how you can orient yourself when exploring the city or even the deep playa. The Temple rests in the 12 o’clock sector northeast from the Man. Anything beyond the Temple is considered the deep playa.
Year of the Rabbit for Animalia
It’s the Year of the Rabbit for the Lunar New Year, which is my year!
Sometimes people go by a Burner name, a persona away from the default world. I never had a Burner name before, but this year the name “Tokki” felt just right. Tokki means “rabbit” in Korean. My mother used to call me that, since I’m vegan and eat “rabbit food.” Since I also fall under the Year of the Rabbit, it was appropriate.
Global Camp at Burning Man
At Burning Man, usually I stay with a theme camp. You can camp by yourself or a small group of friends; I’ve done that before. A theme camp offers so much more. In addition to amenities like a communal dinner and a full kitchen, you can make many friends from all over the world from your very own camp. You do need to help with camp duties, such as building the camp or cleaning it as the week goes on. It’s a collective effort here.
Global Camp, run by my dear friend Shawn (Salami), is an international-themed camp for Burners all around the world. The camp itself was like a hostel where Burners came from all over: Argentina, China, Ukraine, Morocco, Uruguay, and more. As a half-Korean who loves to travel, I felt right at home.
Highlights of Burning Man 2023: Animalia
I had three goals for Burning Man 2023:
Quilting an epic space-goth dream coat and wearing it there;
Letting go of a beloved painting that was considered a masterpiece at the time I created it, and;
Running a 50k ultra marathon in the desert, which is 31 miles. Just for fun. Because I’m a little crazy sometimes.
The Temple
Set at the 12:00 sector of the playa, The Temple is a place where people leave behind mementos of loved ones who have passed, or even of chapters of their lives that have closed. You’ll see photos of the dearly departed, marriage licenses, elaborate memorials, and many keepsakes in their final resting place.
I left behind two things. One was photos of our beloved cat, Käse, who passed away just a week and a half before I left for the Burn. I left some of her fur that I brushed from her, and wrote how she has brightened our lives. Käse really was a special kitty–literally the best cat. She always made you feel like the most important person in the room. She and my partner have changed my life in ways I’ve never imagined. Thanks for showing us unconditional love, Käse. We’ll always remember your sandpaper kisses, reassuring head-butts, calming purrs, and warm cuddles.
“Consumed: Anorexia and the Endless Neurotic Storm” was a masterpiece I had created at age 23.
The other thing I left was my painting titled, “Consumed: Anorexia and the Endless Neurotic Storm.”
The summer before I moved to Seattle at age 23, I painted what was then considered the masterpiece of my art career. At the time, my mental state was deeply fractured, and my future seemed bleak–if there even was a future at all. I captured all of my pain and anxiety, and created a fluorescent storm of dizzy stars, poison cupcakes, colorful ceramic skulls, rainbow lightning bolts from black storm clouds, and steampunk gears. How my manic-depressive mind operated at the time.
Over the years, I have tried to sell “Consumed.” But upon hearing the backstory, buyers would decline. It carried too much pain for one painting. It was a message that maybe this work of art no longer has a place in this world.
Now it was time to let it go.
I left “Consumed” at the Temple to burn at the end of the event, with everything else that others have left behind–the ceremonial cleansing of our collective grief. In a way, it feels cathartic. I’m glad I got to say goodbye to this painting that I’ve held onto for so long. Twenty-three-year-old me would have never envisioned a future where the pain is no longer central in my life.
The Tea Hive
The Tea Hive was a small, Moroccan-inspired tea lounge that offered mint tea and art supplies to create whatever you want, as world trance music played. It was a serendipitous find. The host, Dot, was so gracious. The teepee-style tent was decorated with oriental rugs, lanterns, warm lights, and fake tropical plants, as we sat on cushions around short-legged wooden tables. The relaxed vibe allowed me to tap into my creativity a little as I drew in my sketchbook. Striking up conversations with tea and art was what I needed at the moment. It was pure magic.
Teahive was one of my favorites! The larger theme camps are attention-grabbing for sure, luring you in with neon signs and rainbow LED lights. While they’re fun, it’s also worth checking out the smaller camps that are right under your nose. You’ll never know what you’ll find, whether it’s a new friend or artistic inspiration that you crave.
The Black Rock Philharmonics Orchestra
At the Tower of Babel, a full orchestra called the Black Rock Philharmonics played popular classical pieces. Playing next to the dark, dream-like tower completed the setting, as we gathered around to watch. Pretty much the whole city came to see them, as this was a special treat that is different from the usual bass-thumping techno that blasts in the air. Engaging and dynamic, this ensemble played pieces from the classical Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture to the modern Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody. It was impressive watching the whole orchestra play as the dust storm picked up.
The Burning Man 50K Ultramarathon
Years ago in my twenties, I had heard of this marathon. I thought that these runners have got to be some of the craziest people to walk the face of the earth. Never in my wildest dreams had I imagined that I would be toeing the starting line with them one day.
Spoiler alert: I finished running every single one of those 50 kilometers. I will write an entire blog post about this unforgettable experience, because it deserves its own post.
The Art at Burning Man 2023
Burning Man is like a live creative museum where you can fully interact with the art. In an actual museum, you cannot touch anything. But here in Black Rock City, you are actively encouraged to touch and play with the art. You can climb on it and see sweeping views of the whole city and beyond.
Every year, it’s amazing how people come up with these art installations at Burning Man. From a flaming aluminum octopus to an LED-lit willow tree, a lot of these works of art are a feat of engineering as well. One of my favorite things to do at Burning Man is cruise around the playa on my bike and visit these works.
Work by Olivia Steele
I’ve been following Olivia Steele’s internationally renowned work for a while. She’s an artist best known for her life messages in neon signs. I’ve seen her work in South Africa and London. Every time I see her art, it’s like a mirror is reflecting parts of my shadow self back at me, the parts I need to keep working through to live up to my full potential. Her messages are real and raw, and even kind of confrontational, intriguing the viewer look within themselves in the moment.
Elder Mother
The Elder Mother was probably my favorite installation. Swaying on the open playa, a willow-like tree hypnotizes you with shifting rainbow cube lights from its many tendrils. Music lures you in, a shared language that brings us together. The piece is inspired by a Hans Christian Anderson fairy tale, where a boy dreams of an elder tree growing out of a teapot full of elderberry tea. On top of the elder tree, an elderly woman sits and talks to him, she whisks him off on an adventure of her own memories and experiences. Sitting under this tree, you’re immersed in light and sound, as if you’re part of the story. I wasn’t brave enough to climb the steel trunk, but I certainly enjoyed lying under the tree, watching the colors change and relaxing into the music.
Mariposa
Mariposa was an enormous aluminum butterfly, powered by people riding a swing below. 38,000 color-changing LED lights cover the butterfly as classic pop music plays through the four speakers disguised as flower pots. It’s just as mesmerizing as The Elder Mother. Random dance parties often gathered around Mariposa as “Bohemian Rhapsody” and many other classics lured visitors in. I didn’t ride the swing, but it was fun watching others power the butterfly’s flapping wings with this kinetic sculpture.
El Pulpo Magnífico
The beloved aluminum El Pulpo Magnifico is an upgrade from its former scrap metal version. It’s a terrifying four-faced octopus that shoots flames from its eight tentacles and the top of its head. The bulging eyes and sharp teeth on all four faces move along with the limbs. Depending on who you ask, it’s what nightmares are made of.
This impressive art car uses 200 gallons of propane every night. I sat under it once, and it got quite hot underneath! The entire sculpture is completely mechanical; there are no computers or hydraulics to make the parts move. Someone in my camp said he talked to one of the creators. Apparently, it took 12 hours a day to build El Pulpo for months. The crew also spends seven hours a day maintaining it as well. It truly is a labor of love.
1000 & 1
There are supposed to be two robots here: a metal robot and a wooden one. This only shows the metal robot wielding an ax, so half of the context is missing here. From other photos, the counterpart wooden robot was holding a metal wrench. They were facing and pointing at each other. At first glance, it was just a robot pointing towards the mountains, like it meant business. I was so sleep-deprived, that I don’t remember seeing the wooden robot, if it was even there. With that wooden version in mind, it makes me wonder if they’re intending to destroy each other with the weapons that would bring them down–or build each other up using those respective tools.
Pyramid Anam Cara
Anam Cara is a cultural blend of an Aztec pyramid and topped with a Celtic Tree of Life. Many cultures around the world offer their own wisdom and perspectives on our very existence. Through these crossing paths and shared connections, we arrive at a center point in this shared unity of the universe’s beauty and consciousness.
I walked up the steps to the top at night, surveying the whole city in the distance. I asked the guy next to me, “Isn’t this great?” He smiled and nodded enthusiastically.
#Vagr
You couldn’t miss this giant pink tiger that was sitting at the 2:00 sector of the playa. “Vagr” means “tiger” in Armenian. Tigers are struggling through climate change, poaching, and habitat loss. This art serves as an educational tool for conservation of these magnificent beasts.
Immediately Vagr reminded me of Käse. She was, after all, a descendant of the ferocious ancestors that were lions and tigers.
Fuck Yer Burn!
It rained in Black Rock City, which made things interesting, to say the least.
When the playa dust gets wet, it turns into mud like wet cement. It accumulates quickly onto shoes, so it feels like you’re carrying 10 extra pounds on each foot. You cannot bike or drive, because the mud will clog the bike gears and vehicles will get stuck. The gates closed; nobody was permitted to enter or leave in these conditions.
You can’t even tell where my boots end and the ground begins.
The rain was necessary, in part because it revealed to us our true colors.
The good people at “Hard As A Rock” camp took me in and made sure I was warm enough.
The media made it sound like we were helpless, like the debacle that was Fyre Festival. But two of the Burning Man principles are Radical Self-Reliance and Communal Effort. This meant pulling together our inner resources and making the most out of a shitty situation, while also banding together to support and look after each other. We Burners are resilient, taking care of ourselves while also sharing food, water, propane, and warm clothes with our neighbors.
For the first rainy night, I slept in my sopping-wet bedding in a puddle inside my yurt. It was 55 degrees outside. I wondered if I would catch pneumonia. But I took deep breaths, reminding myself that I get to be a part of this wonderful, weird community–where a lot of us are rough around the edges to begin with. All I could say was, “Right now it’s like this.”
Still, we told stories and jokes to distract ourselves. We slowed down and got to know each other. While we couldn’t really go far, we were still in good spirits. Our resident DJs continued playing techno sets while we looked out for each other.
All I could say was, ‘Right now it’s like this.’
As I trudged through the sticky mud carrying my bike, someone asked, “What’s one thing you’ll learn from this?” It’s a fair question when something like this puts Burning Man’s principles to the test. I’m looking forward to the hindsight on this one. We go to Burning Man to learn, and sometimes the lessons are hard.
I had to carry my bike for over a mile back to my camp.
“Fuck yer Burn!” another Burner shouted at me.
“Fuck your Burn!” I shouted back.
“Fuck everyone’s Burn!”
Usually this is a greeting or expression like “Merry Christmas.” It still applied, albeit in a rather colorful, humorous way. Our Burns were, in a way, fucked. “Fuck yer burn” means whatever you want it to, really. We throw it to each other in jest, because amid all of this “love and light,” someone has to slap some sharp humor into things.
Now there’s something you don’t see everyday.
At the end of it all, still we come out the other side. Eventually the rainy weekend will be a great story to tell. I didn’t stay for the Man burn, and that’s okay. The Man will always burn in the future. But this weekend will sear into my memory for years to come. If we want rainbows, we have to put up with the rain, as we confront our survival in these conditions. We’re all in this together.
If we want rainbows, we have to put up with the rain, as we confront our survival in these conditions.
Where to Go From Here
Burning Man 2023 really is for the books. Years from now, people will talk about this year’s burn. Mostly I see social media posts of gratitude, that people were able to go at all. Many welcomed the rain, because it showed us who we really are.
There will always be incredible stories coming from the playa. But after this Burn, I want to check out the smaller, regional ones. Since they’re smaller, they’re more intimate, the 10 Principles tightly woven in the fabric of the communities. They are worth visiting.
As of now, I have been slowly decompressing. It’s always a culture shock going back to the default world, after living a week in this beautiful social experiment. I’ve been feeling mildly depressed after coming back, which is common among Burners. It’s such a wonderful place to experience, and then it’s back to the usual grind. Still, I practice gratitude that I went and experienced what we were meant to.
But after every Burn, I always come back feeling inspired. I want to seize opportunities more. I want to strike up conversations with strangers (despite the ever-present Seattle freeze). The creativity there is contagious; it reminded me to keep this dream and identity alive. Burning Man always gives you life-changing lessons and inspiration to apply back in the default world, and I think that’s one of the greatest gifts of all.
The Redwood Forests have been on my bucket list for a long time, and sometimes forests call for an adventure as part of a self-care plan. I left Astoria on my way down the Oregon Coast, taking my sweet time down U.S. Highway 101, before landing at the Redwood National Forest.
Meandering down the Oregon Coast
The Oregon Coast
Route 101 is a scenic highway that winds down the Oregon Coast, stringing charming coastal towns along the way. Blue waves crash against the rocky cliffs as you drive down the forested hills. It really is something.
Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach, OR
I made a stop at the popular Haystack Rock on Cannon Beach, which isn’t far from Astoria. I arrived during the low tide, which revealed many tide pools with sea creatures. It’s not everyday that most of us get to marvel at starfish and clusters of sea anemones.
Driving down the Coast was an all-day adventure. I made it to the Redwood National and State Parks before it got dark. After setting up camp the first night, I spent two full days there. I camped in the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park: two nights in Elk Prairie, and the third night was at Gold Bluffs Beach.
Holy Sequoia!
A real tree-hugger.
One look at the Redwoods, and you’ll see why a million people flock over here every year. These grand Sequoias are over 3,000 years old and tower around 300 feet. While these are mighty trees, you feel so safe and held inside that luxurious forest. There’s really nothing quite like nestling under the gentle evergreen giants.
Day 1: Redwood National Park
For the first full day after setting up camp, I went on some shorter hikes (3 miles or less) within Redwood National Park, which borders the Prairie Creek Redwoods.
First I went to Redwood Creek Trail. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a trail running along Redwood Creek. There are two creek crossings, and most days out of the year the creek is shallow enough to ford. (It gets too dangerous to cross in the winter, when the rains come.) The first crossing was a mile and a half in, which was a good turn-around point. If you want to go further, the entire trail is 8 miles one way.
I’m barely touching the edges of the tree.
Next, I went onto Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail, one of the most popular hikes. It’s a short loop around old-growth Redwoods. The smell of the wildfires hit strongly on this path, and the smoke cast an eerie orange glow. It was still very scenic, and I almost wanted to curl up inside a hollowed Sequoia.
Trillium Falls
Then, I drove over to Trillium Falls Trail, which is a loop featuring a small waterfall. I had the whole trail to myself and did not see a single soul.
Finally, I drove back to the Elk Prairie campsite, which provides access trails. I could squeeze in one more short hike before stoking up the campfire.
Day 2: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and Gold Bluffs Beach
In the morning, it was time to pack up and set out for the Gold Bluffs Beach campsite.
Steven Spielberg filmed a Jurassic Park movie here in Fern Canyon.
I felt bright-eyed and bushy-tailed.
Look at the beauty of Fern Canyon!
For the second full day, I stayed within Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. First, I paid Fern Canyon a little visit. Fern Canyon is set in a stony creek and truly lives up to its name: it’s a 50-foot high gorge boasting flourishing verdant ferns and moisture-loving mosses. It’s no wonder why Steven Spielberg picked this spot to film Jurassic Park 2: The Lost World.
After the saunter around Fern Canyon, I drove back to the campsite and pulled out the paper map. This day was a good one for a big 12-mile hike among these gentle giant Sequoias.
Let nature cradle your curious spirit.
Starting from the campsite, and across the dirt road by a creek, is the Miner’s Ridge trail entrance. This trail zigzags up a ridge before leading to another trail that ends at the previous Elk Prairie campground.
Look up at the god-like trees.
I could read the map easily, which was always a challenge before. Usually I have a tendency to get lost, but this time there was no fear or anxiety. There was a profound inner peace resting within, as this child-like curiosity returned. I felt so safe and held inside the forest. I could feel the gentle pulse of the grand Redwood forest, so very much alive.
Doing yoga moves on an old Redwood stump.
When you’re in such immense surrounds, every worry and fear that you have melts away as you become one with the forest. Everything inside your world seems insignificant, as you’re part of a much larger one around you. Your consciousness expands in wonder with the forest.
Just let me appreciate this for a little while longer.
Choose your path.
After reaching the Elk Prairie campground, I turned around and continued the loop onto the James Irvine Trail. I can’t say which one is better; they’re apples and oranges. The James Irvine Trail ends at Fern Canyon, where I visited earlier in the day.
The fog had rolled in as it got darker, with visibility being less than a few hundred feet. While it was only a couple of miles to the campsite from Fern Canyon, the fog was so dense that it was hard to see where I was actually going. I continued walking south until the first tents emerged.
After dropping my backpack off my tired body, I started a campfire and savored some vegetable soup and picked berries after a long all-day hike. Food tastes so much better after exploring a vast lush escape. I slowly ate, exhausted and happy, before getting ready to retire for the night.
The Redwoods beckon again
A Sequoia that commands respect.
I’ve been back for a few days, and already the forest is calling me again. This is definitely something I want to explore more of. While I did traverse a good chunk, there’s definitely more to be seen and felt! The Sequoias command respect from anyone who is privileged to be graced with their presence. No wonder the Redwood Forest rests in the spirits of so many people. Once you see what it’s all about, it’s unforgettable.
Sometimes self-care means going on a week-long road trip, where you answer the call of the sea and the forests. I’ve heard so many wonderful about the Oregon Coast. After feeling antsy and stagnant from staying in Seattle all year, it was time to mosey on down to Astoria, before making it to the Redwood National and State Parks.
But first… vegan treats in PDX!
The All-Or-Nothing seasonal donut from Doe Donuts is filled with cookie butter, and topped with chocolate glaze and raw cookie dough.
I had to dip into Portland first and get some treats on my way to Astoria. I was going to meet a friend and would hate to have come empty-handed. Of course, I had to try Doe Donut’s new seasonal flavors, including their ultra-decadent All-Or-Nothing donut.
Gluten-free and vegan cookie from Harlow.
Astoria: a hidden gem along Oregon’s coast
I should move into this house in particular. 😉
Astoria is a quaint seaside town in Oregon. I’m the kind of traveler who tends to cram everything in one visit, but the calm energy of this sleepy town offers a leisurely change of pace. Many places had limited hours due to Covid, and some have closed for the season. I only had a day and a half to spend here. My friends, Lesli and Larry, graciously let me stay in their gorgeous home here. It was in a great hillside location within walking distance of everything.
Old friends
Check out Dianne’s artwork by Kit’s Apothecary for this month!
My friend, Dianne, was my sister’s old friend back in the day. Dianne and I still kept in touch. We’re both artists and have always supported each other’s work. She was hanging up her stuff at Kit’s Apothecary, and that’s where we met up. I gave her the donuts and cookies, and we walked around, catching up for a little bit. She gave some pointers on what’s good around town, I’m so happy to have tried so many of them!
Serendipity when you’re not even looking
I didn’t have many set plans in Astoria. It seemed more appropriate to wander around the charming down and encounter pleasant surprises along the way. A thick fog blanketed the whole town, casting a spooky aura, just perfect for Halloween.
In the morning, I climbed up the steep hill all the way to the Astoria Column. There’s supposedly a view overlooking the entire town and the sea on clear days. After I had reached the landmark, I found a 1.5-mile hiking trail and made my way back down.
For lunch, a yam and black bean burrito from Blue Scorcher hit the spot. That gave plenty of energy to wander around. While there weren’t any strictly vegan restaurants in town, many places did have at least one vegan option.
A goth traveler’s delight
The whimsical, colorful shops around town offered travel keepsakes, beautiful fancy papers, and handcrafted memorabilia that would make any goth traveler light up. My favorite shops in town are Cargo (imported treasures from around the world), Luminari Arts (unique, quirky local art and jewelry), and Godfather’s Books.
The interior of the Underground.
Kit’s Apothecary isn’t your grandma’s apothecary.
Then there are hidden shops in Astoria’s Underground building, such as Kit’s Apothecary (an apothecary selling CBD hemp products and goods with ubiquitous swear words), Weird Sisters Freak Boutique (offering creative and kooky clothes), and The Secret Gallery.
Mary Alayne Thomas • “The Secret Lives of Foxes” • Watercolor and encaustic
There’s also a growing art scene in Astoria. Brumfield Gallery, showing dark, floral, and surreal artwork, was my favorite.
Get to know the town’s history
The Flavel House Museum
A visit to Astoria isn’t complete without visiting the museums. The Flavel House Museum is a grand late-Victorian home of Captain George Flavel, a prominent bar pilot and businessman, and his family. The Heritage Museum, set in the early 1900s City Hall building, features local history exhibits. Housed in the former county jail, the Oregon Film Museum displays exhibits of films made in the area, notably The Goonies. If you choose to purchase tickets to all three, there’s a discount pass available.
Be sure to check the opening hours, because some have limited seasonal hours. For instance, the Museum of Whimsy closed its doors for the season.
Beautiful architecture throughout the town
‘Til next time, Astoria!
I really enjoyed my time here. It’s a great town to slow down in, so that you can appreciate what’s around you. I only had a day and a half here, and sometimes I wish there was more time. Astoria is only a few hours’ drive from Seattle, so another trip in the future will hopefully happen.
From Saturday morning to Sunday evening, I took a whirlwind trip to Seattle’s quirky sister city, Portland. There’s a lot you can do in a 40-hour visit. Sometimes you just need to get lost and find your way back.
I came down via the Bolt Bus. I was mostly exploring the city on my own. Since I was without a car, I went around using the Trimet bus system. As of today, for $2.50 you can purchase a bus ticket that’s valid for 2 ½ hours. For $5, a day bus pass has more value; it lasts all day and has unlimited uses.
The Lloyd District/East Portland
Where to stay
The mid century modern restaurant in KEX Hotel
If you don’t mind sharing sleeping space, hostels are a great place to stay if you’re on a budget. While I do enjoy staying at AirBnBs, there are a lot of hidden fees in the final price. With hostels, the prices are much more straightforward. Plus, I only use it to sleep, shower, and keep my belongings. This time I stayed at KEX Hotel in the Lloyd District. The location was within walking distance of Downtown, numerous hip bars and clubs, and that one vegan strip mall that I always visit.
The Vegan Strip Mall
I didn’t buy shoes this time.
I always make a stop at the vegan strip mall in the Lloyd District, which includes Sweetpea Baking Company, Herbivore Clothing Company, Food Fight! Grocery, and Scapegoat Tattoo. Herbivore Clothing is an adorable vegan lifestyle shop. That store has ethically-made clothes, soaps, accessories, books, and shoes. Everything is fair-trade and higher quality, so the prices might be higher to reflect that. I didn’t buy any vegan shoes this time, but I did pick up some soap, a pin, and another patch for my vest.
In case the message doesn’t come across clear enough.
The Lovecraft Bar
On Saturday night, I made a visit to the Lovecraft Bar, a horror-themed bar that draws an eclectic crowd. I don’t drink alcohol, but at least I can still have fun and dance the night away.
All the vegan food that you can handle
That Breakfast Curry Bowl hit the spot.
First thing was first–I was starving for brunch on Saturday morning. A friend and I met at Blossoming Lotus in the Lloyd District, where I had the flavorful Breakfast Curry Bowl.
It’s no secret that vegan pastries are my kryptonite. As a marathon runner, I rationalize that I can eat as many donuts as I desire–so as long as I dutifully follow the training schedule. I’ve been wanting to try vegan donuts from Doe Donuts for years, and made it a point to go over there and get some. They have their usual flavors, and then there are the seasonal ones.
Good to the last bite at Off The Griddle
On Sunday morning, the other brunch place that I was eager to visit was Off The Griddle, which is an adorable 1950’s-themed vegetarian diner. I had the “Awesome Plate,” which is scrambled tofu, tempeh bacon, and half a pumpkin waffle.
A cupcake so adorable, I almost didn’t want to eat it. CHOMP.
Later in the day, I visited Back to Eden Bakery, which serves vegan and gluten-free desserts and pastries. Some of these cupcakes were so beautiful, I almost didn’t want to eat them.
I love cupcakes!
For my last meal, I made a quick stop to Vtopia, a restaurant that specializes in all-vegan cheese. It’s a compact space that seats maybe up to 15 people. I wasn’t going to have enough time to sit down and eat, so I ordered a mac & cheese sandwich to go. When I have more time, I’d like to come back.
I run marathons; this is totally justified. 😉
The quirky and evocative art of Portlandia
Mural by Adam Brock Ciresi
Portland seems to have more colorful murals and vegan food than Seattle does; it’s a wonder why I haven’t moved here instead. I took many walks and a 14-mile long run in this city, and found these purely by accident.
Places to visit
The Portland Art Museum also has an expansive collection of classic and contemporary art. It was my first time there. Currently, they have exhibitions on Mount St. Helens (before and after the 1980 eruption), and the controversial yet intriguing work of Robert Colescott.
My favorite piece at Fernie Brae
On Hawthorne, I visited Fernie Brae, a cozy fantasy-themed art gallery. It’s such a magical space.
Redd Walitzki “Strange Aeons” at Antler
Antler and Talon Galleries, which are connected to each other, offer nature-themed pop surrealist artwork.
The murals you’ll find throughout Portland are serendipitous. It’s a surprise on many corners and alleyways. Here are some of my favorites from this weekend. Some of these I’m unsure on who the artist is, so if you know, feel free to leave a comment.
It’s worth slowing down once in a while because you might find stuff like this.
And finally, will you look at this mini art installation! This teeny, tiny diorama was spotted in an alley. It’s the little things like that that give Portland its special charm.
The Psychology section
I made a stop in Powell’s Books. One thing that makes me a little sad is that there will never be enough time in this life to read all of the books on the ever-growing reading list. I picked up a book about Complex Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder, which I’m doing a great job recovering from.
Until next time, Portland
I returned to Seattle on Sunday before midnight, a little winded, but very happy.
Last Wednesday, my best friend, Brad, and I went to the happiest place on earth that is known as Disneyland. It was my first time there. He also introduced me to his sweet parents and their cat, as well as his nieces. (I’ve already met his older twin sisters before.) I’ve been waiting for this for so long, and we finally made it happen.
My BBF Brad
It wasn’t just about going to Disneyland; it was about meeting his family as well. I playfully ribbed Brad about bringing on the adoption paperwork.
Brad is like a brother to me. Our friendship confuses people, since we used to date. While it didn’t work out, what we had turned into something better. Now we are practically siblings.
Even introverts want to belong
The desire to belong is a universal human need. When I grew up in a traumatic environment, I had to learn to be independent as a survival mechanism. There was a sense that I didn’t need to belong to anyone in order to survive, which stemmed from some mistrust of others. Keeping others at an arm’s length felt like a safer option, at least on the surface. On the other side of the coin, there was a growing sense of emptiness from the same belief of not belonging to others. I don’t have much of a base family, which left me feeling untethered and disconnected in the past. But after meeting his family, I felt grounded in a way that has never existed before.
Laugh until you can’t breathe
We went on most of the rides, and it has been so long since I laughed so hard, the kind of laughing that moves you to your core until you can’t breathe. It’s like my inner child got to come out. As adults, we often forget to tend to that part of ourselves.
Howdy!
Dole Whip tastes like pineapple sorbet.
I even tried Dole Whip for the first time! It’s a favorite among vegans in Disneyland, and lately it has had a cult-like following. It was so good, that we had it twice.
From Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge
There were times where the crowds made me hide in my own head like a turtle. Brad noticed and had a way of getting me back to earth. Being around crowds can be tough, and I’m still slowly working on that.
We can choose our family, too
While this was a two-day whirlwind trip, it has still impacted me in such a positive way. I’ve met Brad’s family, and it was such a lifting experience. I feel more grounded and connected with a sense of community. What was missing before was found in California, and now I get to keep it with me.
Santa Fe, NM is the first trip of 2019, where I got to see a dear friend and her family for the first time in seven years. It’s an artistic city, where artists like Georgia O’Keefe once lived. Native American influence is also prevalent. I went during the off-season, where it wasn’t crowded at all.
Snow in the high desert
There is something about snow that amplifies an eerie yet comforting silence.
Also known as the City Different, the small Southwestern city sits in the high desert at an elevation of 7,199 feet. For a sea-leveler like me, it can be a lot to adjust to. Altitude sickness varies for each person. It’s better to take at least a day or so to acclimate to the higher elevation than jump right into working out like I did.
The very first morning after landing in Santa Fe, I attempted to run 10 miles, which was an experience. I was so out of breath at mile 7. Pressure slowly built up in my head before turning into a full-blown headache. I slept the entire day afterwards.
Navajo influences are ubiquitous, as seen on this rug.
When thinking of the desert, images could be cacti, cow skulls, and adobe homes under the bright sun. Snow doesn’t always come to mind. It’s the first time I saw snow in the desert, and it was quite a beautiful setting.
It is also extremely dry, so it’s a good idea to pack lots of shea butter and sunscreen. The UV rays are stronger in higher elevation. I kept rubbing shea butter on my hands every half hour to keep them moisturized. You may also need tissues, since the dryness can make your nose drip. A humidifier also helps when sleeping.
Santa Fe is a small city, and while public transportation exists, it doesn’t cover the whole area. The main lines run mostly near the attractions around the city, but there isn’t service from the regional airport. Ride sharing services such as Lyft and Uber are rare late at night or in the wee hours in the morning, which can be an issue if your flight comes in during those times. Renting a car would have been too expensive. I was lucky and found a Lyft to get me to my friend’s house at midnight.
A treasure trove of art and history
For $30, the Culture Pass provides access to multiple publicly funded museums and monuments in Santa Fe as well as several other cities in New Mexico. I highly recommend using it, as you can save money that way. There is also a free shuttle that goes from Museum Hill to the Plaza and even Canyon Road, so that’s also worth looking into as well.
Santa Fe has a vibrant art community. Modern art legends such as Georgia O’Keeffe lived in the town, the landscape often used as a source of inspiration. There’s a museum featuring her work, and it’s worth a visit. It isn’t covered by the Culture Pass, since it’s a private museum, but it still helps give a better understanding of her work and process.
Another day, I visited Canyon Road, a half-mile stretch of high-end art galleries inside old-world adobe buildings. Canyon Road features inspiring artwork ranging in style from traditional, to whimsical and contemporary. There are over a hundred galleries, boutiques, and eateries to brows through. A magical place like this makes it clear why many artists have made it their home.
There is another side to it all. I talked to one of the artists, and he said that he only paints what he does so that anyone with that kind of money can buy his work. He would like to paint what he likes, but it wouldn’t sell. While it’s always nice to be able to express yourself, it’s not a bad thing to make work that sells, even if it’s not what the artist prefers to do. It is, after all, a business.
Speaking of art, tomorrow I will go over what my experiences at Meow Wolf were like. It’s an art installation that is reminiscent of the Twilight Zone meets Alice in Wonderland, kind of. It’s trippy, delightful, and full of mystery. It deserves its own entry.
The vegan lifestyle isn’t unheard of in the City Different, but not everyone is aware of what it is. There aren’t many exclusively vegan restaurants in Santa Fe, but there may be vegan options at a few places. Other than that, it’s easier to buy ingredients and prepare stuff at home. My friend graciously cooked dinner for us, since her husband is mostly vegan. She was a lifesaver.
Could I live here?
I visited Santa Fe to see and catch up with my friend… and also to see just how Ronnie-friendly is this city? The vibe is friendly enough. While I appreciated the art, the vibe caters towards people on the more upscale end. In fact, the only place where I truly felt like I belonged was at Meow Wolf, which will be a separate blog entry.
Santa Fe’s public transportation system doesn’t cover the whole city, but the bike trails might get you places as long as it’s not too icy. Finally, being vegan is possible, but options may be limited when it comes to finding a restaurant to eat.
Other than that, I very much enjoyed my stay. This is a city where I’d like to return again!